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    2022年, 第52卷, 第3期 刊出日期:2022-03-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    Alg@TiO2微球稳定的Pickering乳液用做防晒乳成分的研究
    Study on the Pickering emulsion stabilized by Alg@TiO2 microspheres for sunscreen formulation
    谢鑫,王伟浩,刘环宇,孙梦梦,李沁园,贾露凡,孟涛
    2022 (3):  229-236.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.001
    摘要 ( 400 )   HTML ( 114 )   PDF(1475KB) ( 332 )  

    为了开发一种兼具防晒功能和乳液稳定性的防晒乳配方,设计了一种负载二氧化钛纳米颗粒的海藻酸钙微球(Alg@TiO2微球)来稳定Pickering乳液,用作防晒乳成分。考察了油水比和微球含量对Pickering乳液的影响,探究了乳液类型,并进行了长期保存稳定性测试。结果表明,Alg@TiO2微球形状为球形,大小为2~6 μm;Alg@TiO2微球中二氧化钛纳米颗粒含量为43%;微球与油水的三相接触角为120°;当油水比为1∶1,微球含量为3%(w/%)时,稳定的白油/水体系Pickering乳液为油包水型(W/O型),经100 d室温保存后乳液状态保持稳定。通过紫外吸收实验,和包括市售防晒乳在内的其他3种防晒乳相比,该Pickering乳液具有优异的防晒性能。通过皮肤表面清洗实验,该Pickering乳液具有易清洗的特性。

    Sunscreen products can reduce the damage caused by UV rays, reducing tanning, inflammation and skin cancer. However, chemical sunscreen is more toxic, and the existing physical sunscreen is not stable and has poor sunscreening effect. Therefore, the development of a sunscreen formula with sunscreen function and emulsion stability has attracted extensive attention. In this work, a Pickering emulsion stabilized with calcium alginate microspheres loaded with titanium dioxide nanoparticles (Alg@TiO2 microspheres) was designed to be used as a sunscreen component. By emulsification-gel method, the Pickering emulsion stabilized by hydrophobic TiO2 nanoparticles was used as a template, and the internal aqueous phase was gelled. The TiO2 nanoparticles were fixed on the surface of calcium alginate microspheres. The prepared microspheres were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, elemental analysis, thermogravimetric analysis and wettability. The effects of oil/water ratio and microsphere content on Pickering emulsion were investigated, and the type of emulsion was explored, and the long-term storage stability was tested. The results of SEM and elemental analysis showed that the Alg@TiO2 microspheres were spherical in shape and contained TiO2 nanoparticles on the surface, and the size of Alg@TiO2 microspheres was approximately 2-6 μm. TGA results showed that the content of TiO2 nanoparticles in Alg@TiO2 microspheres was 43%. Wettability test showed that the three-phase contact angle between the microspheres and oil and water was 120°. When the oil/water ratio was 1∶1 and the mass fraction of microspheres was 3%, stable Pickering emulsion was formed with the largest emulsion volume fraction and the smallest droplet diameter. The emulsion type was water-in-oil type (W/O type). The emulsion remained stable after 100 days at room temperature, facilitating the shelf life of the emulsion cosmetics. In UV absorption tests, the Pickering emulsion showed superior sunscreen performance compared with the other three types of sunscreens, including a commercially available sunscreen. This Pickering emulsion has been demonstrated to be easy to be cleaned as shown in skin surface cleaning experiments. The Pickering emulsion with high stability and excellent sunscreen performance as a sunscreen component is expected to promote the application of Pickering emulsions in daily chemical industry and promote the research and development of new cosmetics.

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    科技讲座
    天然生物质材料的制备、性质与应用(Ⅲ)——医护两用的糖胺聚糖:透明质酸
    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅲ)Glycosaminoglycan for medical and skin care applications: hyaluronic acid
    石晶,冯云,包杰,樊建茹,徐桂云,范金石
    2022 (3):  237-244.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.002
    摘要 ( 407 )   HTML ( 36 )   PDF(1367KB) ( 438 )  

    透明质酸是一种广泛存在于生物体内的糖胺聚糖,具有保湿、抗菌消炎、抗氧化、抗衰老、润滑关节、调节渗透压等多种生理功能。天然无毒、生物相容性优异、可生物降解的透明质酸具有独特的螺旋柱分子构型,且分子结构中含有可进行分子修饰并赋予其更多更强功能性质的羟基、酰胺基、糖苷键等活性位点,作为一类重要生物活性物质,透明质酸及其衍生物、复合物、掺混物在医疗、化妆品、食品等领域已得到广泛应用。本文阐述了透明质酸的名称、结构和来源,以及理化性质、生理功能、制备方法和近期的应用进展情况,并指出了透明质酸的发展前景和研究方向。

    Hyaluronic acid is a kind of high molecular weight glycosaminoglycan which naturally exists in a variety of living bodies. Hyaluronic acid possesses vital physiological functions, such as moisturizing, antibiosis and antiphlogosis, anti-oxidation, anti-aging, lubricating arthrosis, and regulating osmotic pressure. As a type of natural non-toxic, excellent biocompatible and degradable bioactive substance, hyaluronic acid has a unique spiral column molecular configuration, and it has many active sites (hydroxyl group, amide group and glycosidic bond) in its molecular chain, which could be modified to offer more and better functions. Up to now, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, composites and blends have been widely used in medical treatment, cosmetics, food and other fields. In this review, the name, structure and source of hyaluronic acid, as well as its physicochemical properties, physiological functions, preparation methods and recent application progress were introduced. The development prospect and research trend of hyaluronic acid were also pointed out.

