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    Properties of polyglycerol fatty acid esters and its applications in cosmetics
    LIU Xiao-qing,LIU Yu-hang,CHEN Yu-yan,JIANG Li-gang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (2): 118-123.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.008
    Abstract1126)   HTML53)    PDF(pc) (780KB)(1608)       Save

    The synthesis, structure and properties of polyglycerol fatty acid esters were summarized, and the application of polyglycerol fatty acid esters in cosmetics was introduced, including makeup remover products, cleaning products, lotions, O/W creams, W/O creams and make up products. The development trend of polyglycerol fatty acid ester products and its broad application progress in the cosmetics industry were prospected.

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    Efficacy assessment for skin microecology/microbiome-modulating cosmetics
    Yumei Zheng, Rong Hu, Wenhai Wu, Liya Song, Wen Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1382-1390.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.013
    Abstract955)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1139KB)(949)       Save

    The in vitro and in vivo evaluation methods of microecological skin care products were summarized. Cosmetics can regulate skin microecological balance by directly changing the number, growth metabolism, community structure, and population effect of skin microorganisms, or by regulating skin immune response and improving skin physiological function. The number, growth and metabolism level, population effect of skin microorganisms and skin immune response status are often evaluated by in vitro method. Skin microbial diversity, community structure, and skin physiological state are often tested by human methods, combined with high-throughput sequencing technologies such as 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing, ITS amplicon sequencing, and shotgun metagenomic sequencing. Different evaluation methods have different dimensions and advantages. The in vitro method is more targeted and the test conditions are easy to control, but the model is too simple and lack of activity. In contrast, clinical trials are more holistic and in line with real use scenarios, but it is difficult to qualitative analyze the complex causal relationship among individuals, product use and microbiome changes. In the process of efficacy evaluation, the combination of in vitro and in vivo can complement the limitations of different evaluation methods to a certain extent, and can provide a more complete evidence chain for the efficacy evaluation of products.

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    Application prospect of six common Chinese herbal medicines inanti-hair loss products
    YUAN Yang-ming,ZENG Yan-sheng,MAO Shan-qiao
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (10): 674-680.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.10.008
    Abstract594)   HTML27)    PDF(pc) (1068KB)(1579)       Save

    The mechanism of hair loss was reviewed. The medicinal value of Zingiber officinale Roscoe, Anemarrhena asphodeloides, Carthamus tinctorius(L.), Panax ginseng(C. A. Mey.), Biota orientalis and Resina draconis was also analyzed. Finally, the application of these six Chinese herbal medicines in anti-hair loss products was prospected. The aim was to provide reference for the research of anti-hair loss products of Chinese herbal medicine.

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    Water-in-oil (W/O) Pickering emulsions stabilized by bio-based particles
    Weijie Jiang,Hang Jiang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (2): 142-153.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.02.002
    Abstract87)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (4494KB)(270)       Save

    Given its broad range of applications, water-in-oil (W/O) Pickering emulsions have garnered huge interest in recent years. Current research often focuses on non-bio-derived particles, which lack in biocompatibility, biodegradability, and sustainability, failing to meet the growing demand for “green” products. Consequently, using bio-derived particles as emulsifiers to prepare W/O Pickering emulsions has become a hotspot. This article aims to review and update the latest advancements in the field of bio-derived particles-based W/O Pickering emulsions. It first discusses the mechanisms of W/O Pickering emulsions and the influence of particle characteristics on emulsion, such as wettability, concentration, size, and shape. Subsequently, it highlights the progress of emulsifiers from various bio-derived sources, including cellulose, starch, lignin, Zein, polyphenolic crystals, and triterpenoids. These particles are ideal emulsifier for constructing “green” W/O Pickering emulsions. Finally, it further analyzes the applications of bio-derived particles-based W/O Pickering emulsions in the food industry, porous materials, interfacial biocatalysis, and microbial cultivation, emphasizing their importance in sustainable development and environmental protection concepts.

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    Simultaneously determination of monochloroacetic acid, dichloroacetic acid and glycollic acid in cocamidopropyl betaine by UPLC-Q-TOF-MS
    HUANG Fang,WANG Yu-qin,DENG Xin,XIE Shu-tong,HUANG Xiao-lan,WU Hui-qin
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (10): 694-698.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.10.011
    Abstract564)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (861KB)(801)       Save

    A method based on ultra-high performance liquid chromatography with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry(UPLC-Q-TOF-MS) had been developed for the simultaneous determination of monochloroacetic acid, dichloroacetic acid and glycollic acid in cocamidopropyl betaine surfactant. The samples were dissolved by water, then purified by solid phase extraction and separated by a core-shell sub-3 μm column Agilent Poroshell 120 EC-C18(3.0 mm×100 mm×2.7 μm) with a gradient elution of 0.1% formic acid and acetonitrile. Under electrospray ion source negative ion full scan mode, the extracted accurate ion was used to do qualitative and quantitative determination. The results show that the linearity of the three compounds is good in a certain concentration range, and the correlation coefficients are greater than 0.998.The average recovery of the three levels ranges from 71.1% to 92.2%, and the relative standard deviation(RSD) is less than 15%. The detection limits of the optimized method are 0.25 mg/kg for monochloroacetic acid, 0.025 mg/kg for dichloroacetic acid and10 mg/kg for glycollic acid.

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    Efficacy study of antisebum GMP in the treatment of acne vulgaris
    Yi-na LU,Guang-yin WANG,Hong XIE,Zhi-yong XIE
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (1): 29-33.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.01.007
    Abstract1148)   HTML27)    PDF(pc) (1257KB)(1052)       Save

    The solution of antisebum GMP which consists of the extracts from the peels of Garcinia Mangostana, Magnolia Officinalis, and Punica Granatum has been used to study its efficacy in anti-lipid peroxidation, oil control, anti-bacteria and anti-inflammation. The results show that GMP has significant inhibitory effect on lipid peroxidation at the mass concentration of 1%. After the treatment of sebaceous gland cells with GMP (0.1%) for 24 h, the mRNA expression levels of insulin like receptor (IGF1R) and peroxisome proliferator activated receptor (PPARγ) can be remarkably down-regulated to reduce the intracellular lipid synthesis in the cells. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of GMP on Propionibacterium acnes is 0.03%. On the model of macrophage inflammation induced by Propionibacterium acnes, GMP can also inhibit the expression of interleukin 6 (IL6), prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and nitric oxide (NO) in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore, as a natural active ingredient, GMP can play a role in anti-acne aiming at the various factors in the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris.

