关键词: 化妆品美白原料, β-熊果苷;, 高效液相色谱法, 氢醌, 稳定性

Abstract:

The β-arbutin degradation product hydroquinone was detected by high performance liquid chromatography to investigate the effects of temperature, content, pH, standing time, Staphylococcus epidermidis and epidermal cells on the stability of β-arbutin. Results show that β-arbutin aqueous solution remains relatively stable under pH of 5 and temperature of 40 ℃, and β-arbutin becomes unstable under pH of 3. The longer the standing time is, the more hydroquinone is produced by the decomposition of β-arbutin. At the same time, it is found that Staphylococcus epidermidis cultured in different content of β-arbutin for 24 h, and β-arbutin does not decompose into hydroquinone, indicating that Staphylococcus epidermidis does not lead to the decomposition of β-arbutin. The epidermal cells were cultured in the medium containing different content of β-arbutin for 24 h, and hydroquinone was generated, indicating that the epidermal cells promote the decomposition of β-arbutin. Further studies show that β-arbutin materials are very stable at different temperatures and humidity. But adding vitamin C and pearl powder into β-arbutin can redu ce the stability of β-arbutin.

Key words: cosmetic whitening ingredient, β-arbutin;, high performance liquid chromatography, hydroquinone, stability