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    The mechanism and symptoms of acne and the functions and types of acne skin care products
    HE Ling-ling,ZHANG Yi,GONG Qiu-jun,ZHANG Qing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (5): 336-342.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.05.010
    Abstract867)   HTML57)    PDF(pc) (815KB)(3585)       Save

    Acne is a kind of inflammatory skin disease which easily occurs on adolescent. Many factors can cause acne, including endocrine dyscrasia, abnormal keratinization and so on. The mechanism and symptoms of acne have been introduced, in which the symptoms include different clinical features, according to China acne treatment guide, and scar. The efficacy of anti-acne skin care products are introduced in detail based on the mechanism. Several types of skin care products are briefly introduced. It is necessary to choose proper functional products to cope with different symptoms. Finally, we are looking forward to the correct usage of products and the complement of acne mechanism.

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    Botanical cosmetic ingredients (VII)Research and development of plant antifungal
    Jingxuan Liu, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (3): 259-266.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.03.003
    Abstract141)   HTML15)    PDF(pc) (1458KB)(1223)       Save

    This paper describes skin fungi and fungal skin infections, and summarizes the antifungal mechanism and the corresponding drug targets of the bioactive compounds from plants. The active antifungal compounds from plants include polyphenols, alkaloids, flavonoids, terpenoids, steroids and essential oils, etc. The main antifungal mechanism is inhibition of fungal cell wall and cell membrane biosynthesis. The target of cell wall biosynthesis inhibition is via inhibiting the activities of β-glucan synthetase, chitin synthase and mannan synthase. And the target of cell membrane biosynthesis inhibition is via inhibiting the synthesis of the structural components, ergosterol and sphingolipids. By inhibiting ergosterol synthetase, serine palmitoyltransferase, ceramide synthase and myo-inositol phosphatidyl ceramide synthase, the active components from plants can also directly bind to ergosterol and sphingolipids and destruct the cell membrane. In addition, phenols, alkaloids, flavonoids, terpenoids and essential oils also target mitochondrion to display antifungal activity, by inducing reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation, inhibiting ATP biosynthesis and proton pumps, and disrupt the mitochondrial respiration and metabolic system. This paper has reviewed the antifungal mechanisms of bioactive compounds from plants, hoping to provide a reference for the applications of plant materials in cosmetics, for a better maintaining of skin health.

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    The efficacy of silymarin in dermatology and its application in cosmetics
    YANG Yan-yin,YANG Zhi-guo,HU Shi-guo,LI Yan,XUE Qiang,SUN Hua-fu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (4): 259-263.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.04.011
    Abstract930)   HTML27)    PDF(pc) (803KB)(2046)       Save

    The efficacy and mechanism of silymarin in dermatology were reviewed, including anti-light damage, antioxidant, delaying skin aging, whitening, hair protection, treatment of chloasma, rosacea and scar repair. The applications of silymarin in cosmetics were introduced, including sunscreen cream, essence cream, eye cream, lotion, mask, etc. A broader application of silymarin in cosmetics industry was also prospected.

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    Sensitive scalp and microecologic barrier
    REN Hui,TANG Xiao-qin,CHEN Ming-hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (9): 638-642.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.010
    Abstract569)   HTML26)    PDF(pc) (844KB)(1632)       Save

    This article reviews the recent studies on sensitive scalp and its relationship with microecological barriers, including the distribution of common microorganisms on the scalp, the interaction between microorganisms and scalp, and the importance of microecological barrier on sensitive scalp. This article discusses the pathway of the positive and negative effects of the microbial community on the scalp, and analyses the common symptoms of sensitive scalp and the corresponding changes of scalp microbiota.

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    Efficacy assessment for skin microecology/microbiome-modulating cosmetics
    Yumei Zheng, Rong Hu, Wenhai Wu, Liya Song, Wen Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1382-1390.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.013
    Abstract955)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1139KB)(949)       Save

    The in vitro and in vivo evaluation methods of microecological skin care products were summarized. Cosmetics can regulate skin microecological balance by directly changing the number, growth metabolism, community structure, and population effect of skin microorganisms, or by regulating skin immune response and improving skin physiological function. The number, growth and metabolism level, population effect of skin microorganisms and skin immune response status are often evaluated by in vitro method. Skin microbial diversity, community structure, and skin physiological state are often tested by human methods, combined with high-throughput sequencing technologies such as 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing, ITS amplicon sequencing, and shotgun metagenomic sequencing. Different evaluation methods have different dimensions and advantages. The in vitro method is more targeted and the test conditions are easy to control, but the model is too simple and lack of activity. In contrast, clinical trials are more holistic and in line with real use scenarios, but it is difficult to qualitative analyze the complex causal relationship among individuals, product use and microbiome changes. In the process of efficacy evaluation, the combination of in vitro and in vivo can complement the limitations of different evaluation methods to a certain extent, and can provide a more complete evidence chain for the efficacy evaluation of products.

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    Application prospect of six common Chinese herbal medicines inanti-hair loss products
    YUAN Yang-ming,ZENG Yan-sheng,MAO Shan-qiao
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (10): 674-680.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.10.008
    Abstract594)   HTML27)    PDF(pc) (1068KB)(1579)       Save

    The mechanism of hair loss was reviewed. The medicinal value of Zingiber officinale Roscoe, Anemarrhena asphodeloides, Carthamus tinctorius(L.), Panax ginseng(C. A. Mey.), Biota orientalis and Resina draconis was also analyzed. Finally, the application of these six Chinese herbal medicines in anti-hair loss products was prospected. The aim was to provide reference for the research of anti-hair loss products of Chinese herbal medicine.

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    Properties of polyglycerol fatty acid esters and its applications in cosmetics
    LIU Xiao-qing,LIU Yu-hang,CHEN Yu-yan,JIANG Li-gang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (2): 118-123.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.008
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    The synthesis, structure and properties of polyglycerol fatty acid esters were summarized, and the application of polyglycerol fatty acid esters in cosmetics was introduced, including makeup remover products, cleaning products, lotions, O/W creams, W/O creams and make up products. The development trend of polyglycerol fatty acid ester products and its broad application progress in the cosmetics industry were prospected.

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    Research progress of magnetic surfactants
    WANG Jun,ZHANG Chen-long,YANG Xu-zhao,BAI Ya-rong
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (6): 546-553.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.012
    Abstract620)   HTML30)    PDF(pc) (1089KB)(1209)       Save

    Magnetic surfactants are a kind of surfactants with both surface activity and magnetic response. The properties of the surfactants can be simply controlled by the “on” and “off” of external magnetic fields. The structure, synthesis, properties and application of magnetic surfactants are reviewed. The counterions with magnetic response and surface active ions can be combined by electrostatic attraction or complexation. Magnetic surfactants have better surface properties than nonmagnetic parent surfactants, such as lower surface tension and smaller cmc. The surface tension of aqueous solutions of magnetic surfactants can be further reduced by external magnetic field. The magnetic moment of a magnetic surfactant is mainly determined by metal ions, and the magnetic moment of alkyl trimethyl ammonium magnetic surfactant is greater than that of alkyl imidazole magnetic surfactant. Magnetic surfactants exhibit unique properties in drug delivery, microemulsion, nanomaterials and sterilization, which indicates that this kind of surfactants have good development prospect.

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    Simultaneously determination of monochloroacetic acid, dichloroacetic acid and glycollic acid in cocamidopropyl betaine by UPLC-Q-TOF-MS
    HUANG Fang,WANG Yu-qin,DENG Xin,XIE Shu-tong,HUANG Xiao-lan,WU Hui-qin
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (10): 694-698.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.10.011
    Abstract564)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (861KB)(801)       Save

    A method based on ultra-high performance liquid chromatography with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry(UPLC-Q-TOF-MS) had been developed for the simultaneous determination of monochloroacetic acid, dichloroacetic acid and glycollic acid in cocamidopropyl betaine surfactant. The samples were dissolved by water, then purified by solid phase extraction and separated by a core-shell sub-3 μm column Agilent Poroshell 120 EC-C18(3.0 mm×100 mm×2.7 μm) with a gradient elution of 0.1% formic acid and acetonitrile. Under electrospray ion source negative ion full scan mode, the extracted accurate ion was used to do qualitative and quantitative determination. The results show that the linearity of the three compounds is good in a certain concentration range, and the correlation coefficients are greater than 0.998.The average recovery of the three levels ranges from 71.1% to 92.2%, and the relative standard deviation(RSD) is less than 15%. The detection limits of the optimized method are 0.25 mg/kg for monochloroacetic acid, 0.025 mg/kg for dichloroacetic acid and10 mg/kg for glycollic acid.

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    Progress in research work with respect to Pickering emulsion
    LU Jia, TIAN Xiao-xiao, JIN Ye-ling, CHEN Jing, DING Shi-jie
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2014, 44 (8): 460-466.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2014.08.103
    Abstract676)      PDF(pc) (1480KB)(1257)       Save
    Stabilization mechanisms of Pickering emulsion,including mechanical barrier mechanism and three-dimensional viscoelastic particles network mechanism,were introduced.The current research work status about Pickering emulsion covering emulsion stabilized by spherical particles,emulsion stabilized by layered particles as well as various environmental stimuli (such as pH,temperature,electric fields,and magnetic fields et al.) responding type emulsion,were summarized.Meanwhile,the concerning applications of Pickering emulsion such as emulsion polymerization,functional material preparation,drug release,catalyst separation and recycling,were described.At last,the development trend of Pickering emulsion was prospected.
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    Fluorinated surfactants and fluoropolymers (Ⅺ) Perfluorocarbon fluids
    DOU Zeng-pei,ZHANG Tian-tian,XING Hang,XIAO Jin-xin
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (11): 615-621.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.11.002
    Abstract343)      PDF(pc) (828KB)(805)       Save
    Performance,development course,structure features,preparation and applications of perfluorocarbon fluids were introduced.Current market situation of perfluorocarbon fluids was discussed.Outlook for development of perfluorocarbon fluids in China was prospected.
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    Synthesis and properties of a series of Gemini surfactants with p-phenylenediamine as a spacer
    WANG Chen,XU Hu-jun
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (5): 293-297.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.05.003
    Abstract318)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (1043KB)(1030)       Save

    A series of novel Gemini surfactants C12, C16, and C18 with the hydrophobic groups of different lengths were synthesized with epichlorohydrin, N, N-dimethylalkyl amine and p-phenylenediamine as materials in two steps. The products were characterized by FT-IR and 1H NMR. The critical micelle concentration(cmc)and the corresponding surface tension(γcmc)of the phenylenediamine surfactants in aqueous solution were measured at 25 ℃ by surface tensiometer. The Krafft points and the emulsifying, foaming and antimicrobial properties of the aqueous solutions were also determined. The results show that the cmc of C12, C16 and C18 at 25 ℃ are 3.29×10 -3, 2.53×10 -4 and 3.14×10 -4 mol/L, respectively, and the γcmc are 28.24, 31.95 and 35.06 mN/m, respectively. The Krafft points of C12 and C16 are both below 0 ℃, and the Krafft point of C18 is 10 ℃. The foaming properties of C12 are better than those of C16 and C18. The emulsifying properties of C18 are better than those of C12 and C16. C12, C16 and C18 have shown excellent antimicrobial activities.

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    Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (XⅢ)Consumer use testing
    LIU Wei-Yi,ZHOU Lin,ZHAO Hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (6): 485-490.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.002
    Abstract5054)   HTML202)    PDF(pc) (965KB)(2128)       Save

    Cosmetic efficacy claims should have a scientific basis. Efficacy evaluation is one of the very important aspects for cosmetics, including human-body efficacy evaluation, laboratory test and consumer use test. Herein, relevant requirements for consumers to use test methods in “Cosmetics Efficacy Claim Evaluation Standards” have been introduced. Procedures of consumer use testing include asking questions, clarifying the required information, designing information collection methods, organizing and implementing data collection, sorting and analyzing data, reporting and interpreting survey results, etc. The preparation stage of consumer test needs to determine the selection and exclusion criteria of consumers, the number of consumers, complete the product safety evaluation, and determine the test plan. According to the purpose, the test method can be divided into qualitative test and quantitative test. According to the method, it can be divided into interview, questionnaire test and consumer diary. Data analysis methods can be divided into descriptive statistical analysis, regression analysis, and correlation analysis. Among them, methods of descriptive analysis are the most widely used, using general data, tabulation and graphs to make trend analysis, frequency analysis and dispersion degree analysis, etc. Finally, the functions, writing requirements and precautions of the report of consumer use testing, have been described, which can provide reference for the design of consumer use testing in cosmetic efficacy evaluation. In the future, consumer use testing will be closely linked with enterprises. It is an easy, efficient, and cost-effective testing method that is worthy of widespread adoption. In addition, it can also provide companies with more scientific and practical consumer information, and it can help companies develop markets, win consumers, and improve consumption levels, and avoid the blindness of corporate production. However, because there is no precise instrument for qualitative measurement, the data may be affected by consumer subjective factors, resulting in data that are not as objective as data from human-body efficacy evaluation test or laboratory test. To ensure the accuracy of the data to the greatest extent, it is necessary to grasp the selection of subjects, sample size, information collection method, organization and implementation of the experiment, statistical analysis of data, interpretation of results, etc. Thus it can provide scientific support for cosmetic efficacy claims and provide a reliable basis for product development and market positioning.

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    Process optimization and anti-aging, moisturizing and whitening effects of traditional Chinese medicine bi-directional fermentation broth
    Guo Fangyu, Han Tingting, Wang Xiaona, Chen Yurong, Wang Xiaomei, Yang Suzhen
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (5): 523-531.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.005
    Abstract291)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (1543KB)(689)       Save

    In this study, the bi-directional fermentation process of Chinese Ganoderma lucidum, Dendrobium officinale, Polygonatum chinensis and Tuberose was optimized, and the optimal fermentation broth was prepared. Activity inhibition, Aquaporin3 (AQP3) content, 2, 2’-diazo-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) free radical scavenging rate, 1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine (DPPH) free radical scavenging rate and melanin content in mouse melanin B16-F10 cells were measured. The results of the study find that the bi-directional fermentation broth of traditional Chinese medicine can significantly inhibit protein non-enzymatic glycosylation, tyrosinase activity, and melanin content in mouse B16-F10 cells (P<0.05). It can also significantly scavenge DPPH and ABTS free radicals, and upregulate AQP3 protein expression in keratinocytes (P<0.01). Therefore, this paper concludes that the bi-directional fermentation broth of traditional Chinese medicine screened by optimizing the bi-directional fermentation process has a significant effect on inhibiting protein non-enzymatic glycosylation, tyrosinase activity and melanin content of mouse melanin B16-F10 cells, upregulating AQP3 protein expression, and scavenging ABTS free radicals and DPPH free radicals in vitro. It provides a new direction and basis for the development of cosmetic raw materials.

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    Mechanism of skin melanin formation and its intervention
    Zhuo-yi CHEN,Xiao-ying LIU,Ya-ting ZHENG,Ting HONG,Tan-lin LIU,Zhi-yun DU
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (2): 113-117.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.02.010
    Abstract1064)   HTML50)    PDF(pc) (942KB)(1483)       Save

    The mechanism of skin melanin formation is closely related to the study of whitening. Therefore, the formation mechanism of skin melanin and its regulation at the cellular level were reviewed. The intervention mechanism of melanin, including the synthesis pathway, transportation pathway, decomposition and metabolism, and the intervention and regulation of internal and external factors were also deeply analyzed. Finally, the future research trend of skin melanin was prospected.

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    Study on lipid polymorphism in hair follicles of early white hair and physiological white hair in women
    MA Yu-chen,WANG He-cong,LI Hui-ke,HE Cong-fen
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (4): 255-262.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.04.008
    Abstract507)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (989KB)(624)       Save

    The lipidomics method was used to systematically analyze the difference in lipid composition of black and white hair between early white hair and physiological white hair females, and the relationship between lipid composition and age of female white hair follicle. The aim of the study was to prevent female white hair in different age stages, and to provide new ideas of the research and development of lipid added hair product. UPLC-QTOF-MS combined with OPLS-DA (orthogonal partial least squares discriminant analysis) model was used to analyze the difference of hair follicle lipids in different samples. There were significant differences in the contents of glycerol diester (DG) and phosphatidylserine (PS) between black hair (Y-B) and white hair (Y-W). The content of PS in Y-W was higher than that in Y-B, while that in DG was on the contrary. In physiological white hair, the difference of PS between black hair (O-B) and white hair (O-W) was the most significant, followed by triglyceride (TG), and the content of O-W was higher than that of O-B. In physiological white hair (O-W) and early white hair (Y-W), the difference of PS content was the most significant, and the content of O-W was higher than that of Y-W. The results showed that the content of PS in white hair was higher than that in black hair, and the content of physiological white hair was higher than that in early white hair. It was speculated that the increase of PS may be related to the occurrence of white hair; DG had a greater impact on early gray hair, while TG had a greater impact on physiological white hair, which had certain reference significance for the research and development of targeted lipid-added hair products.

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    Water-in-oil (W/O) Pickering emulsions stabilized by bio-based particles
    Weijie Jiang,Hang Jiang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (2): 142-153.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.02.002
    Abstract87)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (4494KB)(270)       Save

    Given its broad range of applications, water-in-oil (W/O) Pickering emulsions have garnered huge interest in recent years. Current research often focuses on non-bio-derived particles, which lack in biocompatibility, biodegradability, and sustainability, failing to meet the growing demand for “green” products. Consequently, using bio-derived particles as emulsifiers to prepare W/O Pickering emulsions has become a hotspot. This article aims to review and update the latest advancements in the field of bio-derived particles-based W/O Pickering emulsions. It first discusses the mechanisms of W/O Pickering emulsions and the influence of particle characteristics on emulsion, such as wettability, concentration, size, and shape. Subsequently, it highlights the progress of emulsifiers from various bio-derived sources, including cellulose, starch, lignin, Zein, polyphenolic crystals, and triterpenoids. These particles are ideal emulsifier for constructing “green” W/O Pickering emulsions. Finally, it further analyzes the applications of bio-derived particles-based W/O Pickering emulsions in the food industry, porous materials, interfacial biocatalysis, and microbial cultivation, emphasizing their importance in sustainable development and environmental protection concepts.

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    Progress in research work field with respect to theory and application of microemulsion
    MAO Xue-bin,DU Zhi-ping,TAI Xiu-mei,LIU Xiao-ying
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (11): 648-653.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.11.008
    Abstract590)      PDF(pc) (851KB)(1209)       Save
    Similarities and differences between microemulsion and ordinary emulsion were summarized.Mechanism for formation of microemulsion as well as the research methods for structure and properties of microemulsions were introduced.The applications of microemulsion in different areas were summarized,and its application foreground was prospected.
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    Studies on the structure-function relationship of polyether-type demulsifiers based on density functional theory
    Haifeng He, Limei Sun, Fengbin Yang, Lingfeng Liu, Gang Wang, Bin Yu, Da Wu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (5): 499-506.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.001
    Abstract102)   HTML14)    PDF(pc) (2691KB)(299)       Save

    The use of chemical demulsifiers in the treatment process of crude oil dehydration can greatly improve work efficiency and save costs. Among them, polyether demulsifiers are the most widely used, and studies on their structure-function relationship are crucial for the development and application of new demulsifiers. In this work, the demulsification effects of several polyether demulsifiers and reverse demulsifiers were evaluated and compared. Then corresponding model molecules were selected according to the structural characteristics of asphaltene molecules and the categories of polyether demulsifiers and reverse demulsifiers. Their optimal molecular geometries and electrostatic potential distribution diagrams were obtained through the B3LYP/6-31G basis set in density functional theory (DFT). The interaction energy between a polyether demulsifier model molecule and an asphaltene model molecule, and the interaction energy between a polyether demulsifier model molecule and a water molecule, were both calculated using the functional M062X/6-31G basis set for several kinds of polyether demulsifiers. Combined with the evaluation results of demulsification performance of polyether demulsifiers and reverse demulsifiers, their structure-function relationships were analyzed. It shows that the difference in the demulsification performance of demulsifiers deduced from theoretical chemical calculation is consistent with their demulsification effects experimentally measured. Those polyether demulsifiers with branched structure and higher polymerization degree have better demulsification effects than those with linear structure and lower polymerization degree. In addition, polyether-grafted phenolic resin has better demulsification effect than polyether-grafted phenol-amine resin. Among the inverse demulsifiers investigated, polyol polyether inverse demulsifier has the best demulsification effect. Therefore, it is feasible to study the structure-function relationship of demulsifiers with DFT method, which can provide theoretical basis and reference for the preparation and selection of new demulsifiers in future.

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    Effect of sandalwood extract on olfactory receptor and its clinical efficacy
    Yueming Jiang, Wenjia Lu, Xin Qu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 828-835.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.010
    Abstract92)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (3769KB)(252)       Save

    Olfactory receptors (OR) are a class of membrane proteins that can specifically bind to external chemicals (ligands), thereby inducing intracellular signal transmission. In this work, the impact of aging on OR, the mechanism of sandalwood extract and its clinical efficacies were studied. The relationship between age and OR was studied using reconstructed human epidermis (RHEs) at different ages. The models of senescent RHE and hair follicle dermal papilla cells were established to study the activation of OR2AT4 by sandalwood extract. The role of sandalwood extract in promoting the production of anagen-prolonging factor IGF-1 was studied using hair follicle dermal papilla cell model. The results of in vitro test showed that, the expression of OR2AT4 decreased with age. The level of OR2AT4 in senescent RHE was significantly increased by 46% after treated with 1% sandalwood extract. In addition, 0.002% sandalwood extract could promote the production of IGF-1 in hair follicle dermal papilla cell model, which was significantly increased by 27%. The clinical results demonstrated that, the skin water content, skin tone, skin firmness and wrinkles were all improved after using a cream containing 2% sandalwood extract for 28 days. Hair density was significantly improved after using a scalp serum containing 2% sandalwood for 86 days. In conclusion, sandalwood extract could activate the expression of OR2AT4 and IGF-1 to improve skin aging signs and treat hair loss issue induced by hair follicle aging.

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    Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care (Ⅷ)Method for in vitro evaluation of hair growth prevention and research progress of plant anti-stripping raw materials
    Chen Xianqi,Ma Ling,Chen Timson,Chang Kuan,Wang Jing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 873-881.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.003
    Abstract299)   HTML28)    PDF(pc) (1619KB)(561)       Save

    With the development of science and technology and the improvement of people’s living standards, the public’s aesthetic has gradually improved. People are more and more concerned about the appearance, especially the hair, and the prevention and hair growth have become the focus of everyone’s attention. Alopecia refers to a kind of physiological phenomenon that hair falls off, which is divided into physiological alopecia and pathological alopecia. Hair follicle (HF) plays an important role in the formation and growth of hair morphology, and different cell signaling pathways and growth factors are involved in the regulation of hair follicle growth cycle. Based on the human dermal papilla cell (HDPCs) model, several stress-inducing models in vitro were reviewed in this paper. Through the changes of markers in the models, the efficacy of anti-detachment materials was investigated and screened. In addition, several common plant anti-hair loss materials were listed, and their mechanism of action in hair follicles was summarized, hoping to provide reference for future research on anti-hair loss theory and raw material development.

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    Study on the synthesis of methyl benzoate from benzoic acid catalyzed by dual-core piperazine-based ionic liquids
    Xiang Li, Hui Yin, Yuyang Kuang, Ning Liu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (5): 514-519.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.003
    Abstract65)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (1588KB)(268)       Save

    Benzoates are important intermediates for preparing perfume essence and artificial essential oils. For conventional esterification of benzoic acid with methanol, protonic acids such as HCl, H2SO4, have been used, which is harmful to equipment and shows low product yield. Using ionic liquids as solvents or catalysts can make the reaction conditions stable, recyclable, and environment-friendly, and lead to high product yield. In this work, a series of sulfonic-acid-functionalized dual-core piperazine-based ionic liquids, such as 1, 4-bis [N-methyl-N-(3-sulfopropyl)]piperazine bis(p-toluenesulfonate) ([BMSP][PSA]), 1, 4-bis [N-methyl-N-(3-sulfopropyl)] piperazine dimethanesulfonate ([BMSP][MSA]), and 1, 4-bis [N-methyl-N-(3-sulfopropyl)] piperazine bis(hydrosulfate) ([BMSP][SA]), were synthesized by a two-step process. The molecular structure of[BMSP][PSA] was characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and TGA-DTG. It exhibited good thermal stability. The results showed that the three sulfonic-acid-functionalized dual-core piperazine-based ionic liquids had excellent catalytic activity, among which the synthesized [BMSP][PSA] exhibited the best catalytic activity. The conversion of benzoic acid reached 97.6% under the conditions of alcohol-acid ratio of 16∶1, reaction temperature of 70 ℃, reaction time of 3 h, and catalyst dosage of 3 mmol. The conversion for esterification still reached 93.9% after 4 cycles with the catalyst, which showed excellent catalytic activity. Therefore, it was a good candidate of green catalyst for industrial production.

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    Preparation and properties of long-chain alkyl xylene sulfonic acid
    QIAO Jian-fen,LI Jian-bo
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (4): 233-237.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.04.004
    Abstract623)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (1452KB)(871)       Save

    Long-chain alkyl xylene sulfonic acid was synthesized from C15~19 alkyl xylene by SO3 bubbling sulfonation and characterized by FT-IR and 1H NMR. The sulfonation conditions of long-chain alkyl xylene sulfonic acid were investigated by single factor test with its mass fraction in the product as the index. When SO3 reacted with alkyl xylene at a mole ratio of 1.2∶1, sulfonation temperature of (45±3) oC, volume fraction of SO3 vapor of 8%, aging time of 20 min, and hydrolysis time of 10 min, the mass fraction of long-chain alkyl xylene sulfonic acid in the product could exceed 94.5%. The surface activity of long-chain alkyl xylene sulfonate was investigated by the measurement of static surface tension and dynamic contact angle. The results indicated that, the critical micelle concentration (cmc) and surface tension at cmc (γcmc) of long-chain alkyl xylene sulfonate were 1.08×10 -2 mmol/L and 31.45 mN/m at 298 K, respectively. When the concentration of long-chain alkyl xylene sulfonate was higher than 4 cmc, it showed wettability to paraffin film.

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    Research progress in the application of traditional tea and Non-Camellia Tea in toothpaste
    LIU Jing-xi,HAO Er-wei,DU Zheng-cai,QIN Jian-feng,HOU Xiao-tao,DENG Jia-gang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (3): 227-234.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.010
    Abstract332)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (922KB)(788)       Save

    The application of traditional tea and Non-Camellia Tea in toothpaste in recent years was reviewed. The article introduced the efficacy and functional ingredients of traditional tea and Non-Camellia Tea in oral care, as well as the toothpaste products and intellectual property rights of toothpaste products based on them. The article summarized and prospected the application status of traditional tea and Non-Camellia Tea in toothpaste, and provided a reference for the further development of traditional tea and Non-Camellia Tea toothpaste products.

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    Synthesis and emulsification properties of hydrophobically modified chitosan
    Meng Xinyu,Liu Huan,Hu Xueyi,Xia Yongmei
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (8): 705-710.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.002
    Abstract689)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (2397KB)(601)       Save

    As a natural polysaccharide, chitosan (CS) has excellent biocompatibility, biodegradability and renewability. Chitosan has different molecular weight and deacetylation degree. However, its strong hydrophilicity limits its application in food, cosmetics and other fields. Therefore, hydrophobic modification of chitosan can decrease the strong hydrophilicity and expand its application as emulsifier. That is, hydrophobic groups are introduced into its hydrophilic skeleton. However, the safety of chemical modifications needs to be considered. Maillard reaction does not use any chemical cross-linking agent, and the reaction process is simple and the products are biocompatible. As one of the main hydrophobic proteins, casein can be used to improve the amphiphilicity of polysaccharides. After enzymatic hydrolysis, casein hydrophobic peptides (CHP) can provide peptides with more hydrophobic groups. In this study, Maillard reaction was used to modify chitosan with CHP. The optimized conditions of Maillard reaction were temperature of 60 ℃, relative humidity of 75%, reaction time of three days, and the mass ratio of CHP to CS of 1∶3. The grafting degree was calculated through the content of free amino groups. The grafting degree for this series obtained was from 3.10% to 15.08%. In addition, the browning index increased as Maillard reaction was going on. Infrared spectroscopy and fluorescence spectroscopy were used for structural analysis. The vibration absorption peak of protein side chain changed after the reaction. The typical Schiff base was synthesized after Maillard reaction. Amadori product was formed after cyclization and rearrangement. The CHP-modified chitosan can stabilize emulsion. An O/W emulsion (50% olive oil in water) stabilized with 1% CHP-modified chitosan was prepared. The emulsion stabilized with CS breaks at the 7th day. In contrast, the emulsion stabilized with CHP-modified chitosan has large Zeta potential which provides large electrostatic repulsion between droplets, inhibiting demulsification, flocculation or coalescence of the emulsion. The particle size and particle size distribution of the emulsion have little change during the storage period. The emulsion has excellent long-term storage stability in 28 days.

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    New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics (I)Liquid crystal emulsion system
    Zhou Kangfu, Yan Jiayi, Shang Yazhuo
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (9): 1008-1017.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.003
    Abstract408)   HTML31)    PDF(pc) (4080KB)(491)       Save

    Liquid crystal emulsion system is a new type of emulsion system, in which the surfactant (emulsifier) molecules locate at the oil/water interface and form a long-range ordered and short-range disordered liquid crystal structure (usually lamellar liquid crystal). The lamellar liquid crystals formed by emulsifier are similar to the skin stratum corneum lipid structure, which enable it a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics, biomedicine, etc. With the further understanding of the liquid crystal and the gradual recognition of the advantages of liquid crystal emulsion products, the liquid crystal emulsion system has been used in high-end cosmetics widely in the past few years. In this paper, the liquid crystal and the liquid crystal emulsion system are introduced firstly and then the factors of affecting the formation of liquid crystal in emulsions are summarized. The properties of liquid crystal emulsion systems including the stability, water locking property, sustained-release property, penetration enhancing property as well as the skin sense are also provided. On this basis, the application of liquid crystal emulsion system in the cosmetic field is expounded. Furthermore, the novel liquid crystal emulsion system developed in recent years, including crystal encapsulated in liquid crystal emulsion and multiple liquid crystal emulsion are introduced. Finally, the limitations of the application of liquid crystal emulsion system in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, which may provide necessary reference for the development and effective application of liquid crystal emulsion system.

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    Preparation and performance evaluation of oil soluble viscosity reducer for heavy oil fields in Canada
    Xiao Sa,Sun Yubao,Wang Shaohua,Wu Chunzhou,Shu Zhan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (9): 832-838.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.004
    Abstract288)   HTML19)    PDF(pc) (1403KB)(1876)       Save

    M oilfield in Canada is characterized by low temperature, shallow buried depth, high viscosity of crude oil, less water cut and poor fluidity. Due to the high content of resin and asphaltene, it is very difficult to recover the crude oil by conventional mining method. It is necessary to reduce the viscosity of the crude oil from M oilfield in Canada. Oil soluble viscosity reduction technology has stable viscosity reduction effect on heavy oil and saves the steps of produced fluid demulsification and dehydration. In recent years, the research on oil soluble viscosity reducer at home and abroad has developed rapidly. Due to the great differences in the composition and characteristics of heavy oil in different regions, the adaptability to oil soluble viscosity reducer is different. According to the characteristics of heavy oil in M oilfield, an oil soluble viscosity reducer PH-OV was developed. The results show that the optimum composition of PH-OV is 4% esterified polyether +15% diethylene glycol dibutyl ether +81% aromatic solvent oil. When the dosage of PH-OV is 3%, the viscosity reduction rate can reach 85.2%; when the dosage of PH-OV is more than 5%, the viscosity reduction rate can reach more than 80% within 14-80 ℃. The SEM chart show that the viscosity reducer PH-OV can effectively destroy the aggregation structure of crude oil, disperse resin and asphaltene, inhibit the formation of macromolecular aggregates and reduce viscosity. With the increase of water content of crude oil, the viscosity reduction rate increases. When the water content is 60%, the viscosity reduction rate reaches 98.5%. The viscosity reducer can effectively reduce the yield value of crude oil, and the viscosity reduction performance of crude oil can be stable for more than 168 h. With the increase of viscosity reducer, the yield value of crude oil decreases significantly, which can effectively reduce the initial starting pressure of crude oil. The efficiency of PH-OV assisting cold water flooding can reach 30.03%, which is 12.86% higher than that of cold water flooding. The oil soluble viscosity reducer PH-OV is suitable for cold recovery of heavy oil in M oilfield, and has the potential to effectively enhance oil recovery.

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    Progress in research work field with respect to interaction between Gemini surfactants and hydrophobic associated water soluble polymers
    MEI Ping,ZHENG Hui-ling,CHEN Wu,YANG Yu-lei,CHENG Li,ZHANG Peng
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (10): 596-604.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.10.010
    Abstract261)      PDF(pc) (956KB)(690)       Save
    Classification and features of Gemini surfactants,as well as the structure,synthesis and characteristics of hydrophobic associated water soluble polymer (HAWSP) were briefed.Progress in research work field with respect to interaction between Gemini surfactants and HAWSP were reviewed emphatically,including the surface activity,oil-water interface performance,rheological performance of interfacial layer,rheological performance,micro aggregates and their thermodynamics,etc.of the blend systems.Moreover,the applications of such blends in some fields and the trend of research work were prospected.
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    Change in total flavonoid content of hawthorn leaves after adverse stress treatment and the molecular mechanism on myocardial ischemia in rats
    Ren Jiejie
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (4): 430-436.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.009
    Abstract126)   HTML3)    PDF(pc) (1352KB)(368)       Save

    The total flavonoids in different varieties of hawthorn leaves were determined and the molecular mechanism of the effects on myocardial ischemia in rats was discussed. The seedlings of different varieties of hawthorn trees with good growth and uniform size were selected, and the total flavonoids of hawthorn leaves were extracted by organic solvent extraction. The content was determined by HPLC and ultraviolet spectrophotometry. The antioxidant capacity was determined by ultraviolet spectrophotometry. The total flavonoids were then applied to myocardial ischemic model rats, and the molecular mechanism was determined by electrocardiography, biochemical index detection and Real-Time PCR technology. The results showed that, the content of total flavonoids in the hawthorn leaves of “Dajinxing” and the antioxidant capacity thereof were significantly higher than other varieties; the total flavonoids in hawthorn leaves could significantly improve the ST segment status, biochemical indexes and hemodynamic parameters of ECG in acute myocardial ischemic rats; total flavonoids of hawthorn leaves could significantly affect the expression of CaSR, c-fos and Cyt-C genes in myocardial ischemic rats. In conclusion, among the four varieties of hawthorn leaves, the content of total flavonoids and antioxidant capacity of “Dajinxing” hawthorn leaves were significantly higher than those of other groups, which could significantly improve the state of myocardial ischemic rats, providing a theoretical basis for the selection of high-quality crude drug sources in future.

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    Safety evaluation progress of three kinds of arbutin and its current status in cosmetics regulations
    Jiaojiao Wu, Wei Zhang, Yanchao Wang, Xinrong Pei
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 853-858.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.013
    Abstract75)   HTML2)    PDF(pc) (1132KB)(177)       Save

    α-arbutin, β-arbutin and deoxyarbutin have good whitening effect, but they are easy to produce hydroquinone under certain conditions, which has the risk of exogenous ochronosis, achromodermia, sensitization, and carcinogenesis. So their safety has attracted much attention at home and abroad. The author summarizes the safety evaluation reports of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and deoxyarbutin by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) of the European Union in recent years, as well as the supervision situation of cosmetics regulations in different countries and regions, in order to understand the safety evaluation status of arbutin and provide references for the use and supervision of arbutin in cosmetics in China.

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    Dual-responsive oil-in-water emulsions co-stabilized by a nonionic-anionic Bola surfactant and silica nanoparticles
    Pei Liu, Ting Pan, Xiaomei Pei, Binglei Song, Jianzhong Jiang, Zhenggang Cui, Bernard P. Binks
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (1): 1-15.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.001
    Abstract126)   HTML18)    PDF(pc) (5178KB)(253)       Save

    A smart nonionic-anionic Bola surfactant was synthesized which could be switched between nonionic form CH3O (EO) 5-R11-COOH (pHKa=6.6) and Bola form CH3O(EO) 5-R11-COONa (pH>pKa) as triggered by pH. Individually, the nonionic/Bola forms behaved as poor/good emulsifiers, respectively. When the nonionic form was mixed with silica nanoparticles, they could co-stabilize n-decane-in-water Pickering emulsions, where the silica nanoparticles were hydrophobized in situ to be surface-active by adsorption of the surfactant via hydrogen bonding. The Pickering emulsions could be switched between stable and unstable statuses many times as triggered by either pH or temperature. On the other hand, the Bola form could co-stabilize oil-in-dispersion emulsions with silica nanoparticles, which were resistant to heating but were sensitive to the salt formed during pH alternation. However, in contrast to the CH3 (EO) 7-R11-COONa which could completely transfer to aqueous phase after demulsification, its analogue with shorter EO chain, i.e., CH3 (EO) 5-R11-COONa, was still partially oil-soluble either in nonionic form or in bola form, suggesting a significant effect of EO number on the performance of these novel smart surfactants.

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    Synthetic musk in daily chemicals
    ZHOU Jing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (9): 530-538.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.09.009
    Abstract412)      PDF(pc) (873KB)(1017)       Save
    The classification and the typical compounds of synthetic musk were briefed.The research work results with respect to toxicity of synthetic musk were reviewed.Regulations for the limitations of application of synthetic musk in cosmetics executed in China and the European Union were compared.The main pretreatment and instrument detection methods for synthetic musk applied in cosmetics were described and the development trends were prospected.
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    Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care (Ⅲ)Mechanical properties of human hair
    Wu Yuwen, Bian Marina, Yue Zoe, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (3): 260-270.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.03.003
    Abstract445)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (2916KB)(581)       Save

    The strength of mechanical properties is one of the most important criteria to measure the health conditioner of the hair. In healthy hair bundles, hair fiber processes excellent mechanical properties, while damaged hair bundles can break during daily combing. However, hair fiber is not a homogeneous material, so it is complicated to characterize its mechanical properties systematically and scientifically. Based on this point, this paper summarizes the testing methods of hair mechanical properties and the meaning of tensile curves, describes the influence of hair internal structure and composition on tensile properties, lists several factors affecting hair tensile properties and introduces several commercially available ingredients to enhance hair tensile properties and their mechanisms of action. This review is expected to provide a reference for the development of new hair care actives and products with hair strengthening effect.

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    Determination of four polyphenols and study on antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of extracts from callus of Eryngium maritimum L.
    Xue Xiao, Huirong Zhang, Shuowen Li, Sunhua Li, Miaomiao Guo, Li Li
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (1): 57-64.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.008
    Abstract87)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (1499KB)(207)       Save

    The preparation of extracts from callus of Eryngium maritimum was conducted by hot water reflux method. A method for simultaneous determination of rosmarinic acid, cryptochlorogenic acid, hyperoside, quercetin-3-O-(6''-O-acetyl)-β-D-glucopyranoside in the callus extract of Eryngium maritimum was established based on high performance liquid chromatography. The scavenging ability of the extracts on DPPH and ABTS free radicals were determined. The screening samples were also assayed by the CCK-8 method to determine the concentration of drug administration and a model of HaCaT cell inflammation induced by Cutibacterium acnes was established to evaluate its anti-inflammatory efficacy. The results show that the extracts contain the highest amount of cryptochlorogenic acid at 5.23 mg/g, and the contents of rosmarinic acid, quercetin-3-O-(6''-O-acetyl)-β-D-glucopyranoside and hyperin were 1.30, 0.50 and 0.08 mg/g, respectively. The extracts display antioxidant and anti-inflammatory abilities. The IC50 values of the extracts on DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging ability are 0.323 9 and 0.296 5 mg/mL, respectively, and also have significant inhibitory effects on the secretion of IL-1β and IL-8 in HaCaT cells induced by Cutibacterium acnes P<0.05).

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    Efficacy study of antisebum GMP in the treatment of acne vulgaris
    Yi-na LU,Guang-yin WANG,Hong XIE,Zhi-yong XIE
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (1): 29-33.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.01.007
    Abstract1148)   HTML27)    PDF(pc) (1257KB)(1052)       Save

    The solution of antisebum GMP which consists of the extracts from the peels of Garcinia Mangostana, Magnolia Officinalis, and Punica Granatum has been used to study its efficacy in anti-lipid peroxidation, oil control, anti-bacteria and anti-inflammation. The results show that GMP has significant inhibitory effect on lipid peroxidation at the mass concentration of 1%. After the treatment of sebaceous gland cells with GMP (0.1%) for 24 h, the mRNA expression levels of insulin like receptor (IGF1R) and peroxisome proliferator activated receptor (PPARγ) can be remarkably down-regulated to reduce the intracellular lipid synthesis in the cells. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of GMP on Propionibacterium acnes is 0.03%. On the model of macrophage inflammation induced by Propionibacterium acnes, GMP can also inhibit the expression of interleukin 6 (IL6), prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and nitric oxide (NO) in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore, as a natural active ingredient, GMP can play a role in anti-acne aiming at the various factors in the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris.

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    A study of alleviative effects of Chlamydomonas nivalis extract on skin damage caused by UVB
    LUO Wen-qian,HUANG Guo-meng,ZHANG Qian-hua,DENG Wen-juan,LIN Li,DU Zhi-yun
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (7): 441-445.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.004
    Abstract738)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (1793KB)(805)       Save

    The protective effects of Chlamydomonas nivalis extract on NIH-3T3 cells under the oxidative stress and skin photodamage induced by UVB were evaluated. The cytotoxicity of the extract and the protective effect against hydrogen peroxide on NIH-3T3 cells were evaluated by MTT method. Chlamydomonas nivalis extract was applied to the dorsal skin of mice after UVB irradiation daily for 28 days to complete the photoaging model. Moreover, the skin was analyzed by H&E staining and Masson staining, then the expression of IL-1, IL-6 and TNF-α was analyzed by immunohistochemistry(IHC). The results show that Chlamydomonas nivalis extract exhibits no obvious cytotoxicity for NIH-3T3 cells and increases the cell vitality under the oxidative stress. In animal experiment, the results of H&E staining show that UVB irradiation induces epidermis thickening and the collagen decreasing. The extract recovers the epidermis thickness and the collagen is increased. The increase of TNF-α and interleukin including IL-1 and IL-6 were induced by UVB, as shown in IHC results. The extract is shown to decrease the expression quantities of IL-1, IL-6 and TNF-α. Chlamydomonas nivalis extract protects the NIH-3T3 cells from oxidative stress induced by hydrogen peroxide and repairs the skin damage from UVB irradiation. It is speculated that the alleviative efficacy of Chlamydomonas nivalis extract may work by regulating oxidative stress and inflammation.

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    Performance and applications of surfactants (Ⅴ) Liposome and its applications
    SU Peng-quan, ZHAO Li, XU Bao-cai, ZHOU Ya-wen
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2014, 44 (5): 252-256.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2014.05.056
    Abstract381)      PDF(pc) (789KB)(598)       Save
    The concept of liposome was introduced briefly,and then the preparation methods were summarized.The characteristics of drug carrying and principles of targeting were described,followed by several novel kinds of liposome.Finally,the applications in targeted drug delivery were summarized.
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    Corrosion inhibition effect of a quaternary ammonium surfactant containing thiadiazole on Q235 steel
    Wang Junxia,Liu Jianhua,Lu Xiaomeng,Sun Yongqiang,Hu Zhiyong,Zhu Hailin
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (8): 797-804.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.001
    Abstract272)   HTML23)    PDF(pc) (1632KB)(698)       Save

    The surface activity of a quaternary ammonium surfactant (MTOTB) in 1 mol/L HCl solution was investigated by surface tension method. The corrosion inhibition performance of MTOTB and 2-mercapto-5-methyl-1, 3, 4-thiadiazole (MMTD) for Q235 carbon steel in 1 mol/L HCl solution was analyzed by electrochemical test, weight loss and surface morphology analysis. The results show that, the critical micelle concentration is 0.36 mmol/L for MTOTB in 1 mol/L HCl solution. The corrosion inhibition rate can reach 95.34% for the carbon steel soaked in 1 mol/L HCl solution for 48 h when adding 0.5 mmol/L MTOTB, while for MMTD it is 78.34% under the same condition, suggesting that MTOTB owns better corrosion inhibition performance than MMTD. The results of SEM-EDS show that MTOTB can adsorb on the surface of carbon steel and effectively inhibit the corrosion of carbon steel sheet.

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    Oil-in-water high internal phase emulsions solely stabilized by modified oil ethoxylates
    Yanan Han, Xiumei Tai, Ying Liu, Tao Geng, Yanyun Bai, Lingxiao Guo
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (12): 1392-1397.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.005
    Abstract67)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (2947KB)(218)       Save

    A series of oil-in-water high internal phase emulsions with volume fraction 86% of oil phase of sweet almond oil were prepared by using 1.5 wt% modified oil ethoxylates as the single emulsifier. The effects of different EO addition numbers and carbon chain lengths on the particle size and rheological properties of emulsions were studied by optical microscope and rheometer. The results showed that, the emulsifying ability first increased and then decreased with the increase of EO number for high internal phase emulsion stabilized with modified shea butter. The high internal phase emulsions prepared with coconut oil ethoxylate and palm kernel oil ethoxylate both with carbon chain length of C12-14 showed similar viscosity and storage modulus (G'). However, the viscosity and G' of the high internal phase emulsion prepared with shea butter ethoxylate with carbon chain length of C16-18 were higher. In addition, the differences between different samples were explained from the perspective of EO number distribution and carbon chain distribution. All the high internal phase emulsions thus prepared had excellent stability and could be potentially used in cosmetics, food, drug delivery, encapsulation materials, etc.

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    Analysis of flavonoid metabolic pathways of different varieties of Phalaenopsis and their molecular mechanism
    Cheng Ling,Wang Jianping
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1293-1299.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.005
    Abstract1570)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1397KB)(361)       Save

    High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to study the flavonoid metabolism pathways of 18 Phalaenopsis. A HPLC technology was established to analyze the pathway of flavonoid metabolism (regulate color). Fluorescence quantitative PCR (Real-Time PCR) was used to further analyze the expression level of key genes in Phalaenopsis flavonoid synthesis pathway, and an Agrobacterium-mediated transient transformation of Phalaenopsis was used to obtain transgenic strains. Phalaenopsis HPLC separation technology can successfully separate 29 components, which is quite different from other species of grape and hyacinth. Real-Time PCR analysis of the key genes in the flavonoid synthesis pathway of different species of Phalaenopsis finds that the temporal and spatial expression patterns of Chalcone synthase (CHS), Flavonol-3-hydroxylase (F3H) and Chalcone isomerase (CHI) of different species are basically the same. The key enzyme gene RNAi interference vector is constructed by Agrobacterium-mediated method to transform Phalaenopsis transiently. The interference expression of key enzyme genes in the flavonoid synthesis pathway will reduce the color of Phalaenopsis. In conclusion, the HPLC research method of Phalaenopsis flavonoid metabolism pathway is established, and its molecular mechanism is preliminary studied, which provids a theoretical and practical basis for revealing the color regulation mechanism of Phalaenopsis orchids.

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