头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅷ）——防脱生发体外评价方法以及植物防脱原料研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.08.003

Abstract

Abstract:

With the development of science and technology and the improvement of people’s living standards, the public’s aesthetic has gradually improved. People are more and more concerned about the appearance, especially the hair, and the prevention and hair growth have become the focus of everyone’s attention. Alopecia refers to a kind of physiological phenomenon that hair falls off, which is divided into physiological alopecia and pathological alopecia. Hair follicle （HF） plays an important role in the formation and growth of hair morphology, and different cell signaling pathways and growth factors are involved in the regulation of hair follicle growth cycle. Based on the human dermal papilla cell （HDPCs） model, several stress-inducing models in vitro were reviewed in this paper. Through the changes of markers in the models, the efficacy of anti-detachment materials was investigated and screened. In addition, several common plant anti-hair loss materials were listed, and their mechanism of action in hair follicles was summarized, hoping to provide reference for future research on anti-hair loss theory and raw material development.

Key words: in vitro, human dermal papilla cells, alopecia

CLC Number:

TQ658

Chen Xianqi,Ma Ling,Chen Timson,Chang Kuan,Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅷ）Method for in vitro evaluation of hair growth prevention and research progress of plant anti-stripping raw materials[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(8): 873-881.

Figures/Tables 10

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References 57

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生长因子	作用
表皮生长因子（EGF）	结合ErbB1受体诱导ORS细胞内DNA合成，并将毛球细胞分化为ORS细胞^[20]（ErbB1是调节毛囊生长周期的主要EGF受体）
转化生长因子-β（TGF-β）	在毛囊周期的退行期起着重要的调节作用，毛囊细胞的表皮修复依赖于TGF-β1的表达^[21]
胰岛素样生长因子-1（IGF-1）	是一种多功能的调节生长因子，控制细胞增殖和毛囊细胞的生存^[22]
肝细胞生长因子（HGF）	调节上皮角化细胞与HDPCs的相互作用；主要参与毛囊形态发生过程中角质形成细胞的增殖、分化和凋亡^[23]
角化细胞生长因子（KGF）	可诱导毛囊增殖和祖细胞分化，促进上皮化和创面愈合，是皮肤再生的关键决定因子^[24]
血管内皮生长因子（VEGF）	诱导毛细血管网络的增殖；在毛囊外根鞘（Outer root sheath, ORS）中过表达，促进毛发再生^[25]
成纤维生长因子（FGF）	在头发发育过程中，HDPCs增加了FGF的表达；外源性FGF7/FGF10也能刺激毛囊角质形成细胞的增殖^[26]
白细胞介素类（ILs）	ILs刺激会引起毛乳头变形收缩、毛母质细胞空泡异常、内根鞘和毛球部角化异常等生长期毛囊营养不良现象，抑制毛囊和毛发的生长^[27]

名称	防脱机理	参考文献
积雪草	促进HDPCs增殖，上调VEGF	[45]
侧柏叶	促进HDPCs增殖，上调Wnt10b、β-catenin蛋白、IGF-1、VEGF	[46]
红花	促进HDPCs增殖，上调VEGF、KGF，下调TGF-β1	[47]
何首乌	抑制5α-还原酶，上调FGF、HGF、β-catenin和Shh蛋白	[48]
老鹳草	促进HDPCs增殖，上调HGF，下调TGF-β1	[49]
女贞子	抑制5α-还原酶	[50]
苦参	抑制5α-还原酶，上调IGF-1和KGF	[51]
三七	抑制5α-还原酶，促进HDPCs增殖	[52]
当归	上调Bcl-2/Bax比值，降低退行期TNF-α水平	[53]
斑叶芒	下调TGF-β1，上调HGF和β-catenin蛋白	[54]

Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅷ）Method for in vitro evaluation of hair growth prevention and research progress of plant anti-stripping raw materials

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