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    Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care (Ⅲ)Mechanical properties of human hair
    Wu Yuwen, Bian Marina, Yue Zoe, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (3): 260-270.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.03.003
    Abstract445)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (2916KB)(581)       Save

    The strength of mechanical properties is one of the most important criteria to measure the health conditioner of the hair. In healthy hair bundles, hair fiber processes excellent mechanical properties, while damaged hair bundles can break during daily combing. However, hair fiber is not a homogeneous material, so it is complicated to characterize its mechanical properties systematically and scientifically. Based on this point, this paper summarizes the testing methods of hair mechanical properties and the meaning of tensile curves, describes the influence of hair internal structure and composition on tensile properties, lists several factors affecting hair tensile properties and introduces several commercially available ingredients to enhance hair tensile properties and their mechanisms of action. This review is expected to provide a reference for the development of new hair care actives and products with hair strengthening effect.

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    Process optimization and anti-aging, moisturizing and whitening effects of traditional Chinese medicine bi-directional fermentation broth
    Guo Fangyu, Han Tingting, Wang Xiaona, Chen Yurong, Wang Xiaomei, Yang Suzhen
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (5): 523-531.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.005
    Abstract291)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (1543KB)(689)       Save

    In this study, the bi-directional fermentation process of Chinese Ganoderma lucidum, Dendrobium officinale, Polygonatum chinensis and Tuberose was optimized, and the optimal fermentation broth was prepared. Activity inhibition, Aquaporin3 (AQP3) content, 2, 2’-diazo-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) free radical scavenging rate, 1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine (DPPH) free radical scavenging rate and melanin content in mouse melanin B16-F10 cells were measured. The results of the study find that the bi-directional fermentation broth of traditional Chinese medicine can significantly inhibit protein non-enzymatic glycosylation, tyrosinase activity, and melanin content in mouse B16-F10 cells (P<0.05). It can also significantly scavenge DPPH and ABTS free radicals, and upregulate AQP3 protein expression in keratinocytes (P<0.01). Therefore, this paper concludes that the bi-directional fermentation broth of traditional Chinese medicine screened by optimizing the bi-directional fermentation process has a significant effect on inhibiting protein non-enzymatic glycosylation, tyrosinase activity and melanin content of mouse melanin B16-F10 cells, upregulating AQP3 protein expression, and scavenging ABTS free radicals and DPPH free radicals in vitro. It provides a new direction and basis for the development of cosmetic raw materials.

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    Preparation of poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid)microsphere and its behaviors of encapsulation and release of triamcinolone acetonide
    Yuan Wenbo, Zhang Huatong, Qiao Congde, Wang Ling, Luan Mingming, Yang Xiaodeng
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (11): 1266-1272.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.004
    Abstract106)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (2470KB)(230)       Save

    Triamcinolone acetonide has the advantages of strong medical efficacy and long duration, however, its oil solubility limits its application. Poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) has excellent biocompatibility and biodegradability, which can be made into microspheres loaded with triamcinolone acetonide. In this work, the PLGA was prepared using trifluoromethanesulfonic acid as catalyst and glucose as initiator. The molecular structure, molecular weight and molecular weight distribution of PLGA were characterized by NMR and gel chromatography. The results showed that the mass ratio of lactic acid to glycolic acid segments in PLGA was 50:50, and the molecules were terminated with carboxyl groups, and the molecular weight was between 36 000 and 41 000, exhibiting narrow molecular weight distribution (molecular weight distribution index was ca. 1.60). The microspheres were made by electrostatic spraying method, whose particle size was less than 20 μm (the content of microspheres of diameter being smaller than 20 μm was more than 92%). The drug loading efficiency for triamcinolone acetonide was more than 44%, and the period of release was up to 120 h. In the initial stage of drug release, the relationship between drug release rate and time was linear. This work could provide basic data for the preparation of PLGA microspheres for drug-loading and expand the application of triamcinolone acetonide in the treatment of allergic dermatitis, neurodermatitis and chronic eczema. Moreover, this work could provide reference for the development of functional skin care products.

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    Molecular simulation study on the micellization behavior of betaine-type zwitterionic surfactants
    Li Yongbin,Wang Wendong,Chen Jian,Shen Jiaxun,Liu Yi,Sun Shuangqing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (7): 583-589.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.001
    Abstract317)   HTML62)    PDF(pc) (1694KB)(447)       Save

    Betaine-type zwitterionic surfactants were used as the research objects. The technique of coarse-grained molecular dynamics was used to construct alkyl betaine models of different structures, and the effects of linking group and hydrophobic tail on the aggregation in the solution system were investigated. The bending angle distribution, relative shape anisotropy and radial distribution function of aggregates (micelles) were analyzed. The shape transformation mechanism of spherical, rod-shaped and branched micelles was explored. The research results show that, with the increase of concentration, under the action of the linking group, the zwitterionic surfactant molecules bend and the small micelles are cross-linked and fused to form a rod-branched micelle transition; the increase of the chain length of hydrophobic tail will cause the changes in micelle volume thus to reduce the intermolecular interaction, and the small micelles are easy to fuse to form a sphere-to-rod transition. This article provides an innovative thinking angle for theoretical exploration for similar systems, and it has certain guiding significance for the research and application of zwitterionic surfactants.

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    Synthesis and properties of an amide cationic Gemini surfactant with ester groups
    Lu Xiaohao,Xu Hujun,Lin Liangliang,Chang Kuan,Gao Haiyan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (7): 598-605.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.003
    Abstract274)   HTML21)    PDF(pc) (1706KB)(242)       Save

    An amide cationic Gemini surfactant with ester groups (C12- (BAE) -C12) was synthesized in three steps with bromoacetic acid, ethylene glycol, lauric acid and N, N-dimethyl-1, 3-diaminopropane as raw materials. The structure of the product was characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and mass spectrometry (MS). The critical micelle concentration (cmc) of C12- (BAE) -C12 was determined by measurement of surface tension, conductivity and fluorescence. The thermodynamic parameters of C12- (BAE) -C12 were obtained from the results of conductivity at 25, 35 and 45 ℃. The emulsification and antistatic properties of C12- (BAE) -C12 were also measured. The results show that the cmc values of C12- (BAE) -C12 at 25 ℃ are 0.331 1, 0.532 8 and 0.316 2 mmol/L, respectively, as obtained by different methods. According to the results of conductivity, the thermodynamic parameters of micellization were calculated with the thermodynamic formulas. It is determined that the micellization process of C12- (BAE) -C12 is entropy-driven, and the increase of temperature will hinder the micellization of the surfactant. Furthermore, the results of application performance show that C12- (BAE) -C12 has better emulsification and antistatic effects than traditional single-chain cationic surfactant dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide (DTAB).

