透明质酸锌的护肤功效研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.010

Abstract

Abstract:

With zinc hyaluronate of different molecular weight as the research object, the in vitro moisturizing, oil control, firming and soothing effects were studied by the zebrafish mosturiztion test, the lipid drop detection of sebacogland cell SZ95, the inhibition of 5α reductase, the proliferation of fibroblasts, the detection of type Ⅰ collagen content, and the inhibition of inflammatory factor of macrophages. The results show that 0.5% zinc hyaluronate can inhibit the water loss caused by high osmotic pressure of zebrafish and has significant moisturizing effect. Large molecules of zinc hyaluronate can achieve oil control effect by inhibiting 5α reductase. Medium and small molecules of zinc hyaluronate can achieve oil control effect by inhibiting the synthesis of lipid droplets and inhibiting 5α reductase. Small molecules of zinc hyaluronic acid can promote fibroblast proliferation in a dose-dependent way. Collagen I formation is significantly promoted by medium molecules of zinc hyaluronic acid at 125, 12.5 and 1.25 μg/mL. The expressions of IL-1α, TNF-α and PGE 2 are significantly inhibited by large, medium and small molecules of zinc hyaluronate at the mass concentrations of 25 and 125 μg/mL. Experiments show that zinc hyaluronate has good moisturizing, oil control, firming, and soothing effect.

Key words: zinc hyaluronate, moisturize, oil control, firming, soothing

CLC Number:

TQ658

Haijiao Guo, Xiaona Wang, Suzhen Yang, Chunying Yuan, Xuan Ren, Tingting Han. Study on the skin care efficacy of zinc hyaluronate[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(12): 1429-1436.

Figures/Tables 7

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References 23

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试剂	空白对照组（BC）	正常组（NC）	度他雄胺组（PC）	待测组（R）
10 mg/mL 5α还原酶	0	5 μL	5 μL	5 μL
Tris-HCl缓冲液，pH=7.4	70 μL	65 μL	65 μL	65 μL
度他雄胺	0	0	10 μL	0
待测样品	0	0	0	10 μL
溶剂对照（Tris-HCl缓冲液）	10 μL	10 μL	0	0
睾酮（4 μg/mL）	10 μL	10 μL	10 μL	10 μL
NADPH（10 mmol/L）	10 μL	10 μL	10 μL	10 μL

样品名称	OD值	SD	P	抑制率/ %
BC	0.348	0.028
NC	0.483	0.025	0.003 6	—
PC	0.404	0.012	0.008 3	16.36
大分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	0.478	0.025	0.808 7	—
大分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	0.449	0.013	0.106 2	—
大分子HA-Zn-5 μg/mL	0.473	0.014	0.574 9	—
中分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	0.429	0.005	0.021 3	11.18
中分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	0.440	0.007	0.045 7	8.90
中分子HA-Zn-5 μg/mL	0.441	0.006	0.049 1	8.70
小分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	0.421	0.005	0.014 1	12.84
小分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	0.437	0.011	0.044 4	9.52
小分子HA-Zn-5 μg/mL	0.439	0.010	0.046 0	9.11

样品名称	质量浓度/（μg/mL）	平均抑制率/%	SD/%	P
NC	0	0.00	1.72
PC	5	78.52	1.19	0.000
大分子HA-Zn	160	101.10	0.32	0.000
	80	94.81	2.37	0.000
	40	96.21	3.59	0.000
	20	80.75	9.61	0.000
	10	86.07	3.11	0.000
	5	75.75	0.63	0.000
中分子HA-Zn	160	93.45	3.98	0.000
	80	109.41	10.61	0.000
	40	94.55	7.48	0.000
	20	99.26	2.50	0.000
	10	92.78	1.89	0.000
	5	99.28	2.99	0.000
小分子HA-Zn	160	100.97	3.42	0.000
	80	102.84	1.94	0.000
	40	89.10	4.29	0.000
	20	95.75	0.56	0.000
	10	90.07	1.33	0.000
	5	87.75	7.44	0.000

