Most Down Articles

Published in last 1 year | In last 2 years| In last 3 years| All| Most Downloaded in Recent Month | Most Downloaded in Recent Year|

In last 2 years

Please wait a minute...


For Selected: Download Citations EndNote Reference Manager ProCite BibTeX RefWorks Toggle Thumbnails

Select

Botanical cosmetic ingredients （VII）Research and development of plant antifungal Jingxuan Liu, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (3): 259-266.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.03.003 Abstract （141）   HTML （15）    PDF（pc） （1458KB）（1223）       Knowledge map    Save This paper describes skin fungi and fungal skin infections, and summarizes the antifungal mechanism and the corresponding drug targets of the bioactive compounds from plants. The active antifungal compounds from plants include polyphenols, alkaloids, flavonoids, terpenoids, steroids and essential oils, etc. The main antifungal mechanism is inhibition of fungal cell wall and cell membrane biosynthesis. The target of cell wall biosynthesis inhibition is via inhibiting the activities of β-glucan synthetase, chitin synthase and mannan synthase. And the target of cell membrane biosynthesis inhibition is via inhibiting the synthesis of the structural components, ergosterol and sphingolipids. By inhibiting ergosterol synthetase, serine palmitoyltransferase, ceramide synthase and myo-inositol phosphatidyl ceramide synthase, the active components from plants can also directly bind to ergosterol and sphingolipids and destruct the cell membrane. In addition, phenols, alkaloids, flavonoids, terpenoids and essential oils also target mitochondrion to display antifungal activity, by inducing reactive oxygen species （ROS） accumulation, inhibiting ATP biosynthesis and proton pumps, and disrupt the mitochondrial respiration and metabolic system. This paper has reviewed the antifungal mechanisms of bioactive compounds from plants, hoping to provide a reference for the applications of plant materials in cosmetics, for a better maintaining of skin health. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Efficacy assessment for skin microecology/microbiome-modulating cosmetics Yumei Zheng, Rong Hu, Wenhai Wu, Liya Song, Wen Wang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1382-1390.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.013 Abstract （955）   HTML （5）    PDF（pc） （1139KB）（949）       Knowledge map    Save The in vitro and in vivo evaluation methods of microecological skin care products were summarized. Cosmetics can regulate skin microecological balance by directly changing the number, growth metabolism, community structure, and population effect of skin microorganisms, or by regulating skin immune response and improving skin physiological function. The number, growth and metabolism level, population effect of skin microorganisms and skin immune response status are often evaluated by in vitro method. Skin microbial diversity, community structure, and skin physiological state are often tested by human methods, combined with high-throughput sequencing technologies such as 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing, ITS amplicon sequencing, and shotgun metagenomic sequencing. Different evaluation methods have different dimensions and advantages. The in vitro method is more targeted and the test conditions are easy to control, but the model is too simple and lack of activity. In contrast, clinical trials are more holistic and in line with real use scenarios, but it is difficult to qualitative analyze the complex causal relationship among individuals, product use and microbiome changes. In the process of efficacy evaluation, the combination of in vitro and in vivo can complement the limitations of different evaluation methods to a certain extent, and can provide a more complete evidence chain for the efficacy evaluation of products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅷ）Method for in vitro evaluation of hair growth prevention and research progress of plant anti-stripping raw materials Chen Xianqi,Ma Ling,Chen Timson,Chang Kuan,Wang Jing China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 873-881.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.003 Abstract （299）   HTML （28）    PDF（pc） （1619KB）（561）       Knowledge map    Save With the development of science and technology and the improvement of people’s living standards, the public’s aesthetic has gradually improved. People are more and more concerned about the appearance, especially the hair, and the prevention and hair growth have become the focus of everyone’s attention. Alopecia refers to a kind of physiological phenomenon that hair falls off, which is divided into physiological alopecia and pathological alopecia. Hair follicle （HF） plays an important role in the formation and growth of hair morphology, and different cell signaling pathways and growth factors are involved in the regulation of hair follicle growth cycle. Based on the human dermal papilla cell （HDPCs） model, several stress-inducing models in vitro were reviewed in this paper. Through the changes of markers in the models, the efficacy of anti-detachment materials was investigated and screened. In addition, several common plant anti-hair loss materials were listed, and their mechanism of action in hair follicles was summarized, hoping to provide reference for future research on anti-hair loss theory and raw material development. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （I）Liquid crystal emulsion system Zhou Kangfu, Yan Jiayi, Shang Yazhuo China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (9): 1008-1017.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.003 Abstract （408）   HTML （31）    PDF（pc） （4080KB）（491）       Knowledge map    Save Liquid crystal emulsion system is a new type of emulsion system, in which the surfactant （emulsifier） molecules locate at the oil/water interface and form a long-range ordered and short-range disordered liquid crystal structure （usually lamellar liquid crystal）. The lamellar liquid crystals formed by emulsifier are similar to the skin stratum corneum lipid structure, which enable it a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics, biomedicine, etc. With the further understanding of the liquid crystal and the gradual recognition of the advantages of liquid crystal emulsion products, the liquid crystal emulsion system has been used in high-end cosmetics widely in the past few years. In this paper, the liquid crystal and the liquid crystal emulsion system are introduced firstly and then the factors of affecting the formation of liquid crystal in emulsions are summarized. The properties of liquid crystal emulsion systems including the stability, water locking property, sustained-release property, penetration enhancing property as well as the skin sense are also provided. On this basis, the application of liquid crystal emulsion system in the cosmetic field is expounded. Furthermore, the novel liquid crystal emulsion system developed in recent years, including crystal encapsulated in liquid crystal emulsion and multiple liquid crystal emulsion are introduced. Finally, the limitations of the application of liquid crystal emulsion system in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, which may provide necessary reference for the development and effective application of liquid crystal emulsion system. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Evaluation of anti-oxidation and whitening efficacy of silk fibroin peptides from tussah Antherae pernyi Li Xuejun,Mi Rui,Wang Linmei,Li Yajie,Chen Xue,Du Xingfan China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 891-898.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.005 Abstract （228）   HTML （40）    PDF（pc） （1442KB）（305）       Knowledge map    Save Study on antioxidant and whitening efficacy of tussah fibroin peptides was conducted. The results show that the IC50 of DPPH free radical scavenging rate of NO.1 （molecular weight 2 000-5 000 Da） and NO.2 （molecular weight<2 000 Da） samples are 1.41 and 3.84 mg/mL, respectively, and the IC50 of hydroxyl free radical scavenging rate are 0.085 and 0.091 mg/mL, respectively. The total reducing power level increases with the sample dosage. The addition of tussah fibroin peptides have a protective effect on the UV-damaged mouse fibroblasts through increasing the activity of SOD and the content of GSH, and decreasing the content of MDA. In the evaluation of whitening efficacy, the IC50 of No.1 and No.2 samples of tyrosinase inhibition effect rate are 3.65 and 5.84 mg/mL, respectively, which can inhibit melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in mouse melanoma cells. In conclusion, tussah silk fibroin peptides have antioxidant and whitening activity, and the NO.1 sample with larger molecular weight is better than the NO.2 sample with smaller molecular weight. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Studies on the structure-function relationship of polyether-type demulsifiers based on density functional theory Haifeng He, Limei Sun, Fengbin Yang, Lingfeng Liu, Gang Wang, Bin Yu, Da Wu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (5): 499-506.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.001 Abstract （102）   HTML （14）    PDF（pc） （2691KB）（299）       Knowledge map    Save The use of chemical demulsifiers in the treatment process of crude oil dehydration can greatly improve work efficiency and save costs. Among them, polyether demulsifiers are the most widely used, and studies on their structure-function relationship are crucial for the development and application of new demulsifiers. In this work, the demulsification effects of several polyether demulsifiers and reverse demulsifiers were evaluated and compared. Then corresponding model molecules were selected according to the structural characteristics of asphaltene molecules and the categories of polyether demulsifiers and reverse demulsifiers. Their optimal molecular geometries and electrostatic potential distribution diagrams were obtained through the B3LYP/6-31G basis set in density functional theory （DFT）. The interaction energy between a polyether demulsifier model molecule and an asphaltene model molecule, and the interaction energy between a polyether demulsifier model molecule and a water molecule, were both calculated using the functional M062X/6-31G basis set for several kinds of polyether demulsifiers. Combined with the evaluation results of demulsification performance of polyether demulsifiers and reverse demulsifiers, their structure-function relationships were analyzed. It shows that the difference in the demulsification performance of demulsifiers deduced from theoretical chemical calculation is consistent with their demulsification effects experimentally measured. Those polyether demulsifiers with branched structure and higher polymerization degree have better demulsification effects than those with linear structure and lower polymerization degree. In addition, polyether-grafted phenolic resin has better demulsification effect than polyether-grafted phenol-amine resin. Among the inverse demulsifiers investigated, polyol polyether inverse demulsifier has the best demulsification effect. Therefore, it is feasible to study the structure-function relationship of demulsifiers with DFT method, which can provide theoretical basis and reference for the preparation and selection of new demulsifiers in future. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Differential analysis of sensitive skin surface lipids based on lipidomics Wan Zongyuan, Tong Wei, Zhou Chun, Hu Ping, Ouyang Sheng, Zhang Hongyang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (9): 999-1007.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.002 Abstract （178）   HTML （23）    PDF（pc） （1354KB）（298）       Knowledge map    Save This paper established a method for collecting, detecting, and analyzing the human facial skin surface lipids based on lipidomics technology for the study of lipid metabolic disorders in sensitive skin. Firstly, the young female volunteers were divided into the sensitive skin group and non-sensitive skin group by lactic acid stinging test, then the physiological indices were detected and the facial skin surface lipids were analyzed by the ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole-time of flight mass spectrometry （UPLC-Q-TOF-MS）. Subsequently, the differential components were screened by orthogonal partial least-squares discrimination analysis （OPLS-DA） combined with t test and identified via high-resolution MS/MS, and totally 29 differential lipids of triglyceride （TG） were assigned. Compared with the non-sensitive skin group, the levels of these differential TGs are significantly reduced in the sensitive skin group, and the relevant biological significance is explained. This study provides theoretical guidance and technical support for the exploration of the pathogenesis of sensitive skin as well as the research and development of related skin care products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Preparation and properties of a novel surfactant constructed by electrostatic interactions Wu Junhui,Pan Ting,Pei Xiaomei,Cui Zhenggang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 865-872.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.002 Abstract （138）   HTML （15）    PDF（pc） （1784KB）（292）       Knowledge map    Save Taking stearic acid as the raw material, N-（2-（dimethylamino） ethyl） stearamide （C18N2N） was synthesized. A new surfactant was prepared by mixing C18N2N and cinnamic acid （TA） with fixed ratio. This surfactant was formed by non-covalent electrostatic interactions, which avoided complicated synthetic procedures. The surface activity and rheological properties of the surfactant were investigated with a surface tensiometer and a rheometer. The critical micelle concentration （cmc） and the surface tension at cmc （γcmc） of the surfactant were 0.11 mmol/L and 32.4 mN/m, indicative of strong aggregation and adsorption ability. The maximum amount adsorbed （Γmax） and the minimum molecular area occupied （Amin） were 2.77 μmol/m2 and 0.6 nm2. Wormlike micelles were formed at the concentration of 25 mmol/L. When the concentration was over 100 mmol/L, the zero-shear viscosity （η0） abruptly increased and then reached the maximum value for the surfactant of C18N2N /TA containing 150 mmol/L TA. The solution viscosity was as high as 1 761.38 Pa·s. The effects of temperature on the rheological behavior were also considered. With the increase of temperature, the viscosity gradually increased. And when the temperature reached 40 ℃, η0 of the solution with the concentration of 100 mmol/L achieved the maximum value of 1 370.386 Pa·s. When the temperature continued to rise, η0 began to decrease with further increasing temperature. A remarkable viscosity of 305.55 Pa·s was still remained at 50 ℃. The viscoelastic solutions showed good temperature resistance and shear resistance. The surfactant solutions applied as the fracturing fluid were also investigated. This surfactant also showed excellent sand-carrying performance, and the settling rate of the sand was merely 0.26 cm/min. This surfactant could be simply prepared and showed excellent performance, which expanded the preparation and application field of novel surfactants. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Physicochemical properties of ethoxylated sulfosuccinate surfactants and their interfacial properties when mixed with a betaine surfactant Chang Shiteng, Cai Xiaojun, Zheng Yancheng, Liu Xuejin, Yi Xiao, Jiang Zhuyang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (9): 989-998.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.001 Abstract （169）   HTML （18）    PDF（pc） （1336KB）（277）       Knowledge map    Save To enhance oil recovery in low-permeability reservoirs through the injection of low-mineralized water, the foaming behavior, surface tension and interfacial tension of a series of ethoxylated sulfosuccinate surfactants （C12EO6-CnMS, n=10, 12, 14 and 16） were investigated. The interfacial properties of mixtures of C12EO6-CnMS and a betaine surfactant were also studied, and the minimum alkane carbon number （Nmin） of the mixed system was obtained. The experimental results showed that C12EO6-CnMS exhibited low-foaming properties. The critical micelle concentration （cmc） of the surfactants decreased when the carbon chain length of the fatty alcohol （n） attached to ester group was increased. The addition of inorganic salts could reduce the cmc of C12EO6-CnMS, and the more inorganic salt, the more reduction of cmc. The mixed system of C12EO6-C10MS （in which the fatty alcohol carbon chain length was C10） and the betaine surfactant C16ZC displayed synergistic effect, exhibiting smaller cmc. The interfacial tension （IFT） between C12EO6-CnMS and n-alkanes increased as the carbon chain length （n） of the surfactants increased. The scanning of IFT values between C12EO6-CnMS and a series of n-alkanes was operated to determine the minimum alkane carbon number （Nmin） for the surfactant. Notably, the Nmin value increased with the addition of inorganic salts. In the presence of 0.5%-1% NaCl, the Nmin values for C12EO6-C10MS and C12EO6-C12MS are 12-14. As for surfactant mixtures, in the presence of 0.5%-1% NaCl, when the molar ratios of C12EO6-C10MS to C16ZC are 4/1, 3/2 and 2/3, the mixtures exhibited synergistic effect in reducing interfacial tension, achieving ultra-low to low IFT values （10-3-10-2 mN/m） against dodecane, tetradecane and cetane. It makes the system suitable for enhanced oil recovery （EOR） of crude oil with equivalent alkane carbon number （EACN） of 12-16. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Water-in-oil (W/O) Pickering emulsions stabilized by bio-based particles Weijie Jiang,Hang Jiang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (2): 142-153.