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    Botanical cosmetic ingredient (IV) Research and development of skin whitening ingredients from plant extracts with melanogenesis signaling pathway inhibiting effect
    Ren Qianqian,Wu Hua,Jin Jianming
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (7): 590-597.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.002
    Abstract669)   HTML27)    PDF(pc) (1150KB)(792)       Save

    Human skin and hair color relies on the quantity, quality, and distribution of melanin. Melanin plays a monumental role in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of various environments. However, an excessive production of melanin causes serious dermatological problems. Hence, it is of great significance to study the regulation of melanogenesis signaling pathway and to explore the related plant extracts that inhibit melanin synthesis through these signaling pathways. This paper reviews the signaling pathways and regulatory factors that control melanin biosynthetic pathway, including α-MSH-induced signaling pathway, PI3K/Akt signaling pathway, SCF/c-kit-mediated MAPK signaling pathway, Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathway, NO-cGMP signaling pathway, and cytokines, transcription factor PAX3 and liver X-receptors. This paper focuses on plant extracts that inhibit melanin synthesis by regulating various signaling pathways. Although these plant extracts regulate different signaling pathways, most of them down-regulate the expression of MITF, a transcription factor that integrates upstream signaling pathways and regulates downstream genes, thereby reducing the expression of tyrosinase (TYR) and inhibiting the biosynthesis of melanin in cells. We hope this paper can provide information for better application of plant extracts in whitening cosmetics.

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    Oil-in-water high internal phase emulsions solely stabilized by modified oil ethoxylates
    Yanan Han, Xiumei Tai, Ying Liu, Tao Geng, Yanyun Bai, Lingxiao Guo
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (12): 1392-1397.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.005
    Abstract67)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (2947KB)(218)       Save

    A series of oil-in-water high internal phase emulsions with volume fraction 86% of oil phase of sweet almond oil were prepared by using 1.5 wt% modified oil ethoxylates as the single emulsifier. The effects of different EO addition numbers and carbon chain lengths on the particle size and rheological properties of emulsions were studied by optical microscope and rheometer. The results showed that, the emulsifying ability first increased and then decreased with the increase of EO number for high internal phase emulsion stabilized with modified shea butter. The high internal phase emulsions prepared with coconut oil ethoxylate and palm kernel oil ethoxylate both with carbon chain length of C12-14 showed similar viscosity and storage modulus (G'). However, the viscosity and G' of the high internal phase emulsion prepared with shea butter ethoxylate with carbon chain length of C16-18 were higher. In addition, the differences between different samples were explained from the perspective of EO number distribution and carbon chain distribution. All the high internal phase emulsions thus prepared had excellent stability and could be potentially used in cosmetics, food, drug delivery, encapsulation materials, etc.

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    Fluorinated surfactants and fluoropolymers (Ⅺ) Perfluorocarbon fluids
    DOU Zeng-pei,ZHANG Tian-tian,XING Hang,XIAO Jin-xin
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (11): 615-621.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.11.002
    Abstract343)      PDF(pc) (828KB)(805)       Save
    Performance,development course,structure features,preparation and applications of perfluorocarbon fluids were introduced.Current market situation of perfluorocarbon fluids was discussed.Outlook for development of perfluorocarbon fluids in China was prospected.
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    Study on skin care efficacy of AIMP1 derived peptide
    Yang Xiufen,Ma Wenjun,Li Lei,Wang Peipei,Zheng Chunyang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (2): 171-179.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.02.007
    Abstract195)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (2188KB)(470)       Save

    Advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) are produced during protein glycation and associated with skin ageing. The AIMP1 derived peptide (AdP) which is derived from aminoacyl tRNA synthase interacting multifunctional protein 1 may be used as an inhibitor of glycation. This study evaluated the potential anti-glycation effect of AdP and its application in cosmetic. Thirty valid subjects were selected as the research subjects, and non-invasive instruments were used to detect and record the water content, TEWL, R2, ITA°, wrinkle area/AOI area in the test group and the control group at 0, 4 and 8 weeks using corresponding products. The results show that the glycosylation reaction between BSA and glucose is inhibited by AdP, and the formation of protein carbonyl is reduced in a concentration-dependent manner. The applications of AdP in cosmetic has significant effects on improving the stratum corneum water content, the R2 value, the ITA° value, and the reducing the TEWL value and wrinkles. These findings suggest that AdP may serve as an inhibitor of glycation and provide new insights into its application.

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    Synthesis and properties of a series of Gemini surfactants with p-phenylenediamine as a spacer
    WANG Chen,XU Hu-jun
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (5): 293-297.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.05.003
    Abstract318)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (1043KB)(1030)       Save

    A series of novel Gemini surfactants C12, C16, and C18 with the hydrophobic groups of different lengths were synthesized with epichlorohydrin, N, N-dimethylalkyl amine and p-phenylenediamine as materials in two steps. The products were characterized by FT-IR and 1H NMR. The critical micelle concentration(cmc)and the corresponding surface tension(γcmc)of the phenylenediamine surfactants in aqueous solution were measured at 25 ℃ by surface tensiometer. The Krafft points and the emulsifying, foaming and antimicrobial properties of the aqueous solutions were also determined. The results show that the cmc of C12, C16 and C18 at 25 ℃ are 3.29×10 -3, 2.53×10 -4 and 3.14×10 -4 mol/L, respectively, and the γcmc are 28.24, 31.95 and 35.06 mN/m, respectively. The Krafft points of C12 and C16 are both below 0 ℃, and the Krafft point of C18 is 10 ℃. The foaming properties of C12 are better than those of C16 and C18. The emulsifying properties of C18 are better than those of C12 and C16. C12, C16 and C18 have shown excellent antimicrobial activities.

