化妆品底妆体外测试评价方法建立

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.008

Abstract

Abstract:

This study aims to establish the methods of evaluating cosmetic foundation in vitro from four dimensions: concealment, dullness, migration resistance as well as the ability of water resistance, sweat resistance and sebum resistance. The automatic film coating machine was used to evenly coat the samples in the first steps. The concealment and dullness sections were evaluated by MetaVue VS3200 spectrophotometer, which measured the hiding rate of the samples and the color characterization values of the foundation （ΔL, Δa, Δb）. The coverage rate of sample E1 is 90.98 cr, which is the highest coverage. The ΔL value of sample D2 has the largest change of -2.73 as well as the highest dullness. Combined with the result of consumer testing for further verification, the overall score results are consistent with in vitro test results. Also, the ability of migration resistance was determined and compared by the image analysis of software Image-Pro Plus 6.0 through the testing of the amount of rubbed powder. Moreover, through the contact angle measuring device, the capabilities of water, sweat, and sebum resistance of the foundation samples could be compared based on the measurement of the contact angles of deionized water, artificial sweat, and artificial sebum on the sample surface. The contact angles of sample B1 and D2 with deionized water and artificial sweat are greater than 90° for removal of lipophilicity. The contact angles of all samples are less than 90° for removal of lipophilicity, among which sample E1 and sample F are relatively lower in removal of lipophilicity, and the contact angles are respectively 40.8° and 40.0°. The results of water resistance, sweat and sebum tested in this study are generally consistent with the test results based on existing literature. The results show that four methodologies of scientific measurement with instruments are feasible and valid, and they help develop the convenience and scientific rigor of in vitro evaluation.

Key words: in vitro testing, coverage, dullness, anti-migration

CLC Number:

TQ658

Keying Xiao,Jiajing Cai,Huimin Zi,Feifei Wang. Establishment of an in vitro test and evaluation method for cosmetic foundation[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(8): 939-946.

Figures/Tables 13

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Tab. 1

Tab. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Tab. 3

Tab. 4

Tab. 5

Tab. 6

Fig. 7

References 15

[1]	Gerstell E, Marchessou S, Schmidt J, et al. How COVID-19 is changing the world of beauty[R]. McKinsey & Company, 2020 (8) : 3-4.
[2]	Huang Weixin, Lin Siyuan, Wang Jianing. Marketing channel innovation in the beauty industry in the post-epidemic era-estee lauder brand as an example[M]. Singapore: Springer Nature Singapore, 2023: 499-508.
[3]	Gong Shuhui. Trends of China’s makeup market in the post-epidemic Era[J]. China Cosmetics, 2020 (7) : 20-24.
[4]	Jiangsu Tefeng New Material Technology Co., Ltd. A test method for the hiding power of white pigments in plastics: CN107421914A[P]. 2017-12-01.
[5]	Huang Jing, Wang Bingjie, Cai Zhuo, et al. Study on the effects of powders on the anti-dullness and persistence of foundations[J]. Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 45 (12) : 20-23.
[6]	Wang Ben, Nian Jingyan, Tie Lu, et al. Theoretical progress in designs of stable superhydrophobic surfaces[J]. Acta Physica Sinica, 2013, 62 (14) : 370-384.
[7]	Liu Meng, Chai Yihao. Formulation development of long lasting liquid foundation[J]. Scientific and Technologic Innovation, 2022 (33) : 164-167.
[8]	Qian Shumin, Jiang Ligang, Bi Yongxian, et al. An in-vitro test method for determining sweat-resistant effect of the foundations[J]. Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics, 2019, 4 (2) : 53-55.
[9]	Mo Di. Ask Mo Di about skin care[M]. Beijing: Tsinghua University Press, 2018: 39-40.
[10]	Zhang Cui. BB cream and CC cream highlight the charm of nude makeup[J]. Chinese Cosmetics, 2015 (4) : 22-25.
[11]	Savary G, Gilbert L, Grisel M, et al. Instrumental and sensory methodologies to characterize the residual film of topical products applied to skin[J]. Skin Research and Technology, 2019, 25 (4) : 415-423. doi: 10.1111/srt.12667 pmid: 30767275
[12]	Uchida H, Vaidyanathan J, Viswanadhan T, et al. Color stability of dental composites as a function of shade[J]. The Journal of Prosthetic Dentistry, 1998, 79 (4) : 372-377.
[13]	Sarkar D K, Farzaneh M. Superhydrophobic coatings with reduced ice adhesion[J]. Journal of Adhesion Science and Technology, 2009, 23 (9) : 1215-1237.
[14]	Wang Shutao, Jiang Lei. Definition of superhydrophobic states[J]. Advanced Materials, 2007, 19 (21) : 3423-3424.
[15]	Chen Yuan, Mo Siqi, Fang Shiqi. Research on the efficacy evaluation method of cosmetic base makeup products[J]. Standard and Quality of Light Industry, 2022 (6) : 113-115.

