化妆品原料标准现状及缺失分析

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.06.009

Abstract

Abstract:

The quality of cosmetics greatly depended on the quality of raw materials. Through the analysis and sorting of cosmetics raw material standards, it was found that the existing national and industrial cosmetics raw material standards included limited and permitted substances in “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics”, basic materials and raw materials that might contain harmful impurities. The number of preservative standards accounted for more than 1/4 of all national and industrial cosmetic raw material standards. There are some raw materials that might contain harmful impurities, such as methanol, asbestos and diethylene glycol, in ethanol, talc powder and glycerol, respectively. If the amount of these impurities is not controlled, it might cause health damage to the consumers. Different from the concerns of government departments, the group standard focuses on the raw material standards of basic raw materials and plant extracts. Although there are many common raw materials without special standards for cosmetics, they could refer to the standards of other industries. However, the attention should be paid to the applicability of these standards. For example, only a few standards of colorant food additives could fully meet the requirements of “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics”. Nowadays, the raw materials standards only account for a small part of raw materials allowed in “Catalogue of used cosmetic raw materials”. The popular nano component standard is missing, and the setting of characteristic indicators in the raw material standards of plant extracts is also insufficient. The lack of unified cosmetic raw material standards brings great difficulties to the quality control of enterprises and the supervision of government. In the future, it is suggested to strengthen the draft of raw material standards for cosmetic raw materials that may contain harmful impurities, functional components, nano components and plant extracts, to improve the standardization system of cosmetic raw materials.

Key words: cosmetics, raw material, standard, current situation, deficiency

CLC Number:

TQ658

Gu Yuxiang, Liu Shu, Zhou Yu. Analysis on the current situation and deficiency of cosmetic rawmaterial standards[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(6): 673-678.

Figures/Tables 2

References 34

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标准	特征性单一成分	特征性类别成分
QB/T 2488—2006	芦荟苷	多糖、O-乙酰基
QB/T 4951—2016	光甘草定	黄酮
T/CAFFCI 14—2018	红景天苷
T/CAFFCI 15—2018		总多酚
T/CAFFCI 17—2019	积雪草苷、羟基积雪草苷
T/CAFFCI 47—2021	芍药苷
T/CAFFCI 48—2021		总黄酮醇苷
T/HPCIA 008—2021		总皂苷
T/HPCIA 009—2021	柚皮苷
T/HPCIA 010—2021		羟基萘醌总色素
T/SDCIA 1007—2022	亚麻酸、亚油酸、油酸
T/SHRH 037—2021	维生素E、角鲨烯	甾醇总量、脂肪酸组成

发酵虫草菌粉产品	各版本《中国药典》的规定
金水宝胶囊	2000年版：薄层色谱鉴别氨基酸、3种核苷、甘露醇，高效液相色谱测定腺苷；
金水宝胶囊	2015年版：新增高效液相色谱测定物质5种核苷和麦角甾醇
百令胶囊	2005年版：薄层色谱鉴别3个氨基酸，高效液相色谱测定腺苷、尿苷等6个成分，氨基酸分析仪测定总氨基酸含量，滴定法测定甘露醇含量；
	2010年版：新增麦角甾醇的鉴别；
	2015年版：新增高效液相色谱法鉴别氨基酸色谱峰

Analysis on the current situation and deficiency of cosmetic rawmaterial standards

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