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    开发与应用
    裂缝性低渗油藏复合体系协同驱油适应性研究
    Adaptability study on a compound system for cooperative oil displacement in fractured low-permeability reservoir
    岳文成,范鹏,王凯,赵辉,刘安,杨红
    2022 (3):  245-252.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.003
    摘要 ( 177 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF(1389KB) ( 202 )  

    针对低渗油藏注水开发过程中对储层微裂缝简单调驱后,注入水易沿高渗条带发生绕流造成开发效果严重受限的问题,评价了泡沫体系起泡、稳泡性能和一种改性淀粉凝胶成胶性能,开展了泡沫微观调驱和裂缝性低渗岩心复合体系协同驱油实验,并利用径向流模型模拟油藏实际井网对复合体系协同驱油适应性进行了验证。实验结果表明:起泡剂和稳泡剂最佳质量分数分别为0.5%和0.1%,改性淀粉凝胶体系成胶后具有较高强度和突破压力;注入泡沫体系后水驱,小孔隙微观驱油效果较前期水驱提高14.21%,其在渗透率级差约为30时具有更好的调剖性能;裂缝性低渗油藏水驱过程中,采用改性淀粉凝胶联合泡沫协同驱油效果最佳,其较注入单一改性淀粉凝胶或泡沫体系后水驱采收率可分别提高22.17%和46.07%,且径向流模型验证实验表明该协同驱油方法在裂缝性低渗油藏的适应性较好。

    In the low-permeability reservoir, injection water is easy to flow along the high-permeability strips after simply profile control on the micro-fractures, which induces severe problems in the reservoir development. In this work, the foaming and stabilizing performance of a foam system and the gelling properties of a modified starch gel were evaluated. Then, the microadjustment and flooding of the foam and the collaborative oil displacement experiment of this compound system with fractured low-permeability core were carried out. The adaptability of collaborative oil displacement was verified with radial flow model, and the actual reservoir pattern was simulated. The experimental results show that the optimal mass concentrations of foaming agent and foam stabilizer are 0.5% and 0.1%, respectively. The strength and breakthrough pressure of starch gel system is high. After foam injection, the micro oil displacement efficiency of small pores during further water flooding is 14.21% higher than that of previous water flooding. And when the permeability ratio is approximately 30, its profile control performance is better. In the process of water flooding in fractured low-permeability reservoir, the collaborative oil displacement efficiency of modified starch gel combined with foam is best, which can increase the recovery by 22.17% and 46.07% as respectively compared with that of single use of modified starch gel or foam system. Moreover, the radial flow model validation experiment shows that the adaptability of this method is good in fractured low-permeability reservoir.

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    高悬浮能力清洁剂的制备与性能研究
    Study on preparation and performances of high suspension ability detergent
    张云,李琛,于思涵,刘冬
    2022 (3):  253-257.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.004
    摘要 ( 254 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF(1036KB) ( 228 )  

    为了制备出具有高悬浮能力、低黏度、高透明度和低成膜性的清洁剂,采用丙烯酸乙酯和甲基丙烯酸两种单体来制备聚合物作为清洁剂(实验组A)中的悬浮剂,考察了不同单体比例对悬浮剂悬浮能力的影响。与两种常用的丙烯酸类悬浮剂即Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 Polymer(对照组B)和Carbopol® Aqua SF-2CN Polymer(对照组C)进行对比实验,比较3种悬浮剂在体系中的黏度和浊度、悬浮能力、成膜性和剪切变稀能力的区别。结果表明:在相同实验条件下,实验组A的黏度最小,涂抹时的延展性最好;当悬浮剂质量分数≥1.8%时,3种悬浮剂都具有较好的透明度和悬浮能力;实验组A的成膜性最差,不容易堵塞泵头;实验组A的喷雾挤压力度和喷雾均匀度这两个性能均优于对照组B和对照组C。总体来看,实验组A的性能最优。

    In order to prepare detergents with high suspension ability, low viscosity, high transparency and low film-forming ability, two monomers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid were used to prepare the polymer as the suspending agent in detergent (experimental group A). The influence of different monomer ratios on the suspension ability of the suspension agent was investigated. The viscosity and turbidity, suspension ability, film-forming ability and shear thinning ability in detergent of the experimental group A was compared with two commonly used acrylic suspension agents, namely Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 Polymer (control group B) and Carbopol® Aqua SF-2CN Polymer (control group C). The results show that the ductility in application of the experimental group A is the best due to the smallest viscosity in the same experimental conditions. When the mass fraction of the suspending agent is ≥1.8%, all three suspending agents have good transparency and suspending ability. The film forming ability of the experimental group A is the worst, therefore it is not easy to block the pump head. The spray extrusion strength and spray uniformity of the experimental group A are better than those of the control group B and the control group C. Overall, the performances of the experimental group A are the best.

