西藏特色植物资源在化妆品中的研究与应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.06.012

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

国家“鼓励和支持运用现代科学技术，结合我国传统优势项目和特色植物资源研究开发化妆品”的政策导向为国内化妆品开发指明了全新的科研方向。西藏作为我国乃至世界上生物多样性最丰富和最典型的地区之一，孕育了9 600多种野生植物，其中1 075种为西藏特有，各类珍稀濒危保护野生植物383种。其地处青藏高原，海拔高、光照强、空气稀薄、昼夜温差大，导致该地区植物资源具有独特的二次代谢产物与生物活性，近年来，成为中国特色植物资源化妆品研发的热点领域。文章对西藏阿里、那曲、拉萨、日喀则、山南、林芝及昌都等七个地区植物资源的植物组成、区系划分、植物多样性特征进行系统综述，首次系统分析30种西藏特色植物在抗皱、美白、舒缓、祛痘、发用等产品中的应用现状及其发展前景，为西藏植物资源的保护、开发以及在化妆品领域的研究与应用提供可靠的基础理论支持。

关键词: 西藏特色植物, 地理区系, 植物资源分类, 化妆品应用

Abstract:

The state encourages and supports the use of modern science and technology, and the policy orientation of research and development of cosmetics in combination with our country's traditional advantageous projects and characteristic plant resources has pointed out a new scientific research direction for the development of domestic cosmetics. As one of the richest and most typical regions of biodiversity in the country and even in the world, Tibet has bred more than 9 600 kinds of wild plants, of which 1 075 are endemic to Tibet, and 383 kinds of rare and endangered wild plants are protected. Because of its location on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, high altitude, strong sunlight, thin air, and large temperature difference between day and night, the plant resources in this area have unique secondary metabolites and biological activities. This paper systematically reviews the plant composition, floristic division and plant diversity characteristics of plant resources in seven regions of Tibet, including Ali, Nagqu, Lhasa, Shigatse, Shannan, Nyingchi and Qamdo. Based on the general situation of plant resources in Tibet, the application status and development prospect of 30 kinds of plants with Tibetan characteristics in anti-wrinkle, whitening, soothing, anti-acne, hair care and other products are systematically analyzed for the first time, providing reliable theoretical support for the protection and development of Tibetan plant resources and the research and application in the field of cosmetics.

Key words: characteristic plants of Tibet, geographical fauna, plant resources classification, cosmetic application

中图分类号:

TQ658

孟宪瑶, 程一丹, 郭苗苗, 凌霄, 虞旦, 李丽. 西藏特色植物资源在化妆品中的研究与应用[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(6): 698-705.

Meng Xianyao, Cheng Yidan, Guo Miaomiao, Ling Xiao, Yu Dan, Li Li. Research and application of Tibetan characteristic plant resources in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(6): 698-705.

图/表 2

表1

表2

西藏植物在化妆品中的功效"

