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China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics ›› 2024, Vol. 54 ›› Issue (3): 320-328.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.03.011

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Mechanism and research progress of chemical leukoderma induced by 4-substituted phenols

Wanping Zhang1,2,Qi Peng1,2,Dongmei Zhang1,2,Shilian Zheng1,2,Wen Jiang1,Lihao Gu1,2,*()   

  1. 1. School of Perfume and Aroma Technology, Shanghai Institute of Technology, Shanghai 201418, China
    2. The Oriental Beauty Valley Research Institute, Shanghai 201403, China
  • Received:2023-04-27 Revised:2024-03-06 Online:2024-03-22 Published:2024-03-25
  • Contact: *Tel.:+86-13501783241, E-mail: chaosrehoate@qq.com.

Abstract:

4-substituted phenols are a class of organic compounds widely used in pharmaceuticals, pesticides, dyes, food additives and cosmetics. The application of 4-substituted phenols in cosmetics is mainly due to its structural similarity with tyrosine, which makes it have a unique effect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity and inhibiting melanin formation in the skin. Therefore, including chemical substances such as arbutin and resveratrol, there are many 4-substituted phenols used as whitening ingredients in cosmetics. However, 4-substituted phenols including hydroquinone also have certain safety risks. A large number of studies have shown that many 4-substituted phenols have melanocyte toxicity, and different substituents will also induce different pathways and toxicities of melanocyte toxicity. The improper use of them may induce the occurrence of vitiligo and leukoderma, causing harm to the consumers’ health. This article reviews the whitening and melanocyte toxicity mechanisms of 4-substituted phenols and hydroquinone, as well as the cases of leukoderma in different countries, in order to provide reference for the development of safer whitening chemicals.

Key words: 4-substituted phenol, rhododendrol, chemical leukoderma, mechanism

CLC Number: 

  • TQ658