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    Determination of transdermal permeation of sunscreen by confocal Raman spectroscopy and its application
    Yu Xie, Shaofeng Zhang, Wucheng Yang, Jiaying Xie, Ruifang Fan, Jianhua Tan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1133-1139.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.015
    Abstract3143)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (1657KB)(45)       Save

    Based on laser confocal Raman spectroscopy technology, a real-time in vivo testing method for the depth distribution and transdermal penetration of sunscreen in the stratum corneum of the skin was established using a skin component analyzer combined with multivariate linear regression analysis. Using volunteers’ arms as the experimental subject, the consistency of transdermal penetration ability of three common sunscreen agents, OMC, DBHB, and EHT, was tested and analyzed in different skin regions of the arm. And the transdermal penetration of the sunscreen agents in sunscreen lotions with different formulation was compared. The results indicate that the relative standard deviation of the skin penetration of sunscreen in different areas on the inner side of the arm is less than 15%, indicating that the method is suitable for comparison of the skin penetration of different sunscreen products. After one hour of skin penetration, it is found that the transdermal penetration of the three sunscreen agents in the skin is reduced by about 60%, and the penetration depth of EHT is relatively shallow, when the in oil-in-water sunscreen compared to the nano emulsion sunscreen. This method has been effectively applied in the study of transdermal penetration of sunscreen agents, and can provide methodological references for transdermal absorption of cosmetics.

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    Study on the silicon dioxide encapsulation for the enhancement of vitamin C stability
    Meiling Shi, Juanbo Chen, Hao Li, Yuanqin Huang, Qiqing Zhang, Sa Zeng, Tao Meng
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1015-1022.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.001
    Abstract3137)   HTML15)    PDF(pc) (2190KB)(55)       Save

    To improve the stability of vitamin C(Vc) in cosmetics, Vc was coated with silica dioxide (Vc@SiO2), modified by silane (Vc@s-SiO2) and dispersed in decanoyl/octanoyl-glycerides (GTCC) oil phase system. The experimental results show that the encapsulation rate and drug loading rate are 68.2% and 13.6%, respectively, when Vc is encapsulated into silica dioxide. After modification, the surface of Vc@s-SiO2 is hydrophobic and the contact angle increases from 33.6° to 130.7°. When Vc is maintained at 50 ℃ or exposed to ultraviolet light, Vc@s-SiO2 exhibits an increase in antioxidant activity by 11.4 times and 27.7 times, respectively, compared to free Vc. This study reveals that silica dioxide coated Vc and dispersed in GTCC can isolate the adverse factors such as water oxygen, reduce the activity loss and improve the stability of Vc.

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    Corrosion-inhibiting effects of triazinyl Gemini surfactants on carbon steel in aqueous solution containing 0.5 mol/L H2SO4
    Mengying Yuan, Dehua Wang, Huikai Nan, Tao Geng, Hongyi Liu, Hailin Zhu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1145-1154.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.001
    Abstract2802)   HTML18)    PDF(pc) (7806KB)(56)       Save

    The triazinyl Gemini surfactants with different hydrophobic chain lengths (Cm-2-Cm, m=6, 8, 12) were synthesized by using cyanuric chloride, hexylamine/octylamine/dodecylamine, ethylenediamine,N, N-dimethyl-1, 3-propanediamine and bromoethane as raw materials. The molecular structure was characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and ESI-MS. The surface activities of the three triazinyl Gemini surfactants (C6-2-C6, C8-2-C8 and C12-2-C12) were investigated by surface tension method. Their corrosion-inhibition properties on 45# carbon steel in 0.5 mol/L H2SO4 were studied by static weight loss method, electrochemical impedance spectroscopy, potentiodynamic polarization and quantum chemistry. The results showed that, when the carbon number of hydrophobic chain was increased from 6 to 12, the critical micelle concentration (cmc) of the triazinyl Gemini surfactant was decreased from 0.059 mmol/L to 0.013 mmol/L, and meanwhile the pc20 value was increased from 1.23 to 1.89. The results of electrochemical impedance showed that, the corrosion inhibition efficiency increased with the increase of carbon number of hydrophobic chain for the surfactants at the same concentration. The inhibition efficiency could reach 95.03% for 45# carbon steel in 0.5 mol/L H2SO4 when adding 0.2 mmol/L C12-2-C12. The results of potentiodynamic polarization showed that the three surfactants were mixed corrosion inhibitors which mainly inhibited the cathode. These three triazinyl Gemini surfactants could effectively adsorb on the carbon steel surface, as shown by the results of quantum chemical calculation.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅸ)The soluble, stable, multi-functional natural polysaccharide gum: fenugreek gum
    Yu Gao, Yejie Zhou, Yuanming Li, Qiyuan Liu, Yadi Liu, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1023-1029.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.002
    Abstract2643)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (1152KB)(38)       Save

    Fenugreek gum (FG) is one kind of water-soluble natural polysaccharides extracted from the endosperm of fenugreek legumes. It has appropriate physical and chemical properties, such as water solubility, water binding capacity, thickening ability, thermal stability, emulsifying ability, film-forming property, as well as salutary pharmacological actions like hypoglycemic activity, antihyperlipidemic effect, and antioxgenation property. Moreover, its physical, chemical properties and application performance can be significantly improved by physical modification, chemical modification, blending modification and enzymatic modification. Therefore, fenugreek gum has been gained more and more attention in many fields, including daily-use chemical industry, food processing industry, pharmaceutical industry, and oil recovery. In this paper, the name, extraction source, chemical structure, the main physicochemical properties of fenugreek gum along with its extraction and purification technologies, common modification methods are briefly presented. Furthermore, the application areas of fenugreek gum and its modified products, and the current challenges faced in its development, as well as the future research direction and prospects for the development of fenugreek gum are also discussed in this paper.

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    Skin care efficacy study of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level
    Jian Wang, Yuhui Fan, Danfeng Li, Ningwen Cheng, Ling Li, Yufeng Yu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1030-1038.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.003
    Abstract2507)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (1489KB)(90)       Save

    Studying the skin care efficacy of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level. The stability of the recombinant humanized collagen was first analyzed by treating at different temperatures, then its skincare efficacy based on in vitro level was evaluated by detecting the inhibition rate of elastase, the inhibition rate of collagenase, the protein content of type I collagen in human fibroblasts, the inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) with human keratinocytes, and the effects of the recombinant humanized collagen on the expression of hyaluronic acid (HA), filaggrin (FLG) and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) in keratinocytes. The results showed that recombinant humanized collagen was able to maintain stability at temperatures below 70 ℃. With regard to its skincare efficacy, recombinant humanized collagen could inhibit elastase and collagenase activities and promote the increase of type I collagen content in human fibroblasts. It also showed good inhibition of ROS in keratinocytes in vitro and could increase the expression of HA, FLG, and TGM1 in keratinocytes. In short, the recombinant humanized collagen exhibited a favourable skin care effect in vitro level. This study proved that it has potential firming, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and repairing efficacy, and is a valuable cosmetic raw material.

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    Study on the efficacy and mechanism of an amino acid combination in hair care
    Jiayi Fan, Wenshen Yu, Marina Bian, Zoe Yue, Jing Wang, Kuan Chang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1059-1068.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.006
    Abstract2480)   HTML12)    PDF(pc) (1856KB)(90)       Save

    The effect of a mixture of amino acids in hair care was studied. The repair effect of this raw material on hair was evaluated by stretching test and combing test. The experimental results showed that, the amino acid combination could increase the tension in the yield zone by 29.4% and reduce the combing work of hair by 22.4% (dry combing) and 18.1% (wet combing). According to the results of spectral characterization, fluorescent penetration test and stress relaxation test, it could be concluded that the amino acid combination could repair the broken bonds by permeating into the hair and thus achieve the effect of toughening, and make the hair lipid transfer to the hair surface, which lead to a repairing effect on the hair surface and improved the hair combability. In particular, it had significant repair effect on the damaged hair caused by perm and hair coloring.

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    Research and evaluation the performance of MQ-type silicone resin
    Jieying He, Jiajing Cai, Feifei Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1078-1085.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.008
    Abstract2430)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (1924KB)(48)       Save

    MQ silicone resin is the copolymerization product of tetraalkoxysilane (Q unit) and trimethylethoxysilane (M unit). It has a special double-layer tightly cross-linked spherical network structure, which not only has excellent water resistance, thermal stability and compatibility, but also is long-lasting, safe and non-irritating. So it has become one of the indispensable film-forming ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Therefore, it is vital to evaluate and screen the MQ silicone resin for improving the efficiency of formulation development. The molecular structure and film morphology of 21 MQ silicone resins were analyzed by GPC, microscopy and air permeability analyzer. According to the results, the relationship between the molecular structure of MQ and its application properties, such as film forming time, film brittleness, air permeability, water resistance, sweat resistance and oil resistance, were explored. The results show that the properties or performance of MQ silicone resin are depended on the size and distribution of its molecular weight. For the MQ-type silicone resin filmogen with higher molecular weight and narrower distribution, its film properties of hardness, water resistance and sweat resistance are enhanced with the increase of molecular weight, but its air permeability is subsequently weakened and film forming time is shorter. When the molecular weight decreases and the polymer dispersity index is almost unchanged or broadened, the MQ silicone resin show softer film, better oil resistance, longer film-forming time and higher air permeability.

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    Skin brightening benefit of 4-hexylresorcinol in vivo and in vitro and its underlying mechanism
    Xuelan Gu, Hong Zhang, Xue Xiao, Zhuang Zhou, Jue Qu, Yibing Shi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1437-1446.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.005
    Abstract2252)   HTML18)    PDF(pc) (7450KB)(73)       Save

    4-Hexylresorcinol (4-HR), a potent tyrosinase inhibitor, has been used as an even-tone active ingredient for skin care application since 2007. While the skin brightening efficacy of 4-HR in Chinese population has not been thoroughly investigated and its significance in keratinocytes has not been fully raveled. This study aims to evaluate the skin brightening potential of 4-HR in vivo and in vitro and explore its new mechanism of action through transcriptome approach. The skin brightening effect of 0.4% 4-HR in a facial serum was assessed in an 8-week, double-blinded, placebo-controlled, and randomized clinical study in 67 Chinese participants. ITA°, melanin index (MI) and visual grading were measured at baseline and 2, 4 and 8 weeks after use. A pigmented living skin equivalent (pLSE) model constructed from Asian skin cells was utilized to assess the brightening efficacy of 0.4% 4-HR by measuring the model’s brightness (L* value) and melanin content. Then, transcriptomic analysis of 4-HR treated human epidermal keratinocytes was conducted, and the two in vitro models were adopted for hypothesis validation afterwards. In the clinical study, the result shows both 0.4% 4-HR serum and placebo chassis can significantly improve all measures as compared to baseline at the 2, 4, and 8 weeks. Furthermore, 0.4% HR serum demonstrates a better performance in increasing ITA° as early as 2 weeks of application and decreasing MI value than the placebo group at Week 2. In the pLSE model, 0.4% 4-HR with topical application evidently increases L* value by 15.88% and decreases melanin content by 47.61% compared to UVB group. RNA-sequencing analysis implies that 4-HR can regulate multiple biological processes including skin development, keratinocyte differentiation, oxidant activity and autophagy function. In the blue-light challenged human keratinocytes model, 4-HR shows a significant ROS suppression capacity. In the keratinocytes-melanocytes co-culture model, 4-HR prompts autophagy activity and decreases melanin content. Most importantly, the melanin inhibitory activity of 4-HR is compromised after co-treating with Chloroquine, an autophagy inhibitor, suggesting autophagy regulation property of 4-HR may partially contribute to its skin brightening efficacy. Taken together, these data demonstrate skin brightening efficacy of 0.4% 4-HR in vivo and in vitro, in addition to acting as a tyrosinase inhibitor, 4-HR can contribute to skin brightening benefit via enhancing cellular antioxidant capacity and autophagy activation.

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    Performance of branched-chain extended surfactant mixed with zwitterionic or cationic surfactant
    Xiaoding Zeng, Yancheng Zheng, Guoqing Zhang, Lingchi Zeng, Jian Mu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1405-1413.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.001
    Abstract2157)   HTML14)    PDF(pc) (6684KB)(67)       Save

    2-Hexyl-1-decanol was used as the main material to prepare a block-polyether sulfonate extended surfactant (IC16P6E6S). The solubility and surface active properties of IC16P6E6S were evaluated, and then the IC16P6E6S was mixed with a cationic surfactant hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) and a zwitterionic betaine surfactant (HAB), respectively. The effects of mixing ratios of IC16P6E6S∶HAB and IC16P6E6S∶CTAB on the hydrodynamic diameter and interfacial properties were discussed. The emulsification, adsorption and laboratory core displacement experiments of the binary system were tested. The results showed that the critical micelle concentration (cmc) of IC16P6E6S in distilled water was 0.1 mmol/L and the surface tension at cmc (γcmc) was 28.53 mN/m. IC16P6E6S showed strong synergistic effects with HAB and CTAB, and the mixed systems could effectively reduce the interfacial tension compared with single surfactants. The mixed systems with n (IC16P6E6S) ∶n (HAB) of 1∶1 and n (IC16P6E6S) ∶n(CTAB) of 1∶3 could maintain ultra-low interfacial tension (in the order of magnitude of 10-3 mN/m) in the salinity range of 1%-7% NaCl and low interfacial tension (in the order of magnitude of 10-2 mN/m) in the salinity range of 3%-7% NaCl, respectively. With the increase of salinity, the emulsion formed by the mixed surfactant system underwent the phase transition process from Winsor Ⅰ to Winsor Ⅲ and then to Winsor Ⅱ. The emulsion of mixed IC16P6E6S/HAB system had more middle-phase emulsion volume than that of the mixed IC16P6E6S/CTAB system, and the former emulsion system was more stable. The mixed IC16P6E6S/HAB system also had good solubilization effect, and the amount of oil solubilization was up to 43 mL/g. Meanwhile, it had good adsorption resistance. Compared with water flooding, the depressurization rate could reach 25.00% and the recovery could be enhanced by 11.75%, indicating that the IC16P6E6S/HAB system was more conducive to the depressurization and injection enhancement for low-permeability reservoirs.

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    Study on the mixed systems of polyether organosilicon surfactant and classic anionic surfactants
    Xinzhi Liang, Ting Sun, Xinyao Ye, Yukai Wang, Liang Bai, Hongguang Li
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1155-1165.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.002
    Abstract2083)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (9356KB)(62)       Save

    Polyether organosilicon surfactants have received widespread attention in recent years due to their excellent surface activities. To further expand the downstream application and develop a surfactant formula, in this work, a polyether modified trisiloxane surfactant was mixed with a classical anionic surfactant (alkyl glycoside sulfonate or fatty-alcohol polyethoxylate phosphate), and the mixed adsorption parameters and mixed micellization parameters of the binary surfactant mixtures were investigated in detail. For the selected mixing ratio, the dispersing performance of binary surfactant mixtures was evaluated in common model systems (foam, emulsion, suspension), which could provide an important reference for the application and development of systems of polyether modified silicone surfactants.

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    Research progress on the application of ferulic acid in cosmetics
    Shiyu Deng, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1489-1496.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.011
    Abstract2039)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (7103KB)(57)       Save

    Ferulic acid is a phenolic compound widely exists in plants. Currently ferulic acid on the market is mainly extracted from plants, but it can also be obtained via biosynthesis or chemical synthesis. The biosynthesis method has a great potential for future production of ferulic acid. Ferulic acid is frequently used as a whitening ingredient in cosmetics, since it reduces melanin production by competitively inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It also has strong antioxidant activity, including elimination of free radicals, inhibition of ROS production, and regulation of various signaling pathways and the activity of antioxidant enzymes. The anti-UV activity of ferulic acid makes it applicable in sunscreen cosmetics. It can absorb UV rays and inhibit UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase MMP-2 and MMP-9 activities to attenuate the damage caused by UV radiation. Ferulic acid is also reported to display protective effects on human keratinocytes and human skin fibroblasts. In addition, it is found to have effective anti-aging effect, mainly through inhibiting the degradation of hyaluronic acid by reducing the activities of collagenase and hyaluronidase, and inducing the biosynthesis of pre-collagen and hyaluronic acid. Ferulic acid shows potential for the treatment of atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and other inflammatory diseases of the skin. Its anti-inflammatory effect results from the inhibition of multiple inflammatory factors and signaling pathways. Ferulic acid displays broad-spectrum antibacterial effect, by damaging the cell membranes of bacteria and fungi which leads to membrane leakage and cell death. Furthermore, ferulic acid can also promote skin healing and regeneration. However, the instability of ferulic acid limits its applications in cosmetics.

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    Hydration transformation behaviors of CO2 and excellent anti-inflammatory activity on RAW 264.7 cell
    Wanping Zhang, Yiting Gu, Xuyan Li, Zhiyong Sun, Chunhong Wei, Dongmei Zhang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1289-1297.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.001
    Abstract1919)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (1353KB)(73)       Save

    Skin care products with carbonic acid (H2CO3) have gained extensive attention worldwide. However, the conversion of CO2 to H2CO3 is not stable, and the mechanism of the effect of H2CO3 on skin care has not been clearly proved. The hydration-dissolution behaviors of CO2 were investigated under different temperature, pH, and pressure conditions. Moreover, based on the phenomenon of CO2 hydration transformation, the inflammatory effect of CO2 hydrate on macrophages (RAW 264.7) was investigated. The result shows that the increase in temperature weakened the hydration of CO2, and the increase in pH and pressure both promoted the water-phase transformation of CO2. When pH<6, CO2 reacts with water to generate H2CO3. When pH was between 6-7, the prompt solution was a mixture of H2CO3 and HCO3-. When the pH was between 7-9, they mainly generated HCO3-. And when pH>9, CO2 solubility mainly converts to CO32-. Besides, CO2 can inhibit the secretion of inflammatory factors by RAW 264.7 cells by inhibiting the phosphorylation of the p38 protein. CO2 hydrate inhibited the expression of pro-inflammatory factors IL-6, TNF-α, and up-regulated the expression of anti-inflammatory factor IL-10. Furthermore, the anti-inflammatory molecular mechanism of CO2 hydration inhibited the MAPK signaling pathway by inhibiting the phosphorylation of p38. The hydration-dissolution behavior of CO2 was investigated. This work revealed the anti-inflammatory bioeffect of CO2 hydrate, providing a theoretical basis and application support for CO2 skin care products.

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    Experimental research of inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent for offshore high water cut oil fields
    Meng Yu, Guorui Xu, Xiang Li, Yufei Zheng, Xuan Feng, Jinzhou Yang, Fenggang Liu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1307-1312.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.003
    Abstract1907)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (1429KB)(64)       Save

    An environmentally friendly inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent was prepared for those offshore high water cut oil fields with formation water containing sodium bicarbonate. Sodium silicate and calcium chloride were used as the main agents, while polycarboxylic acid dispersant and emulsion polymer were used as assistants. The effects of the type of polycarboxylic acid dispersant and the mass concentration of emulsion polymer on the performance of the deep profile control and oil displacement agent were studied. The results showed that when the acid-ether ratio of the polycarboxylic acid dispersant was 3.7 and its molecular weight was 23 800, the electrostatic repulsion and steric hindrance from polycarboxylic acid dispersant and inorganic particles achieved an effective dispersing effect. Combined with low concentration of emulsion polymer (500 mg/L), the formulated inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement system could enhance the viscosity and strength of the system, and the initial viscosity was increased from 1.1 mPa·s to 5.4 mPa·s. The results showed that this inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent could increase the flow resistance, with a plugging rate of 82.3%. It could achieve online injection and had the characteristics of rapid dispersing, deep profile control and oil displacement, and low cost. This inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent had application value in high water cut oil fields.

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    Application of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics
    Chunfang Zhu, Junbiao Li, Zhenming Xie
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1243-1250.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.012
    Abstract1793)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (6540KB)(71)       Save

    The multiple emulsion system is an emulsification system with a special structure in the cosmetic formulation process. It can improve the stability and safety of cosmetic functional ingredients, improve the skin feel of traditional emulsions, and achieve synergistic encapsulation and sustained release of different functional ingredients. It has received more and more widespread attention in the field of cosmetics and has become a research hotspot of cosmetic emulsification systems. In formula design and practical application, multiple emulsions are not widely used in the actual production process of cosmetics due to their complex structure, poor stability, difficulty in preparation, and high requirements for actual production process application. This article first introduces multiple emulsions and their characteristic structures, then explains the preparation methods and factors affecting stability of multiple emulsions, providing ideas for solving the stability problems of multiple emulsions. Finally, it outlines the application of different types of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics, and looks forward to the application prospects of multiple emulsions. It aims to provide a theoretical basis for the preparation and application of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics.

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    Preparation and evaluation of the liquid crystal emulsion based on wax ester emulsifier
    Linghua Shen, Vincent Hubiche, Paula Lennon, Jie Zhuang, Jin Zhang, Qianjie Zhang, Wanping Zhang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1320-1329.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.005
    Abstract1793)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (8722KB)(59)       Save

    The influences of preparation technology and formula composition (oils, polyols, rheological regulators and ionic components) on the formation of liquid crystal structure in the emulsion stabilized with wax ester emulsifier were systematically studied, and the application performance of the liquid crystal emulsion was also tested. The experimental results showed that the one-pot method was more conducive to the formation of liquid crystal structure of the emulsion system. The emulsifier had good compatibility with vegetable oil and good emulsifying ability. For plant-origin oils, the smaller the interfacial tension between oil and water, the better the emulsifying effect and the more conducive to the formation of liquid crystal structure. The addition of glycerol could maintain the original excellent liquid crystal structure and stability of the system, but 1,3-butanediol would disrupt the molecular arrangement in the interfacial layer due to the hydrated groups formed by hydrogen bonding with water, thus reducing the integrity and stability of the liquid crystal structure of the system; the addition of ionic components could significantly enhance the liquid crystal structure of the system by increasing the compactness of the arrangement of emulsifiers; the addition of natural rheological regulators, such as AX and Tara, could enhance the high-temperature stability of the liquid crystal structure of the system, while Carbopol® type could enhance its low-temperature stability. Meanwhile, by study of the application performance of liquid crystal emulsion, it was found that the liquid crystal emulsion prepared with wax ester emulsifier had better moisturizing performance than the ordinary structured emulsion, and had certain slow-release effect.

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    Molecular simulation study on the behavior of long-alkyl-chain betaine surfactants at the interface between water and the oil
    Fei Yi, Fantao Meng, Bin Chen, Hao Xu, Xiaoyan Wu, Xiaoliang Li
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1166-1171.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.003
    Abstract1778)   HTML6)    PDF(pc) (5799KB)(42)       Save

    With the large-scale implementation of chemical flooding, the demand for surfactants has increased sharply. Betaine surfactants are a type of efficient displacement agent suitable for multi-scenario exploitation in oilfields due to their excellent interfacial activity, salt resistance, and environmental friendliness. Molecular dynamics simulations were used to study the oil-water interface behavior and microscopic molecular configuration of betaine surfactants with different hydrophobic chain lengths and hydrophilic groups, so as to explore the interfacial activity of long-alkyl-chain betaine surfactants at the molecular level, and explain the recovery-enhancing mechanism. Through mutual verification between the simulation results and experimental data, microscopic explanations for macroscopic experimental phenomena were provided. Furthermore, the interfacial action mechanism of long-alkyl-chain betaine surfactants was summarized, providing guidance for the design of displacement agents based on the interface migration and distribution by molecular simulation.

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    Effect of fermented polypeptide of Sacha Inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.) on the structure of liquid crystal emulsion
    Xiaochun Liu, Tingting Luo, Jie Dai, Laicheng Chen, Qiuxing He
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1456-1464.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.007
    Abstract1729)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (7558KB)(34)       Save

    In order to study the action mechanism of Sacha Inchi polypeptide in liquid crystal emulsion, oil-in-water liquid crystal emulsions with Sacha Inchi fermented polypeptide as the active component were prepared. The microstructures, particle sizes, stabilities, thermodynamic properties, and rheological properties of liquid crystal emulsions with different concentrations of the fermentation products were observed by Polarizing microscope, Particle size meter, Thermogravimetric differential thermal synchronous measurement system, and Rheometer, respectively. The results showed that the average particle size of fermented peptide liquid crystal emulsion was (25.7±2.8) μm, and the liquid crystal structure was complete and stable. The content of bound water and liquid crystal in the emulsion with 1% Sacha Inchi polypeptide were higher than those in the blank emulsion and the emulsions with 3% and 5% Sacha Inchi polypeptide. Rheological results indicated that the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion with the change curve of shear rate registered the shear thinning phenomenon, which belongs to non-Newtonian fluid. The hysteresis area, energy storage modulus, and loss modulus of the 1% additive amount of liquid crystal emulsion were larger than those of the blank emulsion and the emulsions with 3% and 5% Sacha Inchi polypeptide, indicating greater thixotropy and stronger shear resistance. The hydrophilic amino acid residues of the peptide in the 1% additive amount of the emulsion were combined with the water phase, while the hydrophobic amino acid residues of the peptide entered the oil phase, which formed a viscoelastic film at the oil-water interface, so that the liquid crystal emulsion had a more stable gel network structure.

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    Coacervation of oxidized glutathione with a cationic surfactant and the application in dye removal
    Yue Zhang, Yu Liu, Li Zhao, Ce Wang, Baocai Xu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1423-1430.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.003
    Abstract1682)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (6082KB)(38)       Save

    Coacervation of oxidized glutathione (GSSG) and a cationic surfactant, didodecyldimethylammonium bromide (DDAB), was constructed mainly driven by the electrostatic and hydrophobic interactions. The pH-dependent coacervate of GSSG-DDAB (1∶4, mol/mol) was analyzed. Under acidic and neutral conditions, a turbid suspension of droplets is observed, and alkaline pH results in the phase separation of coacervates as the top phase. The coacervate phase exhibits good performance (extraction efficiency>85%) in extracting several dyes from water, including brilliant yellow, acid red 13, cresyl violet acetate, eriochrom blue SE, and 4-hydroxyazobenzene. The dyes are added into the suspension in acidic conditions. Then, the dyes are enriched and extracted along with the coacervates as the top phase when pH is adjusted to~10. Coacervation of GSSG with DDAB provides a simple approach to extract organic pollutants in wastewater treatment.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅹ) The stable, highly viscous, water-soluble microbial polysaccharides: xanthan gum
    Niya Lv, Yanshuang Zhang, Guimei Han, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1172-1180.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.004
    Abstract1617)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (6644KB)(38)       Save

    Xanthan gum is a kind of extracellular polysaccharides produced by xanthomonas. It is a heteropolysaccharide polymer with high molecular weight formed by a series of five-sugar residues repeating units. Xanthan gum and its derivatives are widely used in various industries such as daily-use chemical industry, food processing industry, pharmaceutical industry, water treatment, and oil exploitation, due to their excellent stability, thickening ability, emulsifying ability, suspensibility, rheological property, acid resistance, base resistance, heat resistance, salt resistance, and other fit properties. In this paper, the chemical structure, the main physicochemical properties, the production methods, and the modification technologies of xanthan gum, as well as the properties, the preparation, separation and purification methods of xanthan gum oligosaccharides are briefly presented. Furthermore, the application status of xanthan gum and its modified products, the current problems in xanthan gum production, and the future prospects for the development of xanthan gum are also mentioned in this paper.

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    Experimental study of non-aqueous foams stabilized with different surfactant aggregates
    Ziwei Zhang, Yongli Yan, Bingcheng He, Longlong Dou, Song Shi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1181-1190.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.005
    Abstract1543)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (6946KB)(43)       Save

    Non-aqueous foams have wide applications in cosmetics, porous materials, biomedicine, oil and gas development, etc. However, due to the low surface tension of non-aqueous solvents, they have difficulty in foaming and their foams usually have poor stability. Therefore, relevant field has been a difficult problem to overcome. Surfactant aggregates are widely used in related field due to their high density and ordered structure. In this work, different surfactant aggregates were prepared and characterized, in which sodium dodecyl sulfonate and sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate were used as the main agents, and formamide and decanol were used as the non-aqueous phase. Then their foaming ability and foam stability for non-aqueous solvents were observed. The results showed that all these surfactant aggregates were of layered liquid crystal structure, belonging to non-Newtonian fluids, which had shear-thinning rheological phenomenon. The higher the content of surfactant, the more stable the layered liquid crystal structure of the surfactant aggregates. The foam volume was first increased and then decreased with the increase of layered liquid crystal content. The foam-stabilizing ability of SDBS/decanol/formamide system was better than that of SDS/decanol/formamide system. When formamide was used as the non-aqueous phase and the layered liquid crystal content in the SDBS/decanol/formamide system was 60% (w/%), the foam life was more than 55 h. When the non-aqueous phase was decanol and the layered liquid crystal content in the SDBS/decanol/formamide system was 60% (w/%), the foam life lasted for more than 6 h.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅻ) Multifunctional acidic heteropolysaccharide: pectin
    Yadi Liu, Kaiyue Guo, Axiu Gao, Yejie Zhou, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1414-1422.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.002
    Abstract1384)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (8209KB)(40)       Save

    Pectin is a kind of natural hydrophilic colloid with complicated composition and structure, which has been abundantly found in the cells of higher plants. Pectin has good water solubility, stability, gelling ability and emulsifying ability, as well as safety and non-toxicity, good biocompatibility, biodegradability, and many excellent biological activities such as lowering cholesterol, anti-tumor, anti-oxidation, and lowering blood sugar. Moreover, both its physicochemical properties and functional performance can be further improved by physical, chemical and enzymatic treatments and compound modification upon the active functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, carboxyl groups and glycosidic bonds. Therefore, pectin has been widely used in many fields, including food industry and pharmaceutical industry. Furthermore, great application potential has emerged in daily-use chemical industry, functional materials, and biodegradable biological materials. In this review, the source, chemical structure, main physicochemical properties and functional characteristics of pectin were briefly introduced. The extraction methods, separation and purification technologies, and modification methods for pectin were also systematically presented. In addition, the situation of application as well as the current problems for pectin and its modified products were summarized. Finally, some of the directions of future research and development of pectin were pointed out.

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    Study on the regulatory effect of Mn2+ ions on the formation of worm-like micelles of α-olefin sulfonate/lauramidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine
    Pengju Chu, Xiaoling Yu, Keqi Hou, Wenhui Wang, Longjie Li, Jijiang Ge
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (6): 621-629.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.001
    Abstract1371)   HTML14)    PDF(pc) (6757KB)(55)       Save

    The worm-like micelles formed by the mixture of an anionic surfactant (sodium α-olefin sulfonate, AOS) and a zwitterionic surfactant (lauramidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine, LHSB) as induced by Mn2+ ions were studied. The influencing factors studied included the mass ratio between the two surfactants, the mass fraction of Mn2+, the mass fraction of surfactants, and the temperature. The results showed that, the viscosity of the surfactant solution first increased and then decreased as the mass ratio of AOS:LHSB was increased and the mass fraction of Mn2+ was increased. The zero-shear viscosity of the system exhibited an exponential increase with increasing mass fraction of surfactants. The viscosity measurement was conducted at 25 ℃. The maximum viscosity was obtained when the mass ratio of AOS:LHSB was 3:7, and the optimal Mn2+ content was 0.5% when the mass fraction of surfactants was 2% (the zero-shear viscosity at this optimal condition was measured to be 9 030.9 mPa·s). The morphology of the micelles in solution was observed using Cryo-TEM, revealing long worm-like micelles with a tight network structure and good linear viscoelasticity. The mass fraction of surfactants and the presence of Mn2+were found to have significant influence on the formation of worm-like micelles. This study could provide important additional information for the preparation of worm-like micelles using mixed anionic-zwitterionic surfactant system.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅺ)Highly branched, high concentration-low viscosity plant polysaccharides: arabic gum
    Yimo Zhao, Jialin Wang, Fang Wu, Haiping Xiong, Pengcheng Xue, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1298-1306.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.002
    Abstract1338)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (2066KB)(44)       Save

    Arabic gum is one kind of natural plant gum derived from Acacia sengal (L.) Willdenow and other related tree species, characterized by its highly branched structure and complex composition. Arabic gum possesses excellent water solubility, thickening property, emulsifying ability, and stability properties, as well as safe, non-toxic nature, good biocompatibility, and biodegradability. Moreover, both its physicochemical properties and functional performance can be further improved by conducting physical, chemical, enzymatic treatments and blending/composite processing with the active functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups and glycosidic bonds, in the arabic gum molecular structure. As a result, arabic gum, its modified products and composites have been widely used in various industries, including daily-use chemical industry, food processing industry, pharmaceutical industry, textile industry, printing and dyeing industry, ink industry, and functional materials manufacturing industry. In this paper, the name, source, chemical structure, main physicochemical properties and functional characteristics of arabic gum are briefly introduced. Its extraction methods and reprocessing techniques are also systematically presented. Furthermore, the application status of arabic gum and its modified products, its composites, as well as the main issues currently faced by them are together summarized. Meanwhile, some future research and development directions and prospects of arabic gum are properly pointed out.

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    Recombinant human calreticulin promotes hair regeneration in androgenetic alopecia mice
    Gaiying He, Shoubiao Wu, Shutao Liu, Dongdong Wei, Junsheng Cui, Yi Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1313-1319.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.004
    Abstract1331)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (2705KB)(40)       Save

    Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common type of hair loss and is usually caused by multiple factors. AGA is characterized by progressive miniaturization of hair follicles, shortened anagen phase, prolonged telogen phase, and the decrease of hair density. We studied the role of recombinant human calreticulin (rh-CRT) in promoting hair regeneration in androgenetic alopecia (AGA) mice. Hair regeneration was assessed by observing the overall and local appearance of the hair at different time points, the melanin index of the skin was observed by color tester, the change of hair diameter was detected by dermatoscopy, the change of the hair cuticle was studied by scanning electron microscopy, and the thickness of the skin and the dermal white adipose, and the number of hair follicles were further observed by HE staining. The results reveal that rh-CRT promotes hair regeneration, increases melanin index, significantly improves the diameters of coarse and fine hairs in AGA mice, and repairs the damaged hair cuticle induced by testosterone(TES). In addition, it is demonstrated that rh-CRT significantly promotes the number of hair follicles and the thickness of the skin and dermal white adipose in AGA mice. The results suggest that rh-CRT promotes the regeneration of hair in AGA mice, which has important application value in hair regeneration products.

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    Effects of oil on the formation and stability of aqueous foam
    Fan Bai, Yongli Yan, Jiangbo Liu, Ayong Yan, Bingcheng He
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (6): 630-639.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.002
    Abstract1232)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (8636KB)(66)       Save

    Oil-water miscible foams have been widely used in daily cosmetics, chemical industry, petroleum industry, etc., but the current reports on oil-water miscible foams mostly focus on the influences of external factors such as surfactants, temperature, pH and salinity on the stability of oil-water miscible foams. The effects of oil type and oil content on the formation and stability of aqueous foams have not been systematically studied. In this work, foaming experiments were conducted by changing the oil type and oil-water volume ratio. The formation and stability mechanisms of aqueous foam influencing by oil were explored by analyzing the foam volume, the half-life of foam drainage, the decay rate of foam, the microscopic particle size of foam, the surface tension of oil phase and the oil-water interfacial tension. The results were as follows: with the increase of carbon chain length of oil, the foaming property of aqueous foam was decreased; the foam stability increased with the increase of surface tension of oil; the oil-water volume ratio had important influence on the formation and stability of aqueous foam. At low oil-water volume ratio, foam lamellas were arranged closely, forming bubbles of different size. Moreover, due to the mutual extrusion between the bubbles, the microstructure morphology was chaotic and irregular. With the increase of oil-water volume ratio, the foam particle size became smaller and more uniform, and the foam structure became denser, making the foam more stable.

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    Research progress of extraction and isolation of natural plant polysaccharides and their applications in skin care
    Hui Liu, Sijia Yang, Hankun Ren, Zhaohui Qu, Libo Zheng, Shujing Li
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (6): 708-717.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.012
    Abstract1197)   HTML3)    PDF(pc) (9074KB)(62)       Save

    Plant polysaccharides are natural polymers extracted from various parts of plants, which are composed of ten or more monosaccharide units connected with glycosidic bonds. In recent years, their applications in skin care have attracted more and more attention due to the rich biological activity, low cytotoxicity, safety, and being skin-friendly. The biological activities of polysaccharides closely correlate with their structure, and different techniques of extraction and purification could have influence on the structure of polysaccharides. Therefore, in this review, the relevant studies on plant polysaccharides in recent years have been summarized, including the extraction, isolation and purification processes of plant polysaccharides, and the applications in skin care such as moisturizing and hydrating, skin whitening and antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. This review can provide theoretical support for application of plant polysaccharides in the development of cosmetics.

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    Synthesis and properties of narrow-distribution ethoxylate of aliphatic amine
    Yu Lang, Tao Geng, Jingjie Zhou, Jinyuan Sun, Huibin Liang, Chunyu Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (6): 640-647.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.003
    Abstract1149)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (6112KB)(30)       Save

    Dodecylamine polyoxyethylene ether (DAEO5) was synthesized by ethoxylation of dodecyl amine with ethylene oxide (EO) using catalysts KOH, SnCl4, and a weakly basic heterogeneous catalyst (NHGC) made by our laboratory. The total EO number in the molecular structure of DAEO5 was 5. According to the literature, the type of catalysts directly affects the molecular weight distribution of the product. Therefore, those DAEO5 products prepared with different catalytic systems were analyzed, as well as their molecular weight distribution, surface tension of aqueous solutions, physicochemical properties, and application performance. The results showed that, the DAEO5 prepared with NHGC had narrower distribution and lower content of free amine than those prepared with conventional catalysts of ethoxylation, and its viscosity and cloud point in aqueous solution were higher than those of other products. The ∆Gmic and ∆Gmic of DAEO5 synthesized using different catalytic systems were all negative, indicating that DAEO5 could spontaneously form micelles and adsorption layer in water. The wetting and emulsifying properties of the product synthesized with NHGC were better, and its wetting time was much shorter than those products synthesized using KOH and SnCl4 as catalysts. The detergency of products synthesized with different catalysts did not differ much, but their detergency was different for carbon black stained cloth and sebum stained cloth, which was significantly better for carbon black stained cloth than for sebum stained cloth.

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    Research progress on the stabilization of oil-water miscible foams
    Xudong Fang, Yongli Yan, Jiangbo Liu, Ayong Yan, Bingcheng He
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (6): 698-707.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.011
    Abstract1064)   HTML6)    PDF(pc) (9021KB)(54)       Save

    Oil-water miscible foam is a special kind of foam system, and the study of its stabilization mechanism has become more and more important due to its wide application in the fields of chemical industry, food, and pharmaceuticals. Based on the latest research progress, the factors affecting the stability of oil-water miscible foams have been reviewed, including surface active substances, oil phase, etc., and the mechanisms of their effects on the foaming performance and stability of oil-water miscible foams have also been summarized. The effects of the type and content of oils on the stabilization of oil-water miscible foams are focused on. Finally, the effects of temperature, degree of mineralization and different combinations of surfactants/particles/oils on the stabilization of oil-water miscible foams are introduced. Some future research directions and the development of more effective foam stabilization methods using novel materials and nanoparticle technologies are also proposed, which are of great significance for deeper understanding of the stabilization mechanisms of oil-water miscible foams, the optimization of foam properties, the development of new applications, and the solutions to the problems in related fields.

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    Effects of PFOA on osteoblastic bone formation and osteoclastic bone resorption
    Liming Xue, Yuanjie Lin, Yu’e Jin, Jiale Xu, Dasheng Lu, Guoquan Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (6): 648-655.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.004
    Abstract1046)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (5993KB)(37)       Save

    Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) exposure level in human is negatively correlated with bone density according to the epidemiological research. Our study is aim to investigate the effects and mechanisms of PFOA on osteoblastic bone formation and osteoclastic bone resorption. Primary osteoblasts were isolated from the calvaria of newborn rats, and the cell proliferation, alkaline phosphatase (ALP) activity, and bone nodule formation were detected after 1, 10, and 100 μmol/L PFOA treateatment for 24 h.The osteoclasts model were differentiation from bone marrow monocyte, which induced by Macrophage colony-stimulating factor (M-CSF) and Nuclear factor κB receptor-activating factor ligand (RANKL), and the effects on cell viability, anti-tartaric acid phosphatase (TRAP) activity, and bone resorption pit formation were investigated. The expression of OPG and RANKL proteins in osteoblasts were conducted by Western blot. The results show that PFOA at the concentration of 1 μmol/L and 10 μmol/L can promote osteoblast proliferation, but has no effect on ALP activity and bone nodule formation. 100 μmol/L PFOA can significantly inhibit cell proliferation, ALP activity, and bone nodule formation, as well as the proportion of OPG/RANKL protein expression. PFOA has no effect on osteoclast viability, and 10 μmol/L and 100 μmol/L PFOA can significantly inhibit the TRAP activity and the area of bone resorption pits. The conclusion can be draw that high concentration of PFOA can inhibit the bone formation of osteoblasts by suppressing WNT pathway and promote osteoclast bone resorption by inhibiting the OPG/RANKL/RANK pathway.

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    Efficacy assessment for skin microecology/microbiome-modulating cosmetics
    Yumei Zheng, Rong Hu, Wenhai Wu, Liya Song, Wen Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1382-1390.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.013
    Abstract955)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1139KB)(949)       Save

    The in vitro and in vivo evaluation methods of microecological skin care products were summarized. Cosmetics can regulate skin microecological balance by directly changing the number, growth metabolism, community structure, and population effect of skin microorganisms, or by regulating skin immune response and improving skin physiological function. The number, growth and metabolism level, population effect of skin microorganisms and skin immune response status are often evaluated by in vitro method. Skin microbial diversity, community structure, and skin physiological state are often tested by human methods, combined with high-throughput sequencing technologies such as 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing, ITS amplicon sequencing, and shotgun metagenomic sequencing. Different evaluation methods have different dimensions and advantages. The in vitro method is more targeted and the test conditions are easy to control, but the model is too simple and lack of activity. In contrast, clinical trials are more holistic and in line with real use scenarios, but it is difficult to qualitative analyze the complex causal relationship among individuals, product use and microbiome changes. In the process of efficacy evaluation, the combination of in vitro and in vivo can complement the limitations of different evaluation methods to a certain extent, and can provide a more complete evidence chain for the efficacy evaluation of products.

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    Study on the drainage behavior of non-aqueous foams stabilized by nano-silica particles
    Tingting Gao, Yongli Yan, Suiwang Zhang, Yu Chen, Bingcheng He
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 751-758.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.001
    Abstract914)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (2467KB)(58)       Save

    Non-aqueous foams have a wide range of applications in petrochemical industry, food industry, daily chemical industry and biomedical industry. However, the low surface tension and low dielectric constant of non-aqueous solvents lead to the difficulty in forming stable foams. The unique advantages of nano-silica particles in foaming and foam stabilization are getting more and more attention. In this work, the surface wettability of 14 nm nano-silica particles was modified with dichlorodimethylsilane (DCDMS). The effects of wettability of these nano-silica particles on the drainage behaviors of several non-aqueous foams were studied. It was found that, with the increase of the polarity of non-aqueous solvents, the foaming performance showed a gradually increasing trend. The drainage process for non-aqueous foam could be divided into three stages: The initial stage, the middle stage, and the end stage. With the increase of the surface wettability of nano-silica particles, the half-life of foam was first increased and then decreased. The half-life of foams of highly polar solvents could reach 45 min, and the half-life of foams of moderately polar solvents could reach 60 min. Under optical microscope, it was observed that with drainage, the bubble size of foams gradually increased and the shape gradually became polygonal.

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    Study on the performance of extended surfactants in reducing interfacial tension under seawater conditions
    Binlin Pan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 759-766.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.002
    Abstract845)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (1337KB)(71)       Save

    The aim of this work was to systematically explore the relationship between the structure of extended surfactants and their abilities in reducing interfacial tension (IFT) under seawater conditions. Those extended surfactants with different structures were selected to test IFT. The effects of hydrophobic alkyl chain length, alkyl branching, and numbers of oxypropylene (PO) and oxyethylene (EO) groups on the ability of reducing IFT were investigated. The results showed that by increasing the length of the alkyl chain and the branching of the hydrophobic group, the effectiveness in reduction of IFT was small, which could not achieve the ultra-low level (<10-2 mN/m). In contrast, the PO number was a key factor affecting the IFTs of the extended surfactant solutions against hydrocarbons and crude oil. The IFT could be reduced to the magnitude order of 10-3 mN/m at appropriate hydrophilic-lipophilic balance by spirally curling the long PO segment and thus increasing the hydrophobic group size. The increase of EO groups lead to incompact arrangement of molecules at the interface, resulting in the increase of IFT. The competitive adsorption of crude oil components at the interface was unfavorable to the decrease of interfacial tension. The increase of PO number lead to the gradual decrease of IFT against crude oil. This extended surfactant showed high interfacial activity under seawater conditions, which was suitable for chemical flooding to enhance oil recovery in offshore reservoirs.

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    Aggregation and dissolution behavior of silver nanoparticles in laundry wastewater: A review
    Xiujun Gu, Ping Luo, Chengjian Cai, Dejun Yang, Jiachao Jiang, Jing Yang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 844-852.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.012
    Abstract751)   HTML4)    PDF(pc) (1275KB)(38)       Save

    Silver nanoparticles have been widely used in textiles because of excellent antibacterial properties to inhibit the growth of bacteria and pathogenic microorganisms. However, the massive use of silver nanoparticles can also cause harm to the ecological environment. During the textile washing process, a large amount of silver nanoparticles will be released and enter the laundry wastewater. The washing conditions, including detergents, light, pH, and ionic strength, can affect the aggregation and dissolution behavior of silver nanoparticles, thereby affecting subsequent environmental processes and negatively affecting aquatic organisms and ecosystems. In this review, relevant domestic and foreign research literature were summarized to explore the effects of different washing conditions on the aggregation and dissolution behavior of silver nanoparticles, and to reduce the environmental risks brought by silver nanoparticles. The characteristics of laundry wastewater were summarized. Based on the characteristics of water quality, the influences of different washing conditions on the aggregation and dissolution behavior of silver nanoparticles in laundry wastewater were summarized. The single or combined effects and mechanisms of detergent types, light, pH, ionic strength and other washing conditions in laundry wastewater on the aggregation and dissolution behavior of silver nanoparticles were discussed. According to the mechanism, some suggestions were put forward to reduce the biological toxicity of silver nanoparticles, including reducing the release of silver nanoparticles during washing, and optimizing the treatment of laundry wastewater. Finally, the future research direction of silver nanoparticles in laundry wastewater was prospected, and the follow-up research suggestions were put forward. This review could provide a reference for further research on the migration and transformation of silver nanoparticles in laundry wastewater or other polluted water bodies, and also provide a way to reduce the release of silver nanoparticles in the washing process and control the pollution caused by silver nanoparticles.

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    Effects of oil type on the stability and rheological properties of W/O Pickering emulsions
    Juyuan Zhang,Xiumei Tai,Huimin Liu,Xiaoyuan Ma,Xu Gao,Yi Luo
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 879-886.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.001
    Abstract736)   HTML35)    PDF(pc) (2395KB)(85)       Save

    Using dimethylsilylated silica as emulsifier, W/O Pickering emulsions were prepared by homogeneous emulsification. The kinds of oils, rheological modifiers and their effects on the stability and rheological properties of the W/O Pickering emulsions were studied. The results showed that, compared with the nonpolar oil, the W/O Pickering emulsion prepared with polar oil had smaller droplets and better stability, e.g., the emulsion prepared with jojoba oil had narrow particle size distribution, uniform shape and good stability. With the addition of rheological modifier, the particle size of the emulsion decreased to a certain extent, and the stability at room temperature and at low temperature was both slightly increased. For different oils, the rheological modifier which was similar to the oil in molecular structure had better effects in the reduction of particle size and the improvement of stability. All these W/O Pickering emulsions prepared with different oils were non-Newtonian fluids. With the increase of shear rate, the viscosity of the emulsions decreased, and the elastic modulus (G') of all emulsions was higher than viscous modulus (G"). All the emulsions were gel emulsions, and the linear viscoelastic region was 0.001%-0.100%. With the addition of rheological modifier, the viscosity of the emulsion increased and the shear thinning phenomenon was basically unchanged, but the linear viscoelastic region was enlarged, which might be related to the change of emulsion particle size and oil-water interfacial energy.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅶ)Branched heteroglycan anionic polysaccharides: gum tragacanth
    Yejie Zhou, Yadi Liu, Yimo Zhao, Xiaotong Sun, Yu Gao, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 767-776.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.003
    Abstract730)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (2127KB)(46)       Save

    Gum tragacanth is a kind of polysaccharide extracted from natural herbal plant astragalus membranaceus, which is distinguished by its chemical stability, non-teratogenicity, non-immunogenicity, biodegradability, biocompatibility and natural non-toxicity. Moreover its physical and chemical properties can be significantly improved, and its application performance can be significantly enhanced through molecular modification, chemical cross-linking, graft copolymerization and other modification treatments by utilizing the active functional groups in its molecular structure, such as hydroxyl group, carboxyl group and glycosidic bond. As a result, gum tragacanth and its modified products have been widely used not only in the field of medicine, but also in the fields of food processing, water treatment, medical materials and daily chemical products. In this paper, the source, composition and structure, the main physicochemical properties and functions of gum tragacanth, the key extraction and purification technologies, as well as some recent application examples of gum tragacanth in the above fields are briefly presented. Additionally, the existing challenges and future prospects of research and development of gum tragacanth and its modified derivatives are also highlighted in this paper.