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    脂肪酸甲酯乙氧基化物过滤工艺研究
    Study on purification and filtration process of fatty acid methyl ester ethoxylate
    董振鹏,田威
    2022 (3):  258-262.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.005
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    研究了钙系催化剂制备的脂肪酸甲酯乙氧基化物(FMEE)的过滤工艺,测定了FMEE凝胶相区和不同温度时的黏度,考察了吸附剂种类、吸附剂用量、助滤剂种类、助滤剂用量、滤纸目数对过滤效果的影响。结果表明:FMEE在20 ℃、质量分数为50%±5%时存在凝胶相区;随温度升高,质量分数为80%的FMEE黏度降低;吸附剂柠檬酸用量为溶液质量的0.1%时,吸附效果较优;助滤剂硅藻土用量为溶液质量的0.2%时,过滤效果最优;滤纸目数为500时,过滤时间及一次过滤收率均衡最优。在优化工艺条件下,可以得到钙离子含量低于10 mg/kg的澄清透明溶液。

    In this paper, the filtration process of FMEE prepared by calcium catalyst was studied. The viscosity of FMEE at different temperatures and gelation phase region of FMEE were measured, and the effects of sorbent type, dosage of adsorbent, types of filter aids, amount of filter aid and number of filter paper on the filtration effect were investigated. The optimal process was confirmed by filtration time, pH after filtration, particle size distribution and calcium ion content. The results show that FMEE has gel phase, which is serious with the mass fraction of 50%±5% at 20 ℃. When the mass fraction is 80%, the viscosity of FMEE decreases with the temperature increase, and the inflection point is at 70 ℃. When the adsorbent is citric acid and the mass fraction in the solution is 0.1%, the adsorption effect is better. When diatomite is used as the filter aid and the mass fraction in the solution is 0.2%, the filtration effect is the best. When the mesh number of filter paper is 500, the primary filtration yield reaches the maximum. Under the optimized process conditions, a clear and transparent solution with calcium ion content less than 10 mg/kg can be obtained, and the turbidity of filtrate can be less than 1 NTU.

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    H2O2/Se改性钒催化剂制备及催化氧化SO2性能研究
    Study on the performance of vanadium catalyst for the oxidation of SO2 by modification of H2O2/Se
    赵成忠,胡非非,范鑫,党威,林倩,曹建新,潘红艳
    2022 (3):  263-269.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.006
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    提出了一种H2O2/Se改性钒催化剂制备的新方法。采用XRF、XRD、SEM、MIP和TG/DSC对催化剂进行表征分析,测定了催化剂催化氧化SO2转化率,并与国产钒催化剂CHP-75和进口VK-38对比分析。结果表明,H2O2/Se改性钒催化剂V@10% H2O2-Se/SiO2具有清晰的表面孔道、较大的孔容、较小的活性组分晶体尺寸和较低熔融相变温度,使其具有较高的催化氧化SO2活性。该催化剂催化活性高于国产CHP-75,与进口VK-38媲美。高效钒催化剂的设计为国产钒催化剂替代国外进口催化剂提供了一种可能。

    A new preparation method of H2O2/Se modified vanadium based catalysts was proposed in this paper. The catalysts were characterized by XRF, XRD, SEM, MIP and TG/DSC, and tested for catalytic oxidation of SO2 to SO3. And its activity was compared with that of the commercial catalysts CHP-75 and VK-38.Results show that the catalysts V-Se/SiO2 and V@x H2O2-Se/SiO2 have clear surface pores and small grain size of active components, which provide more active sites for SO2 oxidation. Meanwhile, it also has lower melting transition temperature and more forms of molten state, which is conducive to improving their low temperature activity. Among them, the catalysts V@10% H2O2-Se/SiO2 has the highest activity for SO2 oxidation due to its optimal pore structure, pore volume, active component nanoparticle size and melting transition temperature. And the catalytic activity of this catalyst is rival to the activity of VK-38 and much high than that of CHP-75. It offers a new thought and method for the design of the high efficiency vanadium catalyst.

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    硅藻土基清洁剂的制备及应用
    Preparation and application of diatomite-based cleaner
    赵中华,张健,盛雪茹,李娜,平清伟
    2022 (3):  270-277.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.007
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    通过在传统清洁产品中引入硅藻土,优化表面活性剂、辅料种类和配比,制备了新型硅藻土基清洁剂,主要应用在织物和玻璃瓶方面,并探究清洁效果、互染性、标签和霉斑去除率等性能。硅藻土基织物清洁剂较优配方为硅藻土用量5%,AEO-9 15%,6501 5%,AEO-7 5%,硅酸钠0.3%、棕榈酸2%、柠檬酸钠3%;玻璃瓶清洁剂的较优配方为硅藻土用量5%,AEO-9 15%,6501 5%,AEO-7 5%,硅酸钠3.6%,硫酸钠1.5%,葡萄糖酸钠1.8%,氢氧化钠7.5%。所制备的清洁剂对炭黑、蛋白和皮脂污布的清洁白度差较优于市售普通清洁产品。在织物清洁方面,产品可实现被清洁织物的零互染;在玻璃清洁方面,温度在70 ℃时脱标率为100%;清洁剂用量为2%时,霉斑去除率达100%。硅藻土能用于配制不同清洁剂。

