当期目录

2017年, 第47卷, 第2期　刊出日期：2017-02-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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14-3(OH)-14(2Cl)/Brij-30混合水溶液的相图及流变行为 Phase diagram and rheological behaviors of 14-3(OH)-14(2Cl)/Brij-30 blend aqueous solution 姚美焕, 魏西莲 2017 (2):  61-66.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.001 摘要 ( 270 )   PDF(1091KB) ( 390 )   采用重量法在25 ℃时绘制了双子阳离子表面活性剂2-羟亚丙基-1,3-双(二甲基十四烷基氯化铵)(14-3(OH)-14(2Cl))/非离子表面活性剂月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚(Brij-30)/水三元体系的相图。通过目测并结合偏光显微镜研究了相图中几个不同的相区。用稳态和动态剪切流变方法得到了单纯双子阳离子表面活性剂及几个相区内不同聚集体的流变特性。根据测定的流变参数分析和判断相区内聚集体的流体行为及结构特征。结果表明,黏弹性蠕虫状胶束的流变行为遵循Maxwell模型,具有单一松弛时间。 A ternary phase diagram of a blend system composed of a cationic Gemini surfactant 2-hydroxypropylidene-1,3-bis(myristyldimethylammonium chloride) (herein refers to as 14-3(OH)-14(2Cl)),a nonionic surfactant polyoxyethylene lauryl ether (herein refers to as Brij-30) and H2O was worked out by using weighing method at 25 ℃.Several different phase regions in the phase diagram were studied by visual observation with the help of a polarizing microscope.The rheological properties of aqueous solutions of single 14-3(OH)-14(2Cl) and separate aggregations in several phase regions were obtained by steady and dynamic shear rheometry.Based upon the rheological parameters determined,the fluid behavior and structural characteristics in the phase regions were judged and analyzed.Results showed that rheological behavior of viscoelastic wormlike micelles follows Maxwell model with a single stress relaxation time period. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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离子液体表面活性剂的合成与应用(Ⅱ) ——离子液体表面活性剂的合成 Synthesis and application of ionic liquid surfactants (Ⅱ)Synthesis 王军, 惠萌萌, 杨许召, 邹文苑, 徐清杰 2017 (2):  67-72.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.002 摘要 ( 223 )   PDF(905KB) ( 378 )   按照离子液体表面活性剂的种类,分别介绍了不同类型离子液体表面活性剂的合成方法。阳离子型离子液体表面活性剂可以采用直接季铵化法、复分解法和离子交换法合成;阴离子型离子液体表面活性剂是采用传统阴离子表面活性剂与离子液体在有机溶剂或水/有机溶剂中复分解反应完成的;两性离子液体表面活性剂通常采用直接季铵化法合成;双子和Bola型离子液体表面活性剂与传统双子和Bola型表面活性剂的合成方法相似;微波和超声等新的辅助合成方法将明显促进离子液体表面活性剂的合成。 Methods for synthesis of separate kinds of ionic liquid surfactants (ILSs) were reviewed according to their classification.For synthesis of cationic ILSs,there are three methods,i.e.direct quaternarization,metathetical reaction and ionic exchange reaction.Synthesis of anionic ILSs is accomplished by metathetical reaction in organic solvent or blend of organic solvent and water with traditional anionic surfactants and ionic liquids as starting materials.Amphoteric ILSs are generally synthesized by direct quaternarization.For Gemini and Bola ILSs,the synthesis methods are similar to that for traditional Gemini and Bola surfactants.Adoption of new reaction assisting methods,such as microwave and ultrasonic wave will obviously promote the synthesis of ILSs. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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一种非离子表面活性剂合成工艺的研究 Synthesis of a kind of nonionic surfactant with a modified catalyst 张金昌, 赵宏斌, 孟岩, 富扬, 刘兆滨, 朱建民 2017 (2):  73-76.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.003 摘要 ( 337 )   PDF(724KB) ( 404 )   以硝酸镁晶体和硝酸铝晶体为原料,在弱碱性条件下,通过共沉淀法合成出具有水滑石类结构的含Mg-Al基复合物酸/碱双活性位催化剂。该催化剂经过花生酸改性后,用XRD、NH3-TPD和CO2-TPD测试表征发现,改性后的催化剂相比未改性的在性能方面有明显提高。通过固定床反应器对醋酸丁酯的乙氧基化催化工艺进行了研究,结果表明自制Mg-Al基复合物酸/碱双活性位催化剂经过花生酸改性后反应活性明显提高,产物乙二醇丁醚醋酸酯1-EBAC和2-EBAC含量显著增大,产品分布变窄。 