AIMP1衍生肽的护肤功效研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.02.007

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

皮肤糖化反应是导致肤色暗黄、色斑、老化的一个重要因素，针对皮肤糖化问题，开发了一种生物活性多肽并进行护肤功效验证。AIMP1衍生肽（AdP）是由氨基酰tRNA合成酶相互作用多功能蛋白质1（AIMP1）衍生而来的寡肽，具有类AIMP1的多种生物活性。采用牛血清白蛋白（BSA）糖化和羰基化体系研究AdP的抗糖化效果，并对含AdP的样品进行了临床功效测试。结果表明：AdP可减缓BSA与葡萄糖的糖基化反应，减少蛋白质羰基的生成，具有浓度依赖性；皮肤角质层含水量显著提高27.32%，TEWL降低12.77%，R2值提高10.34%，ITA°值提高14.25%，皱纹面积减少12.14%，AdP可有效抑制蛋白糖化，具有提升屏障功能、祛黄提亮抗皱的功效。

关键词: AIMP1衍生肽, 抗糖化, 功效研究

Abstract:

Advanced glycation end-products （AGEs） are produced during protein glycation and associated with skin ageing. The AIMP1 derived peptide （AdP） which is derived from aminoacyl tRNA synthase interacting multifunctional protein 1 may be used as an inhibitor of glycation. This study evaluated the potential anti-glycation effect of AdP and its application in cosmetic. Thirty valid subjects were selected as the research subjects, and non-invasive instruments were used to detect and record the water content, TEWL, R2, ITA°, wrinkle area/AOI area in the test group and the control group at 0, 4 and 8 weeks using corresponding products. The results show that the glycosylation reaction between BSA and glucose is inhibited by AdP, and the formation of protein carbonyl is reduced in a concentration-dependent manner. The applications of AdP in cosmetic has significant effects on improving the stratum corneum water content, the R2 value, the ITA° value, and the reducing the TEWL value and wrinkles. These findings suggest that AdP may serve as an inhibitor of glycation and provide new insights into its application.

Key words: AIMP1 derived peptide, anti-glycosylation, efficacy study

中图分类号:

TQ658

杨秀芬,马文君,李磊,王培培,郑春阳. AIMP1衍生肽的护肤功效研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(2): 171-179.

Yang Xiufen,Ma Wenjun,Li Lei,Wang Peipei,Zheng Chunyang. Study on skin care efficacy of AIMP1 derived peptide[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(2): 171-179.