    With the process of global economic integration and the development of people’s high-quality life, high-efficiency, energy-saving and multi-functional washing products are attracting more and more attention. Diatomite is a kind of biogenic siliceous sedimentary rock, mainly composed of the remains of ancient diatoms. It is loose, light, porous, water-absorbent, and strong in permeability, as well as has large specific surface area and chemically stable properties. In addition, the porous properties of diatomaceous earth can achieve functions such as humidity adjustment, dye adsorption and heavy metal ion removal. The paper introduced diatomite into traditional cleaning products, and through optimizing the types and proportions of surfactants and auxiliary materials, a new type of diatomaceous earth-based cleaning agent was prepared. Its cleaning effect and prevention of mutual dyeing, label and mildew removal and other multi-functional performance were explored. It shows that the auxiliary materials of diatomite-based cleaner need to be fine-tuned according to its different uses. Diatomite-based fabric cleaner consists of 5% diatomite, 15% AEO-9, 5% 6501, 5% AEO-7, 0.3% sodium silicate, 2% palmitic acid and 3% sodium citrate. Glass bottle cleaner comprises 5% diatomite, 15% AEO-9, 5% 6501, 5% AEO-7, 3.6% sodium silicate, 1.5% sodium sulfate, 1.8% sodium gluconate, and 7.5% sodium hydroxide. The prepared product has a good cleaning effect. In terms of fabric cleaning, the clean whiteness difference of the prepared cleaning agent on carbon black, protein and sebum stained cloth is 12.3, 3, 10.2, respectively, which are better than common cleaning products on the market, and the product can realize zero inter-dyeing of the cleaned fabric. In terms of glass cleaning, the clean whiteness difference of the prepared cleaning agent to carbon black, protein cloth is 11.26 and 4.19, respectively, which are better than common cleaning products on the market. When the temperature reaches 70 ℃, the adhesive layer on the back of the label can be effectively dissociated, and the effect is uniform. So that the label can be detached as a whole, thereby reducing secondary pollution. When the amount of cleaners is 2%, the mildew removal rate on the glass reaches 100%. The addition of diatomite improves the washing effect, dye removal and mildew removal. Diatomite can be used to formulate different cleaning agents.

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    苦水玫瑰精油对B16细胞中黑色素合成的影响及机制研究
    Effects of Kushui rose (Rosa setate × Rosa rugosa) essential oil on melanin synthesis in B16 cells and its mechanism
    吴亚妮,吕晓帆,王莹,唐寅
    2022 (3):  278-286.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.008
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    本文研究苦水玫瑰精油对小鼠B16黑素瘤细胞中黑色素合成的影响,并探讨其作用机制,为苦水玫瑰精油作为天然活性物质的开发应用提供实验依据。采用气相色谱与质谱联用技术(GC-MS)分析苦水玫瑰精油中的挥发性物质成分,研究对象为体外培养的小鼠B16细胞,构建α-黑素细胞刺激素(α-MSH)诱导的黑色素高表达细胞模型;经不同质量浓度的苦水玫瑰精油干预后,对B16细胞进行台盼蓝染色观察,采用CCK8法测定苦水玫瑰精油对黑色素细胞活力的影响;分别采用酶联免疫吸附法(ELISA)和多巴氧化法分析B16细胞中的黑色素含量和酪氨酸酶(Tyr)活性的变化;利用质量浓度为2 g/L的苦水玫瑰精油分别处理B16细胞12,24和48 h,通过实时荧光定量PCR(quantitative Real-time PCR,qRT-PCR)以及蛋白免疫印迹检测(Western blot)实验测定B16细胞内环磷酸腺苷(cyclic adenosine monophosphate,cAMP)的反应元件结合蛋白(CRE-binding protein,CREB)、p38丝裂原活化蛋白激酶(p38 MAP kinase,p38 MAPK)、细胞外调节蛋白激酶(extracellular signal-regulated kinases,ERK)与小眼畸形相关转录因子(microphthalmia-associated transcription factor,MITF)的表达情况,探究苦水玫瑰精油对黑色素合成途径的影响。qRT-PCR实验结果显示,苦水玫瑰精油处理B16细胞48 h后细胞内MITF基因的表达被显著抑制,MITF基因的表达下调了76%,CREB,p38 MAPK的表达也被显著抑制,其中抑制率分别达到54%,41%,而ERK1与ERK2的表达随时间延长而逐渐升高;Western-blot实验也得到相似结果,CREB,p38 MAPK蛋白与磷酸化表达水平的变化趋势与MITF相一致,随着时间增加表达量随之减少,而ERK蛋白表达水平随着处理时间的增加而逐渐升高。表明苦水玫瑰精油可以通过抑制上述三条信号途径下调MITF的表达,从而减少细胞内黑色素含量。

    The effects of Kushui rose essential oil on melanin synthesis in mouse B16 melanoma cells were investigated and its mechanism of action was explored to provide an experimental basis for the development and application of Kushui rose essential oil as a natural active substance. The volatile components of the essential oil were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The cell model with high melanin expression induced by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) was constructed using in vitro cultured mouse B16 cells. The effects of Kushui rose essential oil on melanocyte viability were determined by CCK8 method; the changes in melanin content and tyrosinase (Tyr) activity in B16 cells were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and dopa oxidation method, respectively; the expression of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP)-responsive element-binding protein (CRE-binding protein, CREB), p38 MAP kinase (p38 MAPK) and extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) in three signaling pathways was measured. The expression of CREB, p38 MAPK, ERK and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in B16 cells was determined by quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR) and western blotting using Kushui rose essential oil at a mass concentration of 2 g/L for 12 h, 24 h and 48 h, respectively. qRT-PCR results showed that the expression of MITF gene was significantly inhibited after 48 h treatment of B16 cells with Kushui rose essential oil. The expression of MITF gene was down-regulated by 76%, and the expression of CREB and p38 MAPK was also significantly inhibited, in which the inhibition rates reached 54% and 41%, respectively, while the expression of ERK1 and ERK2 gradually increased with time; similar results were obtained by western blot, and the trend of the expression levels of CREB and p38 MAPK was consistent with the expression level of MITF, which decreased with time, while the expression level of ERK gradually increased with time. It demonstrates that the Kushui rose essential oil reduces intracellular melanin production through three signaling pathways: cAMP/PKA, p38 MAPK and ERK/MAPK, and thus inhibit the expression of MITF.