A catalyst containing Mg-Al composite with both acidic and basic activities and structure similar to that of hydrotalcite was prepared by co-precipitation method under weak alkaline condition using magnesium nitrate crystal and aluminum nitrate crystal as starting materials.The prepared catalyst,after modified with arachidic acid was tested and characterized by X-ray diffraction (XRD),NH3-temperature programmed desorption (NH3-TPD) and CO2-TPD.Then the modified catalyst was applied in ethoxylation of butyl acetate with a fixed bed reactor.Results showed that the prepared and modified catalyst displays conspicuous enhancement of activity for the conversion.The content of targeted products,ethylene glycol butyl ether acetate 1-EBAC and 2-EBAC is higher as well as their carbon number distribution is narrower. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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粘胶纤维用变性剂的组成分析与应用性能研究 Composition analysis and application performance of denaturant for viscose fiber 张林雅 2017 (2):  77-81.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.004 摘要 ( 279 )   PDF(891KB) ( 394 )   采用柱层析研究了粘胶纤维用变性剂MDF中的组分,分析了其化学组成,确定了以聚乙二醇、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚和脂肪胺聚氧乙烯醚为主要组分的变性剂。制备了粘胶纤维用自制变性剂,测定并分析了物性指标,其润湿渗透性可达5.185 s,表面张力达到27.61 mN/m,挥发损失为0.004。自制变性剂应用于粘胶纤维生产中,具有很好的产品性能,成形后粘胶纤维的干、湿断裂强度分别为3.59和2.18 cN/dtex,干、湿断裂伸长分别为14.10%和14.33%,纤维湿模量(×20)可达到14.60 cN/dtex。 The composition of denaturant MDF for viscose fiber were analyzed using column chromatography.Its main chemical components were identified as polyethylene glycol,fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether and aliphatic amine polyoxyethylene ether.Then a self-made denaturant for viscose fiber was prepared,and its physical indices were measured and analyzed.Results showed that its wetting power achieves 5.185 s,its surface tension achieves 27.61 mN/m and its volatilization loss is 0.004.The self-made denaturant was applied in the production of viscose fiber,and the viscose fiber produced shows good properties.Its dry and wet fracture strength achieves 3.59 and 2.18 cN/dtex respectively,dry and wet elongation at fracture achieves 14.10% and 14.33% respectively.The fiber wet modulus (×20) achieves 14.60 cN/dtex. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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聚天冬氨酸钠在护肤品中的应用 Application of sodium polyaspartate in skin care products 沈翠云, 梁超群, 喻丹丹, 曹辉 2017 (2):  82-86.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.005 摘要 ( 747 )   PDF(745KB) ( 423 )   利用皮肤水分测试仪和皮肤水分流失测试仪,考察了添加低、高分子量及不同质量分数聚天冬氨酸钠(PASP)的保湿化妆品作用于人体皮肤后的水分含量和经表皮水分散失情况。结果表明,高分子量PASP对皮肤的保湿效果较好、锁水效果显著,高分子量PASP在质量分数为0.8%时,使皮肤水分含量的增长率达到0.5%以上,对皮肤的保湿效果与透明质酸相当。使用皮肤弹性测试仪对新鲜猪皮进行了体外透皮实验,测试了使用PASP前后猪皮弹性状况的变化,表明PASP具有提高皮肤弹性的效果。PASP代替目前广泛使用的透明质酸作为化妆品中的保湿剂具有良好的发展前景。 Adopting skin moisture testing instrument and epidermal moisture loss testing instrument,situation with respect to moisture content in human skin as well as epidermal moisture loss after separate use of moisturizing cosmetics containing sodium polyaspartate (PASP) with lower and higher molecular weight as well as different mass fractions were examined.Results showed that PASP with higher molecular weight displays better moisturizing effect on the skin,and its water retention effect is conspicuous.When the content of higher molecular weight PASP in the cosmetics achieves 0.8%,the skin moisture content may increase by more than 0.5%,and its skin moisturizing effect may equivalent to that of hyaluronic acid.Further,in order to examine the elasticity change capacity of PASP,in-vitro water dipping test was conducted adopting skin elasticity testing instrument with pig skin as the substrate.Result indicated that PASP can improve skin elasticity.All the results showed that PASP has good prospects for development in cosmetic industry. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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当归净油抗衰老及抗炎祛痘功效的体外实验研究 In vitro test for examination of anti-senility and anti-inflammatory acne effects of absolute oil from Angelica sinensis (Oliv.) Diels 王玥, 于海园, 施雁勤, 潘仙华, 卢艳花, 曹平 2017 (2):  87-89.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.006 摘要 ( 333 )   PDF(855KB) ( 376 )   通过人真皮成纤维细胞(HDF-a)模型,考察了当归净油对细胞分泌Ⅰ型胶原蛋白(Col-Ⅰ)的影响。结果表明,当归净油在最大安全质量浓度25 mg/L时,能有效增加HDF-a细胞分泌Col-Ⅰ达33.5%。利用痤疮丙酸杆菌刺激人急性单核细胞THP-1,建立了特异性痤疮炎症细胞模型,考察当归净油对细胞分泌炎症因子人白细胞介素1β (IL-1β)的影响。结果表明,当归净油最大安全质量浓度为12.5 mg/L,此时对痤疮丙酸杆菌诱导的THP-1细胞炎症因子IL-1β 分泌抑制率高达94.51%,当质量浓度减半为6.25 mg/L时,抑制率为64.34%。当归净油作为一种芳香性中草药,有望成为抗衰老及抗炎祛痘的个人护理天然原料,在化妆品中得到进一步开发和利用。 Via a model of human dermal fibroblasts-adult (HDF-a),effects of Angelica sinensis absolute oil (ASO) on the secretion of collagen type Ⅰ (Col-Ⅰ) by the HDF-a cells were examined.Results showed that when the ASO is at its maximum safety mass concentration for the HDF-a cells 25 mg/L,the secretion of Col-Ⅰ in HDF-a cells can be effectively increased by 33.5%.In addition,an inflammatory acne model was established by stimulating human acute mononuclear cells THP-1 cells with Propionibacterium acnes (P.acnes).Results showed that when ASO is at its maximum safety mass concentration for the THP-1 cells 12.5 mg/L,the ASO can inhibit the release of inflammatory cytokines IL-1β from P.acnes treated THP-1 cells by 94.51%.When the mass concentration is halved to 6.25 mg/L,the ASO still can significantly inhibit IL-1β secretion by 64.34%.Hence,ASO is a natural plant perfume raw material that displays anti-senility and anti-inflammatory acne effects in personal care activities and is expected to be further developed and applied in cosmetics. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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皮肤致敏测试动物替代方法DPRA的建立和应用 Establishment and application of non-animal test method for skin sensitization (DPRA) 王滢, 吴越 2017 (2):  90-95.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.007 摘要 ( 495 )   PDF(826KB) ( 401 )   皮肤致敏是化妆品原料安全性评估中的一项重要内容。按照ECVAM (European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods)的标准,通过对16个标准品进行检测,成功建立了DPRA (Direct Peptide Reaction Assay,直接肽链反应分析)实验方法。其检测结果的敏感性,特异性,准确性,S/NS的判定以及4 Class分别为81.82%,100%,77.8%,100%和94.7%。目前该方法已成功运用在实际工作中,并检测出多款具有引起皮肤致敏潜在能力的化妆品原料。 The identification of the skin sensitization potential is an important component of the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.A DPRA (Direct Peptide Reaction Assay) test method according to the specifications of ECVAM (European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods) was established through detection of 16 kinds of standard cosmetic ingredient.Results showed that the established DPRA test method meets the specifications of ECVAM and its sensitivity,specificity and accuracy achieves 81.82%,100%,77.8% respectively.Meanwhile,for the laboratory reproducibility,the accuracy for S/NS and 4 Class classifications achieves 100% and 94.7% respectively.Now,the method has been applied in practice and several kinds of material used for formulating cosmetic products have been detected showing skin sensitization potential. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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纳米银在地下水环境中的转化过程研究 Transformation process of silver nanoparticles in underground-water environment 王晨, 杨新瑶, 袁雪梅, 杨悦锁 2017 (2):  96-103.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.008 摘要 ( 221 )   PDF(7681KB) ( 89 )   为探究可作为化妆品添加剂的纳米银(AgNPs)在进入地下水环境中的转化行为,采用仪器分析手段,从测定粒径、zeta电位、吸光度、SEM图和EDX能谱等几方面对聚乙烯吡咯烷酮-纳米银(PVP-AgNPs)在沈阳附近地区地下水体系中的转化过程进行了考察。实验结果表明:PVP-AgNPs加入到地下水样中后粒径变化明显,zeta电位值位于-12～-4 mV 之间,说明PVP-AgNPs处于快速聚凝状态,吸光度不变但吸收峰峰值不断降低证明PVP-AgNPs浓度逐渐降低,SEM图与EDX能谱结果显示PVP-AgNPs加入到地下水样中后会发生聚凝沉降,并在此过程中可以与其他离子结合形成共沉淀。此外,在溶解氧高,pH＜7的情况下,PVP-AgNPs先溶解释放出银离子从而导致PVP-AgNPs沉降的速度降低。 In order to explore the transformation behavior of entering of silver nanoparticles (AgNPs),which can be used as a cosmetic additive,into underground-water environment,instrumental analysis including determination of particle size,zeta potential and light absorbance as well as SEM image and EDX spectrum was adopted for investigation of polyvinylpyrrolidone coated AgNPs (PVP-AgNPs) transformation process entering into the underground-water system in an area nearby Shenyang city.The experimental results showed that after the addition of PVP-AgNPs into the underground-water samples,its particle size changes obviously,and zeta potential value locates between -12 and -4 mV;it indicates that the PVP-AgNPs is in a rapid coagulation state.The light absorbance remains unchanged,but the absorption peak decreases continuously,such phenomenon indicates that the concentration of PVP-AgNPs decreases gradually.The SEM images and EDX spectra indicate that addition of PVP-AgNPs into the underground-water will cause coagulation sedimentation and this process can be combined with other ions to form co-precipitation.In addition,in the case of highly dissolved oxygen state and pH<7,PVP-AgNPs will dissolve and release silver ions first,and result in the decrease of PVP-AgNPs settling speed. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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胎脂成分与功效及仿生应用展望 Composition and functions of vernix caseosa as well as its potential bionic applications 郑依, 孟宏, 董银卯 2017 (2):  104-108.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.009 摘要 ( 772 )   PDF(726KB) ( 572 )   简述了胎脂的组成和对皮肤的保护作用,综述了国内外学者对天然胎脂的研究现状,总结了天然胎脂对胎儿皮肤的保湿、抗菌抗感染、pH调节和表皮屏障维护功能及作用机理,阐述了胎脂对保护胎儿皮肤并保障胎儿皮肤的健康生长发育具有有益作用,提出了植物仿生胎脂的概念并对其在第4代化妆品——仿生化妆品中应用的可能性进行了展望。 Composition and functions of vernix caseosa (VC) were briefed.Status of research work results with respect to VC around the world were reviewed.Functions and action mechanism of the VC,such as skin moisturization,anti-bacterial infection,pH adjustment and epidermal barrier reparation were summarized.Benificial functions for protecting fetus skin from infection and enhancing healthy development of fetus skin were described.The concept of bionic VC from plants and the possibility of them to be applied in the fourth generation of cosmetics—bionic cosmetics were prospected. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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铁皮石斛的化学成分及其在化妆品中的开发利用 Chemical compositions of Dendrobium candidum and their development of applications in cosmetics 李青, 谢翠翠, 李翔, 王翔宇 2017 (2):  109-113.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.010 摘要 ( 457 )   PDF(719KB) ( 651 )   综述了铁皮石斛中的几种主要化学成分,包括多糖、黄酮类、酚类、维生素和氨基酸等,阐述了各类成分在美容护肤方面的功效,同时介绍了铁皮石斛在化妆品中的应用现状,并以此为基础展望了铁皮石斛在化妆品行业中的广阔的应用前景。 