样品名称	0 h	SD	24 h	SD	P	48 h	SD	P	72 h	SD	P
BC	100	1.03	165.58	9.24		230.31	5.28		324.66	7.55
PC	100	1.03	234.93	8.90	0.02	305.31	8.92	0.01	413.36	7.41	—
大分子HA-Zn-1.2 μg/mL	100	1.03	159.93	5.20	—	242.12	3.93	0.03	323.97	2.82	—
大分子HA-Zn-6 μg/mL	100	1.03	159.25	8.45	—	246.23	6.14	0.01	332.02	3.47	—
大分子HA-Zn-30 μg/mL	100	1.03	167.47	6.53	—	253.25	5.17	0.01	349.66	8.65	—
中分子HA-Zn-1.25 μg/mL	100	1.03	158.39	3.73	—	235.62	3.85	—	325.34	1.52	—
中分子HA-Zn-12.5 μg/mL	100	1.03	170.38	7.81	—	238.36	8.63	—	357.19	9.14	—
中分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	100	1.03	176.37	5.32	—	237.50	7.55	—	325.51	7.12	—
小分子HA-Zn-1 μg/mL	100	1.03	160.10	9.34	—	255.31	9.18	0.01	325.51	8.98	—
小分子HA-Zn-3 μg/mL	100	1.03	163.18	5.72	—	259.59	4.72	0.01	339.04	5.77	—
小分子HA-Zn-5 μg/mL	100	1.03	174.49	6.57	—	267.81	7.21	0.01	342.29	7.04	—

样品名称	平均质量浓度/（ng/mL）	SD	P-Value	提升率/ %
BC	35.30	2.06
PC	64.48	4.45	0.000	82.66
大分子HA-Zn-5 μg/mL	36.65	3.38	0.587	—
大分子HA-Zn-3 μg/mL	35.38	2.16	0.964	—
大分子HA-Zn-1 μg/mL	35.25	3.71	0.983	—
中分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	41.81	1.31	0.010	18.44
中分子HA-Zn-12.5 μg/mL	40.99	1.56	0.019	16.12
中分子HA-Zn-1.25 μg/mL	40.21	1.63	0.032	13.91
小分子HA-Zn-30 μg/mL	33.95	1.96	0.457	—
小分子HA-Zn-6 μg/mL	35.37	1.30	0.960	—
小分子HA-Zn-1.2 μg/mL	38.16	0.19	0.075	—

Study on the skin care efficacy of zinc hyaluronate

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测试指标	名称	平均质量浓度/（pg/mL）	SD	P-value	抑制率/%
IL-1α	BC	5.4	0.1
	NC	54.8	1.6	0.000 1
	PC	19.2	0.9	0.000 1	64.91
	大分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	47.4	0.5	0.000 1	13.56
	大分子HA-Zn-75 μg/mL	35.1	0.9	0.000 1	36.07
	大分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	18.1	0.9	0.000 1	66.97
IL-1α	中分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	39.0	2.2	0.000 1	28.83
	中分子HA-Zn-75 μg/mL	33.1	0.7	0.000 1	39.62
	中分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	27.3	0.1	0.000 1	50.29
	小分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	49.1	2.0	0.000 1	10.51
	小分子HA-Zn-75 μg/mL	37.1	1.0	0.000 1	32.63
	小分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	20.6	2.0	0.000 1	62.50
TNF-α	BC	851.6	9.0
	NC	1 187.8	28.0	0.000 1
	PC	825.0	8.2	0.000 1	30.54
	大分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	855.3	9.0	0.000 1	24.02
	大分子HA-Zn-75 μg/mL	890.1	10.3	0.000 1	25.06
	大分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	902.5	23.2	0.000 1	27.99
	中分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	928.0	21.7	0.007 0	11.42
	中分子HA-Zn-75 μg/mL	995.2	35.7	0.000 1	16.21
	中分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	1 052.2	61.9	0.000 1	21.88
	小分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	906.3	21.5	0.000 1	19.09
	小分子HA-Zn-75 μg/mL	930.8	37.9	0.000 1	21.64
	小分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	961.1	19.1	0.000 1	23.70
PGE 2	BC	486.6	11.6
	NC	568.2	12.6	0.000 1
	PC	508.7	4.8	0.000 1	10.47
	大分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	514.7	25.2	0.000 1	9.43
	大分子HA-Zn-75 μg/mL	511.5	30.8	0.000 1	9.98
	大分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	509.4	20.4	0.002 0	10.35
	中分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	506.9	29.1	0.001 0	10.79
	中分子HA-Zn-75 μg/mL	501.5	50.3	0.001 0	11.74
	中分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	495.6	23.3	0.000 1	12.79
	小分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	457.4	16.8	0.000 1	15.98
	小分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	476.9	24.1	0.000 1	16.07
	小分子HA-Zn-75 μg/mL	467.2	26.2	0.000 1	17.78

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