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    炎症因子TNF-α对人体皮肤细胞的影响以及有效提取物的筛选
    Effect of inflammatory factor TNF-α on human skin cells and screening of effective extracts
    王培宇,权强华,魏静,高思宇,王一鸣,安全
    2022 (3):  287-293.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.009
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    本文首先以炎症因子TNF-α为刺激物作用于人体皮肤细胞,探究炎症因子对人体皮肤的影响。结果表明炎症因子TNF-α使得皮肤细胞内胶原蛋白含量表达异常,打破氧化还原系统影响人体皮肤,具有一定的加快皮肤老化作用,同时TNF-α可以作为刺激物建立慢性炎性皮肤衰老模型。后续实验通过TNF-α建立慢性炎性衰老模型,分别考察与比较维生素C、龙血竭提取物、铁皮石斛提取物对炎性衰老的抑制作用。结果表明,维生素C作为公认的抗衰老物质同样具有抑制炎性衰老功效;其次龙血竭提取物、铁皮石斛提取物同样具有一定的抑制炎性衰老功效。

    In order to explore the influence of inflammatory factors on human skin, inflammatory factor TNF-α was used as a stimulant to act on human skin cells. In this study, TNF-α was used as a stimulant to stimulate human skin cells. The results show that the content of senescence related secretion phenotype, IL-6 and IL-8, in the cells increases, and the cells are under the senescence state. The contents of type I collagen per protein in human skin fibroblasts, which are treated with 20, 100 and 200 ng/mL TNF-α for 24 h, are 2.740, 2.270 and 1.595 mg, respectively, lower than those in the control group; after 4 h of treatment, the contents of MMP-1 per protein are 3.10, 3.12 and 3.10 ng, respectively, higher than those in the control group. At the same time, compared with the control group, the content of intracellular reactive oxygen species is increased, and the balance of intracellular redox system is broken after the keratinocytes exposed to TNF-α. From the above experimental results, the inflammatory factor TNF-α causes the expression of collagen in skin cells abnormal, breaks the redox system, and has a certain effect on accelerating skin aging. Therefore, TNF-α can be used as a stimulant to establish a chronic inflammatory skin aging model. Follow-up experiments established a chronic inflammatory aging model through 200 ng/mL TNF-α, and investigated and compared the inhibitory effects of vitamin C, dragon’s blood extract, and Dendrobium officinale extract on it. The results show that, compared with the control group, 0.1 mg/mL vitamin C, 0.06 mg/mL dragon’s blood, and 0.5 mg/mL Dendrobium officinale extract can effectively promote the synthesis of intracellular collagen, and the contents per unit protein are 4.95, 4.84, 4.08 mg, respectively; can inhibit the expression of MMP-1, and its contents per unit protein are 1.31, 0.84, and 1.26 ng, respectively; can clear the content of reactive oxygen species in the cells and maintain the intracellular redox balance. The results show that vitamin C, as a recognized anti-aging substance, has the same anti-inflammatory aging effect; the extract of Resina draconis and Dendrobium officinale also have certain anti-inflammatory aging effect.

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    制备一种包埋木瓜蛋白酶生物膜材料并应用于美白护肤品
    Preparation of a papain-embedding biological membrane material and its application in the skin-whitening products
    李子宜,刘彦,张召,吴惠勤
    2022 (3):  294-301.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.010
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    木瓜蛋白酶是一种清除老化皮肤,祛除黑色素的天然巯基蛋白酶,具有美白嫩肤的功效。这种酶制剂需要保存在合适的温度、湿度、pH条件下,极容易在化妆品加工过程因为操作不当损失酶活力。通过聚丙烯酰胺(PAM)凝胶包埋的方法,成功地制备了一种水溶性强、酶活力高的木瓜蛋白酶生物膜。扫描电镜分析发现,当铝离子浓度为1.2 mol/L、铝离子加入量为500 μL、反应时间为10 h时,木瓜蛋白酶生物膜交联结构最为理想。用制备所得生物膜做成美白护肤品,该化妆品的酶活力是同质量浓度木瓜蛋白酶化妆品的3倍,表明该生物膜结构有效保护了化妆品中的酶活性。在研究木瓜蛋白酶生物膜与保湿剂复配稳定性实验中,发现小分子保湿剂不会影响包埋酶生物膜的结构。通过进行生物膜与乳化剂复配实验,结果表明生物膜中的聚丙烯酰胺会与乳化剂发生包裹聚沉反应,从而破坏生物膜包埋酶的稳定结构。基于上述研究,表明木瓜蛋白酶生物膜适用于含小分子保湿剂的水性化妆品配方体系。

    Papain is a natural sulfhydryl protease of removing aging skin and eliminating melanin, which has skin whitening and skin rejuvenation effects. This enzyme needs to be stored at appropriate temperature, humidity and pH, otherwise it will easy lose its activity during cosmetics processing because of improper operation. Compared with free enzyme, immobilized enzyme can maintain its high efficiency and specific catalytic activity. The commonly used methods of immobilization are cross-linking and embedding. Polyacrylamide (PAM) is a linear water-soluble macromolecule with good biocompatibility and harmless to skin without irritation. It is suitable for cosmetics and commonly used as cosmetics thickener. By PAM gel embedding method, a kind of papain biological membrane with good stability and high enzyme activity could be successfully synthesized. The SEM results showed that the optimal cross-linked structure of the biological membrane was obtained when the concentration and addition amount of aluminum ions was 1.2 mol/L, and 500 μL, and the reaction time was 10 h. It is found that the enzyme activity of the skin-whitening cosmetics containing this kind of biomaterial is three times higher than that of the enzyme-containing cosmetics because of the protection from PAM gel. However, the enzyme activity in the formula of cosmetics containing biological membrane was not as good as that of biological membrane, so the influencing factors of biological membrane stability need further study. It was found that small-molecule moisturizers such as glycerine, propanediol, carbamide and sorbitol did not affect the structure of the biological membrane with embedded enzyme. The sodium hyaluronate with high molecular weight could intertwine with the PAM, making the papain-embedding biological membrane wrap more tightly, resulting in a reduced contact area between the enzyme and the substrate. It was found that PAM would interact with the emulsifiers like Tween20, Tween60, Tween80, APG0814 or M68 and induce encapsulation and sedimentation, thus destroying the stable structure of the enzyme embedded in biological membrane. It is concluded that papain-embedding biological membrane is suitable for the formulation of water-based cosmetics containing small-molecule moisturizers.

