O/W/Si多重防晒乳液的制备及性能研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.006

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为解决防晒乳液中有机防晒剂带来的油腻感和刺激性风险，文章使用包覆了有机防晒剂的固体脂质纳米粒，通过两步乳化法制备了外油相为硅油，内油相为有机防晒剂的O/W/Si多重防晒乳液；分析了外硅油相体积比、W/O乳化剂用量、无机盐对乳液形成及稳定性的影响，深入研究了不同类型防晒乳液的体外防晒性能、抗水性及防晒剂皮肤渗透性能的不同。结果显示，在实验条件下，含有22.5%的外硅油相、2.5%的乳化剂及0.2%的NaCl所制得的O/W/Si多重防晒乳液稳定性最佳；O/W/Si多重防晒乳液的SPF值和抗水性略高于W/O防晒乳液，但显著高于O/W防晒乳液；对比于W/O防晒乳液，O/W/Si多重防晒乳液中有机防晒剂的体外经皮渗透率降低了约60%，具备更高安全性，展现了在防晒化妆品中的良好应用前景。

关键词: O/W/Si多重结构乳状液, 有机防晒剂, 防晒性能, 抗水性, 经皮渗透性

Abstract:

To solve the greasiness and irritation risks brought about by organic sun-screening agents in sunscreen emulsions, in this work, a sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion was prepared by two-step emulsification method, in which the outer oil phase was silicone oil and the inner oil phase was solid lipid nanoparticles coated with organic sun-screening agent. Several influencing factors on the formation and stability of the emulsion were analyzed, including inorganic salts, the volume fraction of outer oil phase （silicone oil）, and the dosage of W/O emulsifier. The in vitro sunscreen performance, water resistance and skin permeability of different types of sunscreen emulsions were further studied. The results showed that the sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion containing 22.5% silicone oil, 2.5% emulsifier and 0.2% NaCl had the best stability under the experimental conditions. The SPF value and water resistance of sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion were slightly higher than those of sunscreen W/O emulsion, but significantly higher than those of sunscreen O/W emulsion. Compared with sunscreen W/O emulsion, the in vitro transdermal permeability of organic sun-screening agent in sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion was reduced by approximately 60%, indicative of higher safety and good application prospect in sunscreen cosmetics.

Key words: O/W/Si multiple emulsion, organic sunscreen, sun protection performance, water resistance, percutaneous permeability

中图分类号:

TQ658

张婉萍, 周率, 高子豪, 朱海洋. O/W/Si多重防晒乳液的制备及性能研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(12): 1447-1455.

Wanping Zhang, Lv Zhou, Zihao Gao, Haiyang Zhu. Study on the preparation and properties of sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(12): 1447-1455.

