一种中草药复合物化妆品的祛痘抗炎功效评价研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.08.008

Abstract

Abstract:

The safety and efficacy of the extract from the mixture of 5 kinds of Chinese herbal medicines and the acne care essence containing this extract were studied. In vitro bacteriostasis experiment was conducted using the acne propionibacterium. Inflammatory model of with lipopolysaccharide （LPS）-induced RAW264.7 mice macrophage was set up for the anti-inflammatory efficacy test. Irritation was evaluated by RBC hemolysis test. Finally, the acne care essence containing the extract from the mixtrue of five kinds of Chinese herbal medicines was evaluated in the aspects of safety （human body patch test） and acne efficacytest, and it was also compared with a best-selling acne care product containing the active ingredient of 1% salicylic acid. The results showed that the acne care essence containing the extract from the mixtrue of five kinds of Chinese herbal medicines was safe and mild and had anti-acne effect.

Key words: Chinese herbal medicine, acne care essence, safety, efficacy, cosmetic

CLC Number:

TQ658

LIU Ting,LIU Fang,CHEN Liang,GONG Sheng-zhao. Evaluation on the anti-acne and anti-inflammatory effects of Chinese herbal composite cosmetics[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2020, 50(8): 553-559.

Figures/Tables 16

Tab. 1

Tab. 2

Fig. 1

Tab. 3

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Tab. 4

Fig. 5

Tab. 5

Tab. 6

Tab. 7

Tab. 8

Tab. 9

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

References 22

[1]	Dréno B, Bettoli V, Araviiskaia E, et al. The influence of exposome on acne[J]. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology & Venereology, 2018,32(5) : 812-819. doi: 10.1111/jdv.14820 pmid: 29377341
[2]	Ugge H, Udumyan R, Carlsson J, et al. Acne in late adolescence and risk of prostate cancer[J]. International Journal of Cancer, 2018,142(8) : 1580-1585. doi: 10.1002/ijc.31192 pmid: 29205339
[3]	Ewa Chlebus, Marcin Chlebus. Factors affecting the course and severity of adult acne. Observational cohort study[J]. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2017,28(8) : 737-744. doi: 10.1080/09546634.2017.1329500 pmid: 28489484
[4]	Le Cleach L, Lebrun-Vignes B, Bachelot A, et al. Guidelines for the management of acne: recommendations from a French multidisciplinary group[J]. The British Joyrnal of Dermatology, 2017,177(4) : 908-913.
[5]	He Jingyu, Lu Xianyuan, Wei Ting, et al. Asperuloside and asperulosidic acid exert an anti-inflammatory effect via suppression of the NF-kB and MAPK signaling pathways in LPS-induced RAW 264.7 macrophages[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2018,19(7) : 2027. doi: 10.3390/ijms19072027
[6]	Junlei Liua, Huarong Huanga, Zebin Huanga, et al. Eriocitrin in combination with resveratrol ameliorates LPS-induced inflammation in RAW264.7 cells and relieves TPA-induced mouse ear edema[J]. Journal of Functional Foods, 2019,56:321-332. doi: 10.1016/j.jff.2019.03.008
[7]	Deng Nuo, Yi Yan, Liang Aihua, et, al. Part of the mechanism of renal toxicity of rhubarb[J]. Chinese Journal of Traditional Chinese Medicine, 2018,43(13) : 2777-2783.
[8]	Lu Huiying, Zhao Chenxi, Wu Hai, et, al. Study on the correlation between antioxidant activity of rhubarb extract and free anthraquinone[J]. Chinese Traditional and Herbal Drugs, 2010,41(3) : 412-415.
[9]	Wang Zhidong, Liang Rongrui, Li Zongfang. Research progress on pharmacological action of chrysanthemum[J]. Medical Review, 2009,15(6) : 906-908.
[10]	Liu Chengping. Study on composition stability and quality of wild chrysanthemum[D]. Guangzhou: Guangzhou University of Chinese Medicine, 2011. doi: 10.1186/s13020-019-0256-7 pmid: 31572491
[11]	Zhao Xiuling. Research progress in functional ingredient, healthy function and exploration utilization of chrysanthemum indicum[J]. Science and Technology of Food Industry, 2012,33(6) : 429-431, 434.
[12]	Zhang Rui, Yan Meixia, Xu Shiquan, et al. Research status of ginseng beauty and hair care efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2014,44(3) : 163-166.
[13]	Yao Mengjie, Lv Jinpeng, Zhang Qiao, et al. Study on chemical constituents and pharmacological effects of ginseng[J]. Jilin Traditional Chinese Medicine, 2017,12:1261-1263.
[14]	Yu Chenni, Feng Xiaogang, Zhang Jianmin, et al. New progress in the study of chemical constituents and pharmacological action of ginseng[J]. Renshen Yanjiu, 2019,31(1) : 47-51.
[15]	Zhang Wenjuan, Xu Baolin, Shi Juemin. Study on pharmacological action of peony root[J]. Modern Applied Pharmacy in China, 1999,12(6) : 24-26.
[16]	Huang Haixia, Fu Qiang, Chen Xiao, et al. Study on antioxidant activity of peony root extract[J]. Chinese Medicine, 2010,21(4) : 885-886.
[17]	Yang Xiaolong, Zhang Ke, Xu Junfeng, et, al. Research on pharmacological activities of cortex moutan[J]. Journal of Henan University of Science and Technology (Medical Science) , 2012,30(2) : 157-158.
[18]	Wang Xiaomin, Chen Qiao, Guo Lili, et al. Antimicrobial activity and component analysis of ethanol tracts from forsythia fruit and forsythia leaf[J]. Science and Technology of Food Industry, 2019,40(6) : 89-94.
[19]	Hu Jingyi, Lei Ling, Yu Yue, et al. Study on anti-inflammatory and antipyretic effects of forsythia[J]. Pharmacology and Clinic of Traditional Chinese Medicine, 2007,23(3) : 51-52.
[20]	Qu Falin, Zhang Liyi, Yu Haiying, et al. Research progress on the antidepressant mechanism of Hypericum perforatum[J]. Chinese Journal of Nervous and Mental Diseases, 2003 (1) : 80-82.
[21]	Ma Yue, Li Jingyun, Jin Shaohong. The american clinical laboratory standards committee recommends the operation methods and judgment standards of drug susceptibility testing (revised edition in 2005)[J]. Chinese Medical Journal, 2005 (17) : 1182-1184.
[22]	Liu Fang, Xu Yongwei, Wang Shanshan, et al. Study on skincare efficacy of compound extract from Chinese herbal medicines[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2018,48(8) : 450-477.