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    专论与综述
    纤维型黏土在日化领域的应用研究进展
    Research progress on application of fiber-type clays in daily chemical industrial products
    唐颖,张兆伦,曹力化,熊紫怡,张茜,冯拥军
    2022 (3):  302-308.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.011
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    纤维型黏土(包含海泡石与坡缕石/凹凸棒石)是一类晶体结构呈纤维状、含水富镁铝硅酸盐的天然一维黏土矿物,其特殊的微观形貌(棒状、纤维状或纤维集合体)和纳米级孔道赋予了这类黏土矿物优异的离子交换能力、吸附性能、流变调节性和载体功能。近年来,纤维型黏土在个人护理品、洗涤用品等日用消费品中的应用增长迅速。该文以纤维型黏土的流变调节、防晒修饰、抑菌消炎、吸附与控释四种应用特性为主线,综述了这类天然黏土矿物在日用化学工业领域的应用特性、相关机理及毒理学研究进展,分析了纤维型黏土在日化领域应用面临的问题与挑战,并对其未来的发展趋势进行了展望,为我国科研人员充分利用优势矿物资源,进一步开发出高技术含量的日化产品提供参考。

    Fiber-type clays, including sepiolite and palygorskite (also wknown as attapulgite), are a type of natural one-dimensional clay mineral with fibrous crystal structure and water-rich magnesium aluminosilicate. China has the largest mineral reserves of attapulgite in the world, about 460 million tons of proven reserves, accounting for more than 70% of the world’s total reserves. Special crystal structures (rods, fibers or fiber assemblies) and neatly arranged nano-pores endow fiber-type clays with excellent ion exchange capacity, adsorption properties, rheological regulation and carrier functions, which hold enormous potential to be exploited for application in the field of daily chemistry. In recent years, the application of fiber clay in personal care products, detergents and other daily chemical consumer products is growing rapidly. Attapulgite has been used as a natural mineral ingredient in toothpaste, facial mask, face cream, shampoo and facial cleanser for oil controlling, skin cleansing and anti-microbial functionalities. In this paper, the application characteristics and related mechanisms of fiber-type clay minerals in daily chemical industry are reviewed from the aspects of rheological modification, UV protection, coloration, bacteriostasis, anti-inflammation, controlled adsorption and release as well as the related toxicological issues. The current problems and challenges of fiber-type clays in daily chemical industry are summarized, which provide important references for Chinese researchers to make full use of this type of characteristic clay minerals and to further develop high-tech and high-value daily chemical products.

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    微生物快速计数方法及其在化妆品检验中的应用分析
    Application analysis of rapid microbial counting method in the detection of aerobic bacterial count in cosmetics
    刘丰,王晓冲,罗俊,王晓炜,应国红
    2022 (3):  309-315.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.012
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    国内外的化妆品菌落总数检验标准方法基本一致,采用的是经典的平板计数法,该方法操作简单,但完成微生物检验过程所需的时间较长。随着微生物学技术的发展,逐渐开发出了基于各种原理的微生物快速计数方法。通过对比平板计数法和各种微生物快速计数方法在微生物检测中的优缺点,综合考虑检验时间、检验准确性以及微生物快速计数方法在化妆品微生物检验中的可行性,得出荧光显微镜计数法和流式细胞仪计数法在化妆品菌落总数检验中具有潜在的应用价值。荧光显微镜计数法和流式细胞仪计数法通过直接计数样品中的微生物数量,检验时间较短;不需要进行微生物培养,无需考虑化妆品中的防腐剂对微生物生长的抑制性,检验准确性较高。将微生物快速计数方法纳入化妆品菌落总数检测标准体系中,作为现行标准的补充,在化妆品菌落总数检验中具有重要的意义。

