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Efficacy assessment for skin microecology/microbiome-modulating cosmetics Yumei Zheng, Rong Hu, Wenhai Wu, Liya Song, Wen Wang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1382-1390.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.013 Abstract （955）   HTML （5）    PDF（pc） （1139KB）（949）       Knowledge map    Save The in vitro and in vivo evaluation methods of microecological skin care products were summarized. Cosmetics can regulate skin microecological balance by directly changing the number, growth metabolism, community structure, and population effect of skin microorganisms, or by regulating skin immune response and improving skin physiological function. The number, growth and metabolism level, population effect of skin microorganisms and skin immune response status are often evaluated by in vitro method. Skin microbial diversity, community structure, and skin physiological state are often tested by human methods, combined with high-throughput sequencing technologies such as 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing, ITS amplicon sequencing, and shotgun metagenomic sequencing. Different evaluation methods have different dimensions and advantages. The in vitro method is more targeted and the test conditions are easy to control, but the model is too simple and lack of activity. In contrast, clinical trials are more holistic and in line with real use scenarios, but it is difficult to qualitative analyze the complex causal relationship among individuals, product use and microbiome changes. In the process of efficacy evaluation, the combination of in vitro and in vivo can complement the limitations of different evaluation methods to a certain extent, and can provide a more complete evidence chain for the efficacy evaluation of products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Water-in-oil (W/O) Pickering emulsions stabilized by bio-based particles Weijie Jiang,Hang Jiang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (2): 142-153.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.02.002 Abstract （87）   HTML （9）    PDF（pc） （4494KB）（270）       Knowledge map    Save Given its broad range of applications, water-in-oil （W/O） Pickering emulsions have garnered huge interest in recent years. Current research often focuses on non-bio-derived particles, which lack in biocompatibility, biodegradability, and sustainability, failing to meet the growing demand for “green” products. Consequently, using bio-derived particles as emulsifiers to prepare W/O Pickering emulsions has become a hotspot. This article aims to review and update the latest advancements in the field of bio-derived particles-based W/O Pickering emulsions. It first discusses the mechanisms of W/O Pickering emulsions and the influence of particle characteristics on emulsion, such as wettability, concentration, size, and shape. Subsequently, it highlights the progress of emulsifiers from various bio-derived sources, including cellulose, starch, lignin, Zein, polyphenolic crystals, and triterpenoids. These particles are ideal emulsifier for constructing “green” W/O Pickering emulsions. Finally, it further analyzes the applications of bio-derived particles-based W/O Pickering emulsions in the food industry, porous materials, interfacial biocatalysis, and microbial cultivation, emphasizing their importance in sustainable development and environmental protection concepts. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Current status of sea cucumber aquaculture and the research progress on skincare benefits in China Chujie Zhao,Liqing Wu,Qiuxing He,Zheng Yang,Lvyangguang Ye,Lihong Yuan China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (2): 225-234.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.02.012 Abstract （58）   HTML （5）    PDF（pc） （1228KB）（130）       Knowledge map    Save The sea cucumber is a highly esteemed source of nourishment, recognized as one of the “Eight Treasures of the Sea.” The bioactive compounds derived from sea cucumbers exhibit diverse physiological activities, including anti-tumor, antioxidant, anti-coagulation, anti-viral, anti-fatigue, immune enhancement, cognitive improvement, and metabolic regulation. Notably, within the skincare sector, these compounds demonstrate significant anti-aging, moisturizing, whitening, wrinkle reduction, repair and inhibition of melanin production properties. This article assesses the current state of sea cucumber aquaculture in China and the utilization of its bioactive ingredients in skincare formulations. The objective is to furnish additional raw materials and semi-finished products for China’s skincare and pharmaceutical industries, to advance the integration of sea cucumber bioactive components within these sectors, and to invigorate the rapid development of the tropical sea cucumber breeding industry. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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The anti-aging potential of peptides from fermented Nannochloropsis sp. Ting Yang,Huawen Li,Xun Xu,Honghui Guo,Tangbin Zou,Enqin Xia China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 921-929.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.006 Abstract （83）   HTML （8）    PDF（pc） （1364KB）（119）       Knowledge map    Save The extraction and composition analysis of peptides （FNPs） from fermentation Nannochloropsis sp., as well as their anti-aging effects on Drosophila melanogaster in vivo were investigated. Compared with the non-fermentation group, the number of peptide in FNPs increases by about 100, and the oxidation sites in the peptides also increase. The maximum absorption intensity of FNPs is observed at 258 nm with a dose-dependent relationship. Compared with the control group, 5 μg/mL FNPs extends the mean life span of the the natural aging Drosophila melanogaster for 13 days. Additionally, for 70-90 days old, the deterioration of oxidative stress indicators such as MDA, SOD, and CAT caused by age are significantly restored and increased to the level of positive group by FNPs at 0.5 and 5 μg/mL. These results indicate that FNPs have potential as a promising nutritional component for alleviating human health problems induced by aging. It can also be used as a new antioxidant ingredient for functional food development or cosmeceutical applications from a resource rich and easily obtainable raw material Nannochloropsis sp.. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Skin care efficacy study of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level Jian Wang, Yuhui Fan, Danfeng Li, Ningwen Cheng, Ling Li, Yufeng Yu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1030-1038.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.003 Abstract （2507）   HTML （25）    PDF（pc） （1489KB）（90）       Knowledge map    Save Studying the skin care efficacy of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level. The stability of the recombinant humanized collagen was first analyzed by treating at different temperatures, then its skincare efficacy based on in vitro level was evaluated by detecting the inhibition rate of elastase, the inhibition rate of collagenase, the protein content of type I collagen in human fibroblasts, the inhibition of reactive oxygen species （ROS） with human keratinocytes, and the effects of the recombinant humanized collagen on the expression of hyaluronic acid （HA）, filaggrin （FLG） and transglutaminase 1 （TGM1） in keratinocytes. The results showed that recombinant humanized collagen was able to maintain stability at temperatures below 70 ℃. With regard to its skincare efficacy, recombinant humanized collagen could inhibit elastase and collagenase activities and promote the increase of type I collagen content in human fibroblasts. It also showed good inhibition of ROS in keratinocytes in vitro and could increase the expression of HA, FLG, and TGM1 in keratinocytes. In short, the recombinant humanized collagen exhibited a favourable skin care effect in vitro level. This study proved that it has potential firming, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and repairing efficacy, and is a valuable cosmetic raw material. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the efficacy and mechanism of an amino acid combination in hair care Jiayi Fan, Wenshen Yu, Marina Bian, Zoe Yue, Jing Wang, Kuan Chang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1059-1068.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.006 Abstract （2480）   HTML （12）    PDF（pc） （1856KB）（90）       Knowledge map    Save The effect of a mixture of amino acids in hair care was studied. The repair effect of this raw material on hair was evaluated by stretching test and combing test. The experimental results showed that, the amino acid combination could increase the tension in the yield zone by 29.4% and reduce the combing work of hair by 22.4% （dry combing） and 18.1% （wet combing）. According to the results of spectral characterization, fluorescent penetration test and stress relaxation test, it could be concluded that the amino acid combination could repair the broken bonds by permeating into the hair and thus achieve the effect of toughening, and make the hair lipid transfer to the hair surface, which lead to a repairing effect on the hair surface and improved the hair combability. In particular, it had significant repair effect on the damaged hair caused by perm and hair coloring. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of oil type on the stability and rheological properties of W/O Pickering emulsions Juyuan Zhang,Xiumei Tai,Huimin Liu,Xiaoyuan Ma,Xu Gao,Yi Luo China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 879-886.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.001 Abstract （736）   HTML （35）    PDF（pc） （2395KB）（85）       Knowledge map    Save Using dimethylsilylated silica as emulsifier, W/O Pickering emulsions were prepared by homogeneous emulsification. The kinds of oils, rheological modifiers and their effects on the stability and rheological properties of the W/O Pickering emulsions were studied. The results showed that, compared with the nonpolar oil, the W/O Pickering emulsion prepared with polar oil had smaller droplets and better stability, e.g., the emulsion prepared with jojoba oil had narrow particle size distribution, uniform shape and good stability. With the addition of rheological modifier, the particle size of the emulsion decreased to a certain extent, and the stability at room temperature and at low temperature was both slightly increased. For different oils, the rheological modifier which was similar to the oil in molecular structure had better effects in the reduction of particle size and the improvement of stability. All these W/O Pickering emulsions prepared with different oils were non-Newtonian fluids. With the increase of shear rate, the viscosity of the emulsions decreased, and the elastic modulus （G'） of all emulsions was higher than viscous modulus （G"）. All the emulsions were gel emulsions, and the linear viscoelastic region was 0.001%-0.100%. With the addition of rheological modifier, the viscosity of the emulsion increased and the shear thinning phenomenon was basically unchanged, but the linear viscoelastic region was enlarged, which might be related to the change of emulsion particle size and oil-water interfacial energy. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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A preliminary study on the mechanism of oily sensitive skin and intervention care Xinjue Kuang,Yuanyuan Fu,Xiancai Chen,Yong Chen,Youting Liu,Fan Yi China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 988-996.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.014 Abstract （562）   HTML （13）    PDF（pc） （1734KB）（83）       Knowledge map    Save With the prevalence of modern unhealthy lifestyle habits and the worsening of environmental pollution, the occurrence of oily sensitive skin has been increasing. However, the exact cause is still not completely understood. In this paper, we review the definition and characteristics of oily sensitive skin. We also provide an overview of its possible mechanisms, which include excessive sebaceous gland secretion, reduced epidermal barrier function, skin microecological imbalance, inflammatory response, and neurological and vascular hyperreactivity. Furthermore, we analyze the intrinsic connection between these different mechanisms in depth. In response to these mechanisms, this article discusses a series of recommendations for caring for oily sensitive skin. It highlights the differences in skincare compared to dry sensitive skin, emphasizes the importance of choosing effective skincare products, and suggests making adjustments to lifestyle habits. These recommendations aim to improve the quality of life for patients and provide valuable references for practitioners in the field. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Skin microecology and microecological skincare products Huabing Zhao, Yingtian Li, Xihan Wang, Zhengmei Huang, Fuping Lu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (3): 390-398.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.03.015 Abstract （90）   HTML （15）    PDF（pc） （1358KB）（80）       Knowledge map    Save The skin microecosystem is comprised of the components including: the microbiome, encompassing bacteria, fungi, archaea, viruses, protozoa, and other microorganisms; host cells, including epithelial cells, immune cells, and various glands; chemical constituents, such as sebum, sweat, skin care products, environmental molecules, and their metabolic products; and the physical microenvironment, which includes factors such as oxygen, ultraviolet light, and temperature. The microbiome serves as the central component of the skin microecosystem, playing a crucial role in the maintenance of skin homeostasis through its mediation of the interactions among the physical barrier, chemical barrier, and immune barrier. Understanding the skin microecosystem, and how to maintain its delicate balance is an essential way to gain insight into the mechanisms responsible for healthy skin. The daily use of skin care products has become a modern living habit, and its impacts on skin microecosystem cannot be ignored. Therefore, this article aims to summarize the various factors that may affect the skin microecosystem in skin care products, and systematically analyze the common effects, harmful effects, beneficial effects and uncertainty effects. Based on this premise, the following development directions are proposed: further elucidation of the skin microecology mechanism with multi-omics technology, the creation of in vitro skin microecology models, the establishment of evaluation systems and regulations for assessing the effects of skincare products on skin microecology, and the exploration of beneficial skin bacteria and substitutes for potentially harmful ingredients. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the efficacy of yeast/zinc fermentation products in scalp care Xiaopeng You, Ning Peng, Zhixian Chen China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1099-1105.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.011 Abstract （71）   HTML （5）    PDF（pc） （2392KB）（78）       Knowledge map    Save The efficacy of yeast/zinc fermentation products in scalp care were studied from the aspects of safety, oil control and dandruff removal, and hair follicle maintenance. The safety of yeast/zinc fermentation products was tested through human patch testing. In vitro SZ95 cell model was used to study the oil-control efficacy of yeast/zinc fermentation products. The method of qRT-PCR was used to verify the expression of oil-secretion-related genes SREBP-1c, PPARG, and PI3K. Spectrophotometry was used to test the effect of yeast/zinc fermentation products on 5α-reductase. The oil-control effect of yeast/zinc fermentation products on scalp and the maintenance effect on hair follicles were studied through human efficacy testing and in vitro hair follicle model, respectively. The results showed that the yeast/zinc fermentation products at a content of 5% was safe and harmless to human health; the yeast/zinc fermentation products with a content of 0.8%-1.5% could significantly inhibit the activity of 5α-reductase. The yeast/zinc fermentation products at a content of 0.5%-2.0% could significantly inhibit the secretion of oil in SZ95 cells in vitro, and significantly downregulate the expression of oil-secretion-related genes SREBP-1c and PPARG. The yeast/zinc fermentation products at content of 1.0% and 2.0% could significantly inhibit the expression of PI3K. The yeast/zinc fermentation products at a content of 5% could significantly reduce scalp oil secretion, improve hair follicle cycle, and promote hair shaft growth. Therefore, the yeast/zinc fermentation products had certain scalp care effects and had positive effects in controlling oil, improving hair follicle health, and promoting hair shaft growth. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the foam properties of common surfactants Yanfu Zhou, Xuguang Wang, Feifei Wang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (1): 26-33.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.01.003 Abstract （138）   HTML （16）    PDF（pc） （1948KB）（77）       Knowledge map    Save In this work, 10 commonly used surfactants were selected. The surface tension of their aqueous solutions was compared, and then the properties such as foam volume, foam density and foam stability were studied by using DFA100 dynamic foam analyzer. Pearson correlation coefficient was used to clarify the correlation between those indexes of foam characteristics. The results showed that, among these 10 surfactants, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate had the best foamability. The foams of disodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium cocoyl alaninate were the densest. The foam morphology stability and foam density stability were the best for sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and disodium cocoyl glutamate, but the worst for capryl/capramidopropyl betaine. However, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine had the best foam volume stability. The results of Pearson correlation coefficient analysis showed that a surfactant solution with lower surface tension was more likely to produce dense foams. The liquid content of foam would be higher if the bubbles were more abundant. The foam volume for the surfactant solution with larger initial foam density was more likely to collapse. The bubble number with higher drainage rate was decreased faster. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Evaluation of anti-aging effect of percutaneous application of Silybum marianum extract Meiling He,Limin Fan China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 981-987.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.013 Abstract （91）   HTML （7）    PDF（pc） （1646KB）（76）       Knowledge map    Save The study aims to investigate the anti-aging effect of Silybum marianum extract （SME） on skin aging mice induced by D-galactose （D-gal）. The mice were divided into 6 groups. The mouse model of skin aging was induced by subcutaneous injection of D-gal （1 g/ （kg·d）） on the back for 6 weeks. Body weight, skin water content, skin oxidative stress index, HYP and HA levels of mice in each group were measured. HE staining was used to evaluate the skin injury. The relative mRNA expressions of collagen Ⅰ, collagen Ⅲ, MMP-1 and MMP-3 in skin were detected by RT-qPCR. The relative expressions of Nrf2 （nucleus）, Keap1 and HO-1 in skin were detected by Western blotting. The results show that percutaneous application of all three doses of SME increase the skin water content, alleviate the skin injury, increase the levels of SOD, CAT and GSH-Px, decrease the level of MDA, increased the levels of HYP and HA, increase the relative expression of collagen Ⅰ and collagen Ⅲ mRNA, decrease the relative expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 mRNA, increase the relative expression of Nrf2 （nucleus） and HO-1 protein, and decrease the relative expression of Keap1 protein in D-gal-induced aging mice （P<0.05）. ML385 inhibits the activation of Nrf2 pathway and weakens the anti-aging effect of SME （P<0.05）. This study shows that percutaneous application of SME has a good anti-aging effect on skin aging mice induced by D-gal, and Nrf2 pathway mediates the anti-aging effect of SME. SME may be a kind of anti-aging daily skin care material with high development value. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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A review of methods for evaluating effectiveness of cosmetic products and ingredients based on mechanisms of the human hair growth cycle Jiaqi Zhang, Kening Wan, Ranjit Kaur Bhogal, Mingming Pu, Jiayin Gu, Yao Pan China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1504-1514.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.013 Abstract （140）   HTML （7）    PDF（pc） （9295KB）（74）       Knowledge map    Save With the increasing incidence of hair loss and especially among younger population in recent years, the demand for diversified products on anti-hair loss solutions is growing and the market of cosmetic products expanding accordingly. Worldwide attention is being paid to the research and development of anti-hair loss actives, while there is no unified standard for the efficacy evaluation and testing methods of anti-hair loss cosmetics. Therefore, it is critical to establish standardized methodology for assessing the effectiveness of anti-hair loss actives and their cosmetic products. In this review, an overview of the human hair follicle structure, the hair follicle cycle, and the biological pathways and signaling mechanisms involved in hair growth are summarized. This provides the fundamental understanding of human hair growth for reviewing anti-hair loss actives and cosmetic hair loss products, and respective methods and techniques applied for evaluating their efficacy. Additionally, changes in the normal hair cycle, and corresponding cosmetic strategies to slow down and reduce hair loss have been provided. This review aims to provide recommendations for evaluating the effectiveness of anti-hair loss actives on the mechanisms involved in the hair follicle growth cycle, and so provide criteria for new technology development and scientific research for cosmetic products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Skin brightening benefit of 4-hexylresorcinol in vivo and in vitro and its underlying mechanism Xuelan Gu, Hong Zhang, Xue Xiao, Zhuang Zhou, Jue Qu, Yibing Shi China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1437-1446.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.005 Abstract （2252）   HTML （18）    PDF（pc） （7450KB）（73）       Knowledge map    Save 4-Hexylresorcinol （4-HR）, a potent tyrosinase inhibitor, has been used as an even-tone active ingredient for skin care application since 2007. While the skin brightening efficacy of 4-HR in Chinese population has not been thoroughly investigated and its significance in keratinocytes has not been fully raveled. This study aims to evaluate the skin brightening potential of 4-HR in vivo and in vitro and explore its new mechanism of action through transcriptome approach. The skin brightening effect of 0.4% 4-HR in a facial serum was assessed in an 8-week, double-blinded, placebo-controlled, and randomized clinical study in 67 Chinese participants. ITA°, melanin index （MI） and visual grading were measured at baseline and 2, 4 and 8 weeks after use. A pigmented living skin equivalent （pLSE） model constructed from Asian skin cells was utilized to assess the brightening efficacy of 0.4% 4-HR by measuring the model’s brightness （L* value） and melanin content. Then, transcriptomic analysis of 4-HR treated human epidermal keratinocytes was conducted, and the two in vitro models were adopted for hypothesis validation afterwards. In the clinical study, the result shows both 0.4% 4-HR serum and placebo chassis can significantly improve all measures as compared to baseline at the 2, 4, and 8 weeks. Furthermore, 0.4% HR serum demonstrates a better performance in increasing ITA° as early as 2 weeks of application and decreasing MI value than the placebo group at Week 2. In the pLSE model, 0.4% 4-HR with topical application evidently increases L* value by 15.88% and decreases melanin content by 47.61% compared to UVB group. RNA-sequencing analysis implies that 4-HR can regulate multiple biological processes including skin development, keratinocyte differentiation, oxidant activity and autophagy function. In the blue-light challenged human keratinocytes model, 4-HR shows a significant ROS suppression capacity. In the keratinocytes-melanocytes co-culture model, 4-HR prompts autophagy activity and decreases melanin content. Most importantly, the melanin inhibitory activity of 4-HR is compromised after co-treating with Chloroquine, an autophagy inhibitor, suggesting autophagy regulation property of 4-HR may partially contribute to its skin brightening efficacy. Taken together, these data demonstrate skin brightening efficacy of 0.4% 4-HR in vivo and in vitro, in addition to acting as a tyrosinase inhibitor, 4-HR can contribute to skin brightening benefit via enhancing cellular antioxidant capacity and autophagy activation. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Establishment of an in vitro test and evaluation method for cosmetic foundation Keying Xiao,Jiajing Cai,Huimin Zi,Feifei Wang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 939-946.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.008 Abstract （80）   HTML （9）    PDF（pc） （1863KB）（73）       Knowledge map    Save This study aims to establish the methods of evaluating cosmetic foundation in vitro from four dimensions: concealment, dullness, migration resistance as well as the ability of water resistance, sweat resistance and sebum resistance. The automatic film coating machine was used to evenly coat the samples in the first steps. The concealment and dullness sections were evaluated by MetaVue VS3200 spectrophotometer, which measured the hiding rate of the samples and the color characterization values of the foundation （ΔL, Δa, Δb）. The coverage rate of sample E1 is 90.98 cr, which is the highest coverage. The ΔL value of sample D2 has the largest change of -2.73 as well as the highest dullness. Combined with the result of consumer testing for further verification, the overall score results are consistent with in vitro test results. Also, the ability of migration resistance was determined and compared by the image analysis of software Image-Pro Plus 6.0 through the testing of the amount of rubbed powder. Moreover, through the contact angle measuring device, the capabilities of water, sweat, and sebum resistance of the foundation samples could be compared based on the measurement of the contact angles of deionized water, artificial sweat, and artificial sebum on the sample surface. The contact angles of sample B1 and D2 with deionized water and artificial sweat are greater than 90° for removal of lipophilicity. The contact angles of all samples are less than 90° for removal of lipophilicity, among which sample E1 and sample F are relatively lower in removal of lipophilicity, and the contact angles are respectively 40.8° and 40.0°. The results of water resistance, sweat and sebum tested in this study are generally consistent with the test results based on existing literature. The results show that four methodologies of scientific measurement with instruments are feasible and valid, and they help develop the convenience and scientific rigor of in vitro evaluation. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Hydration transformation behaviors of CO2 and excellent anti-inflammatory activity on RAW 264.7 cell Wanping Zhang, Yiting Gu, Xuyan Li, Zhiyong Sun, Chunhong Wei, Dongmei Zhang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1289-1297.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.001 Abstract （1919）   HTML （17）    PDF（pc） （1353KB）（73）       Knowledge map    Save Skin care products with carbonic acid （H2CO3） have gained extensive attention worldwide. However, the conversion of CO2 to H2CO3 is not stable, and the mechanism of the effect of H2CO3 on skin care has not been clearly proved. The hydration-dissolution behaviors of CO2 were investigated under different temperature, pH, and pressure conditions. Moreover, based on the phenomenon of CO2 hydration transformation, the inflammatory effect of CO2 hydrate on macrophages （RAW 264.7） was investigated. The result shows that the increase in temperature weakened the hydration of CO2, and the increase in pH and pressure both promoted the water-phase transformation of CO2. When pH<6, CO2 reacts with water to generate H2CO3. When pH was between 6-7, the prompt solution was a mixture of H2CO3 and HCO3-. When the pH was between 7-9, they mainly generated HCO3-. And when pH>9, CO2 solubility mainly converts to CO32-. Besides, CO2 can inhibit the secretion of inflammatory factors by RAW 264.7 cells by inhibiting the phosphorylation of the p38 protein. CO2 hydrate inhibited the expression of pro-inflammatory factors IL-6, TNF-α, and up-regulated the expression of anti-inflammatory factor IL-10. Furthermore, the anti-inflammatory molecular mechanism of CO2 hydration inhibited the MAPK signaling pathway by inhibiting the phosphorylation of p38. The hydration-dissolution behavior of CO2 was investigated. This work revealed the anti-inflammatory bioeffect of CO2 hydrate, providing a theoretical basis and application support for CO2 skin care products. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Ultrasound-assisted enzymatic degradation to obtain pectin derivatives from Citrus aurantium L. and its antioxidant properties Wei Qian,Bin Yang,Bo Shao,Li Wan,Jun Zhou China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 947-955.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.009 Abstract （37）   HTML （2）    PDF（pc） （1440KB）（72）       Knowledge map    Save In this paper, pectin derivatives obtained from the degradation of Citrus aurantium L. pectin was prepared by ultrasound-assisted enzymatic method. The effects of ultrasound pretreatment time, enzyme type and amount of enzyme addition on the antioxidant activity of degradation derivatives of Citrus aurantium L. pectin were investigated. Then the content, molecular weight distribution and structural properties of galacturonic acid from the degradation derivatives of Citrus aurantium L. pectin were analyzed by titration gel chromatography and infrared spectroscopy to verify the plausible explanation for the enhanced antioxidant activity of pectin degradation derivatives. The results confirm that the best scavenging rate of DPPH radicals and ABTS radicals as well as the reducing ability of potassium ferricyanide of the pectin degradation derivatives are obtained, when pectinase is selected as the degrading enzyme with the dosage of 6 000 U/g and the ultrasound-pretreatment time is 20 min. Under these conditions, the degradation derivatives of Citrus aurantium L. pectin prepared at a mass concentration of 3 mg/mL, shows a more significant increasing in antioxidant activity with a 62.94% scavenging of DPPH radicals, a 52.67% scavenging of ABTS radicals and a reducing capacity of 0.962 7, compared to the undegraded pectin. The content of galacturonic acid in the degradation derivatives of Citrus aurantium L. pectin varies significantly with the degradation process. Also it is verified that it is a positive correlation between galacturonic acid content and antioxidant activity, and that a lower molecular weight and lower methoxy content of the degradation derivatives are obtained compared to Citrus aurantium L. pectin, but the pyranose structure of the pectin is not changed in the degradation process. The results of this study provide theoretical basis and reference for the high-value utilization of Citrus aurantium L. pectin. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics Chunfang Zhu, Junbiao Li, Zhenming Xie China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1243-1250.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.012 Abstract （1793）   HTML （7）    PDF（pc） （6540KB）（71）       Knowledge map    Save The multiple emulsion system is an emulsification system with a special structure in the cosmetic formulation process. It can improve the stability and safety of cosmetic functional ingredients, improve the skin feel of traditional emulsions, and achieve synergistic encapsulation and sustained release of different functional ingredients. It has received more and more widespread attention in the field of cosmetics and has become a research hotspot of cosmetic emulsification systems. In formula design and practical application, multiple emulsions are not widely used in the actual production process of cosmetics due to their complex structure, poor stability, difficulty in preparation, and high requirements for actual production process application. This article first introduces multiple emulsions and their characteristic structures, then explains the preparation methods and factors affecting stability of multiple emulsions, providing ideas for solving the stability problems of multiple emulsions. Finally, it outlines the application of different types of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics, and looks forward to the application prospects of multiple emulsions. It aims to provide a theoretical basis for the preparation and application of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Performance of branched-chain extended surfactant mixed with zwitterionic or cationic surfactant Xiaoding Zeng, Yancheng Zheng, Guoqing Zhang, Lingchi Zeng, Jian Mu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1405-1413.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.001 Abstract （2157）   HTML （14）    PDF（pc） （6684KB）（67）       Knowledge map    Save 2-Hexyl-1-decanol was used as the main material to prepare a block-polyether sulfonate extended surfactant （IC16P6E6S）. The solubility and surface active properties of IC16P6E6S were evaluated, and then the IC16P6E6S was mixed with a cationic surfactant hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide （CTAB） and a zwitterionic betaine surfactant （HAB）, respectively. The effects of mixing ratios of IC16P6E6S∶HAB and IC16P6E6S∶CTAB on the hydrodynamic diameter and interfacial properties were discussed. The emulsification, adsorption and laboratory core displacement experiments of the binary system were tested. The results showed that the critical micelle concentration （cmc） of IC16P6E6S in distilled water was 0.1 mmol/L and the surface tension at cmc （γcmc） was 28.53 mN/m. IC16P6E6S showed strong synergistic effects with HAB and CTAB, and the mixed systems could effectively reduce the interfacial tension compared with single surfactants. The mixed systems with n （IC16P6E6S） ∶n （HAB） of 1∶1 and n （IC16P6E6S） ∶n（CTAB） of 1∶3 could maintain ultra-low interfacial tension （in the order of magnitude of 10-3 mN/m） in the salinity range of 1%-7% NaCl and low interfacial tension （in the order of magnitude of 10-2 mN/m） in the salinity range of 3%-7% NaCl, respectively. With the increase of salinity, the emulsion formed by the mixed surfactant system underwent the phase transition process from Winsor Ⅰ to Winsor Ⅲ and then to Winsor Ⅱ. The emulsion of mixed IC16P6E6S/HAB system had more middle-phase emulsion volume than that of the mixed IC16P6E6S/CTAB system, and the former emulsion system was more stable. The mixed IC16P6E6S/HAB system also had good solubilization effect, and the amount of oil solubilization was up to 43 mL/g. Meanwhile, it had good adsorption resistance. Compared with water flooding, the depressurization rate could reach 25.00% and the recovery could be enhanced by 11.75%, indicating that the IC16P6E6S/HAB system was more conducive to the depressurization and injection enhancement for low-permeability reservoirs. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Advances in polymeric materials for bio-lubrication Shida Hou, Ping Peng, Yuankang Liu, Jing Yan, Yi Yan China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (1): 12-25.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.01.002 Abstract （130）   HTML （8）    PDF（pc） （3335KB）（67）       Knowledge map    Save Natural lubricants play an important role in the functions of living organisms. When the lubrication for tissue interface were lost due to various factors, exogenous lubricant material would be necessary to provide lubrication property. In this review, the types of natural lubricants and the lubrication mechanism at biological interfaces are introduced in detail. The recent research progress on the lubrication strategies for different tissue friction interfaces and on the construction of polymeric lubrication materials are reviewed. Specifically, the conformational relationships, lubrication properties, and additional biological functions of the polymeric materials used for skin moisturizing and lubrication, articular cartilage lubrication, mucosal lubrication, anti-tissue adhesion, as well as medical catheter lubrication are summarized. The unique contributions of these polymeric materials in reducing tissue friction and promoting repair of damaged tissues are emphasized. In addition, the optimization of functionality, and the practical applications of polymeric lubricant materials are prospected, which might provide guidance for the future development of polymeric materials in the field of lubrication at biological tissue interfaces. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of highly stable O/W Pickering emulsion based on amphiphilic Janus-SiO2 particles Keke Zhang, Huanjin Zou, Ye Fan, Yongmin Zhang, Xuefeng Liu, Yinjun Fang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (3): 271-278.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.03.001 Abstract （106）   HTML （38）    PDF（pc） （8248KB）（65）       Knowledge map    Save Janus-SiO2 nanoparticles were prepared by Pickering emulsion templating method by using 3-（2-aminoethylamino）propyltrimethoxysilane and n-octyl trimethoxysilane. The results of FT-IR, TG, contact angle and Zeta potential confirmed the successful grafting of amino groups and octyl groups onto the surface of SiO2 nanoparticles. Considering the emulsion droplet diameter and emulsification index, the optimal emulsification conditions were obtained at a homogenization intensity of 15 000 r/min, Janus-SiO2 nanoparticle mass fraction of 1.0%, and water-to-oil volume ratio of 5∶5. The average droplet diameter of the Pickering emulsion thus obtained was approximately 56.6 μm. The Janus-SiO2 nanoparticles exhibited good emulsification performance, which could stabilize high internal phase emulsion and have low-energy emulsification and broad oil phase universality. The results of stability test demonstrated that the Pickering emulsion prepared remained stable at room temperature for more than two months and maintained stability in the temperature range of 4 to 90 ℃. The Pickering emulsion could be formed even when the aqueous phase had low or high pH or high mass concentrations of NaCl, indicative of excellent resistance to acid, base and electrolyte. In addition, the viscosity of the emulsion increased with increasing electrolyte mass concentration. The O/W Pickering emulsion stabilized with Janus-SiO2 particles exhibited remarkable stability, which had potential for applications in cleaning of oil stains under high-temperature and high-electrolyte conditions. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the preparation and properties of sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion Wanping Zhang, Lv Zhou, Zihao Gao, Haiyang Zhu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1447-1455.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.006 Abstract （112）   HTML （11）    PDF（pc） （7547KB）（64）       Knowledge map    Save To solve the greasiness and irritation risks brought about by organic sun-screening agents in sunscreen emulsions, in this work, a sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion was prepared by two-step emulsification method, in which the outer oil phase was silicone oil and the inner oil phase was solid lipid nanoparticles coated with organic sun-screening agent. Several influencing factors on the formation and stability of the emulsion were analyzed, including inorganic salts, the volume fraction of outer oil phase （silicone oil）, and the dosage of W/O emulsifier. The in vitro sunscreen performance, water resistance and skin permeability of different types of sunscreen emulsions were further studied. The results showed that the sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion containing 22.5% silicone oil, 2.5% emulsifier and 0.2% NaCl had the best stability under the experimental conditions. The SPF value and water resistance of sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion were slightly higher than those of sunscreen W/O emulsion, but significantly higher than those of sunscreen O/W emulsion. Compared with sunscreen W/O emulsion, the in vitro transdermal permeability of organic sun-screening agent in sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion was reduced by approximately 60%, indicative of higher safety and good application prospect in sunscreen cosmetics. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Experimental research of inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent for offshore high water cut oil fields Meng Yu, Guorui Xu, Xiang Li, Yufei Zheng, Xuan Feng, Jinzhou Yang, Fenggang Liu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1307-1312.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.003 Abstract （1907）   HTML （8）    PDF（pc） （1429KB）（64）       Knowledge map    Save An environmentally friendly inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent was prepared for those offshore high water cut oil fields with formation water containing sodium bicarbonate. Sodium silicate and calcium chloride were used as the main agents, while polycarboxylic acid dispersant and emulsion polymer were used as assistants. The effects of the type of polycarboxylic acid dispersant and the mass concentration of emulsion polymer on the performance of the deep profile control and oil displacement agent were studied. The results showed that when the acid-ether ratio of the polycarboxylic acid dispersant was 3.7 and its molecular weight was 23 800, the electrostatic repulsion and steric hindrance from polycarboxylic acid dispersant and inorganic particles achieved an effective dispersing effect. Combined with low concentration of emulsion polymer （500 mg/L）, the formulated inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement system could enhance the viscosity and strength of the system, and the initial viscosity was increased from 1.1 mPa·s to 5.4 mPa·s. The results showed that this inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent could increase the flow resistance, with a plugging rate of 82.3%. It could achieve online injection and had the characteristics of rapid dispersing, deep profile control and oil displacement, and low cost. This inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent had application value in high water cut oil fields. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the surface activity of Panax notoginseng root extract and the properties of the mixed system Jitao Liu,Yuxi Wang,Xuanlin Yang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 974-980.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.012 Abstract （68）   HTML （9）    PDF（pc） （1597KB）（64）       Knowledge map    Save The surface activity and compound synergy of Panax notoginseng root extract were studied. The results show that the cmc of Panax notoginseng root extract at 25 ℃ is 0.1 g/L and γcmc is 43.67 mN/m. In the salinity mass fraction range of 0%-1%, the surface activity increases with the increasing saltness. In the pH between 4.0-8.0, the surface tension of Panax notoginseng root extract decreases with the decreasing pH. According to Rosen’s theory, the optimal compound mass ratio between Panax notoginseng root extract and Tween 20 is 4∶1, and it is found that the ability of the mixed system to form micelles increases by 41.18% compared with the theoretical results. The emulsifying ability results show that the emulsifying ability and emulsifying stability of the mixed system are close to Tween 20 alone, indicating that the combination of Panax notoginseng root extract and Tween 20 has a good synergistic effect, but not on Tween 60. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the mixed systems of polyether organosilicon surfactant and classic anionic surfactants Xinzhi Liang, Ting Sun, Xinyao Ye, Yukai Wang, Liang Bai, Hongguang Li China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1155-1165.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.002 Abstract （2083）   HTML （10）    PDF（pc） （9356KB）（62）       Knowledge map    Save Polyether organosilicon surfactants have received widespread attention in recent years due to their excellent surface activities. To further expand the downstream application and develop a surfactant formula, in this work, a polyether modified trisiloxane surfactant was mixed with a classical anionic surfactant （alkyl glycoside sulfonate or fatty-alcohol polyethoxylate phosphate）, and the mixed adsorption parameters and mixed micellization parameters of the binary surfactant mixtures were investigated in detail. For the selected mixing ratio, the dispersing performance of binary surfactant mixtures was evaluated in common model systems （foam, emulsion, suspension）, which could provide an important reference for the application and development of systems of polyether modified silicone surfactants. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the drainage behavior of mixed aqueous-and-oil foam Hao Xu,Yongli Yan,Hui Liu,Bingcheng He China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (2): 154-161.