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Botanical cosmetic ingredients （VII）Research and development of plant antifungal Jingxuan Liu, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (3): 259-266.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.03.003 Abstract （141）   HTML （15）    PDF（pc） （1458KB）（1223）       Knowledge map    Save This paper describes skin fungi and fungal skin infections, and summarizes the antifungal mechanism and the corresponding drug targets of the bioactive compounds from plants. The active antifungal compounds from plants include polyphenols, alkaloids, flavonoids, terpenoids, steroids and essential oils, etc. The main antifungal mechanism is inhibition of fungal cell wall and cell membrane biosynthesis. The target of cell wall biosynthesis inhibition is via inhibiting the activities of β-glucan synthetase, chitin synthase and mannan synthase. And the target of cell membrane biosynthesis inhibition is via inhibiting the synthesis of the structural components, ergosterol and sphingolipids. By inhibiting ergosterol synthetase, serine palmitoyltransferase, ceramide synthase and myo-inositol phosphatidyl ceramide synthase, the active components from plants can also directly bind to ergosterol and sphingolipids and destruct the cell membrane. In addition, phenols, alkaloids, flavonoids, terpenoids and essential oils also target mitochondrion to display antifungal activity, by inducing reactive oxygen species （ROS） accumulation, inhibiting ATP biosynthesis and proton pumps, and disrupt the mitochondrial respiration and metabolic system. This paper has reviewed the antifungal mechanisms of bioactive compounds from plants, hoping to provide a reference for the applications of plant materials in cosmetics, for a better maintaining of skin health. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Efficacy assessment for skin microecology/microbiome-modulating cosmetics Yumei Zheng, Rong Hu, Wenhai Wu, Liya Song, Wen Wang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1382-1390.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.013 Abstract （955）   HTML （5）    PDF（pc） （1139KB）（949）       Knowledge map    Save The in vitro and in vivo evaluation methods of microecological skin care products were summarized. Cosmetics can regulate skin microecological balance by directly changing the number, growth metabolism, community structure, and population effect of skin microorganisms, or by regulating skin immune response and improving skin physiological function. The number, growth and metabolism level, population effect of skin microorganisms and skin immune response status are often evaluated by in vitro method. Skin microbial diversity, community structure, and skin physiological state are often tested by human methods, combined with high-throughput sequencing technologies such as 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing, ITS amplicon sequencing, and shotgun metagenomic sequencing. Different evaluation methods have different dimensions and advantages. The in vitro method is more targeted and the test conditions are easy to control, but the model is too simple and lack of activity. In contrast, clinical trials are more holistic and in line with real use scenarios, but it is difficult to qualitative analyze the complex causal relationship among individuals, product use and microbiome changes. In the process of efficacy evaluation, the combination of in vitro and in vivo can complement the limitations of different evaluation methods to a certain extent, and can provide a more complete evidence chain for the efficacy evaluation of products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of Mg2+, Al3+ and Fe3+ on the surface properties of fluorapatite Jiang Chunyan, Ao Xianquan, Cao Yang, Chen Hong, Li Songhong China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (3): 253-259.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.03.002 Abstract （147）   HTML （16）    PDF（pc） （1351KB）（720）       Knowledge map    Save Phosphate rock flotation is a widely used method in phosphate rock processing in which aimed minerals are selectively separated from gangue minerals based on the difference in surface wettability. Due to its associated minerals in phosphate rock, there is always a lot of Mg2+, Al3+ and Fe3+ in phosphate rock slurry. The existence of metal ions, whose forms are changed with slurry pH, can affect the flotation operation by adsorption on the mineral surface. The surface properties of minerals are the main factors affecting their dispersion, aggregation, and flotation behavior. Herein, the influences of unavoidable metal ions, including Mg2+, Al3+ and Fe3+, on the surface properties of fluorapatite （FAP） in pulp were studied by solution chemical calculation, turbidity, contact angle and Zeta-potential test. The results showed that the forms of metal ions in solution vary with pH. FAP is a hydrophilic mineral, and the influence of adding Fe3+ ions on the wettability of FAP was greatly affected by pH. In acidic environment, Fe3+ ions could promote the hydrophilicity of FAP, while in neutral and alkaline environment, Fe3+ ions could inhibit the hydrophilicity of FAP. The effects of Mg2+ and Al3+ ions were less affected by pH, and both Mg2+ and Al3+ ions inhibited the wettability of FAP in neutral environment. In the range of pH 3-11, Mg2+ mainly existed as divalent ions, which compressed the double layer on the FAP surface. Al3+ and Fe3+ mainly generated hydroxide precipitation through hydrolysis to cover the surface of FAP. Mg2+, Al3+ and Fe3+ ions would destroy the dispersity of FAP and promote the coagulation of FAP. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the effect of bovine milk exosomes on skin barrier Bai Wei,Han Chunle,Wang Miao,Du Huanqing,Dong Fengwei,Ge Xiaohu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (9): 981-989.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.010 Abstract （593）   HTML （26）    PDF（pc） （1280KB）（715）       Knowledge map    Save Bovine milk exosomes were purified by density centrifugation, and their effect on skin barrier was studied. TEM, nanoFCM, Western-blot, LC-MS and BCA test showed that, the obtained bovine milk exosomes were highly pure exosome product whose appearance, particle size and markers were consistent with the typical characteristics of exosomes. Proteomics was then employed. The results showed that, the bovine milk exosomes contributed to cell-cell adhesion, indicative of an effect of skin barrier repair. HaCat cells were then incubated with bovine milk exosomes, and the cell proteomics analysis proved that tight junction proteins such as Claudin-1 and Claudin-6 were upregulated by bovine milk exosomes at all dosages, while some negative regulatory factors like PPP2R1A and PPP2R2A were downregulated. Molecular analysis identified with the proteomics results showed that Claudin-1 was upregulated at both transcription and translation levels. The bovine milk exosomes were then labeled with fluorescent dye and topically applied on mouse skin. Trans-epidermal trace of labeled bovine milk exosomes was demonstrated by fluorescence confocal microscopy. Immunohistochemical detection further verified that Claudin-1 was enhanced after 48 hours’ topical application on mouse skin. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅶ） The causes of hair graying and the methods to make white hair turn black Fang Chengge, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (7): 748-756.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.003 Abstract （234）   HTML （25）    PDF（pc） （1824KB）（706）       Knowledge map    Save With the trend of hair graying becoming younger, hair color has increasingly become a focus of public attention. However, currently, the exact cause of hair graying is still unclear. Herein, starting from the synthetic pathway of melanin, previous research on the mechanism of hair graying was reviewed and two recognized pathways were introduced. The application potential of natural products to delay hair graying was also introduced, and several natural black substances such as graphene oxide and polydopamine in the research of hair dying were listed. This review might provide a reference for the development and application of non-toxic and harmless black dyes and hair-graying-prevention products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Corrosion inhibition effect of a quaternary ammonium surfactant containing thiadiazole on Q235 steel Wang Junxia,Liu Jianhua,Lu Xiaomeng,Sun Yongqiang,Hu Zhiyong,Zhu Hailin China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (8): 797-804.