Abstract:

In recent years, with the continuous development of the global economy and the gradual improvement of the living standards of residents, consumers have higher and higher requirements on the quantity, quality, safety and efficacy of cosmetics. At the same time, the proportion of people with sensitive skin is gradually increasing due to air pollution, ultraviolet radiation, work and life pressure, irregular diet and rest, and long-term wearing of masks during the epidemic. Compared with normal skin, sensitive skin is more prone to skin irritation and other problems, while soothing cosmetics can help improve the skin tension, dryness, redness, burning, tingling, itching, scale and other adverse skin conditions caused by internal and external factors. China’s current laws and regulations, the Evaluation Criteria for Cosmetic Efficacy claims, clearly require that cosmetics with efficacy claims such as anti wrinkle, firming and soothing should be evaluated for efficacy claims. However, at present, there is no scientific and effective method system related to the evaluation of soothing efficacy at home and abroad, and there is no standard evaluation method for reference in the industry. It is not conducive to the development of raw materials, formulation development and efficacy evaluation of soothing cosmetics, and it is difficult to protect the rights and interests of consumers. Starting from the causes of sensitive skin, this paper expounds the formation mechanism of sensitive skin caused by the impairment of skin barrier function, skin immune inflammatory reaction, skin nerve reaction and their mutual promotion and accumulation, which provides a certain theoretical basis for the development of soothing raw materials and cosmetic products with the functions of repairing skin barrier function, inhibiting skin inflammatory reaction and calming nerves. On this basis, the evaluation methods of the soothing efficacy of cosmetics in different dimensions such as human body, animal, 3D skin model, cell, biochemistry and physicochemistry are also investigated, aiming to provide scientific basis and theoretical support for the establishment and improvement of the soothing efficacy evaluation system. It helps to continuously improve the cosmetics regulatory system that conforms to China’s national conditions and is in line with international standards, protect the rights and interests of consumers, and promote the sustainable and healthy development of China’s cosmetics industry.

Key words: soothing effect, cosmetic efficacy evaluation, sensitive skin, mechanism of action