    The plate count method has been used as a classical method at home and abroad for the aerobic bacterial count in cosmetics, which is simple to operate, but it takes a long time to complete the entire detection process. With the development of microbiological technology, a variety of rapid microbial counting methods based on various principles have been gradually developed. By comparing the advantages and disadvantages of the plate count methods and various rapid microbial counting methods for the aerobic bacterial count in cosmetics, the length of detection time, the accuracy of the aerobic bacterial count, and the feasibility of rapid microbial counting method in the detection of aerobic bacterial count in cosmetics were comprehensively considered. It can be concluded that the fluorescence microscopy counting method and flow cytometry counting method have potential in the detection of aerobic bacterial count in cosmetics. The reasons are as follows, TEMPO® counting method, molecular biology counting method, ELISA (enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay) counting method, optical biosensors counting method, and mass spectrometry counting method have high specificity for bacteria and are only suitable for quantification of certain microorganisms, while microbial metabolism counting method, microfluidics counting methods, MicroSnapTM counting method, and SimplateTM counting method require microbial culture, thus preservatives in cosmetics will affect the accuracy of the total number of microorganisms in the sample. Although the fluorescence intensity counting method is suitable for the aerobic bacterial count in cosmetics, its sensitivity is quite low. The fluorescence microscopy counting method and flow cytometry counting method are suitable for the aerobic bacterial count in cosmetics for two reasons. The first reason is that the fluorescence microscopy counting method and flow cytometry counting method directly count the number of microorganisms in the sample so that the detection time is shorter. The second reason is that there is no need for microbial culture. Therefore, there is no need to consider the inhibitory effect of preservatives in cosmetics on microbial growth, so that the detection accuracy is higher. The introduction of rapid microbial counting methods into the standard system of the aerobic bacterial count in cosmetics, as a supplement to the current standard, is of great significance for aerobic bacterial count in cosmetics.

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    基于绿色低碳理念的日化包装设计研究
    Research on daily chemical packaging design based on green and low-carbon concept
    李娅
    2022 (3):  316-321.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.013
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    近年来随着社会经济水平的快速发展,人们的生活质量在不断提高,大众对商品的品质要求也越来越高,作为生活中必不可少的日用品,其包装也是该商品的重要部分。为了遵循我国可持续发展战略,推广绿色低碳的日用包装,实现人与自然和谐相处,绿色低碳包装已经被越来越多的人所认可,在未来也必然有着更大的发展空间。本文从绿色低碳理念的角度出发,分析了我国目前日化包装的特征和存在的问题,研究了绿色低碳理念下日化包装的本质特征和结构设计要求,结合环境保护和日化包装设计二者的联系,配合案例佐证了绿色低碳设计的重要性,围绕着绿色低碳日化包装材料的分类特点,通过分析绿色低碳理念下日化包装设计的发展,对其未来的前景和应用价值进行了阐述和展望。

    With the rapid development of social economy in recent years, people’s quality of life is constantly improving, and the public has higher requirements for product quality. As an essential daily necessity in life, its packaging is also an important part of the product. In order to follow the country’s sustainable development strategy, promote green and low-carbon daily chemical packaging, and achieve harmony between man and nature, green and low-carbon packaging has been recognized by more and more people. It will inevitably have more room for development in the future. From the perspective of the concept of green and low-carbon, this paper analyzes the characteristics and existing problems of the country’s current daily chemical packaging, and studies the essential characteristics and structural design requirements of daily chemical packaging under the concept of green and low-carbon. The characteristics of simplicity and recyclability are described and analyzed through specific cases. Combined with the relationship between environmental protection and daily chemical packaging design, the importance of green and low-carbon design is proved by case studies. Focusing on the classification characteristics of green and low-carbon daily chemical packaging materials, the paper analyzes the development of daily chemical packaging design under the concept of green and low-carbon. Its future prospects and application value are expounded and prospected.

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    分析与检测
    面膜中荧光增白剂的透皮吸收特性及对皮肤刺激性的实验研究
    Study on transdermal absorption and skin irritation of fluorescent whitening agents in facial mask
    张虹艳,石晓峰,王小乔,刘兴国,刘亚鹏,李赟
    2022 (3):  322-327.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.014
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    为了研究含脂溶性荧光增白剂(FWAs)面膜的透皮吸收特性及其对皮肤刺激性,采用改良的Franz透皮扩散池,以离体雄性大鼠腹部皮肤为模型,通过高效液相色谱-三重四极杆液质联用法测定接收液中5种吡唑啉型荧光增白剂的含量,计算其不同透皮时间段的累计渗透量,并对试验终期皮肤中FWAs的贮留量进行检测;按《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版)中皮肤刺激性实验要求,采用家兔进行皮肤刺激性试验。结果显示,5种脂溶性FWAs呈现良好的线性关系,相关系数(r2)均大于0.999,检出限为0.5~10.0 pg,定量限为2.0~30.0 pg,平均回收率和相对标准偏差分别为95.2%~102.1%和1.8%~4.2%。面膜中的脂溶性荧光增白剂C.I.162有较强的透皮能力可以进入皮下,在0~36 h内透皮扩散符合零级动力学方程;而C.I.135、C.I.185、C.I.367、C.I.368四种FWAs短期内均被皮肤吸收而未透过皮肤。结果提示,脂溶性FWAs较易迁移到皮肤的角质层或皮下,对哺乳动物皮肤没有刺激作用。

    In order to study the transdermal absorption characteristics and skin irritation of the fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) in the facial mask, the content of 5 pyrazoline fat-soluble FWAs in the receiving solution was determined by high performance liquid chromatography triple quadrupole liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS) with the modified Franz transdermal diffusion cell and the abdominal skin of male rats in vitro. The cumulative penetration amount of 5 pyrazoline fat-soluble FWAs at different time points was calculated, and the FWAs remained in the skin was detected at the end of the experiment. The skin irritation test was carried out using rabbits according to the requirements of skin irritation test in “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics” (2015 Edition). The results show that there is good linear relationship between the five fat-soluble FWAs determined by HPLC-MS/MS in their respective concentration ranges. The correlation coefficients (r 2) are all greater than 0.999. The detection limits are 0.5-10.0 pg and the lower limits of quantification are 2.0-30.0 pg. The average recoveries and relative standard deviations are 95.2%-102.1% and 1.8%-4.2%, respectively. The liposoluble FWAs C.I.162 in the mask could penetrate into the skin, and the transdermal diffusion within 0-36 h is in accordance with zero order kinetics equation. C.I.135, C.I.185, C.I.367 and C.I.368 are absorbed in the skin but not through the skin in a short period. Skin irritation test shows that 5 pyrazoline liposoluble FWAs in facial mask have no irritation on rabbit skin. It is suggested that the fat-soluble FWAs are easy to migrate to the stratum corneum or subcutaneous layer of the skin and have no iiritating effect on mammalian skin.

