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日用化学工业（中英文）

日用化学工业（中英文） ›› 2022, Vol. 52 ›› Issue (11): 1179-1187.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.11.005

• 开发与应用 • 上一篇    下一篇

甘油和1，3-丁二醇在D相乳化法制备卸妆油中的应用研究

董蕾蕾1,黄天怿1,蔡屹超1,段国兰1,吴旭1,周千慧2,张冬梅2,*()   

  1. 1.华熙生物科技股份有限公司，上海 200131
    2.上海应用技术大学 香料香精化妆品学部，上海 201418
    3.香料香精及化妆品教育部工程研究中心，上海 201418
  • 收稿日期:2021-12-31 修回日期:2022-10-31 出版日期:2022-11-22 发布日期:2022-11-22
  • 通讯作者: 张冬梅

Research on the application of glycerin and 1.3-butanediol in the preparation of cleansing oil by D-phase emulsification method

Dong Leilei1,Huang Tianyi1,Cai Yichao1,Duan Guolan1,Wu Xu1,Zhou Qianhui2,Zhang Dongmei2,*()   

  1. 1. Bloomage Biotechnology Corporation Limited, Shanghai 200131, China
    2. Division of Perfume and Cosmetics, Shanghai Institute of Technology, Shanghai 201418, China
    3. Engineering Research Center of Perfume & Aroma and Cosmetics, Ministry of Education, Shanghai 201418, China
  • Received:2021-12-31 Revised:2022-10-31 Online:2022-11-22 Published:2022-11-22
  • Contact: Dongmei Zhang

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摘要：

采用D相乳化法制备卸妆油，选择PEG-20甘油三异硬脂酸酯为乳化剂，以甘油或1，3-丁二醇为助乳化剂，选用矿物油、烷烃类、酯类中的10种油脂，系统分析油脂和多元醇在D相乳化过程中对所形成乳液的外观、电导率、微观结构和乳液类型的影响。研究结果表明：按照m （油脂）∶m （乳化剂）∶m （助乳化剂）=6∶3∶1的比例，发现矿物油（7#、10#）、棕榈酸乙基己酯与两种多元醇均可以形成透明的卸妆油体系，而异十六烷仅可以与1，3-丁二醇作用得到相同体系。通过观察乳液外观和电导率变化，发现酯类油脂与甘油的界面张力越大，形成的体系透明度越高，粒子的粒径越小。与甘油相比，1，3-丁二醇可以提升D相乳化过程中微乳液的透明度和粒子的导电能力，更易形成双连续相结构，应用于卸妆油配方体系中。

关键词: D相乳化, PEG-20甘油三异硬脂酸酯, 甘油, 1, 3-丁二醇, 卸妆油

Abstract:

The cleansing oil was prepared by D-phase emulsification method. PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate was selected as the emulsifier, glycerol or 1.3-butanediol was used as the co-emulsifier, and 10 kinds of oils in mineral oil, alkane and ester were selected. The effects of oils and polyols on the appearance, conductivity, microstructure and type of emulsion formed during D-phase emulsification were systematically analyzed. The research results show that: according to the ratio of fat∶emulsifier∶co-emulsifier （6∶3∶1）, it is found that mineral oil （7#, 10#）, ethylhexyl palmitate and two polyols can all form transparent cleansing oil system, but isohexadecane can only work with 1.3-butanediol to get the same system. By observing the appearance and electrical conductivity of the emulsion, it is found that the greater the interfacial tension between ester oils and glycerol, the higher the transparency of the formed system and the smaller the particle size. Compared with glycerin, 1.3-butanediol can improve the transparency of the microemulsion and the conductivity of the particles in the D-phase emulsification process, and it is easier to form a two-continuous phase structure, which can be used in a cleansing oil formulation system.

Key words: D-phase emulsification, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, glycerin, 1.3-butanediol, cleansing oil

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658