神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体的制备及在化妆品中的应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.11.008

Abstract

Abstract:

The liposome with high content （10%） of ceramide Ⅱ was prepared by the homogenization technique. A large number of Maltese Cross liquid crystal structures which were uniform in particle size were observed under a polarizing microscope. The ceramide Ⅱ liposomes were smooth, soft and water-soluble, with suitable viscosity and good stability. It could be used in cosmetics by simply stirring, which solved the problems of poor water solubility and easy crystallization and precipitation for ceramide. Human-skin test results showed that the TEWLvalue （transepidermal water loss） of the subjects could recover 85% with the cream containing 1% ceramide Ⅱ liposome （which contained 10% ceramide Ⅱ） in two hours, and the skin moisture content could be increased by 39.58% in an hour, which indicated that it had good repairing ability for skin barrier.

Key words: ceramide Ⅱ, liposome, liquid crystal, cosmetics

CLC Number:

TQ658

WANG Li,LIU Rui-xue,LENG Qun-ying,BI Fan-xing. Preparation of ceramide II liposome and its application in cosmetics[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(11): 742-747.

Figures/Tables 8

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References 21

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类别	原料名称	w/%
A相	1,3丙二醇	6
	尿囊素	0.2
	EDTA二钠	0.05
	透明质酸钠	0.02
	黄原胶	0.15
	SEPINOV EMT 10	0.4
	丙烯酸（酯）类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物	0.15
	水	至100
B相	鲸蜡硬脂醇	0.5
	氢化棕榈仁油	3
	GTCC	1
	甘油硬脂酸酯	1
	MONTANOV 68	1
	TEGO CARE 165	1.5
	聚二甲基硅氧烷	3.5
C相	SIMULGEL NS	1.2
D相	三乙醇胺	0.15
E相	1,3丙二醇	4
	氯苯甘醚	0.2
	PAF E91	0.6
F相	甘草酸二钾	0.1
F相	水	2
G相	10%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体	X
G相	水	10

反应程度	皮肤不良反应	分级
-	阴性反应	0
±	可疑反应,仅有微弱红斑	1
+	弱阳性反应（红斑反应）;红斑、浸润、水肿、可有丘疹	2
++	强阳性反应（疱疹反应）;红斑、浸润、水肿、丘疹、疱疹;反应可超出受试区	3
+++	极强阳性反应（融合性疱疹反应）;明显红斑、严重浸润、水肿、融合性疱疹;反应超出受试区	4

样品	使用前水分含量/%	使用前水分含量的标准差	1 h后水分含量/%	1 h后水分含量的标准差	水分含量增长率/%
空白对照组	28.4	1.01	29.3	1.06	3.17
保湿修复乳霜A	29.2	0.98	33.8	1.07	15.75
保湿修复乳霜B	28.8	1.00	40.2	0.96	39.58
保湿修复乳霜C	28.9	1.08	45.9	1.05	58.82
保湿修复乳霜D	28.9	1.09	46.8	1.05	61.94
空白脂质体	28.7	1.11	33.2	1.18	15.68
1%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体	28.5	1.01	33.5	1.10	17.54
10%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体	28.6	1.00	33.3	1.05	16.43

样品	TEWL值的标准差
样品	0 h	1 h	2 h	3 h	4 h	5 h	6 h
空白对照组	1.01	1.05	1.02	1.08	1.03	1.00	1.05
保湿修复乳霜A	1.02	0.98	0.99	1.03	1.01	1.03	1.02
保湿修复乳霜B	1.06	1.01	0.98	0.99	1.03	1.01	1.04
保湿修复乳霜C	1.07	1.10	1.09	1.07	1.09	1.07	1.05
保湿修复乳霜D	1.05	1.06	1.05	1.07	1.05	1.07	1.05
空白脂质体	1.02	1.12	1.15	1.16	1.18	1.19	1.14
1%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体	1.03	1.09	1.08	1.07	1.08	1.03	1.01
10%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体	1.03	1.06	1.05	1.07	1.02	1.09	1.08

Preparation of ceramide II liposome and its application in cosmetics

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