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    UPLC-MS/MS法测定油基类化妆品中39种性激素
    Determination of 39 sex hormones in oil-based cosmetics by ultra-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry
    胡贝,李丽霞,刘红,黄伟,丁晓萍
    2022 (3):  328-336.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.015
    摘要 ( 219 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1094KB) ( 211 )  

    建立了超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法(UPLC-MS/MS)测定油基类化妆品中39种性激素的方法。样品经正己烷分散,70%乙腈超声提取,在CORTECS C18 (2.1 mm×150 mm,2.7 μm)色谱柱上分离,流动相为乙腈-水进行梯度洗脱,采用多反应监测(MRM)模式测定。结果表明,39种性激素在该方法下的基质效应值为0.78~1.26,检出限(LODs)和定量限(LOQs)分别为0.6~2.3 μg/L和1.9~6.8 μg/L,在1.87~67.41 μg/L范围内线性关系良好(相关系数r>0.995)。在0.25,0.50和1.00 μg/g 3个加标水平下的回收率为81.7%~110.6%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)为1.2%~14.1%。该方法前处理简便,准确性好,适用于油基类化妆品中性激素的测定。

    An ultra-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) method was developed for the determination of 39 sex hormones in oil-based cosmetics. The sample was dispersed with n-hexane, then extracted with 70% acetonitrile, and separated on a CORTECS C18 (2.1 mm×150 mm, 2.7 μm) column by gradient elution using acetonitrile-water as mobile phase. The analysis was performed under multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode. The results showed that the matrix effects of 39 sex hormones were 0.78-1.26. The limits of detection (LODs) and limits of quantitation (LOQs) for 39 sex hormones were in the range of 0.6-2.3 μg/L and 1.9~6.8 μg/L, respectively. There was good linear relationship for 39 sex hormones in the mass concentration range of 1.87-67.41 μg/L with their correlation coefficients (r) all above 0.995. The average recoveries at three spiked levels of 0.25, 0.50 and 1.00 μg/g were in the range of 81.7%-110.6%, with relative standard deviations (RSDs, n=6) of 1.2%-14.1%. The simplicity and accuracy of this method make it suitable for the analysis of sex hormones in oil-based cosmetics.

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    高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中16种防腐剂、防晒剂和去屑剂
    Simultaneous determination of 16 preservatives, sunscreens and anti-dandruffs in cosmetics by HPLC
    陈燕,鲍熹珺,闫秀芳,刘建宁,郭芳,牛文霞
    2022 (3):  337-344.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.016
    摘要 ( 324 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF(1044KB) ( 279 )  

    建立了高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中防腐剂、防晒剂和去屑剂共16种组分的分析方法。样品经甲醇提取后,使用Eclipse Plus C18(250 mm×4.6 mm×5 μm)色谱柱,以甲醇-0.5 mmol/L EDTA-2Na水溶液(pH=3.06)为流动相,梯度洗脱。采用二极管阵列检测器在多波长下同时测定化妆品中10种防腐剂、4种防晒剂和2种去屑剂。该方法的相对标准偏差为2.2%~6.5%,回收率为90.9%~109.7%,16种组分在相应的线性范围内线性关系良好,相关系数范围为0.999 0~0.999 7,该方法具有较高的准确度和精密度,能满足实际检测需求,为实验室检测提供新的技术支持。

    A method based on HPLC was established for the determination of 16 components in cosmetics including 10 types of preservatives, 4 types of sunscreens and 2 types of anti-dandruffs. The amount of 0.5 g of the cosmetic product was dissolved in methanol in a 10 mL volumetric flask and was ultrasonically extracted for 30 min. The extract was filtered through a 0.22 μm membrane, and then 10 μL solution was introduced onto an Eclipse Plus C18 column (250 mm×0.46 mm×5 μm) with methanol-0.5 mmol/L EDTA-2Na aqueous solution (pH=3.06) as mobile phase by gradient elution. The 16 components were separated at multiple wavelengths of the DAD detector. These preservatives, sunscreen agents and anti-dandruffs could be analyzed within 50 min simultaneously. The external standard method was employed for quantitative determination. The relative standard deviation of the method is 2.2%-6.5%, and the recovery is 90.9%-109.7%. The limits of detection (LODs, S/N=3) and limits of quantification (LOQs,S/N=10) of 16 components were determined. By this method, different extraction solvent, extraction time and mobile phase were compared. Among these, methanol is used as extraction solvent for 30 minutes and methanol-0.5 mmol/LEDTA-2Na aqueous solution (pH=3.06) as mobile phase shows good linear relationship in their respective mass concentration range, with the correlation coefficients higher than 0.999 0. This method has high accuracy and precision. 30 products in the market were analyzed, and the results show that phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid, and methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate are the most commonly added preservatives in cosmetics. For the four sunscreens, octyl 4-methoxycinnamate is the most frequently added. Ketoconazole is not detected in these products. In these products, all of the 16 components are lower than the relevant limits in China. This method provides technical support for market supervision and laboratory testing, which also can meet their practical testing requirements.

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