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日用化学工业(中英文) ›› 2025, Vol. 55 ›› Issue (12): 1567-1574.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.12.009

• 基础研究 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于化学损伤的发用修护功效评价方法研究

訾玉沙1,刘建伟1,方淑红2,李萌2,黄庆3,彭先武4,*()   

  1. 1 安利(上海)科技发展有限公司上海 201203
    2 杭州希科检测技术有限公司浙江 杭州 310052
    3 中国药科大学江苏 南京 210009
    4 安利(中国)日用品有限公司广东 广州 510730
  • 收稿日期:2024-12-20 修回日期:2025-12-30 出版日期:2025-12-22 发布日期:2026-01-23

Research on evaluation methods for hair repair effects based on chemical damage

Yusha Zi1,Jianwei Liu1,Shuhong Fang2,Meng Li2,Qing Huang3,Xianwu Peng4,*()   

  1. 1 Amway (Shanghai) Innovation and Science Co., Ltd., Shanghai 201203, China
    2 Hangzhou C&K Testing Technic Co., Ltd., Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310052, China
    3 China Pharmaceutical University, Nanjing, Jiangsu 210009, China
    4 Amway (China) Co., Ltd., Guangzhou, Guangdong 510730, China
  • Received:2024-12-20 Revised:2025-12-30 Online:2025-12-22 Published:2026-01-23
  • Contact: *E-mail: simon_peng@amway.com.

摘要:

随着消费者对烫染等美发需求的增加,头发损伤问题日益严重,市场对护发产品的修护功效提出了更高要求。然而,目前缺乏统一的修护功效评价标准。该研究旨在建立一套完整的发用产品化学损伤修护功效评价体系:通过扫描电子显微镜(SEM)观察发束纤维毛鳞片状态、定量研究横截面孔洞面积;通过仪器测试发束的摩擦系数、梳理功、断裂头发根数和分叉情况以评估发束的物理性能;并通过UV法和LCMS/MS法分析蛋白质溶出量及半胱氨酸含量以研究发束的化学性能。综合这些方法,评估了体外发束在化学损伤后的修护效果。研究结果表明:使用发膜后发束的纤维毛鳞片显著改善,横截面孔洞面积显著减小;摩擦系数、干梳理功、断裂数量、分叉数量、蛋白质溶出和半胱氨酸含量均显著减少,证实了修护产品的有效性。说明建立的功效评价方法能够有效评估发用产品对于化学损伤的修护效果,为护发产品的开发和评估提供了科学有效的工具。

关键词: 体外发束, 化学损伤, 修护, 横截面孔洞, 半胱氨酸

Abstract:

With the increasing demand for hair beautification treatments such as dyeing and perming among consumers, hair damage has become increasingly prevalent, which in turn has driven market attention and demand for hair care products with repair efficacy. However, there currently lacks a unified evaluation standard for repair efficacy. This study aims to establish a comprehensive evaluation system for the repair efficacy of hair care products against chemical damage. In this study, we observed the cuticle morphology of hair fiber surface using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and quantitatively analyzed the cross-sectional pore area. We also assessed the physical properties of hair bundles by measuring their coefficient of friction, combing work, number of broken hairs, and split ends using instrumental tests. Additionally, we analyzed the released amount of protein and cysteine content using UV and LC-MS/MS methods to investigate the chemical properties of hair bundles. By integrating these methods, we evaluated the repair effects of in vitro hair bundles subjected to chemical damage. The results indicate that after using hair masks, the hair cuticles show significant improvement, with a notable reduction in cross-sectional pore area. The coefficient of friction, dry combing work, number of broken hairs, number of split ends, the released amount of protein, and cysteine content are all significantly decreased, confirming the effectiveness of the repair products. This suggests that the efficacy evaluation method established in this study can effectively assess the repair efficacy of hair care products against chemical damage, providing a scientific and effective tool for the development and evaluation of hair care products. Overall, through SEM, physical property testing, and chemical property testing, this study provides a scientific basis for the evaluation method of repair efficacy against chemical damage in hair care products and establishes a comprehensive evaluation system.

Key words: in-vitro hair bundles, chemical damage, repairing, cross-sectional pore, cysteine

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658