反应程度	评分等级	皮肤反应
-	0	阴性反应
±	1	可疑红斑反应
+	2	弱阳性反应（红斑反应）：红斑、浸润、水肿,可有丘疹
++	3	强阳性反应（疱疹反应）：红斑、浸润、水肿,丘疹、疱疹;反应超出受试区
+++	4	极强阳性反应（融合性疱疹反应）：明显红斑、严重浸润、水肿、融合性疱疹;反应超出受试区

皮损类型	数量/个	皮损分值/分
无皮损	0	0
白头粉刺	≥1	1
黑头粉刺	≥1	2
炎性丘疹	≥1	3
脓头丘疹	≥1	4

受试物名称	添加量/%	菌落数量/（CFU·mL^-1）	抑菌效果评估	抑菌效果分级
中草药复合物	原液	8	极敏	极敏：菌落数≤10 CFU·mL^-1
中草药复合物	0.08%	106	中敏	高敏：菌落数10~100 CFU·mL^-1
祛痘精华液	0.08%	560	中敏	中敏：菌落数100~1 000 CFU·mL^-1
对标品	-	1 200	低敏	低敏：菌落数1 000~10⁶ CFU·mL^-1
空白对照	-	>10⁶	不敏	不敏：菌落数>10⁶ CFU·mL^-1

	祛痘精华液		对标品
	NO含量/ （μmol·L^-1）	TNF-a含量/ （ng·L^-1）	NO含量/ （μmol·L^-1）	TNF-a含量/ （ng·L^-1）
空白组	0.004±0.001	39.425± 2.041	0.006±0.002	30.563± 2.551
LPS诱导组	70.075±2.561	5 832.712±92.501	72.681±3.501	5 867.853±87.931
中草药复合物添加量为0	69.136±1.968	5 768.694±89.565	70.637±3.035	5 861.832±69.597
中草药复合物添加量为0.08%	46.623±2.697	3 102.625±61.358

样品编号	HC₅₀/ (mg·L^-1)	DI/%	L/D	刺激性分级	刺激性分级标准
中草药复合物	9 869.8	94.8	104.11	无刺激性	L/D﹥100：无刺激性 10﹤L/D≤100：微刺激性
祛痘精华液	30 102.6	98.4	2 962.10	无刺激性	1﹤L/D≤10：轻度刺激性 0.1﹤L/D≤1：中度刺激性
对标品	12 368.5	96.6	128.04	无刺激性	L/D≤0.1：重度刺激性

Evaluation on the anti-acne and anti-inflammatory effects of Chinese herbal composite cosmetics

RichHTML

PDF (PC)

Like

Knowledge

Abstract

Cite this article

share this article

Figures/Tables 16

References 22

Related Articles 15

Metrics

Comments

Recommended 10

	祛痘精华液		对标品		空白组
	24 h	48 h	24 h	48 h	24 h	48 h
皮肤出现红斑人数	0	0	1	3	0	0
皮肤未出现红斑人数	24	24	23	21	24	24

受试物名称	祛痘效果体现	见效时间
受试物名称	祛痘效果体现	第7天	第14天	未起效
祛痘精华液	人数	12	9	3
对标品	人数	10	8	6

[1]	Jingxuan Liu, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu. Botanical cosmetic ingredients （VII）Research and development of plant antifungal [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 259-266.
[2]	Wu Bi, Xiaohong Pan, Xiaoqin Tu, Shuai Yin, Hui Sun. Analysis of the mechanism of anti-sensitive skin effect of cosmetic raw material Stephania tetrandra based on network pharmacology [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 305-312.
[3]	Yaoyao Li. Study on the anti-aging and antioxidant effects of isosinensetin [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 313-319.
[4]	Mengran Xu, Hua Zhao. Research progress on the evaluation methods of cosmetic after-sun repair efficacy [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 329-336.
[5]	Liyuan Zhang, Linqi Yan, Qiaoyuan Cheng, Lvye Qi, Rong Wang, Liuqian Huang. Determination of 14 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and hydroxy esters in cosmetics [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 353-359.
[6]	Wei Xu, Po Zou, Changyu Li, Ming Yang, Yan Lu, Huiliang Li. Determination of 36 stimulants in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 360-368.
[7]	Kangfu Zhou, Yixuan Zhi, Feifei Wang, Yazhuo Shang. New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （VI）Microemulsion [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 139-148.
[8]	Zhen Xie, Wei Huang, Jinsong Zhang, Shuhuai Chen, Linji Qu, Rong Kuang. Study on biomarkers of corneal injury in the evaluation of eye irritation of cosmetics [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 161-167.
[9]	Huiyi Li, Yue Zhou, Qian Wu, Lidi Du, Jiaying Xie, Jianhua Tan. Evaluation of cosmetics in melanin inhibition efficacy [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 168-174.
[10]	Xiaohong Pan, Ziqi Gao, Zhen Chen, Shuai Yin, Haiping Huang, Bin Hu. Discussion on the current situation of research and management on the stability of cosmetic products in China [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 201-208.
[11]	Li Lu, Fang Fang, Youlong Feng, Ling Cao. Screening for illegal addition of sulfonamides in cosmetic products using ultra-performance liquid chromatographytriple quadrupoletandem mass spectrometry with precursor ion scanning [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 216-223.
[12]	Ren Wang, Yuanyang Wu, Jia Qiao, Linqi Yan, Cen Chen, Liyuan Zhang. Study on phenoxyethanol content in children’s cosmetics on the mark and preliminary risk assessment [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 224-230.
[13]	Yixiang Lu, Liting Wu, Jimin Jiang, Hailu Chen, Xuan Huang. Determination of tolnaftate and liranaftate in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography and verification by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 231-238.
[14]	Liyuan Zhang, Qiaoyuan Cheng, Cen Chen, Zehua Li, Liuqian Huang, Lvye Qi. Determination of 3 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and their esters in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(1): 102-106.
[15]	Linling Lu, Hui Lu, Chunyan Min, Yefei Qian. Determination of functional components of Glycyrrhizae, Ginseng and Scutellariae in facial masks by UHPLC-MS/MS [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(1): 107-113.

	祛痘精华液		对标品		空白组
	24 h	48 h	24 h	48 h	24 h	48 h
志愿者1	-	-	+	+	-	-
志愿者2	-	-	±	±	-	-
志愿者3	-	-	±	±	-	-
志愿者4	-	-	±	+	-	-

试用产品	祛痘效果体现	痘痘红肿减轻	痘痘红肿消退	痘痘疼痛减轻	痘痘疼痛消失	痘痘部分消失	痘痘大部分消失
对标品	人数	13	4	3	1	6	0
对标品	比例	54.17%	16.67%	12.50%	4.17%	25.00%	0
祛痘精华液	人数	14	7	7	1	8	3
祛痘精华液	比例	58.33%	29.17%	29.17%	4.17%	33.33%	12.5%