Several kinds of main chemical constituent in Dendrobium candidum,including polysaccharides,flavonoids,phenols,vitamins,amino acids and so on,were summarized,and efficacies of each component in the aspect of skin-caring and cosmetology were described.Furthermore,current situation of applications of Dendrobium candidum in cosmetics was discussed,and on this basis,its broad application prospect in cosmetic preparation was looked ahead for. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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日化香精中甲醛含量的超高效液相色谱分析 Determination of formaldehyde in fragrance for household and personal products by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography 康维君, 庄伟强, 黄健, 茅富燕, 乐之歆, 胡坪 2017 (2):  114-117.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.011 摘要 ( 344 )   PDF(708KB) ( 338 )   建立了一种测定日化香精中甲醛含量的超高效液相色谱(UPLC)分析方法。香精中的甲醛以2,4-二硝基苯肼作为衍生化试剂进行反应后,直接用UPLC进行分析。采用Agilent ZORBAX Eclipse Plus C18色谱柱(2.1 mm×100 mm,1.8 μm)分离;以水-乙腈溶液(体积比为60∶40)为流动相进行等梯度洗脱,流速为0.3 mL/min;检测波长为352 nm,外标法定量。甲醛在0.1~10 mg/L范围内具有良好的线性,检出限为0.03 mg/L,加标回收率为96.3%~104.1%,RSD为0.2%~1.4% (n=3)。将该方法应用于10批日化香精中甲醛含量的测定,结果检出5批日化香精中含有甲醛,但其含量远低于《化妆品卫生规范》中甲醛的使用限量。 An ultra-high performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) method was established for determination of formaldehyde in fragrance for household and personal products.After derived with 2,4-dinitrophenyl hydrazine (DNPH),the formaldehyde in the fragrance was determined by UPLC.The separation was performed on an Agilent ZORBAX Eclipse Plus C18 column (2.1 mm×100 mm,1.8 μm).The mobile phase was consisted of acetonitrile and water (volume ratio of 60∶40) with a flow rate of 0.3 mL/min.The wavelength of UV detector was set at 352 nm.A good linearity of formaldehyde in the range of 0.1~10 mg/L is obtained and the detection limit is about 0.03 mg/L.The spiked recoveries are ranged within 96.3%~104.1%,with relative standard deviations of 0.2%~1.4% (n=3).10 batches of fragrance for household and personal products were determined using the established method and five batches are found containing formaldehyde.However,the content of formaldehyde in the samples is much lower than the limit specified by Hygienic Standard for Cosmetics. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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β-熊果苷对GC-MS检测化妆品中氢醌的影响 Influence of β-arbutin on analysis result of hydroquinone in cosmetics by GC-MS 蒋珍娟, 陈志涛 2017 (2):  118-120.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.012 摘要 ( 260 )   PDF(684KB) ( 409 )   采用气相色谱-质谱联用(GC-MS)法对含有β-熊果苷的化妆品进行检测,考察β-熊果苷对氢醌测定的影响。结果表明,β-熊果苷对热不稳定,在GC-MS的检测条件下会高温分解并释放出氢醌,且热分解的程度随进样口温度的升高而显著增强。用GC-MS法检测含β-熊果苷的化妆品时会得到氢醌含量偏高或呈假阳性的结果,由此可知采用GC-MS法对HPLC-DAD法检测含β-熊果苷的化妆品为阳性的结果进行确认是不适合的。 Influence of β-arbutin on the determination of hydroquinone containing in cosmetics by GC-MS was studied.Results showed that β-arbutin is unstable at high temperature,and will decompose and release out hydroquinone under the GC-MS detection conditions.The extent of the thermal decomposition will be obviously enhanced with the increase of temperature at sample inlet of the GC-MS system.Consequently,the detection result of cosmetics containing β-arbutin by GC-MS method will display a higher data for hydroquinone content than the actual result or a false positive test result of hydroquinone.Therefore,GC-MS method is not suitable to be adopted to confirm the positive result for hydroquinone content in cosmetics formulated with β-arbutin which has been assayed by HPLC-DAD. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标