面部皮肤衰老的外观变化及形成因素

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.013

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

皮肤会随年龄发生有规律地渐近变化,表现出一些特定的衰老迹象,如皮肤皱纹、松弛和色素沉着,影响人的外观吸引力。从衰老机理出发,开发有效延缓皮肤衰老的产品备受企业的关注。综述了面部皮肤衰老的外观变化和相关外观衰老迹象对感知年龄的影响,以及皮肤主要衰老迹象的内在机制和外在环境影响因素。近年来,研究发现,无论性别、种族或地域,皮肤衰老外观最明显的迹象是皱纹和下垂,也是影响感知年龄最主要的因素,与皮肤结构的变化有关;其余主要是色素沉着相关问题。光老化、环境污染等环境因素会显著促进皮肤的衰老外观变化,提高衰老迹象的阈值。皮肤衰老是多种因素综合作用的结果,基于皱纹、下垂、色素沉着等不同皮肤衰老迹象的对应机制和影响因素开发抗衰老产品,将更有针对性地解决消费者的需求,实现精准护肤。本文为研究人员多维度开发抗衰老化妆品提供理论支持和建议。

关键词: 皮肤衰老, 外观变化, 形成因素

Abstract:

Skin tends to show regular asymptotic changes with age, showing some specific aging signs, such as skin wrinkles, sagging and pigmentation. These aging changes affect physical attractiveness and perceived age, contradicting people’s desire to look younger. How to develop effective anti-aging products based on the mechanism of skin aging is the focus of enterprises. This paper summarized the appearance changes of skin aging, the influence of appearance signs of aging on perceived age, and the internal mechanism and external influencing factors of the skin aging signs. The most obvious and dominant skin aging signs are wrinkles and sagging, which are associated with changes in skin structure, regardless of gender, race or region, and the rest are mainly pigmentation problems. The severity of these aging problems and cultural background together affect people’s subjective judgment of age and health. The formation of wrinkles is more like the double result of muscle contraction and tissue defect, and skin softness and moisture content also play an important role. The decrease of skin thickness, extracellular matrix composition and water content associated with aging are the main contributing factors to the formation of wrinkles. The mechanism of skin sagging involves skin deformation （mechanics） caused by progressive stretching of skin by gravity, atrophy of dermis and subcutaneous adipose tissue, weakening of support force of adipose muscle and damage of elastic fibers. The appearance of “faded old woman” is related to carbonylation and glycosylation of dermal protein. Sun exposure and environmental pollution can worsen the appearance of aging, increase perceived age, and present premature aging. Skin aging signs are the result of comprehensive factors. The development of anti-aging products based on mechanisms of different skin aging signs of wrinkles, sagging, and pigmentation will be more targeted to solve consumer’s needs. This paper provides suggestions and directions for researchers to develop multi-dimensional skin anti-aging products.

Key words: skin aging, appearance change, formation factors

中图分类号:

TQ658

杜克斯,李泽巧,张宝江,郑玉梅,任晗堃,程建华. 面部皮肤衰老的外观变化及形成因素[J]. 日用化学工业, 2022, 52(2): 199-206.

Du Kesi,Li Zeqiao,Zhang Baojiang,Zheng Yumei,Ren Hankun,Cheng Jianhua. Appearance changes and formation factors of facial skin aging[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(2): 199-206.

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