化妆品植物原料（Ⅱ）——抑制酪氨酸酶活性的植物美白原料的研究与开发

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.002

Abstract

Abstract:

Melanogenesis is a primary cause responsible for the pigmentation of human skin and hair. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin biosynthetic pathway. Inhibition of tyrosinase activity is one of the main strategies to reduce the formation of melanin in the skin. Here we reviewed the melanin biosynthetic pathway, the differences between mushroom tyrosinase （mTYR） and human tyrosinase （hTYR）, mechamisms of tyrosinase inhibition, and the plant extracts and monomer components that inhibit tyrosinase activity. The active plant components that inhibit tyrosinases include hydroquinone and its derivatives, benzaldehyde and benzoate derivatives, phenethyls, phenylpropanoids, stilbenes and their derivatives, flavonoids, polyphenols and quinones, which contain the benzene ring or phenolic hydroxy group in their structures. The correlation between the structure of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant extracts and tyrosinase inhibitory activity was discussed, hoping to provide help for relevant researches.

Key words: plant extracts, skin whitening cosmetics, mushroom tyrosinase, human tyrosinase, inhibitors

CLC Number:

TQ658

REN Qian-qian,WU Hua,JIN Jian-ming. Botanical cosmetic ingredient （Ⅱ）Research and development of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant extracts in skin whitening[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(3): 178-185.

Figures/Tables 6

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抑制常数	抑制剂	对蘑菇酪氨酸酶的抑制值/（μmol·L^-1）	对人酪氨酸酶的抑制值/（μmol·L^-1）	参考文献
K_i	曲酸	4.3	350	[12]
	苯甲酸	4.6	520	[12]
	1-氧代-2-羟基吡啶	1.8	128	[13]
IC₅₀	曲酸	6.0	500	[14]
	对苯二酚	1.1	4 400	[14]
	β-熊果苷	40	6 500	[14]
	间苯二酚	652	>3 000	[14]
	4-N-丁基间苯二酚	0.6	21	[14]
	4-己基间苯二酚	1.2	94	[14]
	二甲氧基甲苯基-4-丙基间苯二酚	0.24	无活性	[14]
	6,7-二羟基香豆素	4.3	无活性	[12]

Botanical cosmetic ingredient （Ⅱ）Research and development of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant extracts in skin whitening

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