图/表 18

图1

图2

图3

表1

图4

表2

表3

表4

图5

图6

表5

图7

图8

表6

图9

图10

表7

图11

参考文献 27

[1]	Rabbani N, Al-Motawa M, Thornalley P J. Protein glycation in plants: An under-researched field with much still to discover[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2020, 21 (11):39-42. doi: 10.3390/ijms21010039
[2]	GkogkolouP, Böhm M. Advanced glycation end products: Key players in skin aging[J]. Dermato Endocrinology, 2012, 4 (3):259-270. doi: 10.4161/derm.22028
[3]	Kueper T, Grune T, Prahl S, et al. Vimentin is the specific target in skin glycation. Structural prerequisites, functional consequences, and role in skin aging[J]. Journal of Biological Chemistry, 2007, 282 (32):23427. doi: 10.1074/jbc.M701586200 pmid: 17567584
[4]	Thornalley P J, Langborg A, Minhas H S. Formation of glyoxal, methylglyoxal and 3-deoxyglucosone in the glycation of proteins by glucose[J]. Biochem J, 1999, 344: 109-116. doi: 10.1042/bj3440109
[5]	Ros J. Protein carbonylation:principles,analysis,and biological implications[M]. 1st Edition. Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley ＆ Sons, Inc., 2017: 27-48.
[6]	Iwai I, Ikuta K, Murayama K, et al. Change in optical properties of stratum corneum induced by protein carbonylation in vitro[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2008, 30: 41-46.
[7]	LeeE J, Kim J Y, Oh S H. Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) promotemelanogenesis through receptor for AGEs[J]. Scientific Reports, 2016, 6: 27848. doi: 10.1038/srep27848
[8]	Ghodsi R, Kheirouri S. Carnosine and advanced glycation end products: a systematic review[J]. Amino Acids, 2018, 50: 1177-1186. doi: 10.1007/s00726-018-2592-9 pmid: 29858687
[9]	Bartáková V, Pleskačová A, Kuricová Katarína, et al. Dysfunctional protection against advanced glycation due to thiamine metabolism abnormalities in gestational diabetes[J]. Glycoconjugate Journal, 2016, 33 (4):1-8. doi: 10.1007/s10719-015-9642-2
[10]	Khmaladze I, Österlund C, Smiljanic S, et al. A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020, 19: 1415-1425. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13176 pmid: 31584241
[11]	Bissett D L, Oblong J E, Berge C A. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance[J]. Dermatologic Surgery, 2010, 31: 860-866. doi: 10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
[12]	Nenna A, Spadaccio C, Lusini M, et al. Basic and clinical research against advanced glycation end products(AGEs): new compounds to tackle cardiovascular disease and diabetic complications[J]. Recent Advance Cardiovasc Drug Discover, 2015, 10: 10-33.
[13]	Metz T O, Alderson N L, Thorpe S R, et al. Pyridoxamine, an inhibitor of advanced glycation and lipoxidation reactions: a novel therapy for treatment of diabetic complications[J]. Archives of Biochemistry and Biophysics, 2003, 419: 41-49. doi: 10.1016/j.abb.2003.08.021 pmid: 14568007
[14]	Ghelani H, Razmovski N V, Pragada R R, et al. Attenuation of glucose-induced myoglobin glycation and the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) by (R)-α-lipoic acid in vitro[J]. Biomolecules, 2018, 8 (1):9. doi: 10.3390/biom8010009
[15]	Danby F W. Nutrition and aging skin: sugar and glycation[J]. Clinics in Dermatology, 2010, 28 (4):409-411. doi: 10.1016/j.clindermatol.2010.03.018
[16]	Babu P V A, Sabitha K E, Shyamaladevi C S. Effect of green tea extract on advanced glycation and cross-linking of tail tendon collagen in streptozotocin induced diabetic rats[J]. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 2008, 46: 280-285. pmid: 17884275
[17]	Dearlove R P, Greenspan P, Hartle D K, et al. Inhibition of protein glycation by extracts of culinary herbs and spices[J]. Journal of Medicinal Food, 2008, 11: 275-281. doi: 10.1089/jmf.2007.536 pmid: 18598169
[18]	Frei B, Higdon J V. Antioxidant activity of tea polyphenols in vivo: evidence from animal studies[J]. Journal of Nutrition, 2003, 133 (10):3275. pmid: 14519826
[19]	Aldini G, Vistoli G, Stefek M, et al. Molecular strategies to prevent, inhibit, and degrade advanced glycoxidation and advanced lipoxidation end products[J]. Free Radical Research, 2013, 47 (1):93-137. doi: 10.3109/10715762.2013.792926
[20]	Jung Min Han, Sang Gyu Park, Yeonsook Lee, et al. Structural separation of different extracellular activities in aminoacyl-tRNA synthetase-interacting multi-functional protein, p43/AIMP1[J]. Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, 2006, 342: 113-118. doi: 10.1016/j.bbrc.2006.01.117 pmid: 16472771
[21]	Jina Kim, Sujin Kang, Han Jin Kwon, et al. Dual functional bioactive-peptide, AIMP1-derived peptide (AdP), for anti-aging[J]. Cosmet Dermatol, 2019, 18: 251-257.
[22]	Jeong-Jun Lee, Young-Min Han, Tae-Wan Kwon, et al. Functional fragments of AIMP1-derived peptide (AdP) and optimized hydrosol for their topical deposition by Box-Behnken design[J]. Molecules, 2019, 24 (10):1967. doi: 10.3390/molecules24101967
[23]	Beom Jun Lee, Jae Hak Park, Yong Soon Lee, et al. Effect of carnosine and related compounds on glucose oxidation and protein glycation in vitro[J]. Biochem Mole Biology, 1999, 32 (4):370-378.
[24]	Hipkiss A R, Worthington V C, Himsworth T J, et al. Protective effects of carnosine against protein modification mediated by malondialdehyde and hypochlorite[J]. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta, 1998 (1380):46-54.
[25]	Yang Lijie, Hu Weiyi, Ma Yafeng. Establishment of reference model of positive control substance for SLS human single patch test[J]. Chin J Lepr Skin Dis, 2017, 33 (2):88-91.
[26]	Crisan M, Taulescu M, Crisan D, et al. Expression of advanced glycation end-products on sun-exposed and non-exposed cutaneous sites during the ageing process in humans[J]. Plos One, 2013, 8 (10):75003. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0075003 pmid: 24116020
[27]	Lin Jie, He Congfen, Dong Yinmao. Transdermal absorption mechanism of functional components in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2009, 39 (4):275-278.

AdP质量浓度/ （mg/mL）	12 h累计透过量/ （μg/cm²）	24 h累计透过量/ （μg/cm²）
5	667±19	1 131±30
10	993±21	2 056±13
20	1 719±17	3 715±27

组别		时间/h	1级反应（例）	反应率/%（30例）
AdP		0.5	2	6.67
	0.1%	24	1	3.33
		48	0	0
		0.5	1	3.33
	0.05%	24	0	0
		48	0	0
		0.5	0	0
	0.01%	24	0	0
		48	0	0
阳性对照	0.02% SLS	0.5	4	13.33
		24	5	16.67
		48	3	10.00
阴性对照	蒸馏水	0.5	1	3.33
		24	0	0
		48	0	0

t/周	角质层含水量		与0周的差值
t/周	测试组	空白组	测试组	空白组
0	23.57±4.32	22.68±4.96
4	26.19±6.19	23.91±5.27	2.62	1.23
8	30.01±5.62	26.05±5.72	6.44	3.37

t/周	TEWL/ （g/ （cm²·h））		与0周的差值
t/周	测试组	空白组	测试组	空白组
0	19.34±4.74	18.25±5.38
4	17.76±5.37	17.55±5.26	-1.58	-0.7
8	16.87±4.98	17.17±4.79	-2.47	-1.08

t/周	弹性R2值		与0周的差值
t/周	测试组	空白组	测试组	空白组
0	0.521 5±0.052 3	0.522 8±0.054 1
4	0.552 1±0.062 6	0.531 6±0.064 2	0.030 6	0.008 8
8	0.575 4±0.078 3	0.532 1±0.065 3	0.053 9	0.009 3