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    Study on the synthesis and performance of sodium N-lauroyl methylalaninate
    LI Ying,XU Hu-jun
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (6): 496-501.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.004
    Abstract500)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (1231KB)(567)       Save

    Using methylalanine and lauroyl chloride as the main raw materials, an anionic amino acid surfactant, N-lauroyl methylalanine sodium salt (SLMA) , was synthesized under alkaline conditions. The structure of the product was characterized through FT-IR, MS and 1H NMR. The Krafft point, critical micelle concentration (cmc) , surface tension, emulsification, wetting, foaming and detergency of SLMA were determined, as well as the conductivity, micropolarity and critical micelle aggregation number of SLMA at different temperatures. The results show that the Krafft point of SLMA is lower than 0 ℃. The cmc’s of SLMA are 8.23×10-3, 8.27×10-3, 8.29×10-3and 8.34×10-3 mol/L at 25, 35, 45 and 55 ℃, respectively, and the γcmc are 33.00, 32.90, 32.80 and 32.10 mN/m, respectively. The emulsification and wetting properties of SLMA are better than those of sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate (LS) . The foaming, foam stabilization and detergency values of SLMA are equivalent to those of LS. The critical micelle aggregation number of SLMA are 11, 35, 60 and 79 at 25, 35, 45 and 55 ℃, respectively.

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    Synthesis and characterization of citric acid anhydride
    JIN Zhu,ZHANG Jun,YANG Xiao-yi,YANG Xiu-quan,ZHOU Yuan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (4): 212-215.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.04.007
    Abstract721)      PDF(pc) (710KB)(556)       Save
    Citric acid anhydride was prepared in laboratory with anhydrous citric acid and acetic anhydride as starting materials.Effects of mole ratio of the reactants,reaction temperature and dosage of solvent on the conversion and the yield were investigated with titration method via single factor tests.Results indicated that the yield of citric acid anhydride is 88.8% at the suitable conditions as reaction temperature 52 ℃,reaction time 1.5 h,n(acetic anhydride)∶n(citric acid)=1.2 ∶1 and n(acetic acid)∶n(citric acid)=1.0∶1.Chemical structure of the product was characterized by FT-IR,1H NMR and MS,and the results of characterization showed that the product is a five member cyclo-anhydride.
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    Ferulic acid nanoethosomes: preparation, characterization, and performance of skin penetration in vitro
    Deng Mengjie, Yi Guobin, Lv Ran, Liu Yafeng, Ye Dawei, Chen Jiazhi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (11): 1285-1292.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.007
    Abstract129)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (2426KB)(191)       Save

    The transdermal delivery and antioxidant of ferulic acid nanoethosomes prepared by microfluidization were studied. Firstly, the effects of edge-activators (Tween-80, and sucrose palmitate) and lecithin on the encapsulation efficiency of ferulic acid nanoethosomes were investigated by the response surface method. When lecithin, sucrose palmitate and Tween-80 are optimized at the ratio of 0.68%:0.51%:0.25% (w/%), the ferulic acid nanoethosomes demonstrate better characteristics of small particle size of (104.5±0.7) nm, uniform particle size distribution with PDI of 0.05±0.01, high encapsulation efficiency of 88.8%±2.6%, and high storage stability for 60 days at 25 ℃. Secondly, the antioxidant ability and the skin penetration property of ferulic acid and its nanoethosomes were evaluated by DPPH free radical scavenging tests and in vitro transdermal assays using Franz diffusion cells, respectively. The IC50 values of ferulic acid and its nanoethosomes are 8.7 and 11.7 μg/mL, respectively, indicating that the ferulic acid nanoethosomes exhibite enhanced antioxidant activity. It is found that the nanoethosomes have better skin permeability and their skin adsorption amount and accumulated permeation amount of the nanoethosomes are (18.2±3.5) μg/cm2 and (25.3±3.2) μg/cm2, which are 1.2 times and 1.4 times higher than that of the ferulic acid propylene glycol solution, respectively. The prepared ferulic acid nanoethosomes have the advantages of uniform particle size, high encapsulation efficiency and storage stability, enhanced antioxidant ability and skin permeability, and can be extended to the preparation of other phenolic acid nanoethosomes and applied as transdermal carriers for antioxidant, anti-aging, and whitening cosmetics.

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    Preparation and performance evaluation of oil soluble viscosity reducer for heavy oil fields in Canada
    Xiao Sa,Sun Yubao,Wang Shaohua,Wu Chunzhou,Shu Zhan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (9): 832-838.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.004
    Abstract288)   HTML19)    PDF(pc) (1403KB)(1876)       Save

    M oilfield in Canada is characterized by low temperature, shallow buried depth, high viscosity of crude oil, less water cut and poor fluidity. Due to the high content of resin and asphaltene, it is very difficult to recover the crude oil by conventional mining method. It is necessary to reduce the viscosity of the crude oil from M oilfield in Canada. Oil soluble viscosity reduction technology has stable viscosity reduction effect on heavy oil and saves the steps of produced fluid demulsification and dehydration. In recent years, the research on oil soluble viscosity reducer at home and abroad has developed rapidly. Due to the great differences in the composition and characteristics of heavy oil in different regions, the adaptability to oil soluble viscosity reducer is different. According to the characteristics of heavy oil in M oilfield, an oil soluble viscosity reducer PH-OV was developed. The results show that the optimum composition of PH-OV is 4% esterified polyether +15% diethylene glycol dibutyl ether +81% aromatic solvent oil. When the dosage of PH-OV is 3%, the viscosity reduction rate can reach 85.2%; when the dosage of PH-OV is more than 5%, the viscosity reduction rate can reach more than 80% within 14-80 ℃. The SEM chart show that the viscosity reducer PH-OV can effectively destroy the aggregation structure of crude oil, disperse resin and asphaltene, inhibit the formation of macromolecular aggregates and reduce viscosity. With the increase of water content of crude oil, the viscosity reduction rate increases. When the water content is 60%, the viscosity reduction rate reaches 98.5%. The viscosity reducer can effectively reduce the yield value of crude oil, and the viscosity reduction performance of crude oil can be stable for more than 168 h. With the increase of viscosity reducer, the yield value of crude oil decreases significantly, which can effectively reduce the initial starting pressure of crude oil. The efficiency of PH-OV assisting cold water flooding can reach 30.03%, which is 12.86% higher than that of cold water flooding. The oil soluble viscosity reducer PH-OV is suitable for cold recovery of heavy oil in M oilfield, and has the potential to effectively enhance oil recovery.

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    Preparation and properties of the nanoemulsions and nanoemulsion gels stabilized with rhamnolipid
    Xiaoqian Jiang, Liya Zhang, Aixin Song, Xiuping Sun
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (6): 677-686.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.001
    Abstract50)   HTML6)    PDF(pc) (2262KB)(37)       Save

    Oil-in-water nanoemulsions were prepared by ultrasound-assisted method using octyl and decyl glycerate (ODO) as the oil phase and a biosurfactant, rhamnolipid (RL), as the emulsifier. The effects of emulsifier content, oil-water ratio, oil composition, temperature, pH and sodium chloride concentration on the stability of the nanoemulsions were studied. The nanoemulsions prepared could stand high temperature and are rather stable in a wide pH range. For further enhancing the stability of nanoemulsions, gelatin was introduced to produce nanoemulsion gels. The introduction of gelatin significantly increased the stability of nanoemulsions and could delay the release of active ingredients such as thymol. This study could provide useful information on the construction of biocompatible emulsion systems for encapsulation and application of active substances.

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    Study of the anti-aging efficacy of Prunus persica (peach) resin extract
    Huang Shaoyong,Zhou Lidan,Xun Wei,Shi Xuemei,Lu Yina
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (2): 159-165.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.008
    Abstract2424)   HTML59)    PDF(pc) (1551KB)(551)       Save

    Photoaging or premature aging of skin is caused by a variety of factors, including hormone imbalance and exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Both ultraviolet light and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in haze can cause skin aging and inflammation. Peach resin is a gum substance secreted from the bark of Rosaceae Prunus persica (L.) Batsch or Prunus davidiana (Carr.) Franch, which is beneficial to health. It also has the advantages of being natural and non-toxic, large in yield, and low in price. Peach gum is a kind of polysaccharide, which has the characteristics of swelling in water and slow release. At present, peach gum has been widely used in food and health care, but the basic research is still relatively weak. Peach gum is a natural cosmetic raw material with great potential for development and application. In this study, a Prunus persica (Peach) resin extract (PG) was prepared and its anti-aging effect was detected by several methods. The results suggested that, based on the model of fibroblast cell aging, PG could promote cell proliferation, Collagen Ⅰ expression and inhibit the activity of beta-GAL in a dosage-dependent manner in the mass fraction range of 0.3% to 10%. In the cell damage model induced by UVA and BaP, PG at the mass fraction between 0.1% to 10% could inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors Prostaglandin E2 and Matrix metallopeptidase 1. The results of clinical study showed that 5% and 10% PG had significantly increased skin tightening effect. In human clinical evaluation, PG at the mass fraction range of 2% to 10% could significantly increase skin moisture content, reduce transepidermal water loss, improve skin firmness, and reduce wrinkles. As a natural material with anti-aging effect, PG can be used in skin anti-wrinkle products.

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    Common cosmetic preparation technologies(Ⅵ) Preparation sharing properties of both solids and liquids: Semisolid
    Tang Wenjun,Wang Changyun,Xu Guiyun,Niu Qianxue,Fan Jinshi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1278-1285.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.003
    Abstract1514)   HTML11)    PDF(pc) (1190KB)(406)       Save

    Semisolid is one kind of natural existing material state in nature, and is also a very important product preparation among many different industry fields. Possessing dual properties of both solid and liquid, semisolid is a kind of concentrated dispersion system with non-Newtonian rheological behavior. Semisolid usually appears as paste with right consistency, which is made up of uniformly mixed particular active ingredients and suitable base materials. Semisolid preparations have been widely used in medicine, cosmetics, daily-use chemicals, food, agriculture, papermaking, textile, printing, dyeing and the other fields. Being a quite important cosmetic preparation, semisolid has many fascinating advantages, such as abundant types, easy manufacture, convenient use, stable quality, high efficiency and versatile functions. Herein, the composition and rheological property, the base substances and active components, the essential requirements and production methods of semisolid are totally introduced. The characteristics, composition and applications of some typical semisolid cosmetics are also presented in detail. Meanwhile, the main research content and key development directions of semisolid on which continuous attention should be paid are also briefly pointed out.

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    Skin microecology and microecological skincare products
    Huabing Zhao, Yingtian Li, Xihan Wang, Zhengmei Huang, Fuping Lu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (3): 390-398.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.03.015
    Abstract90)   HTML15)    PDF(pc) (1358KB)(80)       Save

    The skin microecosystem is comprised of the components including: the microbiome, encompassing bacteria, fungi, archaea, viruses, protozoa, and other microorganisms; host cells, including epithelial cells, immune cells, and various glands; chemical constituents, such as sebum, sweat, skin care products, environmental molecules, and their metabolic products; and the physical microenvironment, which includes factors such as oxygen, ultraviolet light, and temperature. The microbiome serves as the central component of the skin microecosystem, playing a crucial role in the maintenance of skin homeostasis through its mediation of the interactions among the physical barrier, chemical barrier, and immune barrier. Understanding the skin microecosystem, and how to maintain its delicate balance is an essential way to gain insight into the mechanisms responsible for healthy skin. The daily use of skin care products has become a modern living habit, and its impacts on skin microecosystem cannot be ignored. Therefore, this article aims to summarize the various factors that may affect the skin microecosystem in skin care products, and systematically analyze the common effects, harmful effects, beneficial effects and uncertainty effects. Based on this premise, the following development directions are proposed: further elucidation of the skin microecology mechanism with multi-omics technology, the creation of in vitro skin microecology models, the establishment of evaluation systems and regulations for assessing the effects of skincare products on skin microecology, and the exploration of beneficial skin bacteria and substitutes for potentially harmful ingredients.

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    Progress of cosmetic active ingredients exerting skincare efficacy through cellular autophagy
    Fan Wu, Jiaqi Zhang, Yi Qin, Jun Wang, Zonghan Wu, Yao Pan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (6): 803-810.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.015
    Abstract43)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1427KB)(33)       Save

    Autophagy, as a cellular homeostasis maintenance mechanism, removes damaged or excess proteins and organelles within the cell. Some cosmetic active ingredients can remove cellular wastes, and regulate the related pathways and cellular functions through autophagy, which play an important role on repairing cellular damage, slowing down the process of non-enzymatic glycosylation, strengthening skin barrier, and inhibiting the melanogenesis and sebum secretion. It has a great prospect in the development and application of cosmetic products. Therefore, this paper reviews the role of autophagy and its molecular mechanism in anti-aging, skin barrier repair, skin whitening and oil control efficacies, summarizes the cosmetic active ingredients that regulate autophagy to improve the skin condition, and finally looks forward to the prospects and development direction of autophagy related research in the cosmetic industry.

