新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用（Ⅵ）——微乳液

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.02.003

Abstract

Abstract:

Microemulsion （ME） is an isotropic and thermodynamic stable dispersion system formed spontaneously by water, oil, surfactant and cosurfactant in a certain proportion. The particle size of microemulsion is very small （usually 10-100 nm） and microemulsion has excellent solubilization. It can not only protect the solubilized components but also slow release the solubilized components. At the same time, microemulsion apt to promote the transdermal absorption of solubilized components and thus improve their bioavailability. Thus the microemulsion is considered as an ideal system for the preservation and transportation of active ingredients. The microemulsion has wide application in many fields, such as cosmetics, biomedicine and so on. In this paper, the microemulsion and its formation mechanism are introduced in detail firstly. Then the preparation methods of microemulsion are summarized and the key factors of affecting the formation and properties of microemulsion are stated. Furthermore, the performance advantages of microemulsion are listed and the special microemulsions, including surfactant-free microemulsion, ionic liquid microemulsion as well as low-eutectic solvent microemulsions were introduced. On this basis, the research and application of microemulsion in the field of cosmetics were reviewed. Finally, the limitations of the application of microemulsion in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, hoping to provide reference for the practical application of microemulsion in the field of cosmetics and basis for the development of functional cosmetics with excellent performance.

Key words: microemulsion, cosmetics, solubilization

CLC Number:

TQ658

Kangfu Zhou, Yixuan Zhi, Feifei Wang, Yazhuo Shang. New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （VI）Microemulsion[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 139-148.

