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    Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (XⅢ)Consumer use testing
    LIU Wei-Yi,ZHOU Lin,ZHAO Hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (6): 485-490.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.002
    Abstract5054)   HTML202)    PDF(pc) (965KB)(2128)       Save

    Cosmetic efficacy claims should have a scientific basis. Efficacy evaluation is one of the very important aspects for cosmetics, including human-body efficacy evaluation, laboratory test and consumer use test. Herein, relevant requirements for consumers to use test methods in “Cosmetics Efficacy Claim Evaluation Standards” have been introduced. Procedures of consumer use testing include asking questions, clarifying the required information, designing information collection methods, organizing and implementing data collection, sorting and analyzing data, reporting and interpreting survey results, etc. The preparation stage of consumer test needs to determine the selection and exclusion criteria of consumers, the number of consumers, complete the product safety evaluation, and determine the test plan. According to the purpose, the test method can be divided into qualitative test and quantitative test. According to the method, it can be divided into interview, questionnaire test and consumer diary. Data analysis methods can be divided into descriptive statistical analysis, regression analysis, and correlation analysis. Among them, methods of descriptive analysis are the most widely used, using general data, tabulation and graphs to make trend analysis, frequency analysis and dispersion degree analysis, etc. Finally, the functions, writing requirements and precautions of the report of consumer use testing, have been described, which can provide reference for the design of consumer use testing in cosmetic efficacy evaluation. In the future, consumer use testing will be closely linked with enterprises. It is an easy, efficient, and cost-effective testing method that is worthy of widespread adoption. In addition, it can also provide companies with more scientific and practical consumer information, and it can help companies develop markets, win consumers, and improve consumption levels, and avoid the blindness of corporate production. However, because there is no precise instrument for qualitative measurement, the data may be affected by consumer subjective factors, resulting in data that are not as objective as data from human-body efficacy evaluation test or laboratory test. To ensure the accuracy of the data to the greatest extent, it is necessary to grasp the selection of subjects, sample size, information collection method, organization and implementation of the experiment, statistical analysis of data, interpretation of results, etc. Thus it can provide scientific support for cosmetic efficacy claims and provide a reliable basis for product development and market positioning.

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    Do we need to regard PFAS as evil? Our points of view
    XING Hang,DOU Zeng-pei,XIAO Zi-bing,XIAO Jin-xin
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (1): 49-53.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.009
    Abstract4484)   HTML79)    PDF(pc) (744KB)(1238)       Save

    The ubiquitous distribution of PFOS and PFOA in the globe and biota has induced the criticism from environmental scientists and toxicologists. The international community has established laws and supervision measures to eliminate PFOS and PFOA. Now some scholars begin to fire at the whole class of PFAS (per-,polyfluoroalkyl substances) , and the public argues intensely (fear arise from being not understood). Not all PFAS are verified with health risk, but they are surely blamed by being too stable and thus too difficult to degrade. Recently, a paper titled “How to say goodbye to PFAS” is published on the website of the world’s most influential news magazine in the field of chemical industry named Chemical & Engineering News (C&EN). Many of the view points therein reflect the prevailing opinion, which is against “one-size-fits-all”, that specific substances should be treated differently according to their necessity and substitutability, and that the unchecked growth in production and application of PFAS should be turned around, and that substitutes should be actively pursued. We agree with the thought of this paper, but also have objections mainly addressed on the different view angle and the standard of classification. The author of that paper has focused on the views of environmentalists, while we are researchers and technology developers of PFAS, as well as a manufacturer of some narrow-category PFAS products; the author of that paper takes the perspective of developed countries, while we consider that developing countries should weigh well the way of categorization more carefully and deeply before action. China should positively participate in this historical argument of standard-setting, take into account our own actual conditions, and work out a suitable implementation plan, particularly, do not blindly follow or go ahead radically and rashly.

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    Determination of transdermal permeation of sunscreen by confocal Raman spectroscopy and its application
    Yu Xie, Shaofeng Zhang, Wucheng Yang, Jiaying Xie, Ruifang Fan, Jianhua Tan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1133-1139.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.015
    Abstract3143)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (1657KB)(45)       Save

    Based on laser confocal Raman spectroscopy technology, a real-time in vivo testing method for the depth distribution and transdermal penetration of sunscreen in the stratum corneum of the skin was established using a skin component analyzer combined with multivariate linear regression analysis. Using volunteers’ arms as the experimental subject, the consistency of transdermal penetration ability of three common sunscreen agents, OMC, DBHB, and EHT, was tested and analyzed in different skin regions of the arm. And the transdermal penetration of the sunscreen agents in sunscreen lotions with different formulation was compared. The results indicate that the relative standard deviation of the skin penetration of sunscreen in different areas on the inner side of the arm is less than 15%, indicating that the method is suitable for comparison of the skin penetration of different sunscreen products. After one hour of skin penetration, it is found that the transdermal penetration of the three sunscreen agents in the skin is reduced by about 60%, and the penetration depth of EHT is relatively shallow, when the in oil-in-water sunscreen compared to the nano emulsion sunscreen. This method has been effectively applied in the study of transdermal penetration of sunscreen agents, and can provide methodological references for transdermal absorption of cosmetics.

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    Study on the silicon dioxide encapsulation for the enhancement of vitamin C stability
    Meiling Shi, Juanbo Chen, Hao Li, Yuanqin Huang, Qiqing Zhang, Sa Zeng, Tao Meng
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1015-1022.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.001
    Abstract3137)   HTML15)    PDF(pc) (2190KB)(55)       Save

    To improve the stability of vitamin C(Vc) in cosmetics, Vc was coated with silica dioxide (Vc@SiO2), modified by silane (Vc@s-SiO2) and dispersed in decanoyl/octanoyl-glycerides (GTCC) oil phase system. The experimental results show that the encapsulation rate and drug loading rate are 68.2% and 13.6%, respectively, when Vc is encapsulated into silica dioxide. After modification, the surface of Vc@s-SiO2 is hydrophobic and the contact angle increases from 33.6° to 130.7°. When Vc is maintained at 50 ℃ or exposed to ultraviolet light, Vc@s-SiO2 exhibits an increase in antioxidant activity by 11.4 times and 27.7 times, respectively, compared to free Vc. This study reveals that silica dioxide coated Vc and dispersed in GTCC can isolate the adverse factors such as water oxygen, reduce the activity loss and improve the stability of Vc.

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    Corrosion-inhibiting effects of triazinyl Gemini surfactants on carbon steel in aqueous solution containing 0.5 mol/L H2SO4
    Mengying Yuan, Dehua Wang, Huikai Nan, Tao Geng, Hongyi Liu, Hailin Zhu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1145-1154.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.001
    Abstract2802)   HTML18)    PDF(pc) (7806KB)(56)       Save

    The triazinyl Gemini surfactants with different hydrophobic chain lengths (Cm-2-Cm, m=6, 8, 12) were synthesized by using cyanuric chloride, hexylamine/octylamine/dodecylamine, ethylenediamine,N, N-dimethyl-1, 3-propanediamine and bromoethane as raw materials. The molecular structure was characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and ESI-MS. The surface activities of the three triazinyl Gemini surfactants (C6-2-C6, C8-2-C8 and C12-2-C12) were investigated by surface tension method. Their corrosion-inhibition properties on 45# carbon steel in 0.5 mol/L H2SO4 were studied by static weight loss method, electrochemical impedance spectroscopy, potentiodynamic polarization and quantum chemistry. The results showed that, when the carbon number of hydrophobic chain was increased from 6 to 12, the critical micelle concentration (cmc) of the triazinyl Gemini surfactant was decreased from 0.059 mmol/L to 0.013 mmol/L, and meanwhile the pc20 value was increased from 1.23 to 1.89. The results of electrochemical impedance showed that, the corrosion inhibition efficiency increased with the increase of carbon number of hydrophobic chain for the surfactants at the same concentration. The inhibition efficiency could reach 95.03% for 45# carbon steel in 0.5 mol/L H2SO4 when adding 0.2 mmol/L C12-2-C12. The results of potentiodynamic polarization showed that the three surfactants were mixed corrosion inhibitors which mainly inhibited the cathode. These three triazinyl Gemini surfactants could effectively adsorb on the carbon steel surface, as shown by the results of quantum chemical calculation.

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    “Jelly” phenomenon rheology study and improvement in shampoo system
    Liang Yihuan,Du Jing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (9): 920-929.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.002
    Abstract2719)   HTML50)    PDF(pc) (1020KB)(413)       Save

    “Jelly” phenomenon of two combined surfactant systems (SLES+CAPB and LS+CAPB) within temperature range of 0 ℃ to 40 ℃ were studied via two types of dynamic rheology tests, temperature sweep and frequency sweep. The results show that the phenomenon is mainly caused by the mechanism of wormlike micelles self-thickening structure. They both happen to appear in SLES+CAPB bases and LS+CAPB bases. The gelation range demonstrated by dynamic temperature constant frequency sweep appears in the systems which generates capability to form wormlike micelles. And the addition of Versathix (PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide) can intensify the phenomenon because its anchor chemical structure helps to build up the 3D network in between wormlike micelles and to consolidate its entangled transient interspace micellar structure. The systems with wormlike micelles can be verified by dynamic frequency constant temperature sweep and draw the graph of ‘Cole-Cole’ curve with the result of Maxwell trend. All over the trials, viscosity of SLES+CAPB systems could be thickened by sodium chloride with salt shielding effect to form wormlike micelles self-thickening structure. However, viscosity of LS+CAPB system can only form wormlike micelles with a certain low pH range. On the other hand, systems which can only form spherical micelles do not show gelation range according to temperature sweep results, even in those systems using a large use level of Versathix. The systems containing spherical micelles thickened by Versathix show Maxwell trend in ‘Cole-Cole’ curve transferred from the results of dynamic frequency constant temperature sweep as well. This is due to the network effect provided by the thickener. The microstructural difference of wormlike micelles and Versathix thickening systems were confirmed via characterization with Cryo-TEM images. In shampoo formulations, applying 0.5% use level of emollients with good solubilities may help to reduce “jelly” phenomenon during low temperature condition. However, some of those emollients may influence on viscosity at room temperature. According to the study results, Cromollient SCE (Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate) out of other ingredients can help to reduce this phenomenon with practical applying significance. Cromollient SCE does not influence much on system viscosity within room temperature range. And it can keep good clarity even using in surfactant systems. In addition, this ingredient can work as hair conditioning agent and help to reduce irritation mitigation in surfactant-based systems with additional benefits.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅸ)The soluble, stable, multi-functional natural polysaccharide gum: fenugreek gum
    Yu Gao, Yejie Zhou, Yuanming Li, Qiyuan Liu, Yadi Liu, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1023-1029.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.002
    Abstract2643)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (1152KB)(38)       Save

    Fenugreek gum (FG) is one kind of water-soluble natural polysaccharides extracted from the endosperm of fenugreek legumes. It has appropriate physical and chemical properties, such as water solubility, water binding capacity, thickening ability, thermal stability, emulsifying ability, film-forming property, as well as salutary pharmacological actions like hypoglycemic activity, antihyperlipidemic effect, and antioxgenation property. Moreover, its physical, chemical properties and application performance can be significantly improved by physical modification, chemical modification, blending modification and enzymatic modification. Therefore, fenugreek gum has been gained more and more attention in many fields, including daily-use chemical industry, food processing industry, pharmaceutical industry, and oil recovery. In this paper, the name, extraction source, chemical structure, the main physicochemical properties of fenugreek gum along with its extraction and purification technologies, common modification methods are briefly presented. Furthermore, the application areas of fenugreek gum and its modified products, and the current challenges faced in its development, as well as the future research direction and prospects for the development of fenugreek gum are also discussed in this paper.

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    Skin care efficacy study of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level
    Jian Wang, Yuhui Fan, Danfeng Li, Ningwen Cheng, Ling Li, Yufeng Yu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1030-1038.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.003
    Abstract2507)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (1489KB)(90)       Save

    Studying the skin care efficacy of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level. The stability of the recombinant humanized collagen was first analyzed by treating at different temperatures, then its skincare efficacy based on in vitro level was evaluated by detecting the inhibition rate of elastase, the inhibition rate of collagenase, the protein content of type I collagen in human fibroblasts, the inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) with human keratinocytes, and the effects of the recombinant humanized collagen on the expression of hyaluronic acid (HA), filaggrin (FLG) and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) in keratinocytes. The results showed that recombinant humanized collagen was able to maintain stability at temperatures below 70 ℃. With regard to its skincare efficacy, recombinant humanized collagen could inhibit elastase and collagenase activities and promote the increase of type I collagen content in human fibroblasts. It also showed good inhibition of ROS in keratinocytes in vitro and could increase the expression of HA, FLG, and TGM1 in keratinocytes. In short, the recombinant humanized collagen exhibited a favourable skin care effect in vitro level. This study proved that it has potential firming, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and repairing efficacy, and is a valuable cosmetic raw material.

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    Study on the efficacy and mechanism of an amino acid combination in hair care
    Jiayi Fan, Wenshen Yu, Marina Bian, Zoe Yue, Jing Wang, Kuan Chang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1059-1068.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.006
    Abstract2480)   HTML12)    PDF(pc) (1856KB)(90)       Save

    The effect of a mixture of amino acids in hair care was studied. The repair effect of this raw material on hair was evaluated by stretching test and combing test. The experimental results showed that, the amino acid combination could increase the tension in the yield zone by 29.4% and reduce the combing work of hair by 22.4% (dry combing) and 18.1% (wet combing). According to the results of spectral characterization, fluorescent penetration test and stress relaxation test, it could be concluded that the amino acid combination could repair the broken bonds by permeating into the hair and thus achieve the effect of toughening, and make the hair lipid transfer to the hair surface, which lead to a repairing effect on the hair surface and improved the hair combability. In particular, it had significant repair effect on the damaged hair caused by perm and hair coloring.

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    Research and evaluation the performance of MQ-type silicone resin
    Jieying He, Jiajing Cai, Feifei Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1078-1085.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.008
    Abstract2430)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (1924KB)(48)       Save

    MQ silicone resin is the copolymerization product of tetraalkoxysilane (Q unit) and trimethylethoxysilane (M unit). It has a special double-layer tightly cross-linked spherical network structure, which not only has excellent water resistance, thermal stability and compatibility, but also is long-lasting, safe and non-irritating. So it has become one of the indispensable film-forming ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Therefore, it is vital to evaluate and screen the MQ silicone resin for improving the efficiency of formulation development. The molecular structure and film morphology of 21 MQ silicone resins were analyzed by GPC, microscopy and air permeability analyzer. According to the results, the relationship between the molecular structure of MQ and its application properties, such as film forming time, film brittleness, air permeability, water resistance, sweat resistance and oil resistance, were explored. The results show that the properties or performance of MQ silicone resin are depended on the size and distribution of its molecular weight. For the MQ-type silicone resin filmogen with higher molecular weight and narrower distribution, its film properties of hardness, water resistance and sweat resistance are enhanced with the increase of molecular weight, but its air permeability is subsequently weakened and film forming time is shorter. When the molecular weight decreases and the polymer dispersity index is almost unchanged or broadened, the MQ silicone resin show softer film, better oil resistance, longer film-forming time and higher air permeability.

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    Study of the anti-aging efficacy of Prunus persica (peach) resin extract
    Huang Shaoyong,Zhou Lidan,Xun Wei,Shi Xuemei,Lu Yina
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (2): 159-165.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.008
    Abstract2424)   HTML59)    PDF(pc) (1551KB)(551)       Save

    Photoaging or premature aging of skin is caused by a variety of factors, including hormone imbalance and exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Both ultraviolet light and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in haze can cause skin aging and inflammation. Peach resin is a gum substance secreted from the bark of Rosaceae Prunus persica (L.) Batsch or Prunus davidiana (Carr.) Franch, which is beneficial to health. It also has the advantages of being natural and non-toxic, large in yield, and low in price. Peach gum is a kind of polysaccharide, which has the characteristics of swelling in water and slow release. At present, peach gum has been widely used in food and health care, but the basic research is still relatively weak. Peach gum is a natural cosmetic raw material with great potential for development and application. In this study, a Prunus persica (Peach) resin extract (PG) was prepared and its anti-aging effect was detected by several methods. The results suggested that, based on the model of fibroblast cell aging, PG could promote cell proliferation, Collagen Ⅰ expression and inhibit the activity of beta-GAL in a dosage-dependent manner in the mass fraction range of 0.3% to 10%. In the cell damage model induced by UVA and BaP, PG at the mass fraction between 0.1% to 10% could inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors Prostaglandin E2 and Matrix metallopeptidase 1. The results of clinical study showed that 5% and 10% PG had significantly increased skin tightening effect. In human clinical evaluation, PG at the mass fraction range of 2% to 10% could significantly increase skin moisture content, reduce transepidermal water loss, improve skin firmness, and reduce wrinkles. As a natural material with anti-aging effect, PG can be used in skin anti-wrinkle products.

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    Situation of research work with respect to melanogenesis-associated MITF gene and its expression
    YANG Peng-xin, LIU Lei, MA Lai-ji, HE Cong-fen
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2017, 47 (1): 46-51.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.01.010
    Abstract2412)      PDF(pc) (900KB)(786)       Save
    Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) is the most important transcription factor in the melanogenesis process.MITF gene and its regulation of transcription level were presented.MITF protein and its action on melanocyte and regulation of melanogenesis,mainly via regulation of tyrosinase (TYR) gene family to control the survival and differentiation of melonocyte as well as conduction of the melanogenesis,its transportation and distribution were summarized.The application situation and prospect of MITF on cosmetics and medicine development were discussed.
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    Preparation and characterization of ethyl cellulose-sodium alginate/chitosan microgels
    Qi Jiayue,Mao Yi,Chen Linqian,Wang Jing,Yang Cheng,Sun Yajuan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1259-1268.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.001
    Abstract2395)   HTML26)    PDF(pc) (1930KB)(487)       Save

    The porous nature of microgels allows soluble active ingredients to diffuse into or out of the particles. As a result, the release performance of microgels usually can only sustain for 5 hours, which greatly limits their application. Therefore, to solve the problems of the poorly sustained release performance of common microgel systems, a new type of (ethyl cellulose)-coated sodium alginate/chitosan (EC-Alginate/CS) microgel was prepared. An one-step emulsification method was employed to generate the new type of EC-Alginate/CS core-shell microgel. Ultra-depth microscope, scanning electron microscope (SEM), infrared spectroscopy (FT IR), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), water contact angle (WCA) and swelling ratio were used to characterize the matrix hydrogels and microgels prepared at the same water phase composition to optimize the EC-Alginate/CS core-shell microgels. The cytotoxicity experiments showed that the cell viability of mouse mononuclear macrophages (RAW264.7) at 0.1 g/L was 89.3%, which could prove that the system had good biocompatibility at this concentration. It was found that the encapsulation efficiency (EE) of microgels could achieve 67.1%. The cumulative release effect of the model drug methyl blue (MB) showed that the system could achieve a sustained release of 15 h with a certain pH sensitivity. This study provided theoretical support and application reference for the bioavailable sustained-release system for water-soluble active substances, and it might be further applied to daily chemical products such as cosmetics and laundry detergents.

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    Experimental exploration on applicability of the mixture of polymer and surfactant as the drag reduction additives for firefighting system
    He Wenyun,Xu Na,Li Xiaokun,Zhang Jinyuan,Lv Yaodong,Zhang Xingfang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (9): 913-919.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.001
    Abstract2346)   HTML34)    PDF(pc) (1712KB)(532)       Save

    With the global energy scarcity, the exploration of process energy conservation method is of great significance. The fire fighting plays an important role in the national economy and social development. If the techniques of drag reduction by additives are applied to the firefighting system, the jet velocity and range of firefighting water can be directly increased without additional energy consumption, and consequently, the firefighting efficiency will be improved, and the power consumption of fire pumps will be reduced. According to the characteristics of fire water flow, polyethylene oxide (PEO), octadecyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (OTAC) and sodium salicylate (NaSal) were chosen to be mixed as the drag reduction additives for the firefighting system. The drag reduction ability and surface tension of the mixed PEO/OTAC/NaSal solution were experimentally tested under different conditions. The results show that the PEO/OTAC/NaSal mixture is suitable for the firefighting system as the drag reduction additives, however, the PEO concentration must be controlled. Meanwhile, it is found that the drag reduction ability and surface tension of PEO/OTAC/NaSal solution mainly depend on the interactions between PEO and OTAC. Therefore, the mixture with strong interactions between polymer and surfactant molecules is more suitable for the firefighting system as drag reduction additives.

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    Skin brightening benefit of 4-hexylresorcinol in vivo and in vitro and its underlying mechanism
    Xuelan Gu, Hong Zhang, Xue Xiao, Zhuang Zhou, Jue Qu, Yibing Shi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1437-1446.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.005
    Abstract2252)   HTML18)    PDF(pc) (7450KB)(73)       Save

    4-Hexylresorcinol (4-HR), a potent tyrosinase inhibitor, has been used as an even-tone active ingredient for skin care application since 2007. While the skin brightening efficacy of 4-HR in Chinese population has not been thoroughly investigated and its significance in keratinocytes has not been fully raveled. This study aims to evaluate the skin brightening potential of 4-HR in vivo and in vitro and explore its new mechanism of action through transcriptome approach. The skin brightening effect of 0.4% 4-HR in a facial serum was assessed in an 8-week, double-blinded, placebo-controlled, and randomized clinical study in 67 Chinese participants. ITA°, melanin index (MI) and visual grading were measured at baseline and 2, 4 and 8 weeks after use. A pigmented living skin equivalent (pLSE) model constructed from Asian skin cells was utilized to assess the brightening efficacy of 0.4% 4-HR by measuring the model’s brightness (L* value) and melanin content. Then, transcriptomic analysis of 4-HR treated human epidermal keratinocytes was conducted, and the two in vitro models were adopted for hypothesis validation afterwards. In the clinical study, the result shows both 0.4% 4-HR serum and placebo chassis can significantly improve all measures as compared to baseline at the 2, 4, and 8 weeks. Furthermore, 0.4% HR serum demonstrates a better performance in increasing ITA° as early as 2 weeks of application and decreasing MI value than the placebo group at Week 2. In the pLSE model, 0.4% 4-HR with topical application evidently increases L* value by 15.88% and decreases melanin content by 47.61% compared to UVB group. RNA-sequencing analysis implies that 4-HR can regulate multiple biological processes including skin development, keratinocyte differentiation, oxidant activity and autophagy function. In the blue-light challenged human keratinocytes model, 4-HR shows a significant ROS suppression capacity. In the keratinocytes-melanocytes co-culture model, 4-HR prompts autophagy activity and decreases melanin content. Most importantly, the melanin inhibitory activity of 4-HR is compromised after co-treating with Chloroquine, an autophagy inhibitor, suggesting autophagy regulation property of 4-HR may partially contribute to its skin brightening efficacy. Taken together, these data demonstrate skin brightening efficacy of 0.4% 4-HR in vivo and in vitro, in addition to acting as a tyrosinase inhibitor, 4-HR can contribute to skin brightening benefit via enhancing cellular antioxidant capacity and autophagy activation.

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    Regulation of crystal form and morphology of gypsum during two-step preparation of KH2PO4 via Ca(H2PO42-H3PO4-K2SO4 system
    Ye Wencai,Wu Qin,Yi Yun,Yu Wen,Cao Jianxin
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (11): 1169-1178.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.11.004
    Abstract2197)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (4158KB)(278)       Save

    In Ca(H2PO42-H3PO4-K2SO4 system, α-calcium sulfate was made as a by-product during the production of KH2PO4 through regulating the two-step crystallization reaction including the crystallization of CaSO4·2H2O at lower temperature and the crystal transformation from CaSO4·2H2O to CaSO4·0.5H2O at higher temperature. The effects of reaction conditions on the crystal formation and morphology of CaSO4, the yields of phosphorus and potassium, and the decalcification rate in the two-step crystallization process were studied. The results showed that, the preparation parameters such as reaction temperature, reaction time, K2SO4 solution concentration, SO42- excess coefficient, CaO/P2O5 molar ratio and P2O5 content significantly influenced the morphology of CaSO4 crystal, the yields of phosphorus and potassium, and the decalcification rate. When the first-step reaction and crystallization was operated at 70 ℃ for 60 min and the second-step crystallization transformation was operated at 102 ℃ for 5.0 h under the conditions of K2SO4 concentration being 10%, SO42- excess coefficient of 1.2, CaO/P2O5 ratio of 0.20 and P2O5 content of 25%, the yield of potassium and the yield of phosphorus and the decalcification rate of filtrate were 98.35%, 91.43% and 89.74%, respectively. The crystal form of the gypsum sample thus prepared was α-CaSO4·0.5H2O, and the morphology was hexagonal conical short column. The 2-hour-flexural-strength and absolute dry compressive strength reached 5.70 MPa and 35.07 MPa, respectively, which matched with the α30 level of the α-high-strength gypsum industry standard. The purity of the produced potassium dihydrogen phosphate was higher than 80%.

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    Performance of branched-chain extended surfactant mixed with zwitterionic or cationic surfactant
    Xiaoding Zeng, Yancheng Zheng, Guoqing Zhang, Lingchi Zeng, Jian Mu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1405-1413.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.001
    Abstract2157)   HTML14)    PDF(pc) (6684KB)(67)       Save

    2-Hexyl-1-decanol was used as the main material to prepare a block-polyether sulfonate extended surfactant (IC16P6E6S). The solubility and surface active properties of IC16P6E6S were evaluated, and then the IC16P6E6S was mixed with a cationic surfactant hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) and a zwitterionic betaine surfactant (HAB), respectively. The effects of mixing ratios of IC16P6E6S∶HAB and IC16P6E6S∶CTAB on the hydrodynamic diameter and interfacial properties were discussed. The emulsification, adsorption and laboratory core displacement experiments of the binary system were tested. The results showed that the critical micelle concentration (cmc) of IC16P6E6S in distilled water was 0.1 mmol/L and the surface tension at cmc (γcmc) was 28.53 mN/m. IC16P6E6S showed strong synergistic effects with HAB and CTAB, and the mixed systems could effectively reduce the interfacial tension compared with single surfactants. The mixed systems with n (IC16P6E6S) ∶n (HAB) of 1∶1 and n (IC16P6E6S) ∶n(CTAB) of 1∶3 could maintain ultra-low interfacial tension (in the order of magnitude of 10-3 mN/m) in the salinity range of 1%-7% NaCl and low interfacial tension (in the order of magnitude of 10-2 mN/m) in the salinity range of 3%-7% NaCl, respectively. With the increase of salinity, the emulsion formed by the mixed surfactant system underwent the phase transition process from Winsor Ⅰ to Winsor Ⅲ and then to Winsor Ⅱ. The emulsion of mixed IC16P6E6S/HAB system had more middle-phase emulsion volume than that of the mixed IC16P6E6S/CTAB system, and the former emulsion system was more stable. The mixed IC16P6E6S/HAB system also had good solubilization effect, and the amount of oil solubilization was up to 43 mL/g. Meanwhile, it had good adsorption resistance. Compared with water flooding, the depressurization rate could reach 25.00% and the recovery could be enhanced by 11.75%, indicating that the IC16P6E6S/HAB system was more conducive to the depressurization and injection enhancement for low-permeability reservoirs.

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    Cosmetic emulsions and new technologies of emulsification (I) Fundamental principles of Pickering emulsions and their applications in cosmetics
    CHEN Feng-feng,TAO Sheng-nan,GONG Sui-jing,ZHANG Sheng-wei,SUN Ya-juan,YANG Cheng,LI Yun-xing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (2): 89-97.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.002
    Abstract2100)   HTML146)    PDF(pc) (1608KB)(1328)       Save

    With the increasing demands for safety and sustainable development, the development of surfactant-free emulsion cosmetics has attracted more and more attention from consumers. Colloidal-particle-stabilized emulsions are known as Pickering emulsions, which have many advantages, such as high stability, good biocompatibility, less foaming during emulsification and environmental friendliness. The Pickering emulsions stabilized by colloidal particles derived from natural plants especially show great commercial potential in cosmetics. In the paper, stabilization mechanism of Pickering emulsions and the influencing factors thereof have been summarized. Then, the advantages to apply Pickering emulsions in cosmetics have been discussed, which will provide a reference for further broadening the practical application of Pickering emulsions in cosmetics.

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    Study on the mixed systems of polyether organosilicon surfactant and classic anionic surfactants
    Xinzhi Liang, Ting Sun, Xinyao Ye, Yukai Wang, Liang Bai, Hongguang Li
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1155-1165.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.002
    Abstract2083)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (9356KB)(62)       Save

    Polyether organosilicon surfactants have received widespread attention in recent years due to their excellent surface activities. To further expand the downstream application and develop a surfactant formula, in this work, a polyether modified trisiloxane surfactant was mixed with a classical anionic surfactant (alkyl glycoside sulfonate or fatty-alcohol polyethoxylate phosphate), and the mixed adsorption parameters and mixed micellization parameters of the binary surfactant mixtures were investigated in detail. For the selected mixing ratio, the dispersing performance of binary surfactant mixtures was evaluated in common model systems (foam, emulsion, suspension), which could provide an important reference for the application and development of systems of polyether modified silicone surfactants.