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    A new option for extracting functional components from medicine and food homologous plants: Ionic liquids
    Xingyu Zhao, Liqin Zhou, Zhenxia Zhao, Yan Huang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (6): 795-802.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.014
    Abstract72)   HTML11)    PDF(pc) (1392KB)(31)       Save

    Medicine and food homologous plants play important roles in the fields of food nutrition and traditional Chinese medicines. Traditional extraction techniques, despite their practical value, pose problems such as environmental pollution and resource wastage. With the advancement in research of medicine and food homologous plants and natural products, seeking for efficient and environmentally friendly extraction methods has become a hot topic. Ionic liquids (ILs), as a type of novel green solvents, have shown great potential in the field of natural product extraction due to their unique physicochemical properties. Herein, the research progress of ionic liquids for extraction of functional components from medicine and food homologous plants has been reviewed, including the basic characteristics of ionic liquids, their development history, and the mechanisms in extracting functional components from natural products. The definition, types, and functional components of medicine and food homologous plants were introduced in detail, and the application examples of ionic liquids in extraction of these plant components were analyzed. Additionally, the advantages of using ionic liquids for extraction were discussed, such as high selectivity, tunability, and environmental friendliness. The current challenges were also pointed out, including cost issues and safety. Finally, the future development trend of ionic liquids in extraction of functional components from medicine and food homologous plants was prospected.

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    Progress in field of Gemini organosilicon surfactant
    BAO Yan,GUO Jia-jia,LI Xiao-lu,SHI Chun-hua,ZHANG Xiao-yan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (5): 296-301.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.05.012
    Abstract301)      PDF(pc) (773KB)(470)       Save
    Synthesis and performance of Gemini organosilicon surfactants were reviewed.Interfacial properties,aggregation behavior and hydrolysis resistance of Gemini organosilicon surfactants were emphatically introduced.Meanwhile,outlooks about application of Gemini organosilicon surfactants in the field of leather processing,textile and pesticide manufacturing were prospected.
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    Current status of sea cucumber aquaculture and the research progress on skincare benefits in China
    Chujie Zhao,Liqing Wu,Qiuxing He,Zheng Yang,Lvyangguang Ye,Lihong Yuan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (2): 225-234.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.02.012
    Abstract58)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1228KB)(130)       Save

    The sea cucumber is a highly esteemed source of nourishment, recognized as one of the “Eight Treasures of the Sea.” The bioactive compounds derived from sea cucumbers exhibit diverse physiological activities, including anti-tumor, antioxidant, anti-coagulation, anti-viral, anti-fatigue, immune enhancement, cognitive improvement, and metabolic regulation. Notably, within the skincare sector, these compounds demonstrate significant anti-aging, moisturizing, whitening, wrinkle reduction, repair and inhibition of melanin production properties. This article assesses the current state of sea cucumber aquaculture in China and the utilization of its bioactive ingredients in skincare formulations. The objective is to furnish additional raw materials and semi-finished products for China’s skincare and pharmaceutical industries, to advance the integration of sea cucumber bioactive components within these sectors, and to invigorate the rapid development of the tropical sea cucumber breeding industry.

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    Determination of ectoine and hydroxyectoine in fermentation broth by high performance liquid chromatography
    Liu Zihan,Guo Qiushuang,Zhou Chao,Sun Yang,Li Hua,Liu Yupeng
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (11): 1236-1240.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.11.013
    Abstract459)   HTML18)    PDF(pc) (1161KB)(387)       Save

    A method was developed for the determination of ectoine and hydroxyectoine in fermentation broth samples of moderately saline bacteria using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Samples were extracted using ethanol extraction, and ectoine and hydroxyectoine standards were dissolved and diluted in ultrapure water. VertexTM NH2 (4.6×250 mm, 5 μm) liquid chromatographic column was used to analyse ectoine and hydroxyectoine in the fermentation broth of moderately halophilic bacteria. Waters 1515 high performance liquid chromatograph with ultraviolet (UV) detector was selected to compare the different detection conditions. The chromatographic conditions were optimized by using acetonitrile (70%) as the mobile phase with a column temperature of 30 ℃, a detection wavelength of 210 nm and a flow rate of 0.8 mL/min. The linearity of ectoine and hydroxyectoine in the fermentation broth samples is good in their respective ranges. The average recoveries of the two samples are in the range of 99.2% to 102%, the precision deviations are in the range of 1% to 2%, the limit of detection is 1.5 μg/mL, the limit of quantification is 5 μg/mL and the separation degree is 1.70. The method is suitable for the separation and determination of ectoine and hydroxyectoine in fermentation broth and for the quantitative analysis of ectoine and hydroxyectoine under laboratory conditions.

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    Analysis of flavonoid metabolic pathways of different varieties of Phalaenopsis and their molecular mechanism
    Cheng Ling,Wang Jianping
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1293-1299.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.005
    Abstract1570)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1397KB)(361)       Save

    High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to study the flavonoid metabolism pathways of 18 Phalaenopsis. A HPLC technology was established to analyze the pathway of flavonoid metabolism (regulate color). Fluorescence quantitative PCR (Real-Time PCR) was used to further analyze the expression level of key genes in Phalaenopsis flavonoid synthesis pathway, and an Agrobacterium-mediated transient transformation of Phalaenopsis was used to obtain transgenic strains. Phalaenopsis HPLC separation technology can successfully separate 29 components, which is quite different from other species of grape and hyacinth. Real-Time PCR analysis of the key genes in the flavonoid synthesis pathway of different species of Phalaenopsis finds that the temporal and spatial expression patterns of Chalcone synthase (CHS), Flavonol-3-hydroxylase (F3H) and Chalcone isomerase (CHI) of different species are basically the same. The key enzyme gene RNAi interference vector is constructed by Agrobacterium-mediated method to transform Phalaenopsis transiently. The interference expression of key enzyme genes in the flavonoid synthesis pathway will reduce the color of Phalaenopsis. In conclusion, the HPLC research method of Phalaenopsis flavonoid metabolism pathway is established, and its molecular mechanism is preliminary studied, which provids a theoretical and practical basis for revealing the color regulation mechanism of Phalaenopsis orchids.

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    Study on performance of modified oil ethoxylates and peregal blend system
    Yong ZHANG,Jing-jie ZHOU,Yong-qiang SUN,jin-yuan SUN,Hui-bin LIANG,Hua-ping WU
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (3): 162-166.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.005
    Abstract467)   HTML6)    PDF(pc) (1041KB)(746)       Save

    Through the tests of water solubility, freezing point, wetting, emulsification, decontamination and foam properties, the performance of the binary blend system of non-ionic surfactant modified SOE-N-60 with peregal O-25 and peregal O-20 respectively were estimated. The results show that the binary compound system of SOE-N-60 with a total mass fraction of 70% and peregal at 25 ℃ is uniform and transparent and the freezing points of the products are all below 10 ℃, when the mass ratio of SOE-N-60 to peregal O-25 is greater than 5:5 and the mass ratio of SOE-N-60 to peregal O-20 is greater than 4:6. The decontamination performance and liquid paraffin emulsifying performance of the compound products exhibit a certain synergistic effect. The foaming properties of the compound products are slightly higher than the single SOE-N-60. Therefore, the compound products are suitable for the development of low temperature and low foam concentrated liquid detergent.

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    Advances in desorption-enhancing mechanisms for coalbed methane desorption agents
    Hongsheng Lu, Yang Yang, Yang Wu, Xiangyang Yan, Bo Lin
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (6): 687-699.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.002
    Abstract39)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (2192KB)(26)       Save

    Coalbed methane (CBM), as an important unconventional natural gas resource, plays a significant role in optimizing energy structures and reducing greenhouse gas emissions. In this review, the research progress and challenges for technologies of desorption agents in CBM development are systematically reviewed, focusing on various mechanisms including physical displacement, chemical competitive adsorption, wettability modification, and thermodynamic synergy. The literature survey has shown that physical displacement agents can enhance the desorption efficiency of methane by occupying the adsorption sites on coal matrices through competitive adsorption. Chemical agents such as surfactants can optimize pore fluid distribution and reduce capillary resistance by regulating gas-liquid-solid interfacial interactions. Wettability modification techniques can weaken methane-coal bonding strength by altering the hydrophilicity or hydrophobicity of coal. Additionally, thermodynamic synergy can systematically improve desorption kinetics through dynamic evolution among temperature field, pressure field, and pore structure evolution. However, challenges such as the heterogeneity of coalbed, the long-term retention risk of chemical agents, and the lack of clarity of the action mechanism of working fluid on coal under reservoir conditions still restrict technological development. To promote green and precision CBM development, future studies should prioritize constructing multiphysics coupling models, developing intelligent responsive materials, and integrating CO2 sequestration with methane recovery technologies.

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    Synthesis and properties of 2-undecyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethyl imidazolium chloride
    Gao-fei ZHANG,Wei ZHANG,Feng-shou WANG
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (3): 155-158.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.03.003
    Abstract620)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (1046KB)(994)       Save

    Undecyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline with less salt was synthesized from lauric acid and hydroxyethyl ethylenediamine. Then, 2-undecyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethyl imidazolium chloride (LSUHCI) was synthesized with ethyl chloroacetate as quaternization reagent. The structure of the intermediate, i.e. undecyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, was characterized by FT-IR and mass spectrometry. The composition of the intermediate was also quantitatively analyzed. The structure of LSUHCI was characterized by FT-IR and 1H NMR. The physicochemical properties were studied and compared with ordinary industrial product (salt content=8.1%) of 2-undecyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethyl imidazolium chloride (UHCI). The results showed that the NaCl content in LSUHCI was 1.3%, which was a low-salt surfactant product. The balanced surface tension of LSUHCI was 27.52 mN/m. Its critical micelle concentration (cmc), wettability and emulsifying property were better than UHCI, while foaming ability and foam stability were worse than UHCI.

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    Synthesis and emulsification properties of hydrophobically modified chitosan
    Meng Xinyu,Liu Huan,Hu Xueyi,Xia Yongmei
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (8): 705-710.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.002
    Abstract689)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (2397KB)(601)       Save

    As a natural polysaccharide, chitosan (CS) has excellent biocompatibility, biodegradability and renewability. Chitosan has different molecular weight and deacetylation degree. However, its strong hydrophilicity limits its application in food, cosmetics and other fields. Therefore, hydrophobic modification of chitosan can decrease the strong hydrophilicity and expand its application as emulsifier. That is, hydrophobic groups are introduced into its hydrophilic skeleton. However, the safety of chemical modifications needs to be considered. Maillard reaction does not use any chemical cross-linking agent, and the reaction process is simple and the products are biocompatible. As one of the main hydrophobic proteins, casein can be used to improve the amphiphilicity of polysaccharides. After enzymatic hydrolysis, casein hydrophobic peptides (CHP) can provide peptides with more hydrophobic groups. In this study, Maillard reaction was used to modify chitosan with CHP. The optimized conditions of Maillard reaction were temperature of 60 ℃, relative humidity of 75%, reaction time of three days, and the mass ratio of CHP to CS of 1∶3. The grafting degree was calculated through the content of free amino groups. The grafting degree for this series obtained was from 3.10% to 15.08%. In addition, the browning index increased as Maillard reaction was going on. Infrared spectroscopy and fluorescence spectroscopy were used for structural analysis. The vibration absorption peak of protein side chain changed after the reaction. The typical Schiff base was synthesized after Maillard reaction. Amadori product was formed after cyclization and rearrangement. The CHP-modified chitosan can stabilize emulsion. An O/W emulsion (50% olive oil in water) stabilized with 1% CHP-modified chitosan was prepared. The emulsion stabilized with CS breaks at the 7th day. In contrast, the emulsion stabilized with CHP-modified chitosan has large Zeta potential which provides large electrostatic repulsion between droplets, inhibiting demulsification, flocculation or coalescence of the emulsion. The particle size and particle size distribution of the emulsion have little change during the storage period. The emulsion has excellent long-term storage stability in 28 days.

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    Effect of sandalwood extract on olfactory receptor and its clinical efficacy
    Yueming Jiang, Wenjia Lu, Xin Qu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 828-835.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.010
    Abstract92)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (3769KB)(252)       Save

    Olfactory receptors (OR) are a class of membrane proteins that can specifically bind to external chemicals (ligands), thereby inducing intracellular signal transmission. In this work, the impact of aging on OR, the mechanism of sandalwood extract and its clinical efficacies were studied. The relationship between age and OR was studied using reconstructed human epidermis (RHEs) at different ages. The models of senescent RHE and hair follicle dermal papilla cells were established to study the activation of OR2AT4 by sandalwood extract. The role of sandalwood extract in promoting the production of anagen-prolonging factor IGF-1 was studied using hair follicle dermal papilla cell model. The results of in vitro test showed that, the expression of OR2AT4 decreased with age. The level of OR2AT4 in senescent RHE was significantly increased by 46% after treated with 1% sandalwood extract. In addition, 0.002% sandalwood extract could promote the production of IGF-1 in hair follicle dermal papilla cell model, which was significantly increased by 27%. The clinical results demonstrated that, the skin water content, skin tone, skin firmness and wrinkles were all improved after using a cream containing 2% sandalwood extract for 28 days. Hair density was significantly improved after using a scalp serum containing 2% sandalwood for 86 days. In conclusion, sandalwood extract could activate the expression of OR2AT4 and IGF-1 to improve skin aging signs and treat hair loss issue induced by hair follicle aging.

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    Preparation of hesperetin micelle pseudo solution and influence of hyaluronic acid on its stability and percutaneous osmosis action
    ZHANG Xiao-yu, HOU Cai-ping, ZHAO Li-ping, XIE Yin, LIU Li-qing, HE Ya-li, TIAN Qing-ping
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (2): 92-96.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.02.007
    Abstract295)      PDF(pc) (793KB)(359)       Save
    Pseudo solution of hesperetin micelle was prepared,and influence of hyaluronic acid on its stability and percutaneous osmosis activity was investigated using Zeta potential and percutaneous osmosis rate as the respective indices.Experimental results showed that hyaluronic acid can significantly enhance the stability and percutaneous osmosis activity of hesperetin micelle pseudo solution.When the mass fraction of hyaluronic acid achieves 0.5%,the micelle pseudo solution becomes transparent,stable and without unpleasant odor.Under room temperature condition,its average pH value is 5.4±0.1 and average Zeta potential is -32.62 mV.The steady osmosis rate constant Js of hesperetin through cavy skin achieves 7.475 8 μg/(cm2·h),which is 1.5 multiples as compared with that of the control group.The micelle pseudo solution shows good stability in cold resistance test and heat resistance test.
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    Analysis of the influencing factors and study on the standardized operation of transepidermal water loss measurement
    Fengling Chen, Yaru Wang, Rongzi Ye, Jiaen Liang, Jiaying Xie, Jianhua Tan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (6): 715-722.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.005
    Abstract37)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (1332KB)(22)       Save

    The transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of human skin is affected by many factors. Different test schemes were designed to systematically compare the test results of the cheek and inner forearm and other areas of healthy subjects, and explore the influence of measurement methods, environmental conditions, test site, instruments and equipment on TEWL test results. The results show that different test methods (including different measurement modes, interval time between two measurement, subject waiting time and accumulated multiple measurements) affect the reproducibility of the test results, and TEWL test results are significantly different under different conditions of environment temperature and humidity that skin surface contact, facial test site and day and night time. There is a strong correlation between the test results of different types of TEWL instruments, but the test stability is significantly different. In this study, various factors affecting the measurement of transepidermal water loss are systematically analyzed, and a standardized operation method is established to provide reliable and scientific technical support for accurate evaluation of the efficacy of cosmetics.

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    Establishment of duplex-PCR method for rapid detection of Pluralibacter gergoviae
    Feng Liu, Yuanchang Deng, Guohong Ying, Xiaowei Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (1): 45-50.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.006
    Abstract66)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1468KB)(66)       Save

    A rapid detection method for Pluralibacter gergoviae was established, and this method was used to quickly and effectively detect Pluralibacter gergoviae in samples. Four house-keeping genes (gyrB, infB, atpD and ropB) were selected as target genes, and 4 pairs of primers were designed. The bacterial suspension was used as amplification, and the 4 pairs of primers could specifically bind with the Pluralibacter gergoviae to produce bright DNA bands. Among the four pairs of primers, only gyrB-F/gyrB-R and ropB-F/ropB-R obtained a small amount of non-specific DNA bands when Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterobacter cloacae and Burkholderia cepacia were used as DNA templates. Two pairs of specific primers gyrB-F/gyrB-R and ropB-F/ropB-R(insert) were used to establish the rapid detection method of duplex-PCR for Pluralibacter gergoviae in rinsing cosmetics. The specificity of duplex-PCR was improved by optimizing the annealing temperature of amplification. When the annealing temperature was 60 ℃, using the primer pairs gyrB-F/gyrB-R and ropB-F/ropB-R (insert) to amplify 4 strains of Pluralibacter gergoviae, two specific target DNA bands were obtained, but Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterobacter cloacae and Burkholderia cepacia would obtain non-specific DNA bands. When the annealing temperature was optimized and set at 65 ℃, the specific target DNA bands could be amplified when 4 strains of Pluralibacter gergoviae were used as DNA templates. When Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterobacter cloacae and Burkholderia cepacia were used as DNA templates, no DNA bands were detected. When the concentration of Pluralibacter gergoviae in the sample reached 4.4 CFU/mL, duplex-PCR was able to detect Pluralibacter gergoviae in the sample with high sensitivity. Duplex-PCR method could be used to quickly detect the Pluralibacter gergoviae in the rinsing cosmetics such as shower gel and shampoo.

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    Improvement of proteases stability in liquid laundry detergent
    Mei-na WU,Lei LI,Yong-mei XIA,Xiang LIU,Hai-jun WANG
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (2): 103-107.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.02.008
    Abstract661)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (1027KB)(598)       Save

    With borax as control, the effects of 16 stabilizers of citrate, polyols and esters, temperature, pH and amount of stabilizer on the stability of three proteases in liquid laundry detergent were investigated, and the effects of surfactants AES, AEO and APG on the activity of protease were also investigated based on the main components of liquid laundry detergent. Results show that the stability of citrate, especially calcium ammonium citrate, is the best, and the stability of APG0810 and APG1214 is close to that of borax. When the amount of protease was 0.5%, the three-week activity retention rates of protease stabilized by calcium ammonium citrate-APG0810-APG1214 ternary complex stabilizer system, Purafect 4000L and Purafect Prime 4000L complex stabilizer at pH=7 and 25 ℃ were 84.3% and 71.5%, respectively; the three-week activity retention rates at pH=8 and 37 ℃ were 47.2% and 30.4%, respectively; and the three-week activity retention rates of protease stabilized by borax at pH=7 and 37 ℃ were 2.87% and 13.5%, respectively. In addition, AES can significantly reduce the enzyme activity, while non-ionic surfactants AEO7 and AEO9 did not. However, the mixing of AEO and AES cannot reduce the damage of AES to the enzyme activity. It can be considered to increase the use of APG and AEO in liquid enzyme-enhanced detergents.

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    Progress in research work field with respect to theory and application of microemulsion
    MAO Xue-bin,DU Zhi-ping,TAI Xiu-mei,LIU Xiao-ying
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (11): 648-653.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.11.008
    Abstract590)      PDF(pc) (851KB)(1209)       Save
    Similarities and differences between microemulsion and ordinary emulsion were summarized.Mechanism for formation of microemulsion as well as the research methods for structure and properties of microemulsions were introduced.The applications of microemulsion in different areas were summarized,and its application foreground was prospected.
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