Figures/Tables 5

Tab. 1

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

References 50

[1]	Danielsson I, Lindman B. The definition of microemulsion[J]. Colloids and Surfaces, 1981, 3 (4) : 391-392. doi: 10.1016/0166-6622(81)80064-9
[2]	Prince L M. A theory of aqueous emulsions I. Negative interfacial tension at the oil/water interface[J]. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 1967, 23 (2) : 165-173. doi: 10.1016/0021-9797(67)90099-9
[3]	Hoar T P, Schulman J H. Transparent water in oil dispersions: the oleopathic hydro-micelle[J]. Nature, 1943, 152: 102-103. doi: 10.1038/152102a0
[4]	Han Yujiao. Study on desorption performance of in situ microemulsion for mixed chlorinated hydrocarbons in aquifer[D]. Changchun: Jilin University, 2023.
[5]	Feng Yun, Shi Jing, Bao Jie, et al. Common cosmetic preparation technologies (Ⅰ): Oil-water mixture: Emulsions[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52 (7) : 696-703.
[6]	Burguera J L, Burguera M. Analytical applications of emulsions and microemulsions[J]. Talanta, 2012 (96) : 11-20.
[7]	Patel M R, Patel R B, Parikh J R, et al. Novel microemulsion-based gel formulation of tazarotene for therapy of acne[J]. Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2016, 21 (8) : 921-932. pmid: 26334480
[8]	Chaiyana W, Leelapornpisid P, Phongpradist R, et al. Enhancement of antioxidant and skin moisturizing effects of olive oil by incorporation into microemulsions[J]. Nanomaterials and Nanotechnology, 2016, 6: 1-8. doi: 10.5772/62161
[9]	Capek I. Degradation of kinetically-stable O/W emulsions[J]. Advances in Colloid and Interface Science, 2004 (107) : 125-155.
[10]	Wiencek J M, Qutuvuddin S. Microemulsion liquid membranes. Ⅱ. Copper ion removal from buffered and unbuffered aqueous feed[J]. Separation Science and Technology, 1992, 27 (11) : 1407-1422. doi: 10.1080/01496399208019433
[11]	Devi N, Sukla L B. Studies on liquid-liquid extraction of yttrium and separation from other rare earth elements using bifunctional ionic liquids[J]. Mineral Processing and Extractive Metallurgy Review, 2019, 40 (1) : 46-55. doi: 10.1080/08827508.2018.1481058
[12]	Sathishkumar M, Jeong E S, Yun S E, et al. Bicontinuous microemulsion as reaction medium for the β-glucosidase-catalyzed synthesis of n-hexyl-β-dglucopyranoside[J]. Enzyme and Microbial Technology, 2008, 42 (3) : 252-258. doi: 10.1016/j.enzmictec.2007.10.011
[13]	Vold R D. Microemulsions, theory and practice[J]. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 1978, 65 (3) : 595. doi: 10.1016/0021-9797(78)90119-4
[14]	Schrader P, Andres C C, Enders S. Phase behavior of the water+nonionic surfactant (C₁₂E₈)+1-dodecene ternary system across a wide temperature range[J]. Chemical Engineering Science, 2013, 93 (42) : 131-139. doi: 10.1016/j.ces.2012.08.020
[15]	Mao Xuebin, Du Zhiping, Tai Xiumei, et al. Progress in research work field with respect to theory and application of microemulsion[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2016, 46 (11) : 648-653, 660.
[16]	Yong Hong, Guo Yiguang, Miao Yulian, et al. A review of research on microemulsion and its application in cosmetics[J]. Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics, 2015 (1) : 58-62.
[17]	Guo Jintang, Yu Qianfeng, Huang Yancui, et al. Compounding of antibacterial plant essential oil and preparation of its micro-emulsion[J]. Journal of Tianjin University, 2015 (5) : 415-421.
[18]	Wang Mian. Phase behavior and solubilization of AEO-9 nonionic surfactant microemulsion system[D]. Beijing: China University of Petrolum, 2021.
[19]	Gradzielski M, Duvail M, Malo De M P, et al. Using microemulsions: formulation based on knowledge of their mesostructure[J]. Chemical Reviews, 2021, 121 (10) : 5671-5740. doi: 10.1021/acs.chemrev.0c00812 pmid: 33955731
[20]	Phan T, Attaphong C, Sabatini D. Effect of extended surfactant structure on interfacial tension and microemulsion formation with triglycerides[J]. Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society, 2011, 88 (8) : 1223-1228. doi: 10.1007/s11746-011-1784-1
[21]	Huber V, Muller L, Degot P, et al. Nades-based surfactant-free microemulsions for solubilization and extraction of curcumin from curcuma longa[J]. Food Chemistry, 2021, 355: 129624. doi: 10.1016/j.foodchem.2021.129624
[22]	Zhang Linhan, Critzer F, Davidson P M, et al. Formulating essential oil microemulsions as washing solutions for organic fresh produce production[J]. Food Chemistry, 2014, 165: 113-118. doi: 10.1016/j.foodchem.2014.05.115 pmid: 25038656
[23]	Liu Wenjiao, Pan Ning, Han Ying, et al. Solubilization, stability and antioxidant activity of curcumin in a novel surfactant-free microemulsion system[J]. LWT-Food Science and Technology, 2021, 147: 111583. doi: 10.1016/j.lwt.2021.111583
[24]	Dhingra D, Bisht M, Bhawna B, et al. Enhanced solubility and improved stability of curcumin in novel water-in-deep eutectic solvent microemulsions[J]. Journal of Molecular Liquids, 2021, 339.
[25]	Chen Huaiqiong, Zhong Qixin. Thermal and UV stability of β-carotene dissolved in peppermint oil microemulsified by sunflower lecithin and Tween 20 blend[J]. Food Chemistry, 2015, 174: 630-636. doi: 10.1016/j.foodchem.2014.11.116 pmid: 25529729