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.02.002 Abstract （87）   HTML （9）    PDF（pc） （4494KB）（270）       Knowledge map    Save Given its broad range of applications, water-in-oil （W/O） Pickering emulsions have garnered huge interest in recent years. Current research often focuses on non-bio-derived particles, which lack in biocompatibility, biodegradability, and sustainability, failing to meet the growing demand for “green” products. Consequently, using bio-derived particles as emulsifiers to prepare W/O Pickering emulsions has become a hotspot. This article aims to review and update the latest advancements in the field of bio-derived particles-based W/O Pickering emulsions. It first discusses the mechanisms of W/O Pickering emulsions and the influence of particle characteristics on emulsion, such as wettability, concentration, size, and shape. Subsequently, it highlights the progress of emulsifiers from various bio-derived sources, including cellulose, starch, lignin, Zein, polyphenolic crystals, and triterpenoids. These particles are ideal emulsifier for constructing “green” W/O Pickering emulsions. Finally, it further analyzes the applications of bio-derived particles-based W/O Pickering emulsions in the food industry, porous materials, interfacial biocatalysis, and microbial cultivation, emphasizing their importance in sustainable development and environmental protection concepts. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Study on the synthesis of methyl benzoate from benzoic acid catalyzed by dual-core piperazine-based ionic liquids Xiang Li, Hui Yin, Yuyang Kuang, Ning Liu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (5): 514-519.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.003 Abstract （65）   HTML （10）    PDF（pc） （1588KB）（268）       Knowledge map    Save Benzoates are important intermediates for preparing perfume essence and artificial essential oils. For conventional esterification of benzoic acid with methanol, protonic acids such as HCl, H2SO4, have been used, which is harmful to equipment and shows low product yield. Using ionic liquids as solvents or catalysts can make the reaction conditions stable, recyclable, and environment-friendly, and lead to high product yield. In this work, a series of sulfonic-acid-functionalized dual-core piperazine-based ionic liquids, such as 1, 4-bis [N-methyl-N-（3-sulfopropyl）]piperazine bis（p-toluenesulfonate） （[BMSP][PSA]）, 1, 4-bis [N-methyl-N-（3-sulfopropyl）] piperazine dimethanesulfonate （[BMSP][MSA]）, and 1, 4-bis [N-methyl-N-（3-sulfopropyl）] piperazine bis（hydrosulfate） （[BMSP][SA]）, were synthesized by a two-step process. The molecular structure of[BMSP][PSA] was characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and TGA-DTG. It exhibited good thermal stability. The results showed that the three sulfonic-acid-functionalized dual-core piperazine-based ionic liquids had excellent catalytic activity, among which the synthesized [BMSP][PSA] exhibited the best catalytic activity. The conversion of benzoic acid reached 97.6% under the conditions of alcohol-acid ratio of 16∶1, reaction temperature of 70 ℃, reaction time of 3 h, and catalyst dosage of 3 mmol. The conversion for esterification still reached 93.9% after 4 cycles with the catalyst, which showed excellent catalytic activity. Therefore, it was a good candidate of green catalyst for industrial production. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Synthesis and UV absorption capacity of nano-zinc oxides Tan Wenbo,Meng Yanqiang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 908-914.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.007 Abstract （174）   HTML （10）    PDF（pc） （2047KB）（266）       Knowledge map    Save In this paper, nano ZnO with different photoresponsive capacities were successfully synthesized by three different methods: polyacrylamide gel method （PGM）, gamma ray irradiation-assisted polyacrylamide gel method （GRIAPGM） and carbon particle assisted polyacrylamide gel method （CPAPGM）. The ZnO sunscreens synthesized by PGM and GRIAPGM are pure hexagonal ZnO with space group P63mc （186）. However, the ZnO nanoparticles synthesized by CPAPGM contains not only hexagonal ZnO but also a small amount of carbon diffraction peak. The average grain size of ZnO nanoparticles synthesized by PGM, GRIAPGM and CPAPGM are 23.86, 22.73 and 26.47 nm, respectively, and the optical band gap （Eg） values are 3.15, 3.18 and 3.01 eV, respectively. The Eg value of ZnO nanoparticles decreases with the increase of grain size. The ZnO nanoparticles synthesized by CPAPGM have the widest photoresponse, which can respond to visible light due to the presence of carbon-related impurities. However, the particles of ZnO nanoparticles synthesized by GRIAPGM are small and spherical, and the particle size is uniform. It has the highest UV optical absorption coefficient, which can be potentially applied in the field of ultraviolet shielding materials. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Study on the synthesis and performance of a responsive surfactant of tertiary amine type Zhang Xin, Zhang Guanghua, Sun Qi, Li Hui, Tang Mingxuan, Guo Zehua China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (11): 1250-1256.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.002 Abstract （165）   HTML （18）    PDF（pc） （1468KB）（266）       Knowledge map    Save A CO2-responsive surfactant with good surface activity was obtained, which was a long-chain tertiary amine （DMOA） with CO2 responsiveness. It was synthesized by bimolecular nucleophilic substitution reaction using oleic acid and N, N-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine as raw materials and sodium fluoride as catalyst. Its conductivity was measured on a conductivity meter under the passage of CO2 and N2, and the experimental results confirmed that the solution of synthesized DMOA had CO2-responsive properties. The surface tension of DMOA compounded with counterions was measured and its critical micelle concentration was determined. It was found that the combination of DMOA with dicarboxylic counterions such as sodium oxalate could significantly reduce the surface tension of the solution, and the critical micelle concentration of the compounded system was also reduced compared with other systems. The CO2-responsive behavior of the viscosity of the DMOA-sodium oxalate system was studied on a rheometer. The results showed that the compounded system could significantly increase the viscosity of the system, exhibiting CO2-responsiveness and cyclic reversibility. The foaming performance of the compounded system was investigated, and the contact angle between its aqueous solution and paraffin wax was investigated. It was found that the compounded system exhibited lower foaming performance but smaller contact angle on lipophilic surface after the introduction of CO2. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Metal ions: the biological effects on skin and the application in cosmetics Ma Xiaoyu, Yan Xiaojuan, Bao Xijun China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (11): 1315-1324.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.011 Abstract （427）   HTML （26）    PDF（pc） （1337KB）（264）       Knowledge map    Save Skin tissues are rich in metal ions. Due to the complexity of skin structure, these ions exist in both free and bound forms. Metal ions have been involved in many biological processes, such as maintaining barrier homeostasis, stimulating wound healing, and balancing redox state. Given their unique characteristics of multi-targets and multi-pathways, metal ions are widely used in skincare applications, exhibiting the functions of promoting skin repairing, soothing, wrinkle reduction, tightening, whitening, etc. Herein, the biological effects and cosmetic applications of metal ions, including calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, strontium and copper, were systematically reviewed. The concentration and distribution of common metal ions in skin were summarized. The dermatologic effects and mechanisms were also concluded. Calcium, magnesium and potassium ions were relatively abundant in skin, and they could play important roles in stimulating wound healing, maintaining integrity of skin barrier, and strengthening the barrier. For those ions with trace amount, such as zinc, strontium, copper, iron and manganese, they could exert specific skin functions including inflammation inhibition, reduction of skin sensitivity, or modulation of redox system. In addition, the metal ion-related active ingredients in cosmetic raw materials were summarized and their skin functions were reviewed. Finally, the current limits and challenges for the use of metal ions in skin care products were proposed. This review could shed new light on the design of functional formulas and novel active components. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Dual-responsive oil-in-water emulsions co-stabilized by a nonionic-anionic Bola surfactant and silica nanoparticles Pei Liu, Ting Pan, Xiaomei Pei, Binglei Song, Jianzhong Jiang, Zhenggang Cui, Bernard P. Binks China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (1): 1-15.