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China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics ›› 2023, Vol. 53 ›› Issue (2): 121-132.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.02.001

• Basic research •     Next Articles

Preparation of P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion

Lv Yawen,Wang Jingwen,Ye Zhicheng,Shang Yazhuo(),Liu Honglai   

  1. Laboratory of Cosmetics, School of Chemistry & Molecular Engineering, East China University of Science and Technology, Shanghai 200237, China
  • Received:2022-03-10 Revised:2023-01-28 Online:2023-02-22 Published:2023-02-23
  • Contact: Yazhuo Shang E-mail:shangyazhuo@ecust.edu.cn

Abstract:

A type of polyol-in-oil-in-liquid crystal-in-water (P/O/LC/W) multiple emulsion was prepared by two-step method with liquid crystal emulsifier and traditional emulsifier. The samples were characterized by microscopy. The effects of different liquid crystal emulsifiers, emulsification temperature and homogenization rate on the microstructure of P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion were studied. The steps of preparation process were as follows: The emulsification temperature was 60-75 ℃; the homogenization rate of polyol in oil was 7 000-8 400 r/min and homogenization time was ~6 min; the homogenization rate of polyol in oil in liquid crystal in water was 4 400-6 000 r/min and homogenization time was ~7 min. The emulsion was put at room temperature for 28 days, and multiple structures and liquid crystal structures could still be observed, and the liquid crystal became brighter. The components of the formula were glycerol (polyol phase), squalane (oil phase), P135 (hydrophobic emulsifier), and IST-LC001 (liquid crystal emulsifier). The ideal emulsion structure could thus be obtained. The formula was used to encapsulate active substances. Resveratrol was used as the target molecule for sustained-release experiment. The results of dialysis experiments in vitro showed that the P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion had a remarkable slow-release performance. The release ratio of target molecule was up to 83% after 10 h. When shikonin was used as the target molecule, it was proved that the P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion could mask the color of the target molecule. Compared with traditional emulsion, the color of P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion was lighter. Rheological measurement showed that the viscosity of the emulsion decreased with the increase of shear stress, indicative of positive thixotropy. Within the investigated range, the storage modulus of the emulsion was always higher than that of loss modulus, exhibiting elastic properties. The internal structure of the emulsion was stable and the emulsion could bring good skin feel to skin care products. The experimental results showed that, the P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion could not only solve the problems in application of insoluble functional ingredients in formulations, but also effectively deliver these active substances and achieve slow-release. The emulsion could also mask the color of introduced ingredients and improve the skin feel of products. The P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion has wide application value in the fields of medicine, food, cosmetics, etc.

Key words: multiple emulsion, lamellar liquid crystal emulsion, polyol, slow release

CLC Number: 

  • O648.23