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    Research progress on the application of ferulic acid in cosmetics
    Shiyu Deng, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1489-1496.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.011
    Abstract2039)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (7103KB)(57)       Save

    Ferulic acid is a phenolic compound widely exists in plants. Currently ferulic acid on the market is mainly extracted from plants, but it can also be obtained via biosynthesis or chemical synthesis. The biosynthesis method has a great potential for future production of ferulic acid. Ferulic acid is frequently used as a whitening ingredient in cosmetics, since it reduces melanin production by competitively inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It also has strong antioxidant activity, including elimination of free radicals, inhibition of ROS production, and regulation of various signaling pathways and the activity of antioxidant enzymes. The anti-UV activity of ferulic acid makes it applicable in sunscreen cosmetics. It can absorb UV rays and inhibit UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase MMP-2 and MMP-9 activities to attenuate the damage caused by UV radiation. Ferulic acid is also reported to display protective effects on human keratinocytes and human skin fibroblasts. In addition, it is found to have effective anti-aging effect, mainly through inhibiting the degradation of hyaluronic acid by reducing the activities of collagenase and hyaluronidase, and inducing the biosynthesis of pre-collagen and hyaluronic acid. Ferulic acid shows potential for the treatment of atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and other inflammatory diseases of the skin. Its anti-inflammatory effect results from the inhibition of multiple inflammatory factors and signaling pathways. Ferulic acid displays broad-spectrum antibacterial effect, by damaging the cell membranes of bacteria and fungi which leads to membrane leakage and cell death. Furthermore, ferulic acid can also promote skin healing and regeneration. However, the instability of ferulic acid limits its applications in cosmetics.

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    Research on the application of glycerin and 1.3-butanediol in the preparation of cleansing oil by D-phase emulsification method
    Dong Leilei, Huang Tianyi, Cai Yichao, Duan Guolan, Wu Xu, Zhou Qianhui, Zhang Dongmei
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (11): 1179-1187.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.11.005
    Abstract2036)   HTML35)    PDF(pc) (2798KB)(368)       Save

    The cleansing oil was prepared by D-phase emulsification method. PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate was selected as the emulsifier, glycerol or 1.3-butanediol was used as the co-emulsifier, and 10 kinds of oils in mineral oil, alkane and ester were selected. The effects of oils and polyols on the appearance, conductivity, microstructure and type of emulsion formed during D-phase emulsification were systematically analyzed. The research results show that: according to the ratio of fat∶emulsifier∶co-emulsifier (6∶3∶1), it is found that mineral oil (7#, 10#), ethylhexyl palmitate and two polyols can all form transparent cleansing oil system, but isohexadecane can only work with 1.3-butanediol to get the same system. By observing the appearance and electrical conductivity of the emulsion, it is found that the greater the interfacial tension between ester oils and glycerol, the higher the transparency of the formed system and the smaller the particle size. Compared with glycerin, 1.3-butanediol can improve the transparency of the microemulsion and the conductivity of the particles in the D-phase emulsification process, and it is easier to form a two-continuous phase structure, which can be used in a cleansing oil formulation system.

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    Fabrication of phase change microcapsules via nano-chitin stabilized Pickering emulsion
    Chen Yunbo,Li Xinyi,Mao Zhiping,Xu Hong,Sui Xiaofeng
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1286-1292.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.004
    Abstract1958)   HTML12)    PDF(pc) (2301KB)(344)       Save

    Phase change microcapsules can enhance the thermal and mechanical performance of phase change materials used in thermal energy storage by increasing the heat transfer area and preventing the leakage of materials. In this paper, nano-chitin was prepared by a simple and efficient method, and then a Pickering emulsion was prepared by stabilizing paraffin with the nano-chitin. Finally, phase change microcapsules were obtained by emulsion template method. The effects of hydrochloric acid steaming time, nano-chitin suspension concentration and core-shell ratio on the surface morphology and particle size of microcapsules were studied. The results showed that, when the steaming time was 5 h, the concentration of nano-chitin suspension was 0.5%, and the core-shell ratio was 3∶1, the particle size of the microcapsules obtained was 29.6 μm and the melting enthalpy was up to 187.4 J/g, correspondingly indicative of an encapsulation rate of 71.6%. The thermal stability and thermal cycling performance of microcapsules were characterized by thermogravimetric analysis and heating/cooling cycle, showing a good thermal cycling stability.

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    Study on the effects of pH on the properties of a fatty alcohol ether carboxylate
    Sun Bangping,Zhang Lu,Li Jun,Ju Hongbin,Geng Tao,Jiang Yajie
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1269-1277.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.002
    Abstract1919)   HTML11)    PDF(pc) (1647KB)(213)       Save

    The properties of a fatty alcohol ether carboxylate (AEC-9Na) in acidic and alkaline conditions was tested. Its equilibrium surface tension, dynamic surface tension, adsorption kinetics, dynamic contact angle, wetting properties, emulsification properties and foaming properties at different mass concentrations and different pH values were studied. The results show that, the samples have better surface activity and wettability in acidic conditions, which may ascribed to the highly dependence of the ionization of surfactant molecules on pH. In terms of application performance, the samples showed good foamability but poor foam stability in alkaline conditions. In the case of alkaline conditions, the ionization of carboxyl groups was increased and the electrostatic repulsion of ionic headgroups was increased, resulting in more easily broken foams. Such mechanism can also explain the phenomenon observed in emulsification experiments. The present work, indicative of the different behaviors of fatty alcohol ether carboxylates at different pH, may provide some theoretical support for subsequent research and industrial application.

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    Hydration transformation behaviors of CO2 and excellent anti-inflammatory activity on RAW 264.7 cell
    Wanping Zhang, Yiting Gu, Xuyan Li, Zhiyong Sun, Chunhong Wei, Dongmei Zhang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1289-1297.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.001
    Abstract1919)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (1353KB)(73)       Save

    Skin care products with carbonic acid (H2CO3) have gained extensive attention worldwide. However, the conversion of CO2 to H2CO3 is not stable, and the mechanism of the effect of H2CO3 on skin care has not been clearly proved. The hydration-dissolution behaviors of CO2 were investigated under different temperature, pH, and pressure conditions. Moreover, based on the phenomenon of CO2 hydration transformation, the inflammatory effect of CO2 hydrate on macrophages (RAW 264.7) was investigated. The result shows that the increase in temperature weakened the hydration of CO2, and the increase in pH and pressure both promoted the water-phase transformation of CO2. When pH<6, CO2 reacts with water to generate H2CO3. When pH was between 6-7, the prompt solution was a mixture of H2CO3 and HCO3-. When the pH was between 7-9, they mainly generated HCO3-. And when pH>9, CO2 solubility mainly converts to CO32-. Besides, CO2 can inhibit the secretion of inflammatory factors by RAW 264.7 cells by inhibiting the phosphorylation of the p38 protein. CO2 hydrate inhibited the expression of pro-inflammatory factors IL-6, TNF-α, and up-regulated the expression of anti-inflammatory factor IL-10. Furthermore, the anti-inflammatory molecular mechanism of CO2 hydration inhibited the MAPK signaling pathway by inhibiting the phosphorylation of p38. The hydration-dissolution behavior of CO2 was investigated. This work revealed the anti-inflammatory bioeffect of CO2 hydrate, providing a theoretical basis and application support for CO2 skin care products.

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    Experimental research of inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent for offshore high water cut oil fields
    Meng Yu, Guorui Xu, Xiang Li, Yufei Zheng, Xuan Feng, Jinzhou Yang, Fenggang Liu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1307-1312.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.003
    Abstract1907)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (1429KB)(64)       Save

    An environmentally friendly inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent was prepared for those offshore high water cut oil fields with formation water containing sodium bicarbonate. Sodium silicate and calcium chloride were used as the main agents, while polycarboxylic acid dispersant and emulsion polymer were used as assistants. The effects of the type of polycarboxylic acid dispersant and the mass concentration of emulsion polymer on the performance of the deep profile control and oil displacement agent were studied. The results showed that when the acid-ether ratio of the polycarboxylic acid dispersant was 3.7 and its molecular weight was 23 800, the electrostatic repulsion and steric hindrance from polycarboxylic acid dispersant and inorganic particles achieved an effective dispersing effect. Combined with low concentration of emulsion polymer (500 mg/L), the formulated inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement system could enhance the viscosity and strength of the system, and the initial viscosity was increased from 1.1 mPa·s to 5.4 mPa·s. The results showed that this inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent could increase the flow resistance, with a plugging rate of 82.3%. It could achieve online injection and had the characteristics of rapid dispersing, deep profile control and oil displacement, and low cost. This inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent had application value in high water cut oil fields.

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    Conditions and mechanism for stability of crystalline N-cocoyl glycinate-based facial cleansing cream: Effects of polyols
    TANG Xiao-qin,CHEN Ming-hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (5): 408-412.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.006
    Abstract1887)   HTML43)    PDF(pc) (1220KB)(888)       Save

    The influences of four polyols (glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, PEG-400 and dipropylene glycol) on the stability of crystalline facial cleansing cream based on potassium cocoyl glycinate were investigated. SAXS results displayed lamellar liquid crystal structure of N-cocoyl glycine/potassium N-cocoyl glycinate in aqueous phase. The addition of glycerin increased the interlayer spacing of lamellar, transferring the microstructure towards lamellar liquid crystal structure with broader interlayer spacing. No obvious increasing of the interlayer spacing of lamellar structure was observed with the addition of dipropylene glycol. PEG-400 destroyed the lamellar liquid crystal structure. DSC results revealed that the addition of polyols could elevate the crystallizing temperature. The sequence of impacts was 1,3-butylene glycol>glycerin>PEG-400>dipropylene glycol. In contrast to the rough broad peak of 1,3-butylene glycol system in DSC, the formulation with glycerin showed narrow and clean peak, which indicated that the crystal structure formed with glycerin was uniform and fine. Therefore, glycerin promoted the formation of a more stable layered gel phase and promoted uniform solid crystallization in the system, and the stable coexistence of the two maintained the stability of the crystal-type facial cleansing cream based on potassium cocoyl glycinate.

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    Effect of inflammatory factor TNF-α on human skin cells and screening of effective extracts
    Wang Peiyu,Quan Qianghua,Wei Jing,Gao Siyu,Wang Yiming,An Quan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (3): 287-293.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.03.009
    Abstract1872)   HTML26)    PDF(pc) (1295KB)(296)       Save

    In order to explore the influence of inflammatory factors on human skin, inflammatory factor TNF-α was used as a stimulant to act on human skin cells. In this study, TNF-α was used as a stimulant to stimulate human skin cells. The results show that the content of senescence related secretion phenotype, IL-6 and IL-8, in the cells increases, and the cells are under the senescence state. The contents of type I collagen per protein in human skin fibroblasts, which are treated with 20, 100 and 200 ng/mL TNF-α for 24 h, are 2.740, 2.270 and 1.595 mg, respectively, lower than those in the control group; after 4 h of treatment, the contents of MMP-1 per protein are 3.10, 3.12 and 3.10 ng, respectively, higher than those in the control group. At the same time, compared with the control group, the content of intracellular reactive oxygen species is increased, and the balance of intracellular redox system is broken after the keratinocytes exposed to TNF-α. From the above experimental results, the inflammatory factor TNF-α causes the expression of collagen in skin cells abnormal, breaks the redox system, and has a certain effect on accelerating skin aging. Therefore, TNF-α can be used as a stimulant to establish a chronic inflammatory skin aging model. Follow-up experiments established a chronic inflammatory aging model through 200 ng/mL TNF-α, and investigated and compared the inhibitory effects of vitamin C, dragon’s blood extract, and Dendrobium officinale extract on it. The results show that, compared with the control group, 0.1 mg/mL vitamin C, 0.06 mg/mL dragon’s blood, and 0.5 mg/mL Dendrobium officinale extract can effectively promote the synthesis of intracellular collagen, and the contents per unit protein are 4.95, 4.84, 4.08 mg, respectively; can inhibit the expression of MMP-1, and its contents per unit protein are 1.31, 0.84, and 1.26 ng, respectively; can clear the content of reactive oxygen species in the cells and maintain the intracellular redox balance. The results show that vitamin C, as a recognized anti-aging substance, has the same anti-inflammatory aging effect; the extract of Resina draconis and Dendrobium officinale also have certain anti-inflammatory aging effect.

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    Study on slow-release surfactant nanocarriers in low-permeability reservoirs
    Kang Wanli,Wang Kanghui,Li Zhe,Lv Wei,Yang Hongbin,Jia Ruxue,He Yingqi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (11): 1147-1154.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.11.001
    Abstract1820)   HTML23)    PDF(pc) (1995KB)(235)       Save

    To solve the serious adsorption problem of surfactant flooding in low-permeability reservoir, beeswax, TX-10 and deionized water were used as oil phase, surfactant and water phase to prepare nanoemulsions. The ultrasonic emulsification method at a temperature above the melting point of beeswax (61 ℃) was applied, and then the temperature was reduced to fix TX-10 inside the oil phase, and thus a slow-release surfactant nanocarrier was obtained. By means of UV-vis spectrophotometer, particle size analyzer, interfacial tensiometer and contact angle analyzer, the encapsulation rate and oil displacement properties of nanocarriers were measured. The results showed that, with the increase of TX-10 mass concentration, the average particle size of the nanocarriers was decreased first and then increased, and the minimum particle size was approximately 105 nm when the concentration was 5 000 mg/L, and the encapsulation rate for TX-10 was approximately 90%. At the formation temperature (65 ℃), the nanocarriers could reduce the interfacial tension between simulated oil and water to 3.24×10-2 mN/m and the surface tension to 23.3 mN/m, which was better than the TX-10 solution alone. Moreover, the nanocarriers behaved slow-release in the process of reducing interfacial tension. In addition, the nanocarriers could reverse the wettability of the surface of oleophilic core, which was similar to TX-10 solution. The static adsorption loss rate was less than 0.1%, which was more than ten times lower than that of TX-10 solution. At 30 and 65 ℃, the oil washing efficiency of the nanocarriers was 87.7% and 92.3%, respectively, which was 4% higher than that of TX-10 solution. The nanocarriers prepared in this study can carry surfactants to migrate in formation pores and release surfactants slowly when in contact with crude oil. The nanocarriers have anti-adsorption ability while ensuring the performance of surfactants, showing a good application prospect for enhanced oil recovery in low-permeability reservoirs.

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    Application of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics
    Chunfang Zhu, Junbiao Li, Zhenming Xie
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1243-1250.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.012
    Abstract1793)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (6540KB)(71)       Save

    The multiple emulsion system is an emulsification system with a special structure in the cosmetic formulation process. It can improve the stability and safety of cosmetic functional ingredients, improve the skin feel of traditional emulsions, and achieve synergistic encapsulation and sustained release of different functional ingredients. It has received more and more widespread attention in the field of cosmetics and has become a research hotspot of cosmetic emulsification systems. In formula design and practical application, multiple emulsions are not widely used in the actual production process of cosmetics due to their complex structure, poor stability, difficulty in preparation, and high requirements for actual production process application. This article first introduces multiple emulsions and their characteristic structures, then explains the preparation methods and factors affecting stability of multiple emulsions, providing ideas for solving the stability problems of multiple emulsions. Finally, it outlines the application of different types of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics, and looks forward to the application prospects of multiple emulsions. It aims to provide a theoretical basis for the preparation and application of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics.

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    Preparation and evaluation of the liquid crystal emulsion based on wax ester emulsifier
    Linghua Shen, Vincent Hubiche, Paula Lennon, Jie Zhuang, Jin Zhang, Qianjie Zhang, Wanping Zhang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1320-1329.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.005
    Abstract1793)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (8722KB)(59)       Save

    The influences of preparation technology and formula composition (oils, polyols, rheological regulators and ionic components) on the formation of liquid crystal structure in the emulsion stabilized with wax ester emulsifier were systematically studied, and the application performance of the liquid crystal emulsion was also tested. The experimental results showed that the one-pot method was more conducive to the formation of liquid crystal structure of the emulsion system. The emulsifier had good compatibility with vegetable oil and good emulsifying ability. For plant-origin oils, the smaller the interfacial tension between oil and water, the better the emulsifying effect and the more conducive to the formation of liquid crystal structure. The addition of glycerol could maintain the original excellent liquid crystal structure and stability of the system, but 1,3-butanediol would disrupt the molecular arrangement in the interfacial layer due to the hydrated groups formed by hydrogen bonding with water, thus reducing the integrity and stability of the liquid crystal structure of the system; the addition of ionic components could significantly enhance the liquid crystal structure of the system by increasing the compactness of the arrangement of emulsifiers; the addition of natural rheological regulators, such as AX and Tara, could enhance the high-temperature stability of the liquid crystal structure of the system, while Carbopol® type could enhance its low-temperature stability. Meanwhile, by study of the application performance of liquid crystal emulsion, it was found that the liquid crystal emulsion prepared with wax ester emulsifier had better moisturizing performance than the ordinary structured emulsion, and had certain slow-release effect.

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    Molecular simulation study on the behavior of long-alkyl-chain betaine surfactants at the interface between water and the oil
    Fei Yi, Fantao Meng, Bin Chen, Hao Xu, Xiaoyan Wu, Xiaoliang Li
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1166-1171.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.003
    Abstract1778)   HTML6)    PDF(pc) (5799KB)(42)       Save

    With the large-scale implementation of chemical flooding, the demand for surfactants has increased sharply. Betaine surfactants are a type of efficient displacement agent suitable for multi-scenario exploitation in oilfields due to their excellent interfacial activity, salt resistance, and environmental friendliness. Molecular dynamics simulations were used to study the oil-water interface behavior and microscopic molecular configuration of betaine surfactants with different hydrophobic chain lengths and hydrophilic groups, so as to explore the interfacial activity of long-alkyl-chain betaine surfactants at the molecular level, and explain the recovery-enhancing mechanism. Through mutual verification between the simulation results and experimental data, microscopic explanations for macroscopic experimental phenomena were provided. Furthermore, the interfacial action mechanism of long-alkyl-chain betaine surfactants was summarized, providing guidance for the design of displacement agents based on the interface migration and distribution by molecular simulation.

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    Effect of fermented polypeptide of Sacha Inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.) on the structure of liquid crystal emulsion
    Xiaochun Liu, Tingting Luo, Jie Dai, Laicheng Chen, Qiuxing He
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1456-1464.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.007
    Abstract1729)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (7558KB)(34)       Save

    In order to study the action mechanism of Sacha Inchi polypeptide in liquid crystal emulsion, oil-in-water liquid crystal emulsions with Sacha Inchi fermented polypeptide as the active component were prepared. The microstructures, particle sizes, stabilities, thermodynamic properties, and rheological properties of liquid crystal emulsions with different concentrations of the fermentation products were observed by Polarizing microscope, Particle size meter, Thermogravimetric differential thermal synchronous measurement system, and Rheometer, respectively. The results showed that the average particle size of fermented peptide liquid crystal emulsion was (25.7±2.8) μm, and the liquid crystal structure was complete and stable. The content of bound water and liquid crystal in the emulsion with 1% Sacha Inchi polypeptide were higher than those in the blank emulsion and the emulsions with 3% and 5% Sacha Inchi polypeptide. Rheological results indicated that the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion with the change curve of shear rate registered the shear thinning phenomenon, which belongs to non-Newtonian fluid. The hysteresis area, energy storage modulus, and loss modulus of the 1% additive amount of liquid crystal emulsion were larger than those of the blank emulsion and the emulsions with 3% and 5% Sacha Inchi polypeptide, indicating greater thixotropy and stronger shear resistance. The hydrophilic amino acid residues of the peptide in the 1% additive amount of the emulsion were combined with the water phase, while the hydrophobic amino acid residues of the peptide entered the oil phase, which formed a viscoelastic film at the oil-water interface, so that the liquid crystal emulsion had a more stable gel network structure.

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    An overview of skin penetration test methods for cosmetics
    SONG Yan-qing,PAN Yao,ZHAO Hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (12): 824-829.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.12.010
    Abstract1711)   HTML93)    PDF(pc) (1895KB)(2694)       Save

    The approaches and theories of skin penetration of cosmetics were summarized. The in vitro and in vivo of transdermal absorption, such as diffusion cell methods, tape stripping and spectroscopy were introduced. A new idea for evaluating the transdermal absorption capacity of cosmetics was provided and the development trend of the cosmetics skin penetration evaluation methods was proposed.

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    Coacervation of oxidized glutathione with a cationic surfactant and the application in dye removal
    Yue Zhang, Yu Liu, Li Zhao, Ce Wang, Baocai Xu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1423-1430.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.003
    Abstract1682)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (6082KB)(38)       Save

    Coacervation of oxidized glutathione (GSSG) and a cationic surfactant, didodecyldimethylammonium bromide (DDAB), was constructed mainly driven by the electrostatic and hydrophobic interactions. The pH-dependent coacervate of GSSG-DDAB (1∶4, mol/mol) was analyzed. Under acidic and neutral conditions, a turbid suspension of droplets is observed, and alkaline pH results in the phase separation of coacervates as the top phase. The coacervate phase exhibits good performance (extraction efficiency>85%) in extracting several dyes from water, including brilliant yellow, acid red 13, cresyl violet acetate, eriochrom blue SE, and 4-hydroxyazobenzene. The dyes are added into the suspension in acidic conditions. Then, the dyes are enriched and extracted along with the coacervates as the top phase when pH is adjusted to~10. Coacervation of GSSG with DDAB provides a simple approach to extract organic pollutants in wastewater treatment.

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    The production of high yield biosurfactant rhamnolipid and performance research
    Zheng Lanjian,Zang Ying,Lin Tong,Xie Yiwen,Wang Honglei
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (9): 937-944.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.004
    Abstract1621)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (1235KB)(292)       Save

    In order to reduce the cost of biosurfactant in various industries and alleviate the environmental pressure caused by kitchen waste oil, a strain with higher surface activity was screened out through preliminary screening of crude oil medium and re-screening of emulsification index and surface tension measurement from preserved strains with crude oil-contaminated soil in the early stage. In addition, biosurfactant produced by this strain was extracted by acid precipitation-organic solvent extraction, such as acid precipitation-ethyl acetate and acid precipitation-(VchloroformVmethanol=2∶1). Further, the biosurfactant production of this bacteria was optimized by single factor experiment and physical-chemical properties, emulsification and solubilization of biosurfactant were characterized. The experimental results show that a strain with higher surface activity, Pseudomonas aeruginosa AY-1, is obtained through screening. This strain is fermented to produce 5.86 g/L biosurfactant which are characterized as rhamnolipids when the fermentation conditions are 35 ℃, pH=8.0, shaker speed 180 r/min, kitchen waste 50 g/L, sodium nitrate 2 g/L and fermentation time 96 h. The critical micelle mass concentration (cmc) of rhamnolipid produced by this strain is 200 mg/L, and the surface tension of rhamnolipids changes little when rhamnolipid is in all kinds of conditions such as temperature (4-120 ℃), pH=2-12 and the content of NaCl (0-20%, w/%). At the same time, the emulsification performance on different hydrophobic compounds (methylbenzene, n-hexane, cyclohexane, heptane and n-hexadecane) and solubilization effect on polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (phenanthrene and pyrene) of rhamnolipids produced by this strain were further studied. Results show that the rhamnolipids produced by this strain have the best emulsification effect on n-hexadecane and significant solubilization effect on polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (phenanthrene and pyrene).

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅹ) The stable, highly viscous, water-soluble microbial polysaccharides: xanthan gum
    Niya Lv, Yanshuang Zhang, Guimei Han, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1172-1180.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.004
    Abstract1617)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (6644KB)(38)       Save

    Xanthan gum is a kind of extracellular polysaccharides produced by xanthomonas. It is a heteropolysaccharide polymer with high molecular weight formed by a series of five-sugar residues repeating units. Xanthan gum and its derivatives are widely used in various industries such as daily-use chemical industry, food processing industry, pharmaceutical industry, water treatment, and oil exploitation, due to their excellent stability, thickening ability, emulsifying ability, suspensibility, rheological property, acid resistance, base resistance, heat resistance, salt resistance, and other fit properties. In this paper, the chemical structure, the main physicochemical properties, the production methods, and the modification technologies of xanthan gum, as well as the properties, the preparation, separation and purification methods of xanthan gum oligosaccharides are briefly presented. Furthermore, the application status of xanthan gum and its modified products, the current problems in xanthan gum production, and the future prospects for the development of xanthan gum are also mentioned in this paper.

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    Analysis of flavonoid metabolic pathways of different varieties of Phalaenopsis and their molecular mechanism
    Cheng Ling,Wang Jianping
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (12): 1293-1299.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.005
    Abstract1570)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1397KB)(361)       Save

    High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to study the flavonoid metabolism pathways of 18 Phalaenopsis. A HPLC technology was established to analyze the pathway of flavonoid metabolism (regulate color). Fluorescence quantitative PCR (Real-Time PCR) was used to further analyze the expression level of key genes in Phalaenopsis flavonoid synthesis pathway, and an Agrobacterium-mediated transient transformation of Phalaenopsis was used to obtain transgenic strains. Phalaenopsis HPLC separation technology can successfully separate 29 components, which is quite different from other species of grape and hyacinth. Real-Time PCR analysis of the key genes in the flavonoid synthesis pathway of different species of Phalaenopsis finds that the temporal and spatial expression patterns of Chalcone synthase (CHS), Flavonol-3-hydroxylase (F3H) and Chalcone isomerase (CHI) of different species are basically the same. The key enzyme gene RNAi interference vector is constructed by Agrobacterium-mediated method to transform Phalaenopsis transiently. The interference expression of key enzyme genes in the flavonoid synthesis pathway will reduce the color of Phalaenopsis. In conclusion, the HPLC research method of Phalaenopsis flavonoid metabolism pathway is established, and its molecular mechanism is preliminary studied, which provids a theoretical and practical basis for revealing the color regulation mechanism of Phalaenopsis orchids.

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    Progress in research of skin permeability of cosmetics Evaluation method and enhancement technology
    YANG Man-li,ZHOU Ming-yue,HU Xue-qing,CHEN Feng,HE Cong-fen,JIA Yan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (11): 793-798.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.010
    Abstract1556)   HTML55)    PDF(pc) (893KB)(1633)       Save

    For the transdermal delivery system used in cosmetics, the common methods for promoting penetration have been listed, including chemical permeation-enhancing techniques, nanotechnology (nanoemulsions, nanocrystals, liposomes, niosomes, micelles, etc.), physical permeation-enhancing techniques (iontophoresis, ultrasonic introduction, and microneedle) and biological permeability-promoting technology. The testing methods of transdermal absorption of cosmetics in vitro (in-vitro diffusion cell method, mathematical model, three-dimensional skin model, LC-MS, and Raman spectroscopy) have been briefly introduced, and the future transdermal penetration methods of cosmetics have been prospected.

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    Experimental study of non-aqueous foams stabilized with different surfactant aggregates
    Ziwei Zhang, Yongli Yan, Bingcheng He, Longlong Dou, Song Shi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1181-1190.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.005
    Abstract1543)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (6946KB)(43)       Save

    Non-aqueous foams have wide applications in cosmetics, porous materials, biomedicine, oil and gas development, etc. However, due to the low surface tension of non-aqueous solvents, they have difficulty in foaming and their foams usually have poor stability. Therefore, relevant field has been a difficult problem to overcome. Surfactant aggregates are widely used in related field due to their high density and ordered structure. In this work, different surfactant aggregates were prepared and characterized, in which sodium dodecyl sulfonate and sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate were used as the main agents, and formamide and decanol were used as the non-aqueous phase. Then their foaming ability and foam stability for non-aqueous solvents were observed. The results showed that all these surfactant aggregates were of layered liquid crystal structure, belonging to non-Newtonian fluids, which had shear-thinning rheological phenomenon. The higher the content of surfactant, the more stable the layered liquid crystal structure of the surfactant aggregates. The foam volume was first increased and then decreased with the increase of layered liquid crystal content. The foam-stabilizing ability of SDBS/decanol/formamide system was better than that of SDS/decanol/formamide system. When formamide was used as the non-aqueous phase and the layered liquid crystal content in the SDBS/decanol/formamide system was 60% (w/%), the foam life was more than 55 h. When the non-aqueous phase was decanol and the layered liquid crystal content in the SDBS/decanol/formamide system was 60% (w/%), the foam life lasted for more than 6 h.

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    The mechanism of skin glycation reaction, influencing factors and the development status of anti-glycation in the cosmetics industry
    LI Hui-ke,FENG Nan,WANG Wen-bo,LI Jun-xiang,HE Cong-fen
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (2): 153-160.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.012
    Abstract1537)   HTML95)    PDF(pc) (1200KB)(1186)       Save

    The formation process of the advanced glycation end product (AGEs) and its effect on the skin were clarified in the paper through the introduction of the mechanism of skin glycation in details and the measures against the skin glycation and the mechanism of action were introduced too. The cosmetic brands and ingredients that claim anti-glycation effects at present were summarized, and the deficiencies in the development of anti-glycation cosmetics in the market were analyzed in personal opinion. It aims to provide solid and scientific theoretical basis for the development of anti-glycation cosmetics.

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