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    Study on the reparative effects of oxymatrine on impaired skin barrier function in mice
    Zhaoyi Liu, Xinyu Chen, Yan Wang, Xue Li, Ruoxi Guo, Han Zhang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 777-783.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.004
    Abstract702)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1928KB)(53)       Save

    This study investigates the reparative effects of oxymatrine (OMT) cream on the skin barrier function in mice. Seventy male ICR mice were randomly divided into seven groups. Except for the normal group, mechanical damage was induced using tape-stripping to create a mouse model of impaired skin barrier function. Following model induction, continuous topical administration of OMT was administered for 5 days, during which time photographs were taken, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured in the model area. After completing the experiment, morphological changes in skin tissue were observed using Hematoxylin and Eosin (HE) staining. Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) was used to determine the levels of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) and interleukin (IL)-8 in skin tissue. Real-time quantitative PCR (RT-qPCR) was used to assess the expression levels of tight junction protein (ZO-1), filaggrin (FLG), and aquaporin 3 (AQP3) mRNA. Additionally, Western blot analysis was performed to measure the expression levels of occludin (OCC), FLG, and claudin-1. The results indicated that all OMT dosage groups exhibited a reduction in skin TEWL, alleviation of inflammatory infiltration, and improvement in skin pathological conditions compared to the model group. Moreover, the high-dosage group showed a significant decrease in the levels of inflammatory factors such as TNF-α (P<0.05), and a significant increase in the expression of ZO-1, FLG mRNA, OCC, FLG, and Claudin (P<0.05). OMT was found to possess reparative effects on skin barrier function, with its mechanism may be associated with the inhibition of inflammatory factors and the upregulation of barrier-related protein expression.

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    Study on the emulsion-breaking performance of cross-linked polyether demulsifiers for the emulsion produced by surfactant/polymer flooding in Shengli oilfield
    Limei Sun, Haifeng He, Shenfa An, Zhiyong Luan, Peng Sun, Yang Wang, Feng Yan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (7): 795-802.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.07.006
    Abstract692)   HTML2)    PDF(pc) (1936KB)(35)       Save

    In view of the difficulties in breaking the emulsion produced by surfactant/polymer flooding in Shengli oilfield, the cross-linked polyether demulsifiers D-BP, D-TA and D-PA were prepared by cross-linking polyether demulsifiers with dewatering function for water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion and polyether demulsifier with oil-removal function for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. The interfacial activities of the three cross-linked polyether demulsifiers were investigated. Their effects on the oil-water interfacial film of emulsions were examined, and their emulsion-breaking effects on W/O and O/W emulsions were explored. The results showed that among the three cross-linked polyether demulsifiers, D-PA with hyperbranched structure had the strongest adsorption at the oil-water interface and showed the highest interfacial activity. D-PA had the greatest effect on the oil-water interfacial film formed by the kerosene-diluted crude oil and produced water. The new film formed after D-PA adsorption at the oil-water interface had the lowest interfacial dilatational modulus. The dewatering rate of W/O emulsion by D-PA was 94.4%, and the oil removal rate for O/W emulsion from the same oilfield reached 98.1%. More importantly, the D-PA demulsifier was capable of simultaneously treating complex emulsions containing W/O and O/W types. The comprehensive dewatering rate by D-PA for the emulsion produced by surfactant/polymer flooding containing W/O and O/W was above 98%, and the oil content of the effluent after treated was less than 30 mg/L. The retention rate of polymer (HPAM) reached 94.8%, and the oil-water interface was neat and without emulsified intermediate layer.

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    Aggregation behavior of mixed systems of imidazolium-based ionic liquid and sodium octanesulfonate
    Xueyan Zhao,Jingyi Huang,Ruijie Xiao,Guirong Cao
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 887-894.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.002
    Abstract654)   HTML11)    PDF(pc) (1450KB)(49)       Save

    Two mixed systems consisting of an anionic surfactant and a cationic surface-active ionic liquid were studied. The mixture of sodium octanesulfonate (SOS) and 1-decyl-3-methylimidazolium bromide ([C10mim]Br), and the mixture of SOS and 1-tetradecyl-3-methylimidazolium bromide ([C14mim]Br), were both investigated using surface tension measurement. The parameters, such as critical micelle concentration (cmc), surface tension at cmc (γcmc), surface pressure at cmc (Πcmc), maximum surface excess (Γmax) and minimum area per molecule (Amin), were obtained. The mixed micellar parameters including micellar mole fraction (X1m), micellar interaction parameters (βm) and activity coefficients (f1m and f2m) were calculated by applying Rubingh’s regular solution theory. The calculated parameters confirmed that there were strong synergy in all these mixed systems, and the interaction of SOS with [C14mim]Br was stronger than that with [C10mim]Br. Thermodynamic parameters for mixed monolayers and mixed micelles were calculated and discussed, which indicated that the mixed micelles were spontaneously formed and were thermodynamically stable systems. Turbidity measurement was conducted using spectrophotometry. The phase diagrams were plotted for each system based on visual observations and absorbance values. The mixed systems of SOS/[C10mim]Br and SOS/[C14mim]Br all exhibited three concentration regions: a low-concentration homogeneous solution region, a two-phase region, and a high-concentration homogeneous solution region.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅷ)High-viscosity and versatile natural galactomannan: guar gum
    Xiaotong Sun,Yejie Zhou,Yatong Duan,Yadi Liu,Tingyu Zhang,Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 895-902.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.003
    Abstract577)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (1243KB)(45)       Save

    Guar gum is a kind of natural galactomannan extracted from the endosperm of seeds of guar beans. It has excellent water solubility thickening, gelling, and film-forming properties, as well as non-toxicity, good biocompatibility, and biodegradability. Moreover, its physical and chemical properties can be significantly improved and its application performance can be efficiently enhanced through molecular modification, chemical cross-linking, graft copolymerization, oxidation, and other modification treatments by reacting with the hydroxyl groups and glycosidic bonds in its molecular structure. Therefore, guar gum and its modified products have been found wide applications in industrial fields such as daily chemicals, papermaking, food processing, oil exploitation, biomedicine and water treatment. In this review, the name, source, chemical structure, main physicochemical properties and functions of guar gum along with its extraction technologies and modification methods were briefly presented. The applications of guar gum and its modified products, and the current challenges as well as the future research directions of these materials were also discussed.

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    A preliminary study on the mechanism of oily sensitive skin and intervention care
    Xinjue Kuang,Yuanyuan Fu,Xiancai Chen,Yong Chen,Youting Liu,Fan Yi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 988-996.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.014
    Abstract562)   HTML13)    PDF(pc) (1734KB)(83)       Save

    With the prevalence of modern unhealthy lifestyle habits and the worsening of environmental pollution, the occurrence of oily sensitive skin has been increasing. However, the exact cause is still not completely understood. In this paper, we review the definition and characteristics of oily sensitive skin. We also provide an overview of its possible mechanisms, which include excessive sebaceous gland secretion, reduced epidermal barrier function, skin microecological imbalance, inflammatory response, and neurological and vascular hyperreactivity. Furthermore, we analyze the intrinsic connection between these different mechanisms in depth. In response to these mechanisms, this article discusses a series of recommendations for caring for oily sensitive skin. It highlights the differences in skincare compared to dry sensitive skin, emphasizes the importance of choosing effective skincare products, and suggests making adjustments to lifestyle habits. These recommendations aim to improve the quality of life for patients and provide valuable references for practitioners in the field.

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