β-谷甾醇/硬脂酸凝胶的制备及其在防晒化妆品中的应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2026.01.003

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

β-谷甾醇和硬脂酸可以形成稳定的凝胶，在化妆品领域有广阔的应用前景。本文通过调节油脂极性、β-谷甾醇和硬脂酸的含量制备了一系列凝胶。使用偏光显微镜、傅里叶红外光谱、流变仪等对凝胶的结构及稳定性进行分析。结果显示，凝胶网络是基于β-谷甾醇和硬脂酸分子之间的结晶和自组装形成的，通过物理交联和氢键等非共价相互作用而稳定。在探究出性能良好的凝胶配方后，将不同浓度的凝胶引入防晒乳液中，制备出水包油凝胶型防晒乳液。使用流变仪、紫外可见分光光度计、高效液相色谱仪等对乳液的稳定性、防晒性能及透皮性能进行分析。结果显示，该凝胶的引入使乳液稳定性提高、防晒性能增强，且防晒剂的透皮量降低。本研究结果不仅为β-谷甾醇/硬脂酸凝胶的有效应用提供依据，也为高性能防晒化妆品的开发奠定了基础。

关键词: β-谷甾醇, 硬脂酸, 凝胶, 防晒乳液

Abstract:

β-sitosterol and stearic acid can form stable gels. They have broad application prospects in the field of cosmetics. In this paper, a series of gels were prepared by adjusting the polarity of the oil, the content of β-sitosterol, and stearic acid. Polarizing microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and rheometer were used to analyze the structure and stability of the gels. The results show that the gel network is formed based on crystallization and self-assembly between β-sitosterol and stearic acid molecules. The gels with better performance are introduced to the sunscreen lotion to explore the application advantages of gels in sunscreen products. The rheometer, UV/Vis spectrophotometer, and high-performance liquid chromatograph were used to analyze the stability, sun protection and transdermal properties of the emulsion. The results show that the introduction of the gel improves the stability and enhances the sun protection of the emulsion significantly. Furthermore, the existence of gel reduces the transdermal amount of sunscreen and thus improves the safety of the product. This study provides not only basic information for the effective application of β-sitosterol/stearic acid gel, but also a foundation for the development of high-performance sunscreen cosmetics.

Key words: β-sitosterol, stearic acid, gel, sunscreen lotion

中图分类号:

TQ658

白菊, 牛传, 阮露杰, 叶志晟, 尚亚卓. β-谷甾醇/硬脂酸凝胶的制备及其在防晒化妆品中的应用[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2026, 56(1): 17-27.

Ju Bai, Zhuan Niu, Lujie Ruan, Zhicheng Ye, Yazhuo Shang. Preparation of β-sitosterol/stearic acid gel and its application in sunscreen cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(1): 17-27.

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相	原料	质量分数/%
A相	β-谷甾醇	X
	硬脂酸	Y
	二乙氨基羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯	1
	液晶乳化剂	5
	辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯	Z
	棕榈酸异辛酯	5
B相	水	至100
	卡波U21	0.2
	甘油	4
	1,3-丁二醇	4
	乙二胺四乙酸二钠	0.03
	丙烯酸钠/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物	0.15
C相	10%氢氧化钠	0.4
	对羟基苯乙酮	0.5
	1,2-己二醇	0.5