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.001 Abstract （272）   HTML （23）    PDF（pc） （1632KB）（698）       Knowledge map    Save The surface activity of a quaternary ammonium surfactant （MTOTB） in 1 mol/L HCl solution was investigated by surface tension method. The corrosion inhibition performance of MTOTB and 2-mercapto-5-methyl-1, 3, 4-thiadiazole （MMTD） for Q235 carbon steel in 1 mol/L HCl solution was analyzed by electrochemical test, weight loss and surface morphology analysis. The results show that, the critical micelle concentration is 0.36 mmol/L for MTOTB in 1 mol/L HCl solution. The corrosion inhibition rate can reach 95.34% for the carbon steel soaked in 1 mol/L HCl solution for 48 h when adding 0.5 mmol/L MTOTB, while for MMTD it is 78.34% under the same condition, suggesting that MTOTB owns better corrosion inhibition performance than MMTD. The results of SEM-EDS show that MTOTB can adsorb on the surface of carbon steel and effectively inhibit the corrosion of carbon steel sheet. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Process optimization and anti-aging, moisturizing and whitening effects of traditional Chinese medicine bi-directional fermentation broth Guo Fangyu, Han Tingting, Wang Xiaona, Chen Yurong, Wang Xiaomei, Yang Suzhen China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (5): 523-531.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.005 Abstract （291）   HTML （25）    PDF（pc） （1543KB）（689）       Knowledge map    Save In this study, the bi-directional fermentation process of Chinese Ganoderma lucidum, Dendrobium officinale, Polygonatum chinensis and Tuberose was optimized, and the optimal fermentation broth was prepared. Activity inhibition, Aquaporin3 （AQP3） content, 2, 2’-diazo-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid （ABTS） free radical scavenging rate, 1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine （DPPH） free radical scavenging rate and melanin content in mouse melanin B16-F10 cells were measured. The results of the study find that the bi-directional fermentation broth of traditional Chinese medicine can significantly inhibit protein non-enzymatic glycosylation, tyrosinase activity, and melanin content in mouse B16-F10 cells （P<0.05）. It can also significantly scavenge DPPH and ABTS free radicals, and upregulate AQP3 protein expression in keratinocytes （P<0.01）. Therefore, this paper concludes that the bi-directional fermentation broth of traditional Chinese medicine screened by optimizing the bi-directional fermentation process has a significant effect on inhibiting protein non-enzymatic glycosylation, tyrosinase activity and melanin content of mouse melanin B16-F10 cells, upregulating AQP3 protein expression, and scavenging ABTS free radicals and DPPH free radicals in vitro. It provides a new direction and basis for the development of cosmetic raw materials. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Common cosmetic preparation technologies （Ⅲ）Liquid, solid floating: Aerosol and spray Yu Xinqi,Sui Zhenquan,Xu Guiyun,Fan Jinshi China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (9): 930-936.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.003 Abstract （1424）   HTML （28）    PDF（pc） （1047KB）（635）       Knowledge map    Save Aerosols and sprays are widely used in industry, agriculture, scientific research and people’s daily life in virtue of their advantages such as small volume, light weight, easy to carry and use, excellent function, and suitable for application for open, close and semi-close applicable spaces. Aerosols and sprays atomize functional active components into very fine droplets/particles via pressure device, which can easily spread throughout the whole application space, or evenly distribute on the object surfaces, to make full use of the valuable active components. Herein, the development history, product characteristics, working principle, device structure, key components, production process and application notices of aerosols and sprays were introduced. Furthermore, the typical applications of aerosols and sprays in hair and body care, household cleaning, medical products with natural active components, and biological pharmaceutical preparations in recent years were mentioned. Finally, the possible priorities and directions for research and development of aerosols and sprays in the future were also briefly pointed out. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of 15 kinds of dyestuffs in hair dyes by high performance liquid chromatography Liu Yun,Liu Jie,Huang Wei,Ding Xiaoping,Li Lixia,Li Hongying China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1333-1341.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.011 Abstract （166）   HTML （5）    PDF（pc） （1183KB）（608）       Knowledge map    Save The aim of the study was to establish a detection method for determination of 15 kinds of dyestuffs in hair dyes by high performance liquid chromatography（HPLC）. The 15 kinds of dyestuffs were extracted with the mix of ethanol and water（Vethanol ∶Vwater=6∶4） by the ultrasonic extraction method. The separation was performed on a Welch Xtimate-C18 column（4.6 mm×250 mm，5 μm） by gradient elution with the solution of 0.02 mol/L ammonium acetate and acetonitrile and determined by photo-diode array detector. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min and the detection wavelength was 230 nm. The results indicate that each compound shows good linearity in its own concentration range with the correlation coefficient of R2>0.995.The limits of detection（LOD） are in the range of 0.86-7.63 μg/g. The average recoveries are ranged from 85.42% to 114.61%, and the relative standard deviation（RSD） is in the range of 0.72% to 8.65%. The method is simple, rapid, reliable and accurate, which is suitable for determination of 15 kinds of restricted dyestuffs in hair dyes. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on evaluation methods of oil control efficacy of cosmetics Li Siyue, Han Rui, Liu Qi, Li Yueqin, Zhao Hua China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (5): 560-566.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.010 Abstract （465）   HTML （45）    PDF（pc） （1049KB）（599）       Knowledge map    Save Oily skin can cause a variety of skin problems, and in severe cases can even lead to acne, seborrheic dermatitis and other skin diseases. People with oily skin are often troubled by greasy skin. Sebaceous secretion is affected by many factors, and the oil control mechanism of cosmetics is complex. Therefore, the oil control efficacy of cosmetics requires a comprehensive and scientific evaluation at multiple layers and dimensions. The Classification Rules and Catalogue of Cosmetics defines the oil control effect as “helping to slow down the secretion and deposition of sebum at the application site, or making the oil secretion at the application site not obvious”. The Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulations require that cosmetic efficacy claims should have sufficient scientific basis. In this paper, starting with the basic mechanism of sebum secretion, the requirements of domestic and foreign laws and regulations, the mechanism of oil control cosmetics, the evaluation methods and research progress of oil control efficacy of cosmetics are described, and the establishment of a more comprehensive evaluation system of oil control efficacy of cosmetics is prospected. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of sebaceous glands in the field of skin care Wang Qian,Liu Fei,Yang Suzhen,Han Tingting,Wang Xiaomei,Chen Yurong China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (8): 904-912.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.016 Abstract （475）   HTML （37）    PDF（pc） （1199KB）（590）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, the incidence of disfiguring dermatosis such as acne vulgaris and atopic dermatitis has increased significantly, and its pathogenesis is closely related to abnormal sebaceous gland function. Sebaceous glands, located in the dermis, are important skin appendages. There are a large number of receptors on the sebaceous glands, which are regulated by a variety of factors. Abnormity in functions of sebaceous glands may cause a variety of skin problems. However, currently, domestic researchers have mostly paid attention to intercellular lipids, while the effects and mechanism of the sebum are not explored in depth, which causes lack of sufficient theoretical support in clinical application and the development of skin care products. In this paper, the mechanisms by which sebaceous glands maintain skin barrier function, participate in inflammation, and regulate senescence process and skin color from the perspective of skin care are summarized. Skin problems, detection methods and skin care ingredients related to sebaceous glands are systematically reviewed, aiming to provide references for solving relevant problems in skin care. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅲ）Mechanical properties of human hair Wu Yuwen, Bian Marina, Yue Zoe, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (3): 260-270.