板栗壳色素在染发剂中的应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.001

Abstract

Abstract:

The toxicity evaluation of the prepared chestnut shell pigment hair dye was conducted by using acute percutaneous toxicity test and acute eye irritation/corrosion test in this study. The hair dyeing process of the chestnut shell pigments was optimized by single-factor experiments and was further analyzed for fading phenomena （washing and UV irradiation fading） of the dyed hair by chromatography, texturizing, scanning electron microscopy （SEM） and differential scanning calorimetry （DSC）. The results indicate that hair dyes made from chestnut shell pigments are practically non-toxic and non-irritating. The hair dyeing conditions after optimization of the chestnut shell pigment are as follow: chestnut shell pigment concentration of 0.15 g/mL, colorants pH of 8.5, FeCl₃ addition amount of 10%, dyeing temperature of 45 ℃, and dyeing method of pre-mordant method. The maximum dE^* value of the dyed hair after washing is only 6.348, and the maximum dE^* values after UV （UVA and UVB） irradiation are 3.340 and 3.280, with no significant change in fading or in the tensile strength of the hair. SEM results show that there is no obvious warping of hair surface scales after washing and UV irradiation of the dyed hair, so the dye is not easily washed off from the hair. DSC results indicate that the enthalpy of denaturation of the dyed hair decrease gradually with the increase of washing temperature, so the increase of temperature will reduce the α-keratin content of the dyed hair. And the enthalpy of denaturation of the dyed hair after UV irradiation is not significantly different from that of the hair without UV irradiation, indicating that UV irradiation damage to α-keratin in dyed hair is less. This paper presents a comprehensive evaluation of the hair-dyeing performance of chestnut shell pigments, aiming to provide a corresponding theoretical basis and technical support for the high-value application of chestnut shell waste, which is more conducive to guide and promote the development of chestnut industry.

Key words: chestnut shell pigment, toxicity evaluation, hair dyeing process, color fading phenomenon

CLC Number:

TQ658

Zhu Ting, Shen Qiruonan, Xu Yujuan, Li Chunmei. Application of chestnut shell pigment in hair dyes[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(5): 493-502.

Figures/Tables 11

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References 21

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Type	Name	w/%	Condition
Softener （A）	L-cysteine	7	pH=8.5 t=15 min T=25 ℃
	Cocoamidopropyl Betaine	4
	Hydroxyethyl Cellulose	1
	Penetrating agent JFC	0.5
	Distilled water	Remaining quantity
Mordant （B）	FeCl₃	10	pH=3.5 t=30 min T=25 ℃
	Hydroxyethyl Cellulose	1
	Hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium Bromide	0.5
	Distilled water	Remaining quantity
Colorant （C）	Chestnut shell pigment powder	12.9	pH=8.5 t=30 min T=45 ℃
	Carboxymethyl cellulose	1
	Distilled water	Remaining quantity

Dyeing method	L^*	a^*	b^*	c^*	h^*	抗拉强度/g
Bleached hair	72.96±0.59^a	4.17±0.59^a	27.90±1.66^a	28.22±1.59^a	81.45°±1.58°^a	79.78±5.39^a
Pre-mordanting	23.07±2.26^b	1.55±0.27^b	4.80±0.64^b	5.06±0.56^b	71.76°±4.65°^b	78.57±3.63^ab
Post-mordanting	40.77±0.90^c	0.55±0.23^c	12.05±0.63^c	12.07±0.63^c	87.34°±1.11°^c	75.22±3.58^b
Simultaneous mordanting	54.07±1.08^d	2.73±0.21^d	6.14±0.46^d	6.73±0.49^d	65.73°±2.62°^d	74.81±3.27^b

ρ/（g/mL）	L^*	a^*	b^*	c^*	h^*	Tensile strength/g
0.05	31.42±1.56^a	1.59±0.15^a	6.99±0.65^a	7.14±0.62^c	77.02°±1.84°^d	74.82±2.43^a
0.10	31.08±1.48^a	2.17±0.15^b	6.12±0.51^b	7.30±0.34^c	70.39°±1.73°^c	73.56±3.42^a
0.15	23.56±1.05^b	1.60±0.12^a	4.11±0.35^c	4.41±0.34^a	68.64°±1.87°^bc	74.70±3.74^a
0.20	24.98±2.34^bc	2.68±0.16^c	4.95±0.43^d	5.63±0.34^b	61.42°±3.23°^a	74.87±3.00^a
0.30	25.23±1.41^c	2.82±0.19^d	6.56±0.46^ab	7.14±0.43^c	66.67°±1.99°^b	74.75±2.39^a

Dying temperature/°C	L^*	a^*	b^*	c^*	h^*	Tensile strength/g
25	37.38±0.74^a	0.79±0.046^a	7.33±0.34^c	7.37±0.34^d	83.86°±0.42°^d	76.78±2.94^a
35	29.46±1.67^b	1.25±0.07^b	4.40±0.32^b	4.57±0.31^b	74.05°±1.26°^c	68.88±2.38^b
45	25.90±1.65^c	2.15±0.16^c	4.48±0.24^b	4.97±0.23^c	64.33°±0.17°^b	82.08±2.11^c
55	25.82±1.35^c	2.32±0.18^d	3.04±0.19^a	3.82±0.17^a	52.65°±3.01°^a	83.87±2.89^c

FeCl₃addition/%	L^*	a^*	b^*	c^*	h^*	Tensile strength/g
2	31.41±1.04^a	2.23±0.18^c	4.81±0.29^b	5.30±0.29^b	65.12°±2.03°^b	74.80±1.98^a
4	26.97±0.40^b	1.43±0.13^b	4.26±0.25^a	4.50±0.23^a	71.40°±2.13°^c	72.98±1.43^a
6	24.66±0.56^c	1.23±0.08^a	5.96±0.37^c	6.09±0.36^c	78.27°±1.12°^d	73.81±2.27^a
8	20.78±0.64^d	2.29±0.18^c	6.53±0.28^d	6.92±0.27^d	70.68°±1.67°^c	80.59±1.97^b
10	19.18±0.86^e	3.05±0.24^d	5.98±0.36^c	6.72±0.39^d	62.96°±1.55°^a	79.25±2.31^b

Application of chestnut shell pigment in hair dyes

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pH	L^*	a^*	b^*	c^*	h^*	Tensile strength/g
4.5	26.78±0.89^a	1.21±0.10^a	8.68±0.47^d	8.77±0.47^d	82.03°±0.71°^d	79.95±3.11^c
5.5	24.67±0.94^b	1.59±0.08^b	6.04±0.41^a	6.24±0.40^a	75.19°±1.13°^c	78.37±1.31^bc
6.5	22.74±0.92^d	2.21±0.20^c	8.15±0.58^c	8.45±0.59^d	74.80°±1.10°^c	79.46±3.13^c
7.5	22.55±1.34^d	2.67±0.18^d	7.11±0.42^b	7.60±0.45^c	69.44°±0.69°^b	77.16±1.22^ab
8.5	19.18±0.86^c	3.05±0.10^e	5.98±0.36^a	6.72±0.35^b	62.92°±1.23°^a	78.57±0.91^bc
9.5	23.46±0.81^d	3.56±0.28^f	9.20±0.72^e	9.88±0.63^e	68.75°±2.66°^b	76.09±1.85^a

Washing temperature/℃	dL^*	da^*	db^*	dc^*	dh^*	dE^*	Rate/%
25	0.146	0.238	-2.251	-2.120	-5.830°	2.268	-7.35
35	0.410	0.820	-2.540	-1.420	-7.960°	2.700	-8.85
45	0.965	0.760	-2.640	-1.348	-10.82°	2.912	-8.55
55	6.331	-0.277	-0.382	-0.415	1.876°	6.348	-8.84

Type	Time/h	dL^*	da^*	db^*	dc^*	dh^*	dE^*	Rate/%
UVA	10	0.317	0.495	0.699	0.792	-1.958°	0.914	-4.34
	20	0.390	0.710	0.930	1.068	-2.817°	1.233
	30	0.769	1.307	1.234	1.526	-5.498°	1.955
	40	0.797	1.466	1.769	2.085	-5.451°	2.432
	50	1.261	1.323	2.228	2.483	-4.109°	2.882
	60	1.308	1.622	2.610	2.934	-4.971°	3.340
UVB	10	0.232	0.245	0.909	0.938	-0.531°	0.969	-4.88
	20	1.163	0.839	2.009	2.135	-2.676°	2.468
	30	1.281	1.127	2.348	2.531	-3.783°	2.902
	40	1.237	1.349	2.458	2.692	-4.788°	3.065
	50	1.305	1.377	2.751	2.982	-4.546°	3.342
	60	1.131	1.366	2.759	2.988	-4.478°	3.280

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