图/表 14

图1

图2

表1

图3

图4

表2

图5

图6

图7

图8

表3

图9

图10

图11

参考文献 23

[1]	Lowe N J. An overview of ultraviolet radiation, sunscreens, and photo-induced dermatoses[J]. Dermatologic Clinics, 2006, 24 (1) : 9-17. doi: 10.1016/j.det.2005.08.001 pmid: 16311163
[2]	Schneiderbanger C K, Schuler G, Heinzerling L, et al. Characterization of tanning behavior assessed via online survey: Attitudes, habits, and preventive measures with focus on sunscreen use[J]. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 2019, 35 (4) : 268-274.
[3]	Ma Y, Yoo J. History of sunscreen: An updated view[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2021, 20 (4) : 1044-1049. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14004 pmid: 33583116
[4]	Guo Li. Chinese sunscreen cosmetics development trend[J]. China Cosmetics Review, 2020 (8) : 82-87.
[5]	Ngoc L T N, Tran V V, Moon J Y, et al. Recent trends of sunscreen cosmetic: an update review[J]. Cosmetics, 2019, 6 (4) : 64.
[6]	Nash J F, Tanner P R. Relevance of UV filter/sunscreen product photostability to human safety[J]. Photodermatology Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 2014, 30 (2/3) : 88-95.
[7]	Stokes R P, Diffey B L. The water resistance of sunscreen and day-care products[J]. The British Journal of Dermatology, 1999, 140 (2) : 259-263.
[8]	Parrish J A, Pathak M A, Fitzpatrick T B. Facial irritation due to sunscreen products[J]. Archives of Dermatology, 1975, 111 (4) : 525.
[9]	Lewicka Z A, William W Y, Oliva B L, et al. Photochemical behavior of nanoscale TiO₂ and ZnO sunscreen ingredients[J]. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology A: Chemistry, 2013, 263: 24-33.
[10]	Yaqoob Khan A, Talegaonkar S, Iqbal Z, et al. Multiple emulsions: an overview[J]. Current Drug Delivery, 2006, 3 (4) : 429-443. pmid: 17076645
[11]	Pal R. Rheology of simple and multiple emulsions[J]. Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science, 2011, 16 (1) : 41-60.
[12]	Ferrari M, Rocha-Filho P A. Multiple emulsions containing amazon oil: açaí oil (Euterpe oleracea)[J]. Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, 2011, 21 (4) : 737-743.
[13]	Yukio Inomata, Toshiakiy Yaginuma. Effective sunscreen with O/W/O multiple emulsion[J]. Detergent & Cosmetics, 2008 (7) : 17-20.
[14]	Meng Xiao, Chen Qinsheng, Gong Shenzhao, et al. A mild and efficient multi emulsion sunscreen and its preparation method: CN106821793A[P]. 2017-06-13.
[15]	Zhong Xiaomin, He Yangpeng. A low irritant multiple emulsion sunscreen cosmetic and its preparation method: CN109549859A[P]. 2019-04-02.
[16]	Liu Xiaohui. Preparation and characterization of nano solid lipid carriers encapsulating UVA/UAB sunscreen agents[D]. Shanghai: Shanghai Institute of Technology, 2016.
[17]	Wissing S A, Müller R H. A novel sunscreen system based on tocopherol acetate incorporated into solid lipid nanoparticles[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2001, 23 (4) : 233-243. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00087.x pmid: 18498463
[18]	Ahn S, Yang H, Lee H, et al. Alternative evaluation method in vitro for the water‐resistant effect of sunscreen products[J]. Skin Research and Technology, 2008, 14 (2) : 187-191.
[19]	Sohn M, Hêche A, Herzog B, et al. Film thickness frequency distribution of different vehicles determines sunscreen efficacy[J]. Journal of Biomedical Optics, 2014, 19 (11) : 115005.
[20]	Aserin A. Multiple emulsion: technology and applications[M]. New York: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2008.
[21]	Hayden C G J, Cross S E, Anderson C, et al. Sunscreen penetration of human skin and related keratinocyte toxicity after topical application[J]. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2005, 18 (4) : 170-174. pmid: 15908756
[22]	Nohynek G J, Schaefer H. Benefit and risk of organic ultraviolet filters[J]. Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, 2001, 33 (3) : 285-299. pmid: 11407932
[23]	Schauder S, Ippen H. Contact and photocontact sensitivity to sunscreens: Review of a 15‐year experience and of the literature[J]. Contact Dermatitis, 1997, 37 (5) : 221-232. pmid: 9412750

组相	原料名称	w/%
A（外油相）	PEG-10聚二甲基硅氧烷	2.5
	环五（和）环六聚二甲基硅氧烷	25.0
	聚二甲基硅氧烷	5.0
B（水相）	水	To 100.0
	甘油	5.0
	防晒剂-SLN	20.0
	氯化钠	0.2
C（防腐剂）	苯氧乙醇	0.5

商品名	INCI中文名	HLB值
KF-6017	PEG-10聚二甲基硅氧烷	4.5
KF-6038	月桂基PEG-9聚二甲基硅氧乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷	3
EM 90	鲸蜡基PEG/PPG-10/1聚二甲基硅氧烷	5