名称	拉丁名	已使用化妆品原料中文名称	INCI名称	功效	参考文献
蕨麻	Potentilla anserina L.	鹅绒委陵菜（POTENTILLA ANSERINA）提取物	POTENTILLA ANSERINA EXTRACT	抗氧化、抗衰、抑菌、增强免疫力	[11]
红景天	Rhodiola rosea L.	红景天（RHODIOLA ROSEA）提取物	RHODIOLA ROSEA EXTRACT	抗氧化、防老化、抗辐射、美白	[12]
大花红景天	Rhodiola crenulata	大花红景天（RHODIOLA CRENULATA）根提取物	RHODIOLA CRENULATA ROOT EXTRACT
长鞭红景天	Rhodiola fastigiata
四裂红景天	Rhodiola quadrifida
五脉绿绒蒿	Meconopsis quintuplinervia Regel	五脉绿绒蒿（MECONOPSIS QUINTUPLINERVIA）提取物	MECONOPSIS QUINTUPLINERVIA EXTRACT	抗氧化	[13]
手参	Gymnadenia conopsea R.Brown			抗氧化、抗过敏	[14]
珠芽蓼	Polygonum viviparum L.			抗氧化、抗菌、抗炎	[15]
大花黄牡丹	Paeonia ludlowii D.Y.Hong			抗氧化、抗菌	[16]
藏波罗花	Incarvillea younghusbandii Sprague			抗氧化、抗衰	[17]
绿萝花	Edgeworthia gardneri			抗氧化、抗衰	[18]
红缨合耳菊	Synotis erythropappa （Bur. et Franch. ） C. Jeffrey et Y. L. Chen			美白、防晒	[19,20]
金露梅	Potentilla fruticosa L.			美白、抑菌、抗炎、抗氧化	[21]
雪莲	Saussurea laniceps Maxim.			抗炎、抗氧化、抑菌、抗衰	[22]
藏菖蒲	Acorus calamus L.	藏菖蒲（ACORUS CALAMUS）提取物	ACORUS CALAMUS EXTRACT	抗炎抑菌	[23,24]
麻花秦艽	Gentiana straminea Maxim.	麻花秦艽（GENTIANA STRAMINEA）提取物	GENTIANA STRAMINEA EXTRACT	抗炎、抗过敏	[25,26]
川贝母	Fritillaria cirrhosa D. Don			抗炎、抗菌、抗氧化	[27]
雪灵芝	Arenaria brevipetala Y. W. Tsui et L. H. Zhou			抗炎抑菌	[28]
螃蟹甲	Phlomis younghusbandii Mukerjee			抗炎抗菌	[29]
胡黄连	Picrorhiza scrophulariiflora Pennel	胡黄连（PICRORHIZA SCROPHULARIIFLORA）根提取物	PICRORHIZA SCROPHULARIFLORA ROOT EXTRACT	抑菌、抗炎、抗氧化	[30]
掌叶大黄	Rheum Palmatum	掌叶大黄（RHEUM PALMATUM）提取物	RHEUM PALMATUM EXTRACT	抑菌、抗氧化	[31]
黄荆	Vitex negundo L.	黄荆（VITEX NEGUNDO）提取物	VITEX NEGUNDO EXTRACT	抗炎抑菌	[32]
蓝花龙胆	Gentiana filistyla			抑菌、抗炎	[33]
藏白蒿	Artemisia younghusbandii			抑菌	[34]
砂生槐	Sophora moocroftiana （Benth.） Benth.ex Baker			抑菌、抗炎	[35]
藏紫苑	Aster souliei Franch.			抗菌、抗氧化	[36]
独一味	Lamiophlomis rotata			抗炎、抑菌	[37]
长松萝	Usnea longissima			抑菌	[38]
天麻	Gastrodia elata Bl.	天麻（GASTRODIA ELATA）提取物	天麻（GASTRODIA ELATA）提取物	抑菌、抗炎、头发调理剂	[39]
诃子	Terminalia chebula Retz.			乌发	[40]

表2

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地区	地形	气候类型	气候特征	植物种类
地区	地形	气候类型	气候特征	科	属	种
阿里地区^[3]	西藏自治区西部，地处青藏高原北部羌塘高原一带	高原寒带季风干旱气候、高原亚寒带季风干旱气候和高原温带季风干旱气候	气候干燥、寒冷，降水量少且雨季集中，干湿季明显，是典型的干旱地区	53	159	319
那曲地区^[4]	西藏北部的高原腹地，位于念青唐古拉山脉、唐古拉山脉和冈底斯山脉之间	高原亚寒带半湿润气候	四季不分明，只有冷暖季节之分	39	130	304
拉萨地区^[5]	西藏高原的中部，喜马拉雅山脉北侧	高原温带半干旱季风气候	全年天气晴朗，日照时间长，降水少，夏季没有酷暑，冬季没有极寒天气	65	213	577
日喀则地区^[6]	青藏高原西南部，北部与那曲地区相邻、西部紧靠阿里地区、山南地区、东邻拉萨市	高原温带半干旱季风气候、高原温带半湿润季风气候和高原亚寒带半干旱、干旱季风气候	降水量分布不均匀	58	179	339
山南地区^[7]	冈底斯山直念青唐古拉山以南	温带干旱气候，南部边境地带属高原亚寒带半干旱气候	干湿季明显	106	416	874
林芝地区^[8]	西藏自治区东南部，西靠拉萨、东衔昌都地区	热带湿润和半湿润气候	气候温暖，降水充沛，是西藏降水较多的地区之一	67	188	308
昌都地区^[9]	西藏自治区东部，位于澜沧江上游	高原亚温带亚湿润气候	西北部、北部严寒干燥，东南部温和湿润	56	170	332