洁面产品用表面活性剂的分类及应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.06.012

Abstract

Abstract:

Surfactants can play the roles of emulsification, foaming, detergency and thickening in cleansing products. Their dosages are usually 10%-15%. Surfactants are important raw materials of facial cleaning products, which have important influences on the performance of cleansing products, such as cleanliness, mildness and skin feeling experience. To adapt to the development trend of facial cleaning products, the application of surfactants has gradually changed from single chemical properties to diverse properties and greenness and environmental protection. Herein, based on the classification and application of surfactants for facial cleaning products, the development status, performance and application of different types of surfactants were explained and analyzed. Furthermore, the bottleneck problems and application challenges in the process of their development and evolution were summarized. Finally, the future development trend was prospected. This review might provide effective reference for the high-quality development of cleansing products.

Key words: cleansing product, surfactant, application, green development

CLC Number:

TQ423

Yang Xiufen. Classification and application of surfactants in cleansing products[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(6): 656-663.

Figures/Tables 7

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References 49

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产品剂型	性能特点	适用范围
洁面膏	质地厚,泡沫丰富, 洁净力强	油性、混合性不敏感肌肤
洁面乳	温和滋润,泡沫丰富	各种皮肤
洁面凝胶	更为清爽,温和	敏感性和干性肌肤
洁面慕斯	配方简单,无残留, 泵口包装	各种皮肤

表面活性剂	配方中的作用	常用类别
阴离子型表面活性剂	发泡、湿润、分离、乳化	硫酸盐、磺酸盐、磷酸盐和羧酸盐等
两性离子型表面活性剂	柔软、抗静电、乳化、杀菌	氨基酸、磺基甜菜碱和咪唑啉等
非离子型表面活性剂	乳化、湿润、发泡	烷基糖苷、乙二醇酯和甘油酯等

表面活性剂	优点	缺点
皂基型表面活性剂	优异清洗能力、易漂洗	不耐硬水、对皮肤有刺激
氨基酸型表面活性剂	温和、低刺激、对环境友好	成本高、增稠难
复配型表面活性剂	多功能性,兼具皂基型和氨基酸型优点	成本高、研发有难度

生物表面活性剂	结构组成	配方中的作用	优点
糖脂	长链或羟基脂肪酸与糖基片段的组合	乳化剂、润湿剂、增稠剂、发泡剂	优异的耐盐性和耐高温性原料成本低、产率高
脂肽	脂肪酸、肽链连接组成	乳化剂、增溶剂、发泡剂、抑泡剂、分散剂、黏度调节剂	优异的生物降解性、抗菌性、自身刺激性小
磷脂	含有磷酸根的类脂类化合物	抗氧化性、乳化和分散作用	对皮肤具有良好的润湿和渗透作用

洁面产品配方体系	优点	技术难点
洁面产品配方体系	优点	稳定性	流变性	泡沫	冲洗后肤感	工艺
皂基洁面体系（脂肪酸钾盐）	易起泡、起泡多、易冲洗、清洁强、肌肤清爽	温度影响的储存/循环的稳定性	过稀或过稠影响使用	起泡速度、泡沫丰度	肌肤涩感明显、皮肤感觉较干	皂化程度
氨基酸洁面体系	温和无毒、清洁高效、肌肤柔软	温度影响稳定性的影响;特殊体系、化学特性的稳定性	稀、稠受温度影响较大	泡沫丰度、泡沫细腻度	铺展性、化水性、残留性	溶解度高低

Classification and application of surfactants in cleansing products

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