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.001 Abstract （126）   HTML （18）    PDF（pc） （5178KB）（253）       Knowledge map    Save A smart nonionic-anionic Bola surfactant was synthesized which could be switched between nonionic form CH3O （EO） 5-R11-COOH （pHKa=6.6） and Bola form CH3O（EO） 5-R11-COONa （pH>pKa） as triggered by pH. Individually, the nonionic/Bola forms behaved as poor/good emulsifiers, respectively. When the nonionic form was mixed with silica nanoparticles, they could co-stabilize n-decane-in-water Pickering emulsions, where the silica nanoparticles were hydrophobized in situ to be surface-active by adsorption of the surfactant via hydrogen bonding. The Pickering emulsions could be switched between stable and unstable statuses many times as triggered by either pH or temperature. On the other hand, the Bola form could co-stabilize oil-in-dispersion emulsions with silica nanoparticles, which were resistant to heating but were sensitive to the salt formed during pH alternation. However, in contrast to the CH3 （EO） 7-R11-COONa which could completely transfer to aqueous phase after demulsification, its analogue with shorter EO chain, i.e., CH3 （EO） 5-R11-COONa, was still partially oil-soluble either in nonionic form or in bola form, suggesting a significant effect of EO number on the performance of these novel smart surfactants. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Effect of sandalwood extract on olfactory receptor and its clinical efficacy Yueming Jiang, Wenjia Lu, Xin Qu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 828-835.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.010 Abstract （92）   HTML （5）    PDF（pc） （3769KB）（252）       Knowledge map    Save Olfactory receptors （OR） are a class of membrane proteins that can specifically bind to external chemicals （ligands）, thereby inducing intracellular signal transmission. In this work, the impact of aging on OR, the mechanism of sandalwood extract and its clinical efficacies were studied. The relationship between age and OR was studied using reconstructed human epidermis （RHEs） at different ages. The models of senescent RHE and hair follicle dermal papilla cells were established to study the activation of OR2AT4 by sandalwood extract. The role of sandalwood extract in promoting the production of anagen-prolonging factor IGF-1 was studied using hair follicle dermal papilla cell model. The results of in vitro test showed that, the expression of OR2AT4 decreased with age. The level of OR2AT4 in senescent RHE was significantly increased by 46% after treated with 1% sandalwood extract. In addition, 0.002% sandalwood extract could promote the production of IGF-1 in hair follicle dermal papilla cell model, which was significantly increased by 27%. The clinical results demonstrated that, the skin water content, skin tone, skin firmness and wrinkles were all improved after using a cream containing 2% sandalwood extract for 28 days. Hair density was significantly improved after using a scalp serum containing 2% sandalwood for 86 days. In conclusion, sandalwood extract could activate the expression of OR2AT4 and IGF-1 to improve skin aging signs and treat hair loss issue induced by hair follicle aging. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Study on the skincare efficacy and safety evaluation of Rhodiola rosea extract Zhou Yan, Han Ruina China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (10): 1180-1185.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.009 Abstract （190）   HTML （20）    PDF（pc） （1229KB）（241）       Knowledge map    Save This paper aimed to study the skincare efficacy and safety of Rhodiola rosea extract. The antioxidant effect of Rhodiola rosea extract was verified through DPPH free radical scavenging experiment. The results show that within a certain concentration range, Rhodiola rosea extract can effectively eliminate DPPH free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which plays a protective role on the cells damaged by oxidation, and has a certain antioxidant effect. The effect of Rhodiola rosea extract on maintaining skin elasticity was verified through the inhibition rate of elastase, and Rhodiola rosea extract can effectively inhibit elastase activity. The inhibitory effect of Rhodiola rosea extract on melanogenesis was verified through the inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity and the elimination rate of melanin in mouse melanoma cells. Rhodiola rosea extract can significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity, delay melanogenesis, and has potential whitening effects. The safety of Rhodiola rosea extract was verified through a repeated open application test on human skin. The results show that no adverse skin reactions occurred after 48 hours, indicating that within a certain concentration range, Rhodiola rosea extract has no irritating effect on human skin. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Preparation of poly（lactic-co-glycolic acid）microsphere and its behaviors of encapsulation and release of triamcinolone acetonide Yuan Wenbo, Zhang Huatong, Qiao Congde, Wang Ling, Luan Mingming, Yang Xiaodeng China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (11): 1266-1272.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.004 Abstract （106）   HTML （9）    PDF（pc） （2470KB）（230）       Knowledge map    Save Triamcinolone acetonide has the advantages of strong medical efficacy and long duration, however, its oil solubility limits its application. Poly（lactic-co-glycolic acid） （PLGA） has excellent biocompatibility and biodegradability, which can be made into microspheres loaded with triamcinolone acetonide. In this work, the PLGA was prepared using trifluoromethanesulfonic acid as catalyst and glucose as initiator. The molecular structure, molecular weight and molecular weight distribution of PLGA were characterized by NMR and gel chromatography. The results showed that the mass ratio of lactic acid to glycolic acid segments in PLGA was 50:50, and the molecules were terminated with carboxyl groups, and the molecular weight was between 36 000 and 41 000, exhibiting narrow molecular weight distribution （molecular weight distribution index was ca. 1.60）. The microspheres were made by electrostatic spraying method, whose particle size was less than 20 μm （the content of microspheres of diameter being smaller than 20 μm was more than 92%）. The drug loading efficiency for triamcinolone acetonide was more than 44%, and the period of release was up to 120 h. In the initial stage of drug release, the relationship between drug release rate and time was linear. This work could provide basic data for the preparation of PLGA microspheres for drug-loading and expand the application of triamcinolone acetonide in the treatment of allergic dermatitis, neurodermatitis and chronic eczema. Moreover, this work could provide reference for the development of functional skin care products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Progress in metabolic mechanism and research methods of melanin production Yang Xiaoyu, Liu Jinjun, Liu Lei, He Congfen, Bi Yongxian, Li Hao China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (10): 1194-1203.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.011 Abstract （319）   HTML （22）    PDF（pc） （1270KB）（227）       Knowledge map    Save With the development of the times, the market demand of whitening agent is increasing day by day, which has a high development value. Skin color mainly depends on the proportion of true melanin and brown melanin, as well as the number, size, distribution and degree of melanization of melanosomes, so the development of whitening active substances mainly depends on the process of melanin production. Based on this, this paper focuses on the literature reports in the past few years, summarizes and discusses the latest progress in the regulation process of melanin production in five steps, and summarizes the key regulation signal pathways, important markers and their detection methods from the regulation mechanism. It provides a theoretical basis for the development of whitening products from a more comprehensive and specific perspective. Finally, with reference to the action mechanism of different stages of melanogenesis, the different ways and current research progress of the development of whitening active components are summarized. The combined use of whitening active ingredients can play a greater whitening effect to a certain extent, and it has gradually become the development trend of whitening agents. This paper can provide a reference for melanin production through the regulation of different stages of melanin, and provide a more scientific research and development direction for whitening products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Research on the influence factors of surfactant imbibition in tight reservoirs Xu Derong,Lian Wei,Xiong Jinzhao,Kang Wanli China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 857-864.