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日用化学工业（中英文）

日用化学工业 ›› 2021, Vol. 51 ›› Issue (12): 1192-1201.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.12.005

• 开发与应用 • 上一篇    下一篇

一种抗光老化组合物的药效学研究及凝胶面膜的制备

吴淇1,金鑫1,杨小倩1,郅慧1,吴楠2,*(),张辉1,*()   

  1. 1.长春中医药大学 吉林省人参科学研究院,吉林 长春 130117
    2.吉林省东北亚生物科技有限公司,吉林 长春 130000
  • 收稿日期:2021-03-29 修回日期:2021-12-01 出版日期:2021-12-22 发布日期:2021-12-21
  • 通讯作者: 吴楠,张辉

Pharmacodynamic study of an anti-photoaging composition and preparation of a gel mask

Wu Qi1,Jin Xin1,Yang Xiaoqian1,Zhi Hui1,Wu Nan2,*(),Zhang Hui1,*()   

  1. 1. Changchun University of Traditional Chinese Medicine, Jilin Province Ginseng Science Research Institute, Changchun, Jilin 130117, China
    2. Jilin Province Northeast Asia Biotechnology Co., Ltd., Changchun, Jilin 130000, China
  • Received:2021-03-29 Revised:2021-12-01 Online:2021-12-22 Published:2021-12-21
  • Contact: Nan Wu,Hui Zhang

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摘要：

以人参皂苷、鹿茸肽、透明质酸钠和鳕鱼胶原蛋白为组合物,探究其抗光老化的功效,并制备凝胶面膜。通过紫外线（UVB）诱导人永生化角质细胞（HaCaT）和人真皮成纤维细胞（HDF-α）建立光损伤模型,MTT法测定不同质量浓度组合物对细胞活性的影响;酶联免疫法测定细胞上清液中超氧化物歧化酶（SOD）、谷胱甘肽过氧化物酶（GSH-Px）及基质金属蛋白酶（MMP-9）的含量。将该组合物制备成凝胶面膜,以卡波姆用量、载药量、pH值为考察因素,以综合评分为指标,利用响应面法优化其最佳工艺参数。实验结果表明,与模型组相比,50 μg/mL组合物可以显著提高HaCaT细胞和HDF-α细胞活性,增加SOD和GSH-Px的分泌水平,降低MMP-9的分泌水平,对HaCaT细胞和HDF-α细胞光损伤具有一定的保护作用。通过响应面法的实验优化,得到凝胶面膜的最优工艺参数为：卡波姆用量0.6%,载药量1.3 g,pH=6;按最优工艺参数制备的凝胶面膜外观光滑平整、均匀细腻、黏稠度适中、涂展性良好,为产品的进一步开发提供了基础研究。

关键词: 皮肤光损伤, 细胞活性, 响应面优化, 凝胶面膜

Abstract:

Ginsenosides, velvet antler peptides, sodium hyaluronate and cod collagen are used to make a composition to explore its anti-aging effect and prepare a gel mask. Through ultraviolet （UVB） induced human immortalized keratinocytes （HaCaT） and human dermal fibroblasts （HDF-α） to establish a light injury model, MTT method was used to determine the effects of different concentrations of compositions on cell viability, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay was used to determine the contents of superoxide dismutase （SOD）, glutathione peroxidase （GSH-Px） and matrix metalloproteinase （MMP-9） in the cell supernatant. The composition was prepared into a gel mask, and the carbomer dosage, drug loading, and pH value were used as the inspection factors, and the comprehensive score of the gel mask was used as the evaluation index. The response surface method was used to screen the optimal process parameters to obtain the best preparation process for the gel mask. The test results show that compared with the blank group, the cell viability of the model group is significantly reduced （P<0.01）. Compared with the model group, when the mass concentration of the composition reaches 50 μg/mL, the survival rate of HaCaT cells is 89.47%±1.81%, SOD content is （39.56±0.29） ng/mL, GSH-Px content is （41.62±0.40） ng/mL, MMP-9 content is （5.46±0.21） ng/mL. While the survival rate of HDF-α cells is 81.04%±4.09%, SOD content is （38.76±0.29） ng/mL, the content of GSH-Px is （44.28±0.05） ng/mL, and the content of MMP-9 is （4.91±0.13） ng/mL. Therefore, 50 μg/mL composition can significantly increase the activity of HaCaT cells and HDF-α cells, promote the secretion level of SOD and GSH-Px, reduce the secretion level of MMP-9, and it has a certain protective effect on HaCaT cells and HDF-α cells against light injury. Through the experimental optimization of the response surface method, the optimal process parameters of the gel mask are as follows: the dosage of carbomer is 0.6%, the drug loading is 1.3 g, and the pH=6. The gel mask prepared according to the optimal process parameters has a smooth appearance, uniformity and fineness, moderate viscosity, and good spreadability, which provides basic research for the further development of the product.

Key words: skin photodamage, cell activity, response surface optimization, gel mask

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658