差异源	SS	df	MS	p value	F crit
组间	1 125.639	4	281.410	4.21×10^-9	3.478
组内	16.914	10	1.691
总计	1 142.552	14

样品	ΔL	Δa	Δb
F	-2.48	1.90	-1.77
D2	-2.73	1.93	1.36
E1	-1.64	1.88	-0.59
E2	0.32	0.71	0.39
B1	0.51	0.75	0.17

差异源	SS	df	MS	p value	F crit
组间	179.766	4	44.941	1.35×10^-11	2.436
组内	362.069	140	2.586
总计	541.835	144

Establishment of an in vitro test and evaluation method for cosmetic foundation

RichHTML

PDF (PC)

Like

Knowledge

Abstract

Cite this article

share this article

Figures/Tables 13

References 15

Related Articles 15

Metrics

Comments

Recommended 0

[1]	Xiaotong Sun,Yejie Zhou,Yatong Duan,Yadi Liu,Tingyu Zhang,Jinshi Fan. Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials （Ⅷ）High-viscosity and versatile natural galactomannan: guar gum [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(8): 895-902.
[2]	Ting Yang,Huawen Li,Xun Xu,Honghui Guo,Tangbin Zou,Enqin Xia. The anti-aging potential of peptides from fermented Nannochloropsis sp. [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(8): 921-929.
[3]	Wei Qian,Bin Yang,Bo Shao,Li Wan,Jun Zhou. Ultrasound-assisted enzymatic degradation to obtain pectin derivatives from Citrus aurantium L. and its antioxidant properties [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(8): 947-955.
[4]	Minjia Yuan,Qi Li,Cuicui Zhu,Hang Tie. Comparation of azelaic acid and chitosan encapsulated-azelaic acid complex in skin absorption efficiency and anti-inflammatory capability [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(8): 956-965.
[5]	Hong Jiang,Shanshan Jiang,Chunying Yuan,Suzhen Yang,Tingting Han,Yan Li. Analysis of skin physiological parameters and microbial community characteristics of oily sensitive skin [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(8): 966-973.
[6]	Meiling He,Limin Fan. Evaluation of anti-aging effect of percutaneous application of Silybum marianum extract [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(8): 981-987.
[7]	Xinjue Kuang,Yuanyuan Fu,Xiancai Chen,Yong Chen,Youting Liu,Fan Yi. A preliminary study on the mechanism of oily sensitive skin and intervention care [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(8): 988-996.
[8]	Piaopiao Yang,Jingya Zhang,Hong Liu,Lixia Li. Simultaneous determination of sulfonamides and quinolones antibiotics in cosmetics by high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(8): 997-1007.
[9]	Yejie Zhou, Yadi Liu, Yimo Zhao, Xiaotong Sun, Yu Gao, Jinshi Fan. Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials （Ⅶ）Branched heteroglycan anionic polysaccharides: gum tragacanth [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(7): 767-776.
[10]	Zhaoyi Liu, Xinyu Chen, Yan Wang, Xue Li, Ruoxi Guo, Han Zhang. Study on the reparative effects of oxymatrine on impaired skin barrier function in mice [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(7): 777-783.
[11]	Changmei Peng, Jie Feng, Tianbo Yao, Wanping Zhang, Shilian Zheng. Multidimensional analysis and study of physiological parameters of lip skin [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(7): 803-811.
[12]	Qiang Wang, Yonglin Xu, Yan Diao. Study of quercetin-loaded microemulsion with high loading capacity based on isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine as oil phase [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(7): 821-827.
[13]	Yueming Jiang, Wenjia Lu, Xin Qu. Effect of sandalwood extract on olfactory receptor and its clinical efficacy [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(7): 828-835.
[14]	Guanru Shao, Kunyang Zhang. Rhein attenuates UVB-induced skin photoaging injury by inhibiting p38 MAPK phosphorylation [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(7): 836-843.
[15]	Jiaojiao Wu, Wei Zhang, Yanchao Wang, Xinrong Pei. Safety evaluation progress of three kinds of arbutin and its current status in cosmetics regulations [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(7): 853-858.