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.001 Abstract （158）   HTML （24）    PDF（pc） （1478KB）（227）       Knowledge map    Save Tight reservoirs always show poor physical properties, resulting in difficulties to be effectively exploited by conventional water flooding. Imbibition with surfactant solutions is the main means for exploitation of tight reservoirs. In this work, the effects of rock wettability, surfactant types, interfacial tension （IFT） of imbibition solutions, oil viscosities, temperature and surfactant slug combinations on imbibition efficiencies were studied with Changqing tight outcrop cores by Amott cells. The results showed that, the higher the wettability of the rock was, the higher the imbibition recovery would be obtained. The imbibition recovery of different types of surfactants was decreased in the sequence: anionic surfactants>nonionic surfactants>cationic surfactants. When the oil-water IFT of imbibition liquid was at the level of 10-1 mN/m, the imbibition efficiency was the highest. Reducing the viscosity of crude oil and increasing temperature were both beneficial to the imbibition recovery. The earlier the surfactant imbibition was carried out, the higher the imbibition efficiency was. In addition, the imbibition efficiency could be further improved by using ultra-low IFT imbibition solution after primary imbibition with non-ultra-low IFT imbibition solutions. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Preparation and properties of natural colored lipstick based on oleogels Wang Run, Gong Yuxin, Zhang Ruoning, Mao Like China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (10): 1147-1155.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.005 Abstract （120）   HTML （13）    PDF（pc） （1825KB）（226）       Knowledge map    Save The effects of mass fraction of emulsifier on the physicochemical properties of beeswax oleogel lipstick were investigated. To prepare the oleogel loaded with natural pigment, corn oil was selected as the solvent, beeswax was used as the gelling agent, glycerin monostearate （GMS） with different mass fractions was added as the emulsifier, and β-carotene was used as the representative functional factor. The relationships between the crystal morphology, rheology, texture and thermodynamic properties of the oleogel and the encapsulation and stability of the pigment were investigated, and the application performance as a lipstick was analyzed. It was found that, with increasing mass fraction of GMS, the oleogel had higher storage modulus （G′）, higher loss modulus （G″） and higher yield stress. The oleogels were dominated by β′ crystal form, and the oleogel containing 4% GMS had the largest crystal plane spacing, the largest crystal grain size and the largest crystallinity. The thixotropic recovery of the oleogel with 4% GMS was 17.36%, and it had the highest encapsulation rate （65.51%） and stability （retention of 82.20% after 12 h of light） for β-carotene. The lipstick with 4% GMS mass fraction had good overall performance. The results of this work had wide applicability and were of guiding significance for the development of natural lipstick products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （II）Bigel system Niu Wenxia, Tang Jiayue, Shang Yazhuo China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (10): 1132-1139.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.003 Abstract （252）   HTML （17）    PDF（pc） （1597KB）（221）       Knowledge map    Save Bigel system is a unique emulsion system, in which a liquid in gel form （organogel or hydrogel） is dispersed in another incompatible gel （hydrogel or organogel） without adding （or a small amount of） surfactant. Bigel system has the dual advantages of both hydrogel and organogel, which can not only deliver hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents simultaneously, but also show better performance than either of the single gel. In addition, the bigel system does not contain （or a small amount of） surfactant, which will not cause the stimulation and dehydration of sensitive skin. The bigel system has a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics, biomedicine, etc. In this paper, the gel and bigel systems are firstly introduced and then the factors of affecting the properties of bigel system including gel agent, the ratio of organogel to hydrogel, oil properties and preparation process, etc. are summarized. Furthermore, the skin safety, stability, moisture retention, sustained-release property and skin sense of bigel system are expatiated. On this basis, the study on the application of bigel system in cosmetics is expounded. Finally, the limitations of the application of bigel system in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, which can provide not only basic information for the development and application of bigel products with excellent performance but also reference for the development direction of bigel system. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Oil-in-water high internal phase emulsions solely stabilized by modified oil ethoxylates Yanan Han, Xiumei Tai, Ying Liu, Tao Geng, Yanyun Bai, Lingxiao Guo China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (12): 1392-1397.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.005 Abstract （67）   HTML （10）    PDF（pc） （2947KB）（218）       Knowledge map    Save A series of oil-in-water high internal phase emulsions with volume fraction 86% of oil phase of sweet almond oil were prepared by using 1.5 wt% modified oil ethoxylates as the single emulsifier. The effects of different EO addition numbers and carbon chain lengths on the particle size and rheological properties of emulsions were studied by optical microscope and rheometer. The results showed that, the emulsifying ability first increased and then decreased with the increase of EO number for high internal phase emulsion stabilized with modified shea butter. The high internal phase emulsions prepared with coconut oil ethoxylate and palm kernel oil ethoxylate both with carbon chain length of C12-14 showed similar viscosity and storage modulus （G'）. However, the viscosity and G' of the high internal phase emulsion prepared with shea butter ethoxylate with carbon chain length of C16-18 were higher. In addition, the differences between different samples were explained from the perspective of EO number distribution and carbon chain distribution. All the high internal phase emulsions thus prepared had excellent stability and could be potentially used in cosmetics, food, drug delivery, encapsulation materials, etc. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Simultaneous determination of 11 components in Danzhi Fangshaishuang SFP50 by HPLC Feng Li,Zou Baisong China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 968-975.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.014 Abstract （95）   HTML （5）    PDF（pc） （1187KB）（213）       Knowledge map    Save A high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC） method was established to simultaneously detect the contents of 11 components in Danzhi Fangshaishuang SFP50, and the feasibility and accuracy of the established method were verified. Baicalin was used as the reference substance and acetonitrile-0.1% phosphoric acid was used as the mobile phase, with the detecting wavelength of 205 nm and 280 nm. The contents of madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, asiatic acid, polydatin, resveratrol, baicalin, wogonoside, liquiritin, glycyrrhizic acid and glabridin in 12 batches of Danzhi Fangshaishuang SFP50 were determined by external standard method and HPLC-quantitative analysis of multi-components by single-marker （QAMS） method, respectively, and the difference between the results from the two methods was compared to verify the serviceability of HPLC-QAMS method. The results show that the linear ranges of the 11 components are good, and the correlation coefficients are greater than 0.999. The average recoveries of 11 components are 96.90%-100.16%, and RSD is less than 2.0%. There is no statistical significance of 11 components in Danzhi Fangshaishuang SFP50 determined by external standard method and HPLC-QAMS method （P>0.05）. The relative correlation factors established with baicalin as the internal reference substance have good reproducibility. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Effects of a Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Lactobacillus paracasei ferment complex on the facial micro-ecology Wang Yue, Li Jun, Gu Shihong, Wang Man, Zou Yue, Wu Jianming China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (11): 1241-1249.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.001 Abstract （244）   HTML （41）    PDF（pc） （1443KB）（209）       Knowledge map    Save The objective of this study was to investigate the effects of a Himalaya-derived Saccharomyces and Lactobacillus ferment complex （SLFC） on the facial micro-ecology. Thirty women （30-45 years old, average 38 years old） with signs of skin aging used SLFC. Compared with the two groups of samples before use （D0） and after 28 days of use （D28）, the Alpha diversity of facial bacterial species decreased significantly and the Beta diversity had obvious differentiation in different regions. The relative abundance of Staphylococcus increased significantly. The relative abundance of Propionibacterium, Corynebacterium, Acinetobacter, and other skin resident bacteria remained stable. The relative abundance of the opportunistic pathogenic bacteria such as Streptococcus,Erythrococcus, Aquatic bacteria and flavobacterium decreased. At the species level, the abundance of Staphylococcus epidermidis increased significantly, the abundance of Cutibacterium acnes did not change significantly, and Staphylococcus aureus was not detected. According to the feedback of consumers after treatment with SLFC for 28 days, skin smoothness, gloss and moisture were improved and the skin redness was relieved. Therefore, SLFC can effectively regulate and stabilize the microecological balance of facial flora to improve and strengthen the skin barrier. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （III）Pickering emulsion Chen Ningru, Zhang Ruoqi, Han Xu, Shang Yazhuo China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (11): 1257-1265.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.003 Abstract （234）   HTML （15）    PDF（pc） （1573KB）（207）       Knowledge map    Save Pickering emulsion is a new type of emulsion system developed in the past twenty years. The oil and water interface in the system is generally a solid particle film formed by micron-scale or nanoscale solid particles. These solid particles nearly irreversible adsorption to the oil and water interface rely on their own surface wettability and thus stabilize the droplets in the system. The solid particles have much advantages compared with the traditional emulsifiers, including cheaper and easier to obtain, higher emulsifying capacity, green and friendly to the environment, easier to modify as well as the higher stability of the prepared emulsions, which make Pickering emulsion show many advantages in the fields of oil extraction, new material synthesis, food, medicine as well as cosmetics. In this paper, the Pickering emulsion, the stability mechanism of the Pickering emulsion and the factors of affecting the stability of the system are introduced firstly. Then, the solid particles can be used to stabilize Pickering emulsion in cosmetics are listed, and the necessary conditions that the solid particles should have are clarified. On this basis, the application of Pickering emulsion in the field of cosmetics is stated in details, and the corresponding advantages of Pickering emulsion in the application of cosmetics are summarized. Furthermore, the unique Pickering emulsions developed recently, including multiple Pickering emulsion and the Pickering-Janus emulsion are introduced. Finally, the personal views on the future development in the direction of Pickering emulsifier, preparation and the application of Pickering emulsion are put forward, which may provide some useful reference for the effective development and reasonable application of Pickering emulsion. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Determination of four polyphenols and study on antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of extracts from callus of Eryngium maritimum L. Xue Xiao, Huirong Zhang, Shuowen Li, Sunhua Li, Miaomiao Guo, Li Li China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (1): 57-64.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.008 Abstract （87）   HTML （9）    PDF（pc） （1499KB）（207）       Knowledge map    Save The preparation of extracts from callus of Eryngium maritimum was conducted by hot water reflux method. A method for simultaneous determination of rosmarinic acid, cryptochlorogenic acid, hyperoside, quercetin-3-O-（6''-O-acetyl）-β-D-glucopyranoside in the callus extract of Eryngium maritimum was established based on high performance liquid chromatography. The scavenging ability of the extracts on DPPH and ABTS free radicals were determined. The screening samples were also assayed by the CCK-8 method to determine the concentration of drug administration and a model of HaCaT cell inflammation induced by Cutibacterium acnes was established to evaluate its anti-inflammatory efficacy. The results show that the extracts contain the highest amount of cryptochlorogenic acid at 5.23 mg/g, and the contents of rosmarinic acid, quercetin-3-O-（6''-O-acetyl）-β-D-glucopyranoside and hyperin were 1.30, 0.50 and 0.08 mg/g, respectively. The extracts display antioxidant and anti-inflammatory abilities. The IC50 values of the extracts on DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging ability are 0.323 9 and 0.296 5 mg/mL, respectively, and also have significant inhibitory effects on the secretion of IL-1β and IL-8 in HaCaT cells induced by Cutibacterium acnes （P<0.05）. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Effect of water-soluble polymer on the properties of liquid crystal emulsions Kong Xiangling, Lan Yunping, Liu Xiaochun, Wang Shiqiong, Zheng Yifeng, Chen Laicheng, He Qiuxing China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (10): 1115-1124.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.001 Abstract （181）   HTML （40）    PDF（pc） （3183KB）（203）       Knowledge map    Save The effect of four water-soluble polymers including sodium alginate, xanthan gum, carbopol 940, and sodium polyacrylate in the liquid crystal emulsions have been described in this work, through the experiments including stability tests, thermal gravimetric analysis, and rheology. The results show that the addition of carbopol 940 has no effect on the liquid crystal structure and particle size, but performs the best in centrifugation stability. In addition, xanthan gum helps the emulsion to preserve at room temperature, with the largest proportion of bound water and liquid crystal content. The rheological tests show that the four liquid crystal emulsions are non-Newtonian liquids. Incorporation of carbopol 940 increases the viscosity, thixotropy loop area and viscoelasticity of the emulsion, as well as increases the ability of the liquid crystal structure to withstand external forces and not easy to deformate. In conclusion, this paper provides experimental basis for the application of water-soluble polymers in the formulation of liquid crystal emulsions. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Performance and application of high-temperature resistant carboxymethyl guar gum fracturing fluid Zhong Ju, Sarsenbekuly Bauyrzhan, Yin Xia, Kang Wanli China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (10): 1125-1131.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.002 Abstract （121）   HTML （4）    PDF（pc） （1557KB）（199）       Knowledge map    Save The “Shan-2” in the western exploration area of Jidong Oilfield is mainly a tight gas reservoir with high temperature and poor porosity and permeability, in which the gas can only be produced by fracturing. Conventional guar gum fracturing fluid has poor high-temperature resistance and it is easy to cause secondary damage to the formation. To solve this problem, based on chelation mechanism, a kind of high-temperature resistant carboxymethyl guar gum fracturing fluid was developed. Its rapid thickening, viscoelasticity, high-temperature resistance, shear resistance and formation damage performance were studied in detail. The results showed that, the viscosity of this fracturing fluid could reach 51 mPa·s within 4 minutes. Its temperature resistance could reach 130-180 ℃. The viscosity of the gel breaking fluid was less than 1.5 mPa·s. Therefore, this fracturing fluid could meet the requirements for the target stratum. Finally, for some low-producing and low-efficiency wells in the field, the clean fracturing technology using the carboxymethyl guar gum developed had achieved clean fracturing with low damage. Old cracks were closed and new cracks were opened. The stimulated reservoir volume was increased. The output of low-producing wells had been increased by 3-5 times. This work might provide technical support for continuous and stable production in the western exploration area. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Research progress on the properties of foam systems containing wormlike micelles Niu Qiqi,Lv Qichao,Dong Zhaoxia,Zhang Fengfan,Wang Hongbo China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 915-924.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.008 Abstract （123）   HTML （12）    PDF（pc） （2746KB）（199）       Knowledge map    Save The solution structure of surfactants can directly affect their performance such as foaming, emulsification, and wetting. In recent years, wormlike micelles have been widely used in oilfield development, personal care products, nano materials and other fields due to their excellent rheological properties. The introduction of wormlike micelles can better control the foam performance. In this review, the types and basic properties of surfactants were described. The construction methods of wormlike micelles were discussed, and the stabilization mechanism for foams stabilized with wormlike micelles was summarized. Finally, the formation of enhanced wormlike micelles was focused on, such as the systems of polymer-wormlike micelles and nanoparticle-wormlike micelles. Some suggestions were put forward for the development of the foams that were synergistically stabilized with nanoparticles and wormlike micelles. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Ferulic acid nanoethosomes: preparation, characterization, and performance of skin penetration in vitro Deng Mengjie, Yi Guobin, Lv Ran, Liu Yafeng, Ye Dawei, Chen Jiazhi China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (11): 1285-1292.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.007 Abstract （129）   HTML （17）    PDF（pc） （2426KB）（191）       Knowledge map    Save The transdermal delivery and antioxidant of ferulic acid nanoethosomes prepared by microfluidization were studied. Firstly, the effects of edge-activators （Tween-80, and sucrose palmitate） and lecithin on the encapsulation efficiency of ferulic acid nanoethosomes were investigated by the response surface method. When lecithin, sucrose palmitate and Tween-80 are optimized at the ratio of 0.68%:0.51%:0.25% （w/%）, the ferulic acid nanoethosomes demonstrate better characteristics of small particle size of （104.5±0.7） nm, uniform particle size distribution with PDI of 0.05±0.01, high encapsulation efficiency of 88.8%±2.6%, and high storage stability for 60 days at 25 ℃. Secondly, the antioxidant ability and the skin penetration property of ferulic acid and its nanoethosomes were evaluated by DPPH free radical scavenging tests and in vitro transdermal assays using Franz diffusion cells, respectively. The IC50 values of ferulic acid and its nanoethosomes are 8.7 and 11.7 μg/mL, respectively, indicating that the ferulic acid nanoethosomes exhibite enhanced antioxidant activity. It is found that the nanoethosomes have better skin permeability and their skin adsorption amount and accumulated permeation amount of the nanoethosomes are （18.2±3.5） μg/cm2 and （25.3±3.2） μg/cm2, which are 1.2 times and 1.4 times higher than that of the ferulic acid propylene glycol solution, respectively. The prepared ferulic acid nanoethosomes have the advantages of uniform particle size, high encapsulation efficiency and storage stability, enhanced antioxidant ability and skin permeability, and can be extended to the preparation of other phenolic acid nanoethosomes and applied as transdermal carriers for antioxidant, anti-aging, and whitening cosmetics. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

A study on the classification approach and characteristics of oily skin in young Chinese females Xiaoxiao Yang, Huan Yan, Yating Yin, Fan Yi China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (12): 1412-1420.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.008 Abstract （141）   HTML （10）    PDF（pc） （2184KB）（183）       Knowledge map    Save Oily skincare is one of the common problems confronting young Chinese females. Currently, skin type characterization is largely based on self-reports and qualitative assessments by dermatologists. Quantitative classification approach for oily skin totally based on the non-invasive skin measurement devices has not been reported in the literatures. In this study, based on box-plot data and machine learning clustering algorithms for 2000 Chinese female subjects （mean aged 25.90±2.61）, non-invasive, objective, and quantitative classification approach for oily skin were initially established and compared with dermatologists’ empirical results for mutual corroboration. On this basis, this study quantitatively collected data on skin barrier, chromaticity, elasticity, acne and other indicators through a multifunctional probe tester and a facial skin imaging system, analyzed the accompanying characteristics of oily skin and susceptible skin problems, clarified the characteristics of oily skin in young Chinese females, and evaluated the risk level of acne and sensitivity of oily skin, with a view to providing scientific care and guidance for Chinese young females with oily skin groups. The results show that the box-plot classification method based on facial hydro-oil distribution is superior to the other two types of methods. The accompanying characteristics of oily skin are poor barrier, dull complexion, less elasticity, more acne and pores. In addition, the risk of acne-prone skin is significantly higher in oily skin based on odds ratio. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Safety evaluation progress of three kinds of arbutin and its current status in cosmetics regulations Jiaojiao Wu, Wei Zhang, Yanchao Wang, Xinrong Pei China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 853-858.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.013 Abstract （75）   HTML （2）    PDF（pc） （1132KB）（177）       Knowledge map    Save α-arbutin, β-arbutin and deoxyarbutin have good whitening effect, but they are easy to produce hydroquinone under certain conditions, which has the risk of exogenous ochronosis, achromodermia, sensitization, and carcinogenesis. So their safety has attracted much attention at home and abroad. The author summarizes the safety evaluation reports of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and deoxyarbutin by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety （SCCS） of the European Union in recent years, as well as the supervision situation of cosmetics regulations in different countries and regions, in order to understand the safety evaluation status of arbutin and provide references for the use and supervision of arbutin in cosmetics in China. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Study on the effect of lactic acid in promoting hair growth in seborrheic alopecia mice Luo Xiaojian, Hong Shixi, Luo Jing, Yang Si, Wang Ziyan, Xiong Yaokun China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (9): 1029-1034.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.005 Abstract （142）   HTML （17）    PDF（pc） （2738KB）（171）       Knowledge map    Save The seborrheic alopecia model was established by removing the back hair of C57BL/6 mice and smearing with testosterone. The effects of lactic acid on hair growth, hair follicle growth cycle and growth factors in seborrheic alopecia mice were studied based on this model. Sixty C57BL/6 mice were randomly divided into normal group, model group, minoxidil tincture positive group, and groups of high-, medium- and low-dose lactic acid, which were smeared with corresponding drugs on the depilation area. After 24 days of continual administration, the time of skin color change, the hair growth in depilation area, the histological characteristics of hair follicles and the change of hair follicle number were recorded. The concentration of KGF, VEGF, and TGF-β1 in mouse skin was measured by corresponding Elisa kits. The results showed that, compared with the model group and normal group, lactic acid could significantly promote hair elongation in seborrheic alopecia mice, and increase the weight of mouse hair and the number of skin hair follicles in the drug-administration experimental area. Meanwhile, the concentrations of KGF and VEGF in mouse skin were up-regulated, and the concentration of TGF-β1 in mouse skin was reduced, both of which the differences were statistically significant （P<0.05）. The medium dose （10 g/L） of lactic acid solution had the best effect, which could accelerate the hair growth of mice, promote the transformation process of hair follicles in the growth period, and inhibit the symptoms of seborrheic alopecia. The curative effect of medium dose （10 g/L） of lactic acid solution was equivalent to that of minoxidil tincture （P>0.05）. It could be applied in daily care products to prevent alopecia and provide more choice for patients with seborrheic alopecia. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Study on preparation and performance of multi-headgroup quaternary ammonium surfactant Cui Congcong,Zhang Hongli,Xuan Guangshan China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 899-907.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.006 Abstract （122）   HTML （10）    PDF（pc） （1734KB）（171）       Knowledge map    Save Bi-headgroup quaternary ammonium surfactant （BTAE-n） and tetra-headgroup quaternary ammonium surfactant （PTAE-n） were synthesized from alkyl halides with different carbon chain length, benzyl chloride and α, α’-dichloro-p-xylene. The structure of products was characterized by HPLC, FT-IR, 1H NMR and LC-MS, and the Krafft temperature, emulsifying properties, wetting properties and foam properties of the surfactants were evaluated. The results show that the Krafft temperatures of BTAE-n and PTAE-n are both lower than 0 ℃, indicative of good water solubility and low-temperature solubility. Compared with benzalkonium chloride, BTAE-n and PTAE-n have better foam stability. Their foaming performance decreases with the increase of carbon number of alkyl chain, while the emulsification performance increases. The results of contact angle measurement show that the wetting ability of BTAE-n is better than that of PTAE-n. According to the evaluation results of bacteriostatic and bactericidal properties, BTAE-n and PTAE-n show effective bacteriostatic and bactericidal activities against gram-positive bacteria （Staphylococcus aureus）, gram-negative bacteria （Escherichia coli） and fungi （Candida albicans）, and the effectiveness of tetra-headgroup quaternary ammonium salts is better than that of bi-headgroup quaternary ammonium salts with the same carbon chain. For the surfactants of the same type, the bacteriostatic and bactericidal effects are better with the increase of carbon chain length. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Research on the management system of sunscreen products in Japan and the inspiration for China He Huan,Sun Lei,Wen Xuehua,Jiang Yaxue,Liu Min,Feng Keran China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (8): 935-944.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.010 Abstract （133）   HTML （10）    PDF（pc） （1014KB）（163）       Knowledge map    Save The cosmetics products in China are classified and managed according to the category of cosmetics and quasi-drugs in Japan, of which sunscreen products are a very representative category. By analyzing the laws, regulations and literature of cosmetics and quasi-drugs in Japan, the technical requirements and regulatory requirements of product classification, testing methods, raw material management, product filing and approval system and labeling management were studied and summarized. Combined with the actual situation of cosmetic regulation in China, the regulatory requirements and management status of the two countries are compared and analyzed. In the current situation where the cosmetics industry is booming and the regulatory regulations are gradually improving, this study provides a reference for the regulation of cosmetics in China in order to promote the high-quality development of the cosmetics industry. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics (IV) Multiple emulsion Na Zhao, Liangyu Lu, Yazhuo Shang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (12): 1369-1376.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.002 Abstract （162）   HTML （15）    PDF（pc） （1774KB）（161）       Knowledge map    Save Multiple emulsion is a complex system in which an emulsion （oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion） is dispersed in another continuous phase （oil phase or water phase）. The coexistence of oil-in-water emulsion （O/W） and water-in-oil emulsion （W/O） endows multiple emulsion not only the advantages of both, but also the unique structure of “three-phase and two-membrane”. Multiple emulsions have shown a broad application prospect in the fields of cosmetics, medicine, food, materials, etc.. In this review, multiple emulsions and their preparation methods were introduced, and the factors affecting the stability of multiple emulsions were summarized. The advantages of application of multiple emulsions in the field of cosmetics were introduced, including the embedding and multiple protective effects, the sustained-release property, and the penetration-enhancing effect. On this basis, the research status of multiple emulsions in cosmetic field was reviewed, and the special multiple emulsions were also introduced. Finally, the personal views on the problems of multiple emulsions in practical application were put forward, which might provide some necessary reference for the application of multiple emulsions and provide useful information both for the effective application of active ingredients and the development of cosmetic products with excellent performance. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Cell model research status and application prospects for the evaluation of anti-glycation efficacy Chencan Cao, Qidan Tan, Lei Liu, Xiaoyu Yang, Haifeng Chen China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (12): 1451-1458.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.013 Abstract （144）   HTML （6）    PDF（pc） （1940KB）（160）       Knowledge map    Save This paper reviews the mechanism of glycation reaction, the classification of advanced glycation end products （AGEs）, the effects of glycation on skin, the evaluation methods of anti-glycation efficacy and the current research status of the cell models used for the evaluation of anti-glycation efficacy at home and abroad. According to the different cell functions, the application of five types of keratinocytes （HaCaT）, fibroblasts, immune cells （RAW264.7/THP-1）, melanocytes and vascular endothelial cells （HUVECs） in the evaluation cell model of anti-glycation efficacy was summarized. They are aimed at the skin barrier damage, collagen loss, pigmentation, oxidative stress and inflammation caused by glycation. According to the different modeling stimulation modes, the application of three stimulation modes of high glucose, methylglyoxal/glyoxal （MGO/GO） and AGEs in the cell model of glycation injury was summarized, aiming at the early stage, middle and late stage of the mechanism of glycation reaction and the action stage of AGEs. This review looks forward to the application prospect of cell models for anti-glycation efficacy evaluation, in order to provide an experimental basis for the establishment of standard methods for anti-glycation efficacy evaluation cell models and provide a theoretical basis for the screening of anti-glycation efficacy raw materials. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Preparation of SrWO4 photocatalyst and its photocatalytic degradation of chlortetracycline hydrochloride Huiting Liu, Longda Du, Litang Qin China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (12): 1377-1384.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.003 Abstract （69）   HTML （3）    PDF（pc） （2495KB）（156）       Knowledge map    Save The strontium tungstate （SrWO4） photocatalyst with high oxygen defect and [WO4] tetrahedral lattice distortion was synthesized by oxalic acid complexation method. The SrWO4 photocatalyst was tetragonal phase, and the particles were approximately spherical and did not contain any impurities. There was a slight adhesion and agglomeration among the particles, and the average particle size was approximately 70 nm. The SrWO4 photocatalyst exhibited two distinct blue emission peaks at 400 and 440 nm under the excitation peak of 280 nm. Chlortetracycline hydrochloride was used as the target antibiotic to be degraded. The effects of antibiotic concentration, catalyst content and pH value on the photocatalytic activity of SrWO4 photocatalyst were studied. The experimental results showed that, the optimum antibiotic concentration, catalyst content and pH value for SrWO4 photocatalyst to degrade chlortetracycline hydrochloride were 100 mg/L, 1 g/L and 5.6, respectively. The mechanism analysis showed that the oxygen defect and the lattice distortion of [WO4] tetrahedron in SrWO4 photocatalyst led to high photoluminescence and photocatalytic activity at the same time. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Analysis on registration of imported sunscreen cosmetics in China in 2017—2021 Ta Na, Yu Zhenxi, Gao Jiamin, Zhang Fenglan, Wang Gangli China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2023, 53 (10): 1204-1210.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.012 Abstract （122）   HTML （9）    PDF（pc） （1144KB）（156）       Knowledge map    Save By inquiring the information on the approval documents for cosmetics published on the website of CFDA, the number of approval documents, country of origin, ultraviolet defense ability, dosage form, and sunscreen agents for the import of sunscreen cosmetics in China from 2017 to 2021 were summarized and analyzed. The results showed that 3 057 approval documents for imported sunscreen cosmetics were issued in China during the past five years from 2017 to 2021, and South Korea was the largest country of origin of imported sunscreen cosmetics; in terms of ultraviolet defense ability, SPF value did not significantly increase, and the proportion of products with high PFA values was significantly increased; the main dosage form of imported sunscreen cosmetics was cream, while spray had a gradually increasing trend; the sunscreen agent with the highest frequency of use in the product formulas was ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate with a relatively high safety. Based on the analysis results above, further analysis was made combined with literature reports, regulatory supervision and social hotspots, which was helpful to fully understand the situation of imported sunscreen cosmetics in China and provide useful references for the market supervision of cosmetics in China and the research and development of cosmetics for domestic enterprises. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics