肽在个人护理用品中的应用现状与展望

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.012

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

活性肽是一类具有皮肤护理功效的功效成分,近几年为市场和消费者所推崇。为了解全球肽原料在个人护理用品中的应用现状,文章回顾了肽的简短应用历史,以及在个人护理用品中所应用肽的定义,比较了我国《已使用化妆品原料目录（2021年版）》和《国际化妆品原料字典和手册（2018版）》中肽原料的情况,调研了2016—2020年全球个人护理用品市场上含有肽成分的产品情况及肽应用广泛的企业。进一步研究了使用频率较高的14种肽,并按其作用机理分为三类：信号肽、神经递质抑制肽、载体肽,还简述了其他一些活性肽。文章还对肽在个人护理用品中的应用趋势进行了展望,以期为功效性肽原料的进一步研究开发和应用提供一定的参考价值。

关键词: 肽, 信号肽, 神经递质抑制肽, 载体肽, 个人护理用品

Abstract:

Peptides are a kind of active ingredient with skin care effect, which has been highly praised by the market and consumers in recent years. To understand the current situation of peptide application in personal care products globally, the brief history of peptide applications and their naming rules were reviewed. The peptide materials in Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China （2021 edition） and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook （2018 edition） were compared, and the products containing peptides and the companies with extensive use of peptides in the global market of personal care products from 2016 to 2020 were surveyed. 14 peptides that were frequently used were further studied and divided into three categories according to their action mechanism: signal peptide, neurotransmitter inhibitory peptide and carrier peptide. Some other active peptides were also briefly described. The application trend of peptides in personal care products was also prospected to provide reference for their further research, development, and application.

Key words: peptide, signal peptide, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptide, carrier peptide, personal care product

中图分类号:

TQ658

燕欣,凌峰,魏少敏. 肽在个人护理用品中的应用现状与展望[J]. 日用化学工业, 2022, 52(9): 999-1004.

Yan Xin,Ling Feng,Wei Shaomin. Application status and prospect of peptides in personal care products[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(9): 999-1004.

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成分名称	所属类型	护肤作用机制简介
棕榈酰四肽-7	信号肽	通过刺激层黏连蛋白,Ⅳ、Ⅶ型胶原蛋白合成和减少白细胞介素（IL-6）的生成,消除炎症,增加皮肤弹性
乙酰基六肽-8	神经递质抑制肽	类肉毒素样作用
棕榈酰三肽-1	信号肽	增加胶原蛋白生成
棕榈酰五肽-4	信号肽	ECM蛋白合成调节剂
棕榈酰三肽-5	信号肽	通过TGF-b,促进胶原合成
棕榈酰寡肽	信号肽	通过信号转导,促进胶原合成
铜三肽-1	载体肽	降低MMP酶和胶原酶的活性,减少胶原降解
棕榈酰六肽-12	信号肽	下调MMP合成,上调胶原合成
二肽二氨基丁酰苄基酰胺二乙酸盐	神经递质抑制肽	模拟蛇毒血清的胜肽,可阻止乙酰胆碱的神经传导,达到放松肌肉的效果,从而改善动态性皱纹
乙酰基二肽-1鲸蜡酯	神经递质抑制肽	抑制CGRP和P物质的释放
三肽-1	信号肽	作用同棕榈酰三肽-38
棕榈酰三肽-38	信号肽	天然存在于胶原蛋白Ⅵ三肽,促进胶原蛋白Ⅰ,Ⅲ,Ⅳ等ECM合成,使皱纹平滑,皮肤得到舒缓
乙酰基四肽-5	信号肽	抑制血管紧张素I转换酶,降低血管的通透性,改善眼部水肿
乙酰基六肽-1	神经递质抑制肽	类肉毒素样作用