[26]	Ma Huixian, Yu Meng, Tan Fengping, et al. Improved percutaneous delivery of azelaic acid employing microemulsion as nanocarrier: formulation optimization, in vitro and in vivo evaluation[J]. RSC Advances, 2015, 5 (37) : 28985-28995. doi: 10.1039/C5RA00713E
[27]	Lv Xia, Zhang Shuguang, Ma Huipeng, et al. In situ monitoring of the structural change of microemulsions in simulated gastrointestinal conditions by SAXS and FRET[J]. Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica B, 2018, 8 (4) : 655-665. doi: 10.1016/j.apsb.2018.05.008 pmid: 30109189
[28]	Raval N, Khunt D, Misra M. Microemulsion-based delivery of triamcinolone acetonide to posterior segment of eye using chitosan and butter oil as permeation enhancer: an in vitro and in vivo investigation[J]. Journal of Microencapsulation, 2018, 35 (1) : 62-77. doi: 10.1080/02652048.2018.1425750 pmid: 29307286
[29]	Shi Weiwei, Yan Ruixiang, Huang Liqiang. Preparation and insecticidal performance of sustained-release cinnamon essential oil microemulsion[J]. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 2022, 102 (4) : 1397-1404. doi: 10.1002/jsfa.v102.4
[30]	Feng Junli, Wang Zhengwu, Zhang Juan, et al. Study on food-grade vitamin E microemulsions based on nonionic emulsifiers[J]. Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects, 2009, 339 (1-3) : 1-6. doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2009.01.002
[31]	Mirgorodskaya A B, Koroleva M Y, Kushnazarova R A, et al. Microemulsions and nanoemulsions modified with cationic surfactants for improving the solubility and therapeutic efficacy of loaded drug indomethacin[J]. Nanotechnology, 2022, 33 (15) : 155103. doi: 10.1088/1361-6528/ac467d
[32]	Unsal E, Broens M, Armstrong R. Pore scale dynamics of microemulsion formation[J]. Langmuir, 2016, 32 (28) : 7096-7108. doi: 10.1021/acs.langmuir.6b00821 pmid: 27336294
[33]	Zhang Yongqiang, Cao Yingying, Meng Xiangzhan, et al. Enhancement of transdermal delivery of artemisinin using microemulsion vehicle based on ionic liquid and lidocaine ibuprofen[J]. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, 2020, 189: 110886. doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2020.110886
[34]	Das S, Lee S H, Chow P S, et al. Microemulsion composed of combination of skin beneficial oils as vehicle: development of resveratrol-loaded microemulsion based formulations for skin care applications[J]. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, 2020, 194: 11161.
[35]	Chang Naifang, Tsai Fengjie, Zheng Yamin, et al. Using a cellular system to directly assess the effects of cosmetic microemulsion encapsulated DeoxyArbutin[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2021, 22 (23) : 13110. doi: 10.3390/ijms222313110
[36]	Bajaj H, Bisht S, Yadav M, et al. Design and development of Neviraping loaded surfactant free chitosan microemulsion[J]. Acta Poloniae Pharmaceutica-Drug Research, 2011, 68 (6) : 981-988.
[37]	Domanska U, Pobudkowska A, Pelczarska A, et al. pKa and solubility of drugs in water, ethanol, and 1-octanol[J]. The Journal of Physical Chemistry B, 2009, 113 (26) : 8941-8947. doi: 10.1021/jp900468w
[38]	Liu Wenjiao, Pan Ning, Han Ying, et al. Solubilization, stability and antioxidant activity of curcumin in a novel surfactant-free microemulsion system[J]. LWT-Food Science and Technology, 2021, 147: 111583. doi: 10.1016/j.lwt.2021.111583
[39]	Han Ying. Formation mechanism of surfactant-free microemulsions and their applications in material synthesis, drug solubilization, and gel preparation[D]. Jinan: Shandong Normal University, 2023.
[40]	Gao Haixiang, Li Junchun, Han Buxing, et al. Microemulsions with ionic liquid polar domains[J]. Physical Chemistry Chemical Physics, 2004, 6 (11) : 2914-2916. doi: 10.1039/b402977a
[41]	Fischer V, Marcus J, Touraud D, et al. Toward surfactant-free and water-free microemulsions[J]. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 2015, 453: 186-193. doi: S0021-9797(15)00448-8 pmid: 25985422
[42]	Sakuragi M, Tsutsumi S, Kusakabe K. Deep eutectic solvent-induced structural transition of microemulsions explored with small-angle X-ray scattering[J]. Langmuir, 2018, 34 (42) : 12635-12641. doi: 10.1021/acs.langmuir.8b02565 pmid: 30251861
[43]	Manyala D, Varade D. Formation and characterization of microemulsion with novel anionic sodium N-lauroylsarcosinate for personal care[J]. Journal of Molecular Liquids, 2021, 343: 117657. doi: 10.1016/j.molliq.2021.117657
[44]	Luo Yulu, Meng Qin. Preparation of rhamnolipids microemulsion and its application in cosmetics[J]. Chemical Reaction Engineering and Technology, 2020, 36 (5) : 466-472.
[45]	Kitaoka M, Nguyen T C, Goto M. Water-in-oil microemulsions composed of monoolein enhanced the transdermal delivery of nicotinamide[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2021, 43 (3).
[46]	Huang Binbin, Hu Bo, Wu Xiaosheng, et al. A microemulsion with moisturizing, brightening and anti-aging effcts and its preparation: CN 111407678[P]. 2020-07-14.
[47]	Wolfgang B, Janice B. Hair-treating microemulsion composition and method of preparing and using the same: EP0455185 [P]. 1991-12-31.
[48]	Luo Fasong, Xie Peizheng, Cao Wendan. Preparation and application in shampoo of aminosilicone micro