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.02.003 Abstract （64）   HTML （5）    PDF（pc） （1927KB）（61）       Knowledge map    Save Mixed aqueous-and-oil foams have been widely used in various industrial fields such as food, oil production and cosmetics. However, most reports on mixed aqueous-and-oil foams have focused on their formation and stability, and few reports on their drainage behavior. In this work, dodecane and kerosene were used as the oil phase, respectively, which were then mixed with water in a certain proportion, and finally 0.125% anionic surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate （SDS） was added to prepare mixed aqueous-and-oil foam. The foam volume, half-life, apparent viscosity, microscopic foam structure, and the changes of conductivity, drainage volume, drainage rate and bubble size during free drainage were studied to find the rule and influence mechanism for the physical properties of mixed aqueous-and-oil foam during drainage. It was found that the mixed aqueous-and-oil foams with various oil-water volume ratios （1∶9-5∶5） exhibited shear thinning as non-Newtonian fluids. Compared with corresponding aqueous foam, the mixed aqueous-and-oil foam had poor comprehensive performance of foaming but strong liquid-carrying ability. With the increase of oil-water volume ratio, the drainage rate of mixed aqueous-and-oil foam decreased and the liquid-carrying ability increased. The drainage behavior of mixed aqueous-and-oil foam could be divided into three stages, the rapid drainage stage dominated by gravity, the slow drainage stage dominated by the viscosity of continuous phase, and the oil-droplet-blocked drainage stage. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application of consumer evaluation methods in sensitive skin-friendly facial creams Rong Qi, Dangdang Cheng China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (4): 464-471.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.04.008 Abstract （70）   HTML （13）    PDF（pc） （1343KB）（60）       Knowledge map    Save To thoroughly investigate the preferred characteristics of sensitive skin-friendly facial cream, a consumer study was conducted on five popularly marketed creams designed specifically for sensitive skin. The research applied several consumer study methods, including a 9-point hedonic scale, rate-all-that-apply （RATA）, and ideal profile method （IPM）. These tools were utilized to explore aspects such as product appeal, ideal product profiles, product features, and emotional associations, allowing for a comprehensive analysis of the tested products across multiple dimensions. Findings indicate that selecting appropriate consumer survey methods in alignment with the study’s objectives, combined with the application of various techniques, can yield a more complete development strategy for sensitive skin creams. Additionally, compared to traditional consumer preference studies, evaluations focusing on product concepts and emotional associations have shown significant value in consumer decision-making processes. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and evaluation of the liquid crystal emulsion based on wax ester emulsifier Linghua Shen, Vincent Hubiche, Paula Lennon, Jie Zhuang, Jin Zhang, Qianjie Zhang, Wanping Zhang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1320-1329.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.005 Abstract （1793）   HTML （7）    PDF（pc） （8722KB）（59）       Knowledge map    Save The influences of preparation technology and formula composition （oils, polyols, rheological regulators and ionic components） on the formation of liquid crystal structure in the emulsion stabilized with wax ester emulsifier were systematically studied, and the application performance of the liquid crystal emulsion was also tested. The experimental results showed that the one-pot method was more conducive to the formation of liquid crystal structure of the emulsion system. The emulsifier had good compatibility with vegetable oil and good emulsifying ability. For plant-origin oils, the smaller the interfacial tension between oil and water, the better the emulsifying effect and the more conducive to the formation of liquid crystal structure. The addition of glycerol could maintain the original excellent liquid crystal structure and stability of the system, but 1,3-butanediol would disrupt the molecular arrangement in the interfacial layer due to the hydrated groups formed by hydrogen bonding with water, thus reducing the integrity and stability of the liquid crystal structure of the system; the addition of ionic components could significantly enhance the liquid crystal structure of the system by increasing the compactness of the arrangement of emulsifiers; the addition of natural rheological regulators, such as AX and Tara, could enhance the high-temperature stability of the liquid crystal structure of the system, while Carbopol® type could enhance its low-temperature stability. Meanwhile, by study of the application performance of liquid crystal emulsion, it was found that the liquid crystal emulsion prepared with wax ester emulsifier had better moisturizing performance than the ordinary structured emulsion, and had certain slow-release effect. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Hair follicle and scalp problems and their countermeasures Feng Liu, Tingting Han, Qingwen Jia, Suzhen Yang, Zhijuan Hu, Qianqian Sun China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1251-1259.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.013 Abstract （90）   HTML （8）    PDF（pc） （7516KB）（58）       Knowledge map    Save Hair follicles are tiny epithelial organs on the scalp that are complex and cyclical in structure. Hair follicles play an important role in the scalp. Each hair follicle is an independent hair production factory. Healthy hair follicles play a key role in the good maintenance of the scalp and hair, and hair follicles are non-renewable. When hair follicles shrink or become blocked due to genetics, androgens, stress and other factors, it can lead to a series of scalp problems. At present, there are extensive researches related to hair follicle biology at home and abroad, but there are few reports linking various scalp problems with hair follicles. This paper mainly reviews the correlation between the occurrence of various scalp problems such as dandruff, androgen alopecia, folliculitis and hair follicles, and summarizes the mechanism of various scalp problems from the perspective of hair follicles and provides corresponding solutions. It points out the direction of scientific scalp care. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on the application of ferulic acid in cosmetics Shiyu Deng, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1489-1496.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.011 Abstract （2039）   HTML （8）    PDF（pc） （7103KB）（57）       Knowledge map    Save Ferulic acid is a phenolic compound widely exists in plants. Currently ferulic acid on the market is mainly extracted from plants, but it can also be obtained via biosynthesis or chemical synthesis. The biosynthesis method has a great potential for future production of ferulic acid. Ferulic acid is frequently used as a whitening ingredient in cosmetics, since it reduces melanin production by competitively inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It also has strong antioxidant activity, including elimination of free radicals, inhibition of ROS production, and regulation of various signaling pathways and the activity of antioxidant enzymes. The anti-UV activity of ferulic acid makes it applicable in sunscreen cosmetics. It can absorb UV rays and inhibit UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase MMP-2 and MMP-9 activities to attenuate the damage caused by UV radiation. Ferulic acid is also reported to display protective effects on human keratinocytes and human skin fibroblasts. In addition, it is found to have effective anti-aging effect, mainly through inhibiting the degradation of hyaluronic acid by reducing the activities of collagenase and hyaluronidase, and inducing the biosynthesis of pre-collagen and hyaluronic acid. Ferulic acid shows potential for the treatment of atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and other inflammatory diseases of the skin. Its anti-inflammatory effect results from the inhibition of multiple inflammatory factors and signaling pathways. Ferulic acid displays broad-spectrum antibacterial effect, by damaging the cell membranes of bacteria and fungi which leads to membrane leakage and cell death. Furthermore, ferulic acid can also promote skin healing and regeneration. However, the instability of ferulic acid limits its applications in cosmetics. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Corrosion-inhibiting effects of triazinyl Gemini surfactants on carbon steel in aqueous solution containing 0.5 mol/L H2SO4 Mengying Yuan, Dehua Wang, Huikai Nan, Tao Geng, Hongyi Liu, Hailin Zhu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1145-1154.