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日用化学工业 ›› 2021, Vol. 51 ›› Issue (8): 748-753.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.008

• 开发与应用 • 上一篇    下一篇

口红持久度评价体系的建立

岑晓娟1,王颖1,周荷益1,刘唯一2,*(),周琳2,盘瑶2   

  1. 1.资生堂(中国)研究开发中心有限公司,北京 100176
    2.北京工商大学 化学与材料工程学院 化妆品系,北京 100048
  • 收稿日期:2020-12-02 修回日期:2021-07-29 出版日期:2021-08-22 发布日期:2021-08-24
  • 通讯作者: 刘唯一

Research on the establishment of lipstick persistence evaluation system

Cen Xiaojuan1,Wang Ying1,Zhou Heyi1,Liu Weiyi2,*(),Zhou Lin2,Pan Yao2   

  1. 1. Shiseido China Innovation Center Co., Ltd., Beijing 100176, China
    2. Cosmetics Department, College of Chemistry and Materials Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
  • Received:2020-12-02 Revised:2021-07-29 Online:2021-08-22 Published:2021-08-24
  • Contact: Weiyi Liu

摘要:

口红属于彩妆产品,与功效性产品的不同之处在于其既要带来美的感受又要追求妆容的即时效果。目前鲜有关于口红持妆力测试的论文,本研究旨在建立综合客观的口红持久度评价指标和分级图谱。对涂抹口红的志愿者进行人为干扰处理模拟口红脱妆过程,采集志愿者唇部图像并对口红颜色变化进行数据分析后建立数学模型,对口红持妆给予客观的量化判定,同时建立分级图谱。结果发现,在口红图像数据的客观化评价中,口红的颜色和颜色的均匀度是计算持妆指数的主要影响因素,所建立的口红持妆分级图谱将口红的持妆程度分为6个等级,一级为持妆率100%的状态,随着级别升高持妆率降低。建立了直观、量化的图谱和模型用于判定口红的持妆程度,为彩妆感官评价方法学的发展提供了全新的思路和数据支持。

关键词: 口红, 持妆率, 持久度, 分级图谱

Abstract:

As a color cosmetic product, lipstick not only brings beauty, but also pursues the instant effect of makeup. Currently, there are few papers on lipstick makeup retention test. The aim of the study was to establish a comprehensive and objective evaluation index and grading map of lipstick durability. Firstly, the volunteers who applied lipstick were subjected to artificial interference processing to simulate the lipstick take-off process and the lip image of the volunteers were captured by VISIA-CR. Then Image Pro Plus (IPP) software was used to analyze the front face photos taken by VISIA-CR under natural light, and SPSS 22.0 statistical software was applied to perform correlation analysis and factor analysis between indicators. Finally a mathematical model was established to objectively determine the lipstick color persistence and to establish a grading map. The results show that in the objective evaluation of lipstick image data, the color and uniformity of the lipstick are the main factors influencing the calculation of makeup retention index. The established lipstick retention grading map divides the durability of lipstick into 6 levels. The retention rate of level 1, level 3 and level 6 are 100%, 89% and 15%, respectively. And the makeup retention rate decreases as the level increases. The research results can provide technical support for the determination of lipstick makeup retention. It can also be used for market development and consumer market research. The atlas gives an objective and quantitative judgment on lipstick rentention ability. The subjective judgment of the level of lipstick makeup removal will be affected by the surrounding environment and personal subjective consciousness. The model can be applied to judge the level of lipstick makeup removal by collecting relevant index data. In the future, it is interesting to explore other color lipstick models, such as orange, brown, pink, etc. This experimental method has laid a solid foundation for the experimental research and data analysis of lipstick.

Key words: lipstick, makeup retention rate, persistence, grading map

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658