头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅳ）—— 蛋白多肽类护发原料的研究现状

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.003

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

随着发用化妆品的发展，许多新的原料被开发和应用，蛋白多肽类的原料越来越多的被应用在多种发用化妆品中，例如洗发水、护发素、发膜等。在发用化妆品中加入某一些蛋白多肽类原料可以有效的提升头发的机械强度、柔顺度、疏水性等，因此对日常生活中的光老化和烫发时头发的还原以及染发时头发的漂白等化学损伤等具有修复效果。本文对蛋白多肽类护发原料的来源、提取方法、护发机理、护发效果、研究进展等方面进行了介绍，为蛋白多肽类护发原料的开发和研究提供一些参考。

关键词: 蛋白, 多肽, 护发

Abstract:

With the development of hair cosmetics, many new raw materials have been developed and widely applied. More and more raw materials such as proteins and polypeptides have been applied in a variety of hair cosmetics, including shampoos, hair conditioners, hair masks, etc. Adding some proteins or polypeptides into hair cosmetics can effectively improve the mechanical strength, flexibility and hydrophobicity of hair, so they have repair effects on photoaging and chemical damage such as hair reduction during perming and hair bleaching during coloring. In this review, the research progress of hair care materials based on proteins and polypeptides was introduced, including the sources, extraction methods, hair care mechanism, hair care effect, etc. This review could provide a guideline for the research and development of hair care materials based on proteins and polypeptides.

Key words: protein, polypeptide, hair care

中图分类号:

TQ658

范加谊, 马铃, 陈殿松, 常宽, 王靖. 头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅳ）—— 蛋白多肽类护发原料的研究现状[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(4): 382-389.

Fan Jiayi, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅳ） Development of protein and polypeptide ingredients for hair care[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(4): 382-389.

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	Breaking stress/Mpa			Deformation at break/%
	Virgin	Bleached	Permed	Virgin	Bleached	Permed
UT	330.85±75.78	295.55±83.33	289.01±112.29	43.28±6.07	42.16±7.50	51.22± 6.16
K-peptide	279.91±34.60	312.23±32.18	224.40± 74.51	47.78±5.70	51.82±4.93	53.32± 8.27
K-protein	271.86±87.35	251.66±73.33	172.29± 73.89	45.22±7.86	46.50±7.40	49.45±18.93

	Breakage work/J
	Virgin	Bleached	Permed
UT	14 629.60±5 396.48	12 765.40±5 272.84	14 492.50±4 846.86
K-peptide	14 112.21±1 955.47	15 723.90±1 865.58	11 115.60±2 626.91
K-protein	12 527.20±4 839.93	12 465.30±4 298.74	8 595.18±4 463.50