檀香木提取物对皮肤嗅觉受体的影响及功效

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.010

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

研究旨在探讨衰老对皮肤嗅觉受体OR2AT4的影响及檀香木提取物的作用机理和人体功效。通过不同年龄的体外重建表皮模型研究了年龄和OR2AT4的关系，并建立衰老表皮模型和毛囊真皮乳头细胞模型研究了檀香木提取物对OR2AT4的激活作用，通过毛囊真皮乳头细胞模型研究了檀香木提取物促进生长期延长因子IGF-1产生的作用。同时结合人体功效测试验证其抗衰老和防脱的功效。体外试验结果表明，OR2AT4的表达水平随年龄增加而减少。经1%檀香木提取物处理后，衰老表皮模型中的OR2AT4显著提升46%。同时，0.002%檀香木提取物作用于毛囊真皮乳头细胞时，可以促进IGF-1的产生，显著提升27%。临床试验结果表明，使用含2%檀香木提取物的面部乳霜28天后，皮肤水分含量、亮度、紧致度和皱纹均有所改善。使用含2%檀香木提取物的头皮精华86天后，头发密度显著提升。综上，檀香木提取物通过激活皮肤嗅觉受体改善皮肤衰老表征及防止因毛囊缺乏活力引起的脱发问题。

关键词: 嗅觉受体, 檀香木提取物, 皮肤衰老, 防脱, 人体功效测试

Abstract:

Olfactory receptors （OR） are a class of membrane proteins that can specifically bind to external chemicals （ligands）, thereby inducing intracellular signal transmission. In this work, the impact of aging on OR, the mechanism of sandalwood extract and its clinical efficacies were studied. The relationship between age and OR was studied using reconstructed human epidermis （RHEs） at different ages. The models of senescent RHE and hair follicle dermal papilla cells were established to study the activation of OR2AT4 by sandalwood extract. The role of sandalwood extract in promoting the production of anagen-prolonging factor IGF-1 was studied using hair follicle dermal papilla cell model. The results of in vitro test showed that, the expression of OR2AT4 decreased with age. The level of OR2AT4 in senescent RHE was significantly increased by 46% after treated with 1% sandalwood extract. In addition, 0.002% sandalwood extract could promote the production of IGF-1 in hair follicle dermal papilla cell model, which was significantly increased by 27%. The clinical results demonstrated that, the skin water content, skin tone, skin firmness and wrinkles were all improved after using a cream containing 2% sandalwood extract for 28 days. Hair density was significantly improved after using a scalp serum containing 2% sandalwood for 86 days. In conclusion, sandalwood extract could activate the expression of OR2AT4 and IGF-1 to improve skin aging signs and treat hair loss issue induced by hair follicle aging.

Key words: olfactory receptor, sandalwood extract, skin aging, anti-hair loss, human efficacy test

中图分类号:

TQ658

江月明, 鲁文嘉, 瞿欣. 檀香木提取物对皮肤嗅觉受体的影响及功效[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(7): 828-835.

Yueming Jiang, Wenjia Lu, Xin Qu. Effect of sandalwood extract on olfactory receptor and its clinical efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(7): 828-835.

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参考文献 13

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成分（INCI名称）	w/%
成分（INCI名称）	含2%檀香木提取物配方	安慰剂配方
辛基十二醇、檀香木提取物	1.00	无
硬脂基聚二甲硅氧烷	2.00	2.00
PEG-100硬脂酸酯、硬脂酸甘油酯	2.00	2.00
乳木果油	2.00	2.00
鲸蜡醇乳酸酯	1.50	1.50
辛基十二醇硬脂酸酯	5.00	5.00
棕榈酸乙基己酯	4.00	4.00
EDTA四钠	0.05	0.05
丙烯酸、VP交联聚合物	0.60	0.60
氢氧化钠	0.05	0.05
甘油、甘油丙烯酸酯、丙烯酸共聚物、丙二醇	3.00	3.00
苯氧乙醇、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸乙酯、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯	1.00	1.00
水	至100	至100

成分（INCI名称）	w/%
成分（INCI名称）	含2%檀香木提取物配方	安慰剂配方
辛基十二醇、檀香木提取物	1.00	无
羟乙基纤维素	0.20	0.20
EDTA二钠	0.05	0.05
卡波姆	0.135	0.135
氢氧化钠	0.024	0.024
甘油、甘油丙烯酸酯、丙烯酸共聚物、丙二醇、PVM/MA共聚物	3.00	3.00
甘油硬脂酸酯、山嵛醇、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、卵磷脂、月桂醇、肉豆蔻醇、鲸蜡醇	0.5	0.5
丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、异十六烷、聚山梨醇酯-60	0.1	0.1
苯氧乙醇、1, 3-丙二醇、碳酸丙二醇酯、辛酰羟肟酸、邻伞花烃-5-醇	0.7	0.7
水	至100	至100

功效	参数	样品	平均变化值（D28-D0）	P值	变化率/%
皮肤抗皱	皱纹等级	2%檀香木提取物	-0.53±0.87	0.009^**	-264
皮肤抗皱	皱纹等级	安慰剂	-0.15±0.41	0.009^**	-264
皮肤亮度	L^*值	2%檀香木提取物	0.13±0.19	0.041^*	152
皮肤亮度	L^*值	安慰剂	-0.26±0.19	0.041^*	152
皮肤保湿	角质层含水量	2%檀香木提取物	5.84±1.08	<0.001^****	243
皮肤保湿	角质层含水量	安慰剂	-4.10±0.97	<0.001^****	243
皮肤紧致	R0值	2%檀香木提取物	-0.031±0.008	0.039^*	-77
	R0值	安慰剂	-0.017±0.008	0.039^*	-77
	Q0值	2%檀香木提取物	-6.14±1.65	0.039^*	-77
	Q0值	安慰剂	-3.48±1.58	0.039^*	-77