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.001 Abstract （2802）   HTML （18）    PDF（pc） （7806KB）（56）       Knowledge map    Save The triazinyl Gemini surfactants with different hydrophobic chain lengths （Cm-2-Cm, m=6, 8, 12） were synthesized by using cyanuric chloride, hexylamine/octylamine/dodecylamine, ethylenediamine,N, N-dimethyl-1, 3-propanediamine and bromoethane as raw materials. The molecular structure was characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and ESI-MS. The surface activities of the three triazinyl Gemini surfactants （C6-2-C6, C8-2-C8 and C12-2-C12） were investigated by surface tension method. Their corrosion-inhibition properties on 45# carbon steel in 0.5 mol/L H2SO4 were studied by static weight loss method, electrochemical impedance spectroscopy, potentiodynamic polarization and quantum chemistry. The results showed that, when the carbon number of hydrophobic chain was increased from 6 to 12, the critical micelle concentration （cmc） of the triazinyl Gemini surfactant was decreased from 0.059 mmol/L to 0.013 mmol/L, and meanwhile the pc20 value was increased from 1.23 to 1.89. The results of electrochemical impedance showed that, the corrosion inhibition efficiency increased with the increase of carbon number of hydrophobic chain for the surfactants at the same concentration. The inhibition efficiency could reach 95.03% for 45# carbon steel in 0.5 mol/L H2SO4 when adding 0.2 mmol/L C12-2-C12. The results of potentiodynamic polarization showed that the three surfactants were mixed corrosion inhibitors which mainly inhibited the cathode. These three triazinyl Gemini surfactants could effectively adsorb on the carbon steel surface, as shown by the results of quantum chemical calculation. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Characterization of recombinant elastin and its roles in ultraviolet-induced skin photoaging Ya Zhang, Hao Zhou, Rong Wang, Zengmiao Hou, Wentao Huang, Lu Yang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1106-1116.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.012 Abstract （76）   HTML （2）    PDF（pc） （1459KB）（56）       Knowledge map    Save The recombinant-elastin engineering bacteria was constructed by genetic engineering technology, and then recombinant elastin was obtained by fermentation purification technology. The recombinant elastin was characterized and identified by N-terminal sequencing of amino acids, molecular weight determination, analysis of amino acid composition, protein purity analysis, endotoxicity determination, infrared spectroscopy and circular dichroism analysis. To explore the roles of recombinant elastin in UVB-induced skin photoaging, the effects of recombinant elastin on the adhesion ability and cell viability of L929 mouse embryonic fibroblasts, as well as the effects of recombinant elastin on the expression levels of Collagen Ⅰ, Collagen Ⅲ, Elastin and matrix metalloproteinase 1 （MMP-1）, were investigated in the model of UVB-induced L929 cell photoaging. The results showed that the secondary structure of recombinant elastin was similar to that of natural elastin. The recombinant elastin showed certain cell viability and no cytotoxicity at 0.1 mg/mL, which significantly promoted the adhesion and proliferation of L929 cells. Additionally, recombinant elastin could also improve the mRNA transcription levels of Collagen Ⅰ, Collagen Ⅲ and Elastin in UVB irradiated cells by down-regulating the expression of MMP-1 in UVB irradiated cells, thus protecting L929 cells from light damage. That was why recombinant elastin could improve the survival rate of photodamaged fibroblasts. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Extraction and antioxidant activity of total flavonoids from chamomile Chuanmao Li, Zhi Qiu, Fengliang Wang, Shengjie Lin, Hui Deng, Yingwei Li China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1039-1049.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.004 Abstract （78）   HTML （10）    PDF（pc） （1477KB）（56）       Knowledge map    Save By optimizing the extraction and purification process, the study first used supercritical CO2 to remove the lipophilic components of chamomile, and then combined with ultrasound assisted the extraction of total flavonoids from chamomile. The total flavonoids in chamomile were separated and purified using macroporous resin, and the total flavonoid components were analyzed and characterized. The optimal process conditions for obtaining supercritical CO2 to remove fat soluble components from chamomile are: extraction temperature of 50 ℃, extraction time of 60 minutes, extraction pressure of 25 MPa, and chamomile fat removal rate of 8.66%. The optimal process conditions for ultrasound assisted extraction of total flavonoids from chamomile are: ultrasound time of 15 minutes, ethanol volume fraction of 50%, solid-liquid ratio of 1∶25 （g∶mL）, ultrasound power of 200 W, and total flavonoid extraction rate of 4.25%. After purification, the purity of total flavonoids in chamomile increase from 6.04% to 52.25%, while the purity of total flavonoids in chamomile is only 25.47% using the same purification process using a single ultrasound assisted extraction method without supercritical CO2 extraction. The results show that the combination of supercritical CO2 extraction and ultrasound assisted extraction can more efficiently extract total flavonoids from chamomile, and reduce the odor. The purified total flavonoids from chamomile can effectively scavenge DPPH and ABTS free radicals, and have strong antioxidant activity. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the silicon dioxide encapsulation for the enhancement of vitamin C stability Meiling Shi, Juanbo Chen, Hao Li, Yuanqin Huang, Qiqing Zhang, Sa Zeng, Tao Meng China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1015-1022.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.001 Abstract （3137）   HTML （15）    PDF（pc） （2190KB）（55）       Knowledge map    Save To improve the stability of vitamin C（Vc） in cosmetics, Vc was coated with silica dioxide （Vc@SiO2）, modified by silane （Vc@s-SiO2） and dispersed in decanoyl/octanoyl-glycerides （GTCC） oil phase system. The experimental results show that the encapsulation rate and drug loading rate are 68.2% and 13.6%, respectively, when Vc is encapsulated into silica dioxide. After modification, the surface of Vc@s-SiO2 is hydrophobic and the contact angle increases from 33.6° to 130.7°. When Vc is maintained at 50 ℃ or exposed to ultraviolet light, Vc@s-SiO2 exhibits an increase in antioxidant activity by 11.4 times and 27.7 times, respectively, compared to free Vc. This study reveals that silica dioxide coated Vc and dispersed in GTCC can isolate the adverse factors such as water oxygen, reduce the activity loss and improve the stability of Vc. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the non-aqueous foams stabilized by the modified nano-SiO2 particles Siqi Yao,Yongli Yan,Suiwang Zhang,Yu Chen,Bingcheng He China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 903-910.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.004 Abstract （546）   HTML （7）    PDF（pc） （2760KB）（55）       Knowledge map    Save Non-aqueous foams have a wide range of applications in petroleum exploitation, functional materials, daily chemical industry, etc. However, the low interfacial tension and low dielectric constant of non-aqueous solvents lead to the difficulty in forming stable foams. Therefore, to solve the difficulty in foaming for non-aqueous systems, nano-SiO2 particles were prepared and characterized by TEM, FT-IR and XRD. Then the wettability of nano-SiO2 particles was modified with 3-glycidyloxypropyl trimethoxysilane （GPTMS）, and the effects of nano-SiO2 particles of different wettability on the foaming performance of non-aqueous solvents were studied. The results showed that the contact angle of the particles could be regulated in the range from 34.7° to 116° by GPTMS modification. The surface tension of different solvents could be effectively reduced and the viscosity of the solvent systems was increased. When the mass fraction of particles was 7% and the particle size was 10 nm, the foam volume for non-aqueous solvents first increased and then decreased with the increase of the contact angle of nano-SiO2 particles, and the foam stability also first increased and then decreased with the increase of the contact angle of nano-SiO2 particles. In the formamide system, when the contact angle of particles was 92.3°, the foam volume could reach up to 12 mL, and the foam stability could reach 63 days. In the benzyl acetate system, when the contact angle of particles was 79.5°, the foam volume could reach up to 7 mL, and the foam stability could reach 47 days. In the decane system, when the contact angle of particles was 60.3°, the foam volume could reach up to 4 mL, and the foam stability could reach 8 days. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Boron-containing copolymers as environmentally friendly lubricant additives Hua Xue, Fengchun Liang, Weili Yang, Qun He, Meirong Cai, Feng Zhou, Weifeng Bu China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (1): 1-11.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.01.001 Abstract （144）   HTML （20）    PDF（pc） （1769KB）（55）       Knowledge map    Save Increasing environmental concerns about limiting harmful emissions has necessitated sulfur-and phosphorus-free green lubricant additives. Although boron-containing compounds have been widely investigated as green lubricant additives, their macromolecular analogs have been rarely considered yet to develop environmentally friendly lubricant additives. In this work, a series of boron-containing copolymers have been synthesized by free-radical copolymerization of stearyl methacrylate and isopropenyl boronic acid pinacol ester with different feeding ratios （Sn-r-Bm, n=1, m=1/3, 1, 2, 3, 5, 9）. The resulting copolymers of Sn-r-Bm （n=1, m=1/3, 1, 2, 3, 5） are readily dispersed in the PAO-10 base oil and form micelle-like aggregates with hydrodynamic diameters ranging from 9.7 to 52 nm. SRV-IV oscillating reciprocating tribological tests on ball-on-flat steel pairs show that compared with the base oil of PAO-10, the friction coefficients and wear volumes of the base oil solutions of Sn-r-Bm decrease considerably up to 62% and 97%, respectively. Moreover, the base oil solution of S1-r-B1 exhibits an excellent load-bearing capacity of （850±100） N. These superior lubricating properties are due to the formation of protective tribofilms comprising Sn-r-Bm, boron oxide, and iron oxide compounds on the lubricated steel surface. Therefore, the boron-containing copolymers can be regarded as a novel class of environmentally friendly lubricating oil macroadditives for efficient friction and wear reduction without sulfur and phosphorus elements. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application properties of a polymeric surfactant in different detergents Yuhuan Yan,Hechao Pan,Hongjie Bao,Jianhong Zhao,Yibo He China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 930-938.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.007 Abstract （74）   HTML （12）    PDF（pc） （2986KB）（54）       Knowledge map    Save The molecular weight, surface tension, and the particle size distribution of micellar aggregates of a polyether-polyacrylate polymeric surfactant, HS-PA, were characterized on gel permeation chromatograph, surface tension meter, and laser particle size analyzer, respectively. The thickening properties, detergency, liquid crystal morphology, suspension properties, and rheological behaviors of HS-PA in unstructured/structured detergents with LAS/AES/AEO9 as the main surfactants, respectively, were also investigated. The characterization results showed that, the weight-average molecular weight of HS-PA was 4 244, the critical micelle concentration was 3×10-7 mol/L, and the equilibrium surface tension was 42.06 mN/m; the average particle size of aggregates was increased when LAS, AES and AEO9 formed mixed micelles with HS-PA, respectively. The application test in unstructured detergents showed that, HS-PA had viscosity-enhancing effects on all the LAS/AES/AEO9-based systems, and meanwhile it was beneficial to the improvement of the detergency to sebum. The application test in structured detergents showed that, HS-PA would help the formation of lamellar liquid crystals in the LAS/AES/AEO9 systems, and the more HS-PA used, the more the liquid crystals in the AES system; the centrifugal separation results showed that the structured detergents containing HS-PA had the ability to stabilize the suspension of microcapsules; HS-PA could increase the yield stress of the LAS formulation system as determined by rotational rheometer. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Simultaneous determination of sulfonamides and quinolones antibiotics in cosmetics by high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry Piaopiao Yang,Jingya Zhang,Hong Liu,Lixia Li China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 997-1007.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.015 Abstract （51）   HTML （4）    PDF（pc） （1192KB）（53）       Knowledge map    Save A method for simultaneous determination of 53 anti-infective drugs such as quinolones and sulfonamides in cosmetics was established by high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （HPLC-MS/MS）. The samples were dispersed with saturated sodium chloride, extracted by ultrasound with 1% acetonitrile formate solution, and centrifuged. 0.1% Formic acid aqueous solution （containing 1 mmol/L ammonium acetate） and 0.1% formic acid methanol solution were chose as mobile phase, gradient elution was used, and electrospray ion source, positive ion multi-reaction monitoring mode （MRM） were used for determination with quantitative external standard method. The results show that the linear fitting of the 53 banned raw materials is good, with the correlation coefficient greater than 0.991 0, and the detection limit of 0.01-0.1 μg/g. The average recovery rates of sulfonamides and quinolones are 80.84% to 115.09% at low, medium, and high spiked mass concentrations. Among the 100 batches of samples screened, 1 batch is detected to contain sulfamethoxazole. The method has good sensitivity, selectivity and accuracy, and can be used for the determination of 53 anti-infective drugs in cosmetics. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the synthesis and biological activity of P7 lipopeptide Wenjie Zhang, Feng Shi, Ruiqing Xian, Yuxiang Dong, Kai Guo, Shengli Ji China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1050-1058.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.005 Abstract （54）   HTML （4）    PDF（pc） （1857KB）（53）       Knowledge map    Save P7 lipopeptide was synthesized through solid-phase peptide synthesis （SPPS） and hydrophobic-support-assisted liquid-phase peptide synthesis （LPPS）. Molecular docking technique was used for docking the product with 3OCG protein. MTT assay and Griess reagent were used to detect the biological toxicity and anti-inflammatory activity of P7 lipopeptide. The synthesized P7 lipopeptide was characterized by mass spectrometry. For SPPS and LPPS methods, the yields were 34.45% and 66.31%, respectively; the material consumptions were 129.12 g and 83.08 g, respectively; the waste liquid volumes were 7.12 L and 3.38 L, respectively; PMI were 30.81 and 10.29, respectively; E factors were 1 700.62 and 419.70, respectively. The results of molecular docking showed that the docking binding energy between P7 lipopeptide and p38 protein kinase （3OCG） was the smallest. P7 lipopeptide formed hydrogen bonds with residues ARGA70, ARGA189, TYRA35, ARGA67, ASNA155, and ASPA168, and interacted with residues by van der Waals forces, π-alkyl groups, and carbon hydrogen bonds. P7 lipopeptide had no biological toxicity within the concentration of 32 μmol/L. Different concentrations of P7 lipopeptide could significantly downregulating the release of NO in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cell inflammatory model. In summary, the LPPS method had higher yield and lower raw material consumption compared with SPPS method, making it suitable for industrial production. The results of molecular docking and cell experiments indicated that the designed P7 lipopeptide had good anti-inflammatory and antiosteoporosis activities. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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The protective effect and mechanism of crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower on UV-induced skin photodamage Zixuan Lai, Yuxuan Song, Xuewei Duan, Shiyun Liu, Bing Liu, Minjun Zhang, Huiwen Yang China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1069-1077.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.007 Abstract （57）   HTML （5）    PDF（pc） （3270KB）（51）       Knowledge map    Save To investigate the protective effect of crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower on skin photodamage, a total of 56 female Kunming mice were randomly divided into 7 groups: control group, model group, matrix gel group, vitamin A group, and crude polysaccharide low-dose, medium-dose and high-dose groups. The exposed back skin of the mice was irradiated by UVA to induce skin photodamage model, and the drugs were applied to the skin 1 hour before irradiation. After 8 weeks of continuous irradiation, the back skin was scored. The effects of crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower on the back skin morphology, skin thickness and collagen fibers were investigated by hematoxylin-eosin and Masson staining. And the contents of skin hydroxyproline, SOD, GSH-Px, CAT, MDA, TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6, and the protein expressions of MMP-1/3, Nrf2, HO-1 and NF-κB pathway were also examined. Pre-treated skin with different dose of crude polysaccharide gel 1 hour before UVA irradiation can improve roughness and ulceration of the back skin to different degrees, ameliorate skin thickening, and dermal collagen damage. At the same time, the activities of SOD, GSH-Px and CAT in skin tissue are increased, and the content of MDA is decreased （P<0.05）. The contents of pro-inflammatory cytokines, TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6, are decreased （P<0.05）. The contents of MMP-1 and MMP-3 are decreased significantly （P<0.05）, the expression of Nrf2 and HO-1 protein are increased （P<0.01）, and p-p65/p65 protein are decreased significantly （P<0.05） in the mouse back skin by pre-treatment with crude polysaccharide gel. The crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower has a strong antioxidant activity in vitro, and a protective effect on UVA-induced mice skin photodamage in vivo. The mechanism may be related to the activation of Nrf2 and inhibition of NF-κB signaling pathway, leading to the regulation of antioxidative enzyme SOD and improvement of inflammatory response. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics