葡萄籽发酵液的护肤功效及安全性研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.006

Abstract

Abstract:

Grape-seed fermentation broth was obtained by fermenting grape seeds with red wine yeast. The active ingredients in grape-seed fermentation broth and water extract were analyzed by experiment testing. The results showed that the protein （3.13±0.036） g/L and polysaccharides （0.36±0.015） g/L in grape-seed fermentation broth were significantly more than in the water extract （P<0.05）. It indicated that yeast fermentation could significantly increase the content of active ingredients in the extraction liquid. The effects of grape-seed fermentation liquid and water extract on the scavenging ability of ABTS ⁺·and DPPH were studied to evaluate their antioxidant capacities. It was found that the IC₅₀ of grape-seed fermentation broth to ABTS ⁺· and DPPH free radicals were 0.322% and 1.448%, respectively, and the IC₅₀ of grape-seed water extract to ABTS ⁺·and DPPH free radicals were 0.358% and 1.707%, respectively. Meanwhile, there was significant difference between the abilities of fermentation broth and water extract to scavenge free radicals （P<0.05）. The potential skin care efficacy of grape-seed fermentation liquid was evaluated by investigating the effects on fibroblasts and human immortalized keratinocytes （Hacat）. Chorioallantoic membrane-trypan blue staining and human skin patch test were used to evaluate the irritation of grape-seed fermentation liquid to eyes and skin. It showed that grape-seed fermentation liquid had potential anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects, and it was basically non-irritating to eyes or skin.

Key words: grape seed, fermentation, antioxidant, skin care, safety

CLC Number:

TQ658

LIU Ping-ping,XU Dan-ni,ZHAO Dan,AN Quan,WANG Chang-tao,LI Meng. Study on the skin care efficacy and safety of the grape-seed fermentation liquid[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(3): 200-207.

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References 18

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基因	方向	引物
ERK1	F	CTA CAC GCA GTT GCA GTA CAT
ERK1	R	CAG CAG GAT CTG GAT CTC CC
IL-6	F	GAC AGC CAC TCA CCT CTT CA
IL-6	R	TTC ACC AGG CAA GTC TCC TC
IL-8	F	TCA GAG ACA GCA GAG CAC AC
IL-8	R	GGC AAA ACT GCA CCT TCA CA
TNF-α	F	AGG ACA GAA GAG CAA CTG AGA TCG
TNF-α	R	TTG GGA TGC TGA CAC TC CAT GCA

试剂	体积/μL
2×SuperReal PreMix Plus	10.0
F	0.3
R	0.3
50×ROX Reference Dye	0.25
cDNA	1.0
RNase-free ddH₂O	8.15

D值/nmol	刺激性分级
0≤D值≤7	无/轻度刺激
7<D值≤12	中度刺激
D值>12	重度/极重度刺激

反应程度	评分等级	皮肤反应
—	0	阴性反应
±	1	可疑反应;仅有微弱红斑
+	2	弱阳性反应（红斑反应）;红斑、浸润、水肿、可有丘疹
+ +	3	强阳性反应（疱疹反应）;红斑、浸润、水肿、丘疹、疱疹;反应可超出受试区
+ + +	4	极强阳性反应（融合性疱疹反应）;明显红斑、严重浸润、水肿、融合性疱疹;反应超出受试区

样品	ρ（活性成分）/（g·L^-1）
样品	原花青素	黄酮	多糖	蛋白质
水提液	0.41±0.012	0.94±0.02	0.21±0.023	2.59±0.027
发酵液	0.43±0.015	0.86±0.031	0.36±0.015^*	3.13±0.036^*

Study on the skin care efficacy and safety of the grape-seed fermentation liquid

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References 18

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样品	D值/nmol	刺激性分级
生理盐水	0	无/轻度刺激
1% SDS	20.808	重度/极重度刺激
葡萄籽发酵液	2.394	无/轻度刺激

样品名称	反应等级	反应人数/例
样品名称	反应等级	30 min后	24 h后	48 h后
空白对照组	0	30	30	30
	1	—	—	—
	2	—	—	—
	3	—	—	—
	4	—	—	—
葡萄籽发酵液	0	26	27	29
	1	3	3	1
	2	1	—	—
	3	—	—	—
	4	—	—	—

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