基于油凝胶的天然赋色唇膏的制备及性能研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.005

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

研究乳化剂质量分数影响蜂蜡油凝胶唇膏理化性质的规律。选择玉米油为溶剂，蜂蜡为凝胶剂，不同质量分数单硬脂酸甘油酯（GMS）作乳化剂，β-胡萝卜素为代表性功能因子，制备负载天然色素的油凝胶，并探究油凝胶的晶体形态、流变学、质构、热力学特性与色素的包埋率及稳定性的关系，分析其作为唇膏的应用性能。研究发现随着GMS质量分数增加，油凝胶的储能模量（G′）与损耗模量（G″）更高，且具有更高的屈服应力。油凝胶以β′晶型为主，含4% GMS的油凝胶晶面间距、晶粒尺寸最大，结晶度最大。添加4% GMS的油凝胶触变恢复率为17.36%，对β-胡萝卜素具有最高的包埋率（65.51%），及最高稳定性（12 h光照后的保留率为82.20%），GMS质量分数为4%的唇膏综合性能较好。本研究结果具有广泛适用性，对天然唇膏产品的开发具有指导意义。

关键词: 油凝胶, β-胡萝卜素, 单硬脂酸甘油酯, 唇膏, 蜂蜡

Abstract:

The effects of mass fraction of emulsifier on the physicochemical properties of beeswax oleogel lipstick were investigated. To prepare the oleogel loaded with natural pigment, corn oil was selected as the solvent, beeswax was used as the gelling agent, glycerin monostearate （GMS） with different mass fractions was added as the emulsifier, and β-carotene was used as the representative functional factor. The relationships between the crystal morphology, rheology, texture and thermodynamic properties of the oleogel and the encapsulation and stability of the pigment were investigated, and the application performance as a lipstick was analyzed. It was found that, with increasing mass fraction of GMS, the oleogel had higher storage modulus （G′）, higher loss modulus （G″） and higher yield stress. The oleogels were dominated by β′ crystal form, and the oleogel containing 4% GMS had the largest crystal plane spacing, the largest crystal grain size and the largest crystallinity. The thixotropic recovery of the oleogel with 4% GMS was 17.36%, and it had the highest encapsulation rate （65.51%） and stability （retention of 82.20% after 12 h of light） for β-carotene. The lipstick with 4% GMS mass fraction had good overall performance. The results of this work had wide applicability and were of guiding significance for the development of natural lipstick products.

Key words: oleogel, β-carotene, glycerin monostearate, lipstick, beeswax

中图分类号:

TQ658.5

王润, 龚芋欣, 张若宁, 毛立科. 基于油凝胶的天然赋色唇膏的制备及性能研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(10): 1147-1155.

Wang Run, Gong Yuxin, Zhang Ruoning, Mao Like. Preparation and properties of natural colored lipstick based on oleogels[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(10): 1147-1155.

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名称	质量/g
蜂蜡	20
V_E	0.5
色素	3
GMS	0	2	4	6
玉米油	76.5	74.5	72.5	70.5

w（GMS）/ %	G′=K′（2πf）^n′
w（GMS）/ %	K′	n′	R²
0	1.271×10⁵±0.350×10^{5 b}	0.085±0.000^a	0.996
2	2.239×10⁵±0.182×10^{5 ab}	0.085±0.008^a	0.993
4	3.400×10⁵±0.083×10^{5 ab}	0.081±0.005^a	0.984
6	4.504×10⁵±0.496×10^{5 a}	0.097±0.008^a	0.995

w（GMS）/%	2θ/（°）			B值/mm			晶粒尺寸/?
w（GMS）/%	峰1	峰2	峰3	峰1	峰2	峰3	峰1	峰2	峰3
0	18.781	20.96	23.241	0.153	0.252	0.315	4.183	3.748	3.380
2	18.792	20.804	23.261	0.196	0.274	0.254	4.180	3.776	3.377
4	18.581	20.783	23.131	0.125	0.196	0.176	4.228	3.780	3.396
6	18.838	20.840	23.360	0.241	0.280	0.244	4.170	3.770	3.363