Q弹粉底霜感官特性与其质构参数相关性的研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.007

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

对5款增稠剂含量不同的Q弹粉底霜进行了质构测试分析,并对其肤感进行了测试。质构仪结果表明,随着增稠剂含量的增加,产品的硬度不断增大,而弹性、黏性、内聚性等特征呈现先增大后减小的趋势。感官测试结果表明,产品涂抹时肤感的柔软性与质构硬度以及内聚性有较强的相关性,相关系数分别为0.909和0.745。膏霜的涂抹性与质构硬度具有显著负相关性,相关系数为-0.512。感官弹性参数与质构参数具有较强的相关性,其相关系数为0.774,且质构仪的其他各项参数均与感官测试有较好的相关性。这项研究对化妆品研发中,用仪器分析取代人体感官测试是很有意义的可行性尝试。

关键词: Q弹粉底霜, 质构仪, 肤感评价

Abstract:

The textural and sensory analyses of five products of elastic foundation creams with different thickener content were carried out. The results obtained by a texture analyzer showed that, with the increase of thickener content, the hardness of the product increased gradually, while the springiness, adhesiveness, cohesiveness and other parameters were first increased and then decreased. The sensory results showed that the skin softness during the application of the product had a strong correlation with hardness and cohesiveness, and the correlation coefficients were 0.909 and 0.745, respectively. The spreadability of the foundation cream had significantly negative correlation with the textural hardness, with a correlation coefficient of -0.512. The elasticity （a sensory parameter） had a strong correlation with the springiness （a textural parameter）, and the correlation coefficient was 0.774. The results showed that the parameters obtained by the texture analyzer had good correlation with the sensory tests. The study proved that it had potential to use instruments to predict sensory test results for cosmetic products.

Key words: elastic foundation cream, texture analyzer, sensory evaluation

中图分类号:

TQ658

林梦雅,于卫红. Q弹粉底霜感官特性与其质构参数相关性的研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(3): 208-213.

LIN Meng-ya,YU Wei-hong. Study of the correlations between the sensory characteristics of elastic foundation creams and their textural parameters[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(3): 208-213.

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参考文献 10

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	成分（INCI名）	含量/%
水相	TR-2（丙烯酸（酯）类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物）	0.4~0.9
	1, 2-戊二醇	2
	甘油	5
	1, 3-丁二醇	4
油相	甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯	2
	环五聚二甲基硅氧烷	4
	季戊四醇四（乙基己酸）酯	2
	氢化聚异丁烯	2
	云母/聚二甲基硅氧烷	1
	二氧化钛/氧化铁/三异硬脂酸异丙氧钛盐/聚二甲基硅氧烷/硅石	8
	氨甲基丙醇/水	0.3~0.5
	香精	0.1
	苯氧乙醇	0.5
	水	补充至100

评价阶段	感官评价词汇	具体定义描述	评分范围
使用前	挑起性	蘸取膏体的难易程度	1~10分
	硬度	蘸取适量膏体时,膏体表面硬度	1~10分
	弹性	蘸取膏体时的弹性	1~10分
	黏腻感	手指与料体间的粘合程度	1~10分
使用时	涂抹性	膏体涂抹开时的难易程度	1~10分

样品	TR2-0.4	TR2-0.6	TR2-0.7	TR2-0.8	TR2-0.9	显著性
质构弹性/mm	9.15	9.44	9.81	9.45	9.36	<0.01
质构硬度/g	14.27	28.80	75.27	104.80	105.90	<0.01
质构黏性/mJ	0.37	1.10	0.76	0.74	0.67	<0.01
质构内聚性	0.75	0.79	0.90	0.89	0.88	<0.01

感官评价词汇	样品					显著性
感官评价词汇	TR2-0.4	TR2-0.6	TR2-0.7	TR2-0.8	TR2-0.9	显著性
挑起性	6.43^b	4.92^c	5.00^c	6.33^b	7.75^a	<0.01
硬度	2.71^c	2.91^c	5.00^b	7.41^a	7.50^a	<0.01
使用前弹性	3.16^c	3.41^b	5.00^a	3.67^b	2.67^c	<0.01
黏感	3.57^b	6.50^a	5.00^b	5.58^abc	5.75^abc	<0.01
涂抹性	6.28^ab	7.08^a	5.00^b	4.83^bc	4.92^bc	<0.01

参数	挑起性	硬度	使用前弹性	黏感	涂抹性
质构硬度	0.365^**	0.909^**	0.021	0.108	-0.512^**
质构弹性	-0.383^**	0.045	0.774^**	0.082	-0.191
质构黏性	-0.388^**	-0.269^*	0.230	0.446^**	0.267^*
质构内聚性	0.132	0.745^**	0.361^**	0.087	-0.506^**