基于UPLC-QTOF-MS强脉冲光照射对女性面部脂质影响

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.005

Abstract

Abstract:

Intense pulsed light （IPL） is a continuous, multi-wavelength, incoherent broad-spectrum light with a wavelength of （500 to 1 200） nm. In this research, a total of 31 female volunteers at the age of 23.39±1.41 years were recruited to get half-face IPL irradiation at the Air Force Medical Center, PLA. Indexes as stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss （TEWL）, sebum content, pH value, erythema index and melanin index were observed and discussed, together with the analysis of facial skin surface lipid （SSL） conducted by ultra-performance liquid chromatography with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry （UPLC-QTOF-MS） combined with OPLS-DA （Orthogonal Partial Least Squares-Discriminant Analysis） mode based on samples prior of （PI） and after （AI, One week after IPL irradiation） IPL irradiation. The results indicate that water content of the stratum corneum （P=0.024） significantly increase in AI compared with PI. However, the remarkable decrease of melanin index （P<0.001） and erythema index （P<0.001） in AI is detected. And there are no sufficient changes in TEWL value, pH value, and sebum content. Additionally, a total of 1 704 lipids are detected and 60 different facial SSL lipids are further screened between PI and AI. Differential lipids are divided into 7 categories, of which 5 major types -[FA], [SP], [ST], [PR], [PK] are excessively degraded after IPL irradiation. The content of 16 subclass is significantly different between PI and AI, all of which are AI lower than PI. Ceramides （CERs） are the main differential lipids, and the content in AI is lower than PI. While the CERs levels are related to skin barrier damage. This provides new ideas for the development of lipid-added skincare products after IPL irradiation.

Key words: skin lipids, IPL, UPLC-QTOF-MS, skincare products

CLC Number:

TQ658

Hu Yiqiong, Ding Wenyu, Yu Xiaoqian, Tian Yan, He Congfen. Effects of intense pulsed light irradiation on female facial lipids based on UPLC-QTOF-MS[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(1): 32-40.

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References 22

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脂质名称	种类个数	占比/%	脂质名称	种类个数	占比/%
脂肪酸偶联物	8	14	三壬基甘油	2	3
脂肪酯	5	8	神经酰胺	11	18
脂肪酰胺	3	5	中性鞘糖脂	5	8
胆汁酸及其衍生物	2	3	类异戊二烯	1	2
类固醇	2	3	甘油磷酸甘油	2	3
类花生酸	2	3	醌和对苯二酚	1	2
番荔素	1	2	脂肪醇	1	2
甘油磷酸盐	3	5	酚类脂质	1	2
脂肪酰基苷	1	2	二酰基甘油	5	8
类黄酮	1	2	其他脂肪酰	2	4
甘油磷酸肌醇	1	2

亚类名称	含量	作用机制
[FA01]	均是AI>PI	抗菌；影响细胞增殖与分裂
[FA08]		调节细胞增殖周期^[7]；抑制炎症^[8]；镇痛
[FA13]		抗菌
[FA07]		抗真菌
[FA05]		抗金黄色葡萄球菌^[9]；抑制炎症^[10]；促进皮肤渗透作用；增加皮肤血流量^[11]
[FA00]		可能参与细胞内信号通路调节^[12]
[SP05]		抑制细胞凋亡^[13]；构成皮肤屏障
[ST01]		保湿；抗炎；调节角质层细胞的聚合与剥离^[14]
[ST02]		类固醇的过量分泌引起人体的皮脂腺分泌旺盛，痤疮、脂溢性皮炎等疾病
[ST03]	均是AI>PI	抑制UVB诱导细胞产生ROS、H₂O₂^[15]，防止DNA损失；抑制黑素细胞的增殖^[16]
[ST04]		抑制细胞增殖^[17]
[PR01]		提高体内超氧化物歧化酶活性、抗氧化
[PR02]		抗氧化、抗菌
[PK03]		抗炎、抗氧化
[PK12]		抗炎；促进伤口愈合^[18]
[PK15]		抗氧化

分子式	脂质名称	相对含量
分子式	脂质名称	PI	AI
C₆₅H₁₂₃NO₆	omega-linoleoyloxy-Cer（t18:1（6OH）/29:0）	395 030	86 524
C₄₄H₈₇NO₃	Cer（d18:1/26:0）	92 609	7 544
C₆₅H₁₂₅NO₆	omega-linoleoyloxy-Cer（t18:0/29:0）	727 198	253 730
C₃₂H₆₅NO₃	Cer（d18:0/14:0）	475 470	1 005 697
C₃₄H₆₉NO₃	Cer（d18:0/16:0）	508 231	1 135 666
C₃₄H₆₅NO₃	Cer（d18:2/16:0）	434 586	200 264
C₃₄H₆₇NO₄	Cer（d14:1（4E）/20:0（2OH））	92 702	12 224
C₃₃H₆₅NO₅	Cer（t18:1（6OH）/15:0（2OH））	630 561	273 902
C₃₆H₇₃NO₃	Cer（d18:0/18:0）	159 892	362 804
C₃₄H₆₇NO₅	Cer（t18:1（6OH）/16:0（2OH））	402 538	138 652
C₃₈H₇₇NO₃	Cer（d18:0/20:0）	155 975	392 935

Effects of intense pulsed light irradiation on female facial lipids based on UPLC-QTOF-MS

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时间/min	φ（A相）/%	φ（B相）/%
0	60	40
1	60	40
16	0	100
18	0	100
20.1	60	40
22	60	40