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.03.003 Abstract （445）   HTML （25）    PDF（pc） （2916KB）（581）       Knowledge map    Save The strength of mechanical properties is one of the most important criteria to measure the health conditioner of the hair. In healthy hair bundles, hair fiber processes excellent mechanical properties, while damaged hair bundles can break during daily combing. However, hair fiber is not a homogeneous material, so it is complicated to characterize its mechanical properties systematically and scientifically. Based on this point, this paper summarizes the testing methods of hair mechanical properties and the meaning of tensile curves, describes the influence of hair internal structure and composition on tensile properties, lists several factors affecting hair tensile properties and introduces several commercially available ingredients to enhance hair tensile properties and their mechanisms of action. This review is expected to provide a reference for the development of new hair care actives and products with hair strengthening effect. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅷ）Method for in vitro evaluation of hair growth prevention and research progress of plant anti-stripping raw materials Chen Xianqi,Ma Ling,Chen Timson,Chang Kuan,Wang Jing China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 873-881.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.003 Abstract （299）   HTML （28）    PDF（pc） （1619KB）（561）       Knowledge map    Save With the development of science and technology and the improvement of people’s living standards, the public’s aesthetic has gradually improved. People are more and more concerned about the appearance, especially the hair, and the prevention and hair growth have become the focus of everyone’s attention. Alopecia refers to a kind of physiological phenomenon that hair falls off, which is divided into physiological alopecia and pathological alopecia. Hair follicle （HF） plays an important role in the formation and growth of hair morphology, and different cell signaling pathways and growth factors are involved in the regulation of hair follicle growth cycle. Based on the human dermal papilla cell （HDPCs） model, several stress-inducing models in vitro were reviewed in this paper. Through the changes of markers in the models, the efficacy of anti-detachment materials was investigated and screened. In addition, several common plant anti-hair loss materials were listed, and their mechanism of action in hair follicles was summarized, hoping to provide reference for future research on anti-hair loss theory and raw material development. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application status and prospect of peptides in personal care products Yan Xin,Ling Feng,Wei Shaomin China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (9): 999-1004.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.012 Abstract （530）   HTML （29）    PDF（pc） （1158KB）（553）       Knowledge map    Save Peptides are a kind of active ingredient with skin care effect, which has been highly praised by the market and consumers in recent years. To understand the current situation of peptide application in personal care products globally, the brief history of peptide applications and their naming rules were reviewed. The peptide materials in Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China （2021 edition） and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook （2018 edition） were compared, and the products containing peptides and the companies with extensive use of peptides in the global market of personal care products from 2016 to 2020 were surveyed. 14 peptides that were frequently used were further studied and divided into three categories according to their action mechanism: signal peptide, neurotransmitter inhibitory peptide and carrier peptide. Some other active peptides were also briefly described. The application trend of peptides in personal care products was also prospected to provide reference for their further research, development, and application. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Influence of emulsifiers and thickener on formation of low-viscosity liquid crystal emulsions Guo Fang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (1): 16-23.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.003 Abstract （357）   HTML （28）    PDF（pc） （2211KB）（550）       Knowledge map    Save The effects of emulsifiers and thickeners on low-viscosity liquid crystal emulsions and their liquid crystal and ejection in binary aerosol propellants were studied, then the stability and ejection and liquid crystal of the low-viscosity emulsions were monitored by investigating their emulsifiers and thickener. Glycoside emulsifiers, alcohol ester emulsifiers and polyglycerol emulsifiers （single use and mixed use） were used to study their effects on emulsion viscosity and liquid crystal. Xanthan gum, Carbomer, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and their combinations were used to study the effects on viscosity, the stability and ejection state of the emulsions. The results show that polyglycerol emulsifier is suitable for low-viscosity liquid crystal emulsions, in addition, it is more easily to pump out in binary aerosol propellants with large opening angle. The open angle of low-viscosity emulsions in binary aerosol propellants is wider when the viscosity is lower, however, it is very difficult to prepare low viscosity emulsions with good high temperature stability as well as excellent centrifugal stability. Thickeners play a very important role in stability. Low-viscosity and stable emulsions can be prepared by Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer combined with Xanthan gum. The liquid crystal emulsions have smaller particle size with compounding emulsifier and the formation of liquid crystals is beneficial to the stability of emulsions. When the low viscosity liquid crystal emulsion is applied to the body, the moisture content increases significantly, and the transepidermis water loss （TEWL） decreases significantly, which proves that the emulsion has good moisturizing and repairing effects. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Experimental exploration on applicability of the mixture of polymer and surfactant as the drag reduction additives for firefighting system He Wenyun,Xu Na,Li Xiaokun,Zhang Jinyuan,Lv Yaodong,Zhang Xingfang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (9): 913-919.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.001 Abstract （2346）   HTML （34）    PDF（pc） （1712KB）（532）       Knowledge map    Save With the global energy scarcity, the exploration of process energy conservation method is of great significance. The fire fighting plays an important role in the national economy and social development. If the techniques of drag reduction by additives are applied to the firefighting system, the jet velocity and range of firefighting water can be directly increased without additional energy consumption, and consequently, the firefighting efficiency will be improved, and the power consumption of fire pumps will be reduced. According to the characteristics of fire water flow, polyethylene oxide （PEO）, octadecyl trimethyl ammonium chloride （OTAC） and sodium salicylate （NaSal） were chosen to be mixed as the drag reduction additives for the firefighting system. The drag reduction ability and surface tension of the mixed PEO/OTAC/NaSal solution were experimentally tested under different conditions. The results show that the PEO/OTAC/NaSal mixture is suitable for the firefighting system as the drag reduction additives, however, the PEO concentration must be controlled. Meanwhile, it is found that the drag reduction ability and surface tension of PEO/OTAC/NaSal solution mainly depend on the interactions between PEO and OTAC. Therefore, the mixture with strong interactions between polymer and surfactant molecules is more suitable for the firefighting system as drag reduction additives. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress in cosmetics applications and properties of mycosporine-like amino acids Fan Gaoning China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1366-1372.