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日用化学工业(中英文) ›› 2023, Vol. 53 ›› Issue (11): 1315-1324.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.011

• 专论与综述 • 上一篇    下一篇

金属矿物离子的皮肤生物学效应及其在化妆品领域的应用

马晓瑜*(),严晓娟,鲍熹珺   

  1. 星智豫美(上海)生物科技有限公司,上海 200233
  • 收稿日期:2022-10-27 修回日期:2023-10-26 出版日期:2023-11-22 发布日期:2023-11-21

Metal ions: the biological effects on skin and the application in cosmetics

Ma Xiaoyu*(),Yan Xiaojuan,Bao Xijun   

  1. Fosun Cosmetics (ShangHai) Bio-Technology Co., Ltd., Shanghai 200233, China
  • Received:2022-10-27 Revised:2023-10-26 Online:2023-11-22 Published:2023-11-21
  • Contact: *Tel.: +86-13817107438, E-mail: 429686213@qq.com.

摘要:

皮肤组织中富含金属矿物离子。由于组织的复杂性,金属矿物离子分别以游离态和结合态两种方式存在于皮肤中,并参与到屏障稳态维持、伤口愈合、氧化还原平衡等多种生物过程中。鉴于其多靶点、多通路的独特作用效果,金属矿物离子被广泛应用于皮肤护理中,可以带来皮肤修护、舒缓、抗皱、紧致、美白等诸多作用效果。文章综述了钙、镁、钾、锌、铜、锶等金属矿物离子对皮肤的生物学作用及其在化妆品中的应用。分别介绍了皮肤中的常见金属矿物离子及其浓度与分布、常见离子的皮肤学作用效果及其作用机理、化妆品原料中所涉及到的金属矿物离子成分、以及目前金属矿物离子成分在护肤产品应用中的局限与挑战,为未来的配方功效设计和功能活性物质的复配提供思路。

关键词: 金属矿物离子, 屏障修护, 皮肤稳态, 伤口愈合, 炎症

Abstract:

Skin tissues are rich in metal ions. Due to the complexity of skin structure, these ions exist in both free and bound forms. Metal ions have been involved in many biological processes, such as maintaining barrier homeostasis, stimulating wound healing, and balancing redox state. Given their unique characteristics of multi-targets and multi-pathways, metal ions are widely used in skincare applications, exhibiting the functions of promoting skin repairing, soothing, wrinkle reduction, tightening, whitening, etc. Herein, the biological effects and cosmetic applications of metal ions, including calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, strontium and copper, were systematically reviewed. The concentration and distribution of common metal ions in skin were summarized. The dermatologic effects and mechanisms were also concluded. Calcium, magnesium and potassium ions were relatively abundant in skin, and they could play important roles in stimulating wound healing, maintaining integrity of skin barrier, and strengthening the barrier. For those ions with trace amount, such as zinc, strontium, copper, iron and manganese, they could exert specific skin functions including inflammation inhibition, reduction of skin sensitivity, or modulation of redox system. In addition, the metal ion-related active ingredients in cosmetic raw materials were summarized and their skin functions were reviewed. Finally, the current limits and challenges for the use of metal ions in skin care products were proposed. This review could shed new light on the design of functional formulas and novel active components.

Key words: metal ion, barrier repair, skin homeostasis, wound healing, inflammation

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658