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.016 Abstract （664）   HTML （34）    PDF（pc） （1162KB）（503）       Knowledge map    Save Mycosporine-like amino acids （MAAs） are a class of secondary metabolites of aquatic organisms, which are widely distributed in algae, phytoplankton, cyanobacteria, microorganisms and marine animals. MAAs are low-molecular-weight （generally<400 Da）, colorless and water-soluble compounds. They are highly stable molecules under environmental conditions. They are composed of either an aminocyclohexenone or an aminocyclohexenimine ring. Multiple lines of evidence have supported that MAAs are derived from intermediates of the shikimate pathway and the pentose phosphate pathway. MAAs maximally absorb in the wavelength region of 268-362 nm and also exhibit high molar absorptivities （12 400-58 800 L/（mol·cm））. Therefore, due to these characteristics, they are the strongest UVA-absorbing compounds in nature. MAAs have potential for development as natural biocompatible sunscreens that protect against a diverse range of solar UVR which has induced adverse effects on human health. In addition, MAAs have additional protective roles such as antioxidant function and anti-aging. Herein, the research on the distribution, chemical structure, physico-chemical characteristics, biosynthesis, bioactivities of MAAs and their application in cosmetics are mainly introduced. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress in the dynamics of liquid drainage from complex foam system Yan Yongli,Cai Yuxiu,Dou Longlong,Cao Yuxia China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (9): 1011-1015.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.014 Abstract （1512）   HTML （15）    PDF（pc） （1140KB）（499）       Knowledge map    Save Bubbles play extremely important roles in our daily life and in the fields of industrial production, medicine, health care, etc. Concerning complex foam systems with different fine structures, they have a variety of flow and stability properties. However, the drainage behavior of complex foam systems has been far less studied compared with simple foams. Herein, the research status and development of dynamics of liquid drainage from complex foam systems are reviewed, including surfactant-aggregate-stabilized foams, nanoparticle-stabilized foams, and oil-water miscible foams. For the surfactant-aggregate-stabilized foam systems, two flow models such as Poiseuille flow and plug flow, and their kinetic equations are introduced. The drainage behaviors of nanoparticle-stabilized foam systems are emphasized in aspects of particle size effects and particle trapping and blocking effects. The two different forms of oil phase （dissolved oil/emulsified oil） have completely different effects on the drainage behavior of oil-water miscible foams. The drainage behaviors of complex foam systems with fine structures have not been well studied yet, and there are many theoretical disagreements and debates. It is necessary to carry out more in-depth research on basic theoretical issues. We believe that the research on the fluid drainage dynamics of complex foam systems will be a research hotspot at present and for a long time in the future. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （I）Liquid crystal emulsion system Zhou Kangfu, Yan Jiayi, Shang Yazhuo China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (9): 1008-1017.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.003 Abstract （408）   HTML （31）    PDF（pc） （4080KB）（491）       Knowledge map    Save Liquid crystal emulsion system is a new type of emulsion system, in which the surfactant （emulsifier） molecules locate at the oil/water interface and form a long-range ordered and short-range disordered liquid crystal structure （usually lamellar liquid crystal）. The lamellar liquid crystals formed by emulsifier are similar to the skin stratum corneum lipid structure, which enable it a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics, biomedicine, etc. With the further understanding of the liquid crystal and the gradual recognition of the advantages of liquid crystal emulsion products, the liquid crystal emulsion system has been used in high-end cosmetics widely in the past few years. In this paper, the liquid crystal and the liquid crystal emulsion system are introduced firstly and then the factors of affecting the formation of liquid crystal in emulsions are summarized. The properties of liquid crystal emulsion systems including the stability, water locking property, sustained-release property, penetration enhancing property as well as the skin sense are also provided. On this basis, the application of liquid crystal emulsion system in the cosmetic field is expounded. Furthermore, the novel liquid crystal emulsion system developed in recent years, including crystal encapsulated in liquid crystal emulsion and multiple liquid crystal emulsion are introduced. Finally, the limitations of the application of liquid crystal emulsion system in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, which may provide necessary reference for the development and effective application of liquid crystal emulsion system. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Scientific evaluation methods for soothing cosmetics efficacy Feng Faqing, Li Jing China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (7): 816-825.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.012 Abstract （402）   HTML （33）    PDF（pc） （1015KB）（491）       Knowledge map    Save Under the influence of factors such as the aggravation of environmental pollution and changes in skincare and beauty habits, skin irritation occurs more frequently. Starting from the symptoms perceived by consumers, which mainly include erythema, itching, burning sensation, tightness, dryness, pain and other skin irritation states, this article reviews the possible mechanism and process, and sorts out the efficacy evaluation methods. At present, a variety of evaluation methods applied to food, medicine, clinical efficacy research and other fields have been reported, while there are few related reviews on soothing cosmetics efficacy. In this article, on the basis of the mechanism of triggering the skin irritation states, we review various evaluation methods on three pathways of skin inflammatory response, skin barrier and neural response, which are divided into laboratory tests （including biochemical methods, cell biological methods, three-dimensional recombinant skin models, animal and the animal alternative experiment methods）, consumer use testing and human efficacy evaluation tests （including subjective, semi-subjective and objective instrumental evaluation methods）, and overview their applications in efficacy evaluation of cosmetics, expecting to provide new ideas of scientific efficacy evaluation for soothing cosmetics. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the inf luence of KCl on the evolution of foam of an anionic surfactant Qiang Xuefeng, Zhang Li, Zheng Bin, Hou Qianqian, Yan Kun China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (7): 733-741.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.001 Abstract （208）   HTML （18）    PDF（pc） （1991KB）（491）       Knowledge map    Save Foams are widely used in many fields, such as food, cosmetics, medicine, and mineral flotation. The addition of inorganic salts to ionic surfactants will affect the adsorption of surfactants at the air-liquid interface and the solubility of surfactants in solution, thus influencing the evolution of foams. At present, the influences of salts on the evolution of foams of ionic surfactants are still not clear. In this work, the influence of potassium chloride （KCl） on the evolution of foam of sodium dodecyl sulfate （SDS） in the low concentration range was systematically studied. It was found that, when the concentrations of salt and surfactant were both low, the stability of the foam prepared was similar to that without salt, in which the foam was stabilized by surfactant molecules; when the concentrations of salt and surfactant were both increased and their concentrations were close to each other, the salt promoted the adsorption and crystallization of surfactant molecules at the air-liquid interface due to electrostatic interaction, making the stability of foam better than that of pure surfactant, in which the foam was stabilized by inorganic-salt enhanced surfactant molecules; when the salt concentration was slightly higher than the surfactant concentration, the surfactant crystal particles adsorbed on the network of foam, and the local crystals destroyed the liquid film of foam, thus making the foam unstable, in which the foam was stabilized by surfactant molecules under the interference of surfactant crystals; when the salt concentration was further increased, the surfactant crystal particles completely covered on the air-liquid interface of foam, and ultra-stable Pickering foam was obtained by forming solid particle barrier. This research work might have important theoretical guiding significance for further exploring the evolution theory of foams stabilized by surfactant crystal particles and their applications in related fields. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effect of recombinant humanized type Ⅲ collagen on expression of skin functional related genes Fan Ting,Zhao Jianfeng,Chang Yejun,Ji Le China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1326-1332.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.010 Abstract （475）   HTML （14）    PDF（pc） （1323KB）（489）       Knowledge map    Save At present, the extraction of collagen is mainly from animal skin tissues, such as pigs, cattle, fish, and so on, which has certain virus hidden trouble. In order to obtain safer and better collagen, scholars have used gene recombination technology to produce recombinant human collagen. Type Ⅲ collagen is the main collagen in human skin, so the use of recombinant type Ⅲ collagen is of great significance for the study of skin properties. The recombinant humanized type Ⅲ collagen is obtained by optimizing recombinant expression of a human collagen original gene sequence that is highly consistent with a human natural collagen amino acid sequence. In order to explore the effect of recombinant humanized type Ⅲ collagen on alleviating skin wrinkles when applied to cosmetics, its anti-wrinkle effect was verified at the skin functional gene level by testing on human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The results show that 5 mg/mL RHC Ⅲ can significantly promote the expression of collagen synthesis-related genes Collagen Ⅰ, Collagen Ⅲ and Smad3 in human skin fibroblasts. Meanwhile, under UVA stimulation, the expression of collagen degradation related genes MMP-1, MMP-3, c-jun and c-fos can be significantly inhibited. Acting on keratinocytes can significantly promote the expression of skin barrier and moisturizing-related genes LOR, TGM1, IVL, OCLN1, DSG1, FLG, Caspase14 and K1.To sum up, the sample recombinant type Ⅲ collagen has anti-wrinkle effect at the mass concentration of 5 mg/mL. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and characterization of ethyl cellulose-sodium alginate/chitosan microgels Qi Jiayue,Mao Yi,Chen Linqian,Wang Jing,Yang Cheng,Sun Yajuan China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1259-1268.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.001 Abstract （2395）   HTML （26）    PDF（pc） （1930KB）（487）       Knowledge map    Save The porous nature of microgels allows soluble active ingredients to diffuse into or out of the particles. As a result, the release performance of microgels usually can only sustain for 5 hours, which greatly limits their application. Therefore, to solve the problems of the poorly sustained release performance of common microgel systems, a new type of （ethyl cellulose）-coated sodium alginate/chitosan （EC-Alginate/CS） microgel was prepared. An one-step emulsification method was employed to generate the new type of EC-Alginate/CS core-shell microgel. Ultra-depth microscope, scanning electron microscope （SEM）, infrared spectroscopy （FT IR）, thermogravimetric analysis （TGA）, water contact angle （WCA） and swelling ratio were used to characterize the matrix hydrogels and microgels prepared at the same water phase composition to optimize the EC-Alginate/CS core-shell microgels. The cytotoxicity experiments showed that the cell viability of mouse mononuclear macrophages （RAW264.7） at 0.1 g/L was 89.3%, which could prove that the system had good biocompatibility at this concentration. It was found that the encapsulation efficiency （EE） of microgels could achieve 67.1%. The cumulative release effect of the model drug methyl blue （MB） showed that the system could achieve a sustained release of 15 h with a certain pH sensitivity. This study provided theoretical support and application reference for the bioavailable sustained-release system for water-soluble active substances, and it might be further applied to daily chemical products such as cosmetics and laundry detergents. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Common cosmetic preparation technologies （Ⅳ） Powerful particulates: Powders Bao Jie,Feng Yun,Fan Jianru,Shi Jing,Xu Guiyun,Fan Jinshi China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (10): 1049-1054.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.10.003 Abstract （408）   HTML （22）    PDF（pc） （1070KB）（487）       Knowledge map    Save Powder refers to the dry preparation made up of particulate matters or pressed fine granules, usually prepared by mixing, pulverizing the functional ingredients together with auxiliary excipients and appropriate additives. For a long time, powders have been widely used in medicine, pesticides, cosmetics, oral hygiene, fertilizers, printing ink, chemicals, materials, coating, fodder and other fields. Beyond question, the functions of powders are mainly determined by the properties of the key active ingredients, but the characteristics of the powder, such as particle size, particle shape, specific surface area, density, hygroscopicity and flowability, are also directly related to the actual effects of the powder. Herein, the characteristics, the production equipments and the production process of powders were introduced. Furthermore, some typical applications of powders in beauty cosmetics, whitening cosmetics, sunscreen cosmetics, facial masks, cosmeceuticals and oral hygiene products in recent years were introduced. Finally, several environmental, safety items during the production and use of powders were mentioned. The priorities in research and development, and the directions of development for powders in the future were also pointed out. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅳ） Development of protein and polypeptide ingredients for hair care Fan Jiayi, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (4): 382-389.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.003 Abstract （368）   HTML （38）    PDF（pc） （1963KB）（481）       Knowledge map    Save With the development of hair cosmetics, many new raw materials have been developed and widely applied. More and more raw materials such as proteins and polypeptides have been applied in a variety of hair cosmetics, including shampoos, hair conditioners, hair masks, etc. Adding some proteins or polypeptides into hair cosmetics can effectively improve the mechanical strength, flexibility and hydrophobicity of hair, so they have repair effects on photoaging and chemical damage such as hair reduction during perming and hair bleaching during coloring. In this review, the research progress of hair care materials based on proteins and polypeptides was introduced, including the sources, extraction methods, hair care mechanism, hair care effect, etc. This review could provide a guideline for the research and development of hair care materials based on proteins and polypeptides. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and anti-staining properties of N-vinyl pyrrolidone/N-vinyl imidazole polymers Zhang Senlin, Sun Xudong, Zhang Lingfei, Wang Yun China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (6): 658-664.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.06.007 Abstract （216）   HTML （9）    PDF（pc） （2817KB）（470）       Knowledge map    Save Three kinds of N-vinyl pyrrolidone （NVP）/N-vinyl imidazole （NVI） polymers （VP/VI polymers） with different monomer ratios were synthesized, and all samples were characterized and analyzed by Ubbelohde viscometer, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy （FT-IR） and gel permeation chromatography （GPC）. The results showed that the K values of the three copolymers were around 30, and the weight average molecular weights （MW） of the three copolymers were 37 848, 22 656 and 8 111, respectively. The anti-staining properties of the VP/VI polymers were tested by ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer （UV-vis） and anti-staining experiments. With the addition of VPVI-P, VPVI-5 and VPVI-7,the maximum absorption wavelength （λmax） of the Direct Red 28solution was red shifted from 499 nm to 520 nm, 527 nm and 531 nm, respectively. The absorbance value at λmax was increased from 0.30 to 0.39 as the mass concentration of the VP/VI polymer was increased from 0 g/L to 5.0×10-2 g/L. The λmax of the Direct Dark Blue solution was red shifted from 558 nm to approximately 576 nm and the absorbance at λmax was increased from 0.15 to around 0.35 as the mass concentration of the VP/VI polymer was increased. It indicated obvious interactions between the VP/VI polymers and the dye molecules （Congo red and direct blue）. It showed better performance in the anti-staining experiments as the content of NVI component was increased in the polymers. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on skin care efficacy of AIMP1 derived peptide Yang Xiufen,Ma Wenjun,Li Lei,Wang Peipei,Zheng Chunyang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (2): 171-179.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.02.007 Abstract （195）   HTML （10）    PDF（pc） （2188KB）（470）       Knowledge map    Save Advanced glycation end-products （AGEs） are produced during protein glycation and associated with skin ageing. The AIMP1 derived peptide （AdP） which is derived from aminoacyl tRNA synthase interacting multifunctional protein 1 may be used as an inhibitor of glycation. This study evaluated the potential anti-glycation effect of AdP and its application in cosmetic. Thirty valid subjects were selected as the research subjects, and non-invasive instruments were used to detect and record the water content, TEWL, R2, ITA°, wrinkle area/AOI area in the test group and the control group at 0, 4 and 8 weeks using corresponding products. The results show that the glycosylation reaction between BSA and glucose is inhibited by AdP, and the formation of protein carbonyl is reduced in a concentration-dependent manner. The applications of AdP in cosmetic has significant effects on improving the stratum corneum water content, the R2 value, the ITA° value, and the reducing the TEWL value and wrinkles. These findings suggest that AdP may serve as an inhibitor of glycation and provide new insights into its application. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Recent progress on the application status of cosmetic preservatives and their detection technology Zhu Hairong, Sun Shengmin, Zhang Juan, Liu Shuang, Liu Qianqian, Zou Huiling China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (6): 679-685.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.06.010 Abstract （262）   HTML （15）    PDF（pc） （1006KB）（464）       Knowledge map    Save Preservatives in cosmetics play an important role in inhibiting the growth of microbial and maintaining the product quality. With the influence of domestic and foreign residents' consumption level upgrading and the rapid development of Internet and other factors, the market demand of domestic cosmetics is growing steadily. However, the improper use of preservatives could be harmful to human health and cause negative effects on environment and ecological security. With the frequent occurrence of cosmetic safety incidents, the safety awareness of consumers has been improved and the industry regulations has been strengthened. Nowadays, the addition of preservatives has received much attention, which sets a higher request to the market regulations of cosmetics preservatives. The species of the cosmetic preservatives used at home and abroad have significantly increased. Accordingly, the analytical methods for single preservatives are difficult to meet new regulatory requirements. With the rapid upgrade of modern instrumental analysis technology, high-throughput, efficient, high-sensitivity and low-cost detection methods are essential to push the development of the industry. In this review, the current status of cosmetic preservatives is outlined and the up to date applications of conventional instruments for their detections have been summarized. Some novel detection methods are introduced, such as high performance liquid chromatography-inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry and laser desorption ionization mass spectrometry. The market development of cosmetic preservatives and detection technology on them are analyzed and prospected, which would shed light on the high-throughput rapid detection of cosmetic preservatives in the future. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of SiO2 antireflective coatings by sol-gel method Jing Ximing,Sheng Yonggang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (2): 210-219.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.02.012 Abstract （190）   HTML （18）    PDF（pc） （1435KB）（445）       Knowledge map    Save Antireflection film （antireflective coating） has been widely used in military applications, daily life, industry, etc., especially in high-energy laser systems （one of the most important technologies for inertial confinement fusion）. In this paper, the optical principle of antireflective coating was analyzed, and the characteristics of its common manufacturing material silica （SiO2） were introduced. The principle and unique advantages of the antireflective coating prepared by the sol-gel method were described. The process of sol-gel plating antireflective coating was described. The precursor SiO2 sol was prepared by reaction, and then the antireflective coating was made by dip coating, spin coating, spraying, and coating. Various chemical reactions in the precursor sol were analyzed. The effects of various factors of reactions on the SiO2 material and the antireflective coating prepared from it were analyzed. Finally, the new research progress in the preparation of antireflective coatings by sol-gel method was reviewed, such as adding additives to the sol, modifying the materials to be coated, and combining with other methods to prepare the antireflective coatings. The antireflective coatings prepared by those methods not only enhance the optical properties of the film but also have functions such as self-cleaning function. Their wide applications in a variety of cutting-edge fields of technology, e.g., in photovoltaic industry, LED lighting, etc., were also prospected. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Technical key points of intelligent evaluation of cosmetics in China Su Zhe,Hu Kang,Lv Bingfeng,Ta Na,Wang Gangli,Lu Yong China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (10): 1113-1120.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.10.012 Abstract （252）   HTML （13）    PDF（pc） （1118KB）（423）       Knowledge map    Save In order to implement the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics, the National Medical Products Administration has established new regulations and technical systems and organized the construction of a cosmetics registration and filing information service platform. The National Institutes for Food and Drug Control has carried out research on the intelligent evaluation of cosmetics. In this study, based on the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics and its supporting regulations, the contents of the registration or filing documents and the concerns in technical evaluation work, the researchers summarized the key points that could be automatically detected and reviewed by the IT system, analyzed the technical path, databases to be integrated, and logic rules, and discussed the possible application in technical evaluation and supervision. So far, a series of key points for intelligent evaluation of cosmetics have been established, covering product formula and ingredient use, product test reports, product label, product implementation standard and safety evaluation report, and a standardized filling and automatic formal examination of the abstract of efficacy claim evaluation has also been developed. This work will provide technical support for intelligent evaluation and supervision of cosmetics in China. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅵ）Characteristics and regulation of scalp sebum Wan Kaibo, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (6): 634-641.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.06.004 Abstract （416）   HTML （34）    PDF（pc） （1932KB）（423）       Knowledge map    Save Scalp health has been increasingly focused by the consumers while choosing hair products. Scalp sebum is one of the key factors affecting scalp health. Sebum is an important component of the scalp barrier, which plays the roles of protecting the skin, preserving moisture and maintaining skin homeostasis. It is secreted by the sebaceous glands. Sebaceous glands are located in the dermis and produce sebum through holocrine secretion. There are a large number of receptors on sebaceous glands, which are regulated by a variety of mechanisms. Abnormality in functions of sebaceous glands can lead to a variety of diseases and a series of scalp health problems. Herein, the functions and characteristics of sebum and sebaceous glands are summarized. Several current theories of sebum regulation are introduced. The experimental evaluation methods of sebum secretion are summarized. The raw materials of oil-control products on the market and their mechanisms are also summarized, which might provide reference both for the skin care problems related to the functions of sebaceous glands and the development of oil-control products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion Lv Yawen,Wang Jingwen,Ye Zhicheng,Shang Yazhuo,Liu Honglai China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (2): 121-132.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.02.001 Abstract （369）   HTML （28）    PDF（pc） （5703KB）（419）       Knowledge map    Save A type of polyol-in-oil-in-liquid crystal-in-water （P/O/LC/W） multiple emulsion was prepared by two-step method with liquid crystal emulsifier and traditional emulsifier. The samples were characterized by microscopy. The effects of different liquid crystal emulsifiers, emulsification temperature and homogenization rate on the microstructure of P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion were studied. The steps of preparation process were as follows: The emulsification temperature was 60-75 ℃; the homogenization rate of polyol in oil was 7 000-8 400 r/min and homogenization time was ~6 min; the homogenization rate of polyol in oil in liquid crystal in water was 4 400-6 000 r/min and homogenization time was ~7 min. The emulsion was put at room temperature for 28 days, and multiple structures and liquid crystal structures could still be observed, and the liquid crystal became brighter. The components of the formula were glycerol （polyol phase）, squalane （oil phase）, P135 （hydrophobic emulsifier）, and IST-LC001 （liquid crystal emulsifier）. The ideal emulsion structure could thus be obtained. The formula was used to encapsulate active substances. Resveratrol was used as the target molecule for sustained-release experiment. The results of dialysis experiments in vitro showed that the P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion had a remarkable slow-release performance. The release ratio of target molecule was up to 83% after 10 h. When shikonin was used as the target molecule, it was proved that the P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion could mask the color of the target molecule. Compared with traditional emulsion, the color of P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion was lighter. Rheological measurement showed that the viscosity of the emulsion decreased with the increase of shear stress, indicative of positive thixotropy. Within the investigated range, the storage modulus of the emulsion was always higher than that of loss modulus, exhibiting elastic properties. The internal structure of the emulsion was stable and the emulsion could bring good skin feel to skin care products. The experimental results showed that, the P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion could not only solve the problems in application of insoluble functional ingredients in formulations, but also effectively deliver these active substances and achieve slow-release. The emulsion could also mask the color of introduced ingredients and improve the skin feel of products. The P/O/LC/W multiple emulsion has wide application value in the fields of medicine, food, cosmetics, etc. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （I） Effects of moisture on the properties of hair and the study on moisturizing efficacy Wu Yuwen, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (1): 8-15.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.002 Abstract （645）   HTML （33）    PDF（pc） （1486KB）（415）       Knowledge map    Save Moisture is important for hair. Water molecules exist in the hair in different states through the interactions with keratin. The water content and its existing form will directly affect some properties of hair, and the damage of the hair will also affect the internal moisture of the hair. The health/damage status of the hair can be reflected by exploring the moisture content of hair and the existing status. Herein, the characterization methods of hair internal moisture content and storage state were reviewed. The meaning of hair water absorption/loss curve was elucidated. The relationships between hair moisture content and loss rate and hair properties were analyzed. Several kinds of hair moisturizers and their moisturizing mechanisms were introduced. This review may provide basis for the development and application of moisturizing ingredients in hair care products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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“Jelly” phenomenon rheology study and improvement in shampoo system Liang Yihuan,Du Jing China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (9): 920-929.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.002 Abstract （2719）   HTML （50）    PDF（pc） （1020KB）（413）       Knowledge map    Save “Jelly” phenomenon of two combined surfactant systems （SLES+CAPB and LS+CAPB） within temperature range of 0 ℃ to 40 ℃ were studied via two types of dynamic rheology tests, temperature sweep and frequency sweep. The results show that the phenomenon is mainly caused by the mechanism of wormlike micelles self-thickening structure. They both happen to appear in SLES+CAPB bases and LS+CAPB bases. The gelation range demonstrated by dynamic temperature constant frequency sweep appears in the systems which generates capability to form wormlike micelles. And the addition of Versathix （PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate （and） PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide） can intensify the phenomenon because its anchor chemical structure helps to build up the 3D network in between wormlike micelles and to consolidate its entangled transient interspace micellar structure. The systems with wormlike micelles can be verified by dynamic frequency constant temperature sweep and draw the graph of ‘Cole-Cole’ curve with the result of Maxwell trend. All over the trials, viscosity of SLES+CAPB systems could be thickened by sodium chloride with salt shielding effect to form wormlike micelles self-thickening structure. However, viscosity of LS+CAPB system can only form wormlike micelles with a certain low pH range. On the other hand, systems which can only form spherical micelles do not show gelation range according to temperature sweep results, even in those systems using a large use level of Versathix. The systems containing spherical micelles thickened by Versathix show Maxwell trend in ‘Cole-Cole’ curve transferred from the results of dynamic frequency constant temperature sweep as well. This is due to the network effect provided by the thickener. The microstructural difference of wormlike micelles and Versathix thickening systems were confirmed via characterization with Cryo-TEM images. In shampoo formulations, applying 0.5% use level of emollients with good solubilities may help to reduce “jelly” phenomenon during low temperature condition. However, some of those emollients may influence on viscosity at room temperature. According to the study results, Cromollient SCE （Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate） out of other ingredients can help to reduce this phenomenon with practical applying significance. Cromollient SCE does not influence much on system viscosity within room temperature range. And it can keep good clarity even using in surfactant systems. In addition, this ingredient can work as hair conditioning agent and help to reduce irritation mitigation in surfactant-based systems with additional benefits. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on the interactions between surfactants and skin Li Qiang, Gong Shengzhao, Wan Yuepeng, Meng Xiao China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (1): 71-78.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.010 Abstract （416）   HTML （27）    PDF（pc） （1262KB）（411）       Knowledge map    Save Surfactants are the main cleaning ingredients in personal care and cleaning products, which may have diverse effects on the skin. The potential of surfactants in skin irritation is related to surfactant structure, concentration, exposure time/frequency, initial skin condition and other factors. During the cleaning process, oil, dirt, sweat and sebum are removed through the action of surfactants. Surfactants may interact with the surface of the epidermis causing denaturation of proteins and induce the elution and damage to the structure of the intercellular cement of stratum corneum. Consequently, consumers may experience a range of cutaneous symptoms including dry skin, burning sensation, and loss of skin elasticity. Meanwhile, as the surfactants penetrate into deeper skin layers, there will be a damaging effect on living cells such as keratinocytes and it leads to a local inflammatory response, causing the release of inflammatory mediators from cells. This process may result in topical skin lesions presenting as red skin, desquamation and erythema. This paper presented a review of literature on the interactions between surfactants and skin. The surfactant behavior in solution, the relationship between surfactant structure and skin irritation, and the interactions with skin lipids and living skin cells were discussed. The future development of methods for reducing skin irritation potential for household chemicals and body wash cosmetics was prospected. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Common cosmetic preparation technologies（Ⅵ） Preparation sharing properties of both solids and liquids: Semisolid Tang Wenjun,Wang Changyun,Xu Guiyun,Niu Qianxue,Fan Jinshi China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1278-1285.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.003 Abstract （1514）   HTML （11）    PDF（pc） （1190KB）（406）       Knowledge map    Save Semisolid is one kind of natural existing material state in nature, and is also a very important product preparation among many different industry fields. Possessing dual properties of both solid and liquid, semisolid is a kind of concentrated dispersion system with non-Newtonian rheological behavior. Semisolid usually appears as paste with right consistency, which is made up of uniformly mixed particular active ingredients and suitable base materials. Semisolid preparations have been widely used in medicine, cosmetics, daily-use chemicals, food, agriculture, papermaking, textile, printing, dyeing and the other fields. Being a quite important cosmetic preparation, semisolid has many fascinating advantages, such as abundant types, easy manufacture, convenient use, stable quality, high efficiency and versatile functions. Herein, the composition and rheological property, the base substances and active components, the essential requirements and production methods of semisolid are totally introduced. The characteristics, composition and applications of some typical semisolid cosmetics are also presented in detail. Meanwhile, the main research content and key development directions of semisolid on which continuous attention should be paid are also briefly pointed out. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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The protection mechanism of multi-herb extract CAP against exogenous cutaneous stimulation Zhou Lidan, Lu Yina, Yang Jifeng, Shi Xuemei, Xiong Yue, Zhang Lei China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (7): 757-764.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.004 Abstract （160）   HTML （11）    PDF（pc） （1807KB）（406）       Knowledge map    Save The skin contains a myriad of immune cells and acts as the first line of defense system against the external environment both as a physical and immune barrier. The cutaneous immune system begins to work even before birth and continuously evolves throughout the lifetime to achieve optimal function by adapting to environmental cues. This study explored the potential mechanism of multi-herb extract CAP against exogenous cutaneous stimulation and discussed the key modulators that drove productive immune responses in skin epidermis and dermal layer immune cells, including keratinocytes, monocytes, and mast cells. Also, a three-dimensional （3D） reconstructed human epidermis model （EpiKutis） was used to perform relevant assays. CAP reduced the expressions of thymic stromal lymphopoietin （TSLP）, interleukin-8 （IL-8）, prostaglandin E2 （PGE-2）, interleukin-6 （IL-6）, and tumor necrosis factor-alpha （TNF-α） that were increased by exogenous stimuli in keratinocytes, 3D EpiKutis, THP-1- derived cells or mast cells. Furthermore, CAP dose-dependently promoted filaggrin level which was decreased by poly （I:C） and LPS induction. These results suggest that CAP might have regulatory functions on keratinocytes, monocytes, and mast cells, which play important roles on the sense, initial and primary stages of the skin inflammatory reactions, respectively. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Common cosmetic preparation technologies （Ⅱ）Powerful controlled release tool: Microencapsulation Hao Yang,Wang Changyun,Fan Jianru,Feng Yun,Li Zhenqiu,Xu Guiyun,Fan Jinshi China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (8): 805-811.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.002 Abstract （574）   HTML （35）    PDF（pc） （1094KB）（405）       Knowledge map    Save Microcapsule is a kind of tiny ‘shell-core’ complex structure formed by film-forming materials coating gaseous, liquid or solid active ingredients. Microencapsulation can effectively reduce the influence of the external environment on the encapsulated ingredients, enhancing the stability of the active ingredients. Moreover, microencapsulation can control the release of encapsulated materials by mechanical technique, heating or chemical reaction, which markedly improves the performance of encapsulated materials. Diverse types of microcapsules with controlled performance have been widely used in many industrial fields, such as cosmetics, perfume, food, medicine, pesticides, flame retardants, papermaking, textile dyeing and textile finishing. Herein, the development of microencapsulation technology, the basic properties of microcapsules, the categories of microcapsule wall materials, and the functional properties of microcapsules were introduced. Furthermore, the typical applications of microencapsulation in hair lotion, hair dye, sun screener, functional cosmetics and several perfumes in recent years were mentioned. The research and development trend of microencapsulation was also briefly pointed out. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Common cosmetic preparation technologies （V）Artificial biological membrane: Liposomes Shi Jing,Feng Yun,Qi Xi,Xu Guiyun,Fan Jinshi China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (11): 1162-1168.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.11.003 Abstract （1323）   HTML （22）    PDF（pc） （1340KB）（404）       Knowledge map    Save Liposomes, one of the most attractive nanocarriers, are spherical microvesicles that have an internal aqueous core surrounded with a single or multiple concentric lipid bilayers. The lipid formulations are made of naturally occurring lipids or synthetic lipids and surfactants not existing in biological systems. Liposomes resemble cell membrane in terms of structure and composition that are considered as a significant candidate for the improvement of drug delivery systems. Furthermore, liposomes suggest various advantages such as biocompatibility, high loading capacity, increasing half-life, low toxicity, good solubilization and stability of incorporating drugs and preventing the degradation of the medicine in the physiological environment. Besides medicine, liposomes have also been used in many other fields such as food and cosmetics. Herein, the composition, structure, classification, physicochemical properties and preparation methods of liposomes are introduced, respectively. The characteristics of liposomes dosage forms and the transdermal absorption mechanism vitally related to the application of liposomes in the medicine and cosmetics are also briefly presented. Meanwhile, the common applications of liposomes in medicine, food and cosmetics are outlined, as well as the future directions of liposomes research and development are pointed out. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on chemical risk substances and related detection methods in cosmetics Gu Yuxiang,Yang Baogang,Lu Yi China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (9): 990-998.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.011 Abstract （1301）   HTML （33）    PDF（pc） （997KB）（402）       Knowledge map    Save The chemical risk substances involved in the safety assessment of cosmetics were summarized. The requirements for impurities in restricted and approved substances were specified in the “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics”, and the possible risk substances in raw materials in the standards of cosmetics raw materials, domestic and foreign research and literature were presented. It is concluded that many approved colorants contain risk substances, however, there are little detection methods of these impurities. Although there are many product standards of dyes or food additives, no cosmetic raw material standard of approved colorants is released. The quality indicators of most dyes or food additives do not match the requirements of “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics”. It is indicated that many risk substances that may be contained in common raw materials are prohibited substances in cosmetics, which come from degradation, introduction of raw materials, by-products of chemical reaction, et al. Most of these impurities have determination standards or literature testing methods. Since there are no residue requirements in standard or assessment for chlorotoluene, nitromethane and other risk substances which rare prohibited substances in cosmetics, it is necessary to calculate the MoS, LCR or AEL according to their toxicological data and exposure dose during the safety assessment, in order to judge the safety of the product. In the future, with the in-depth development of raw material safety assessment, more and more risk substances would be found. It is suggested to strengthen the research of cosmetics raw materials, especially the quality standards of approved colorants and the detection methods of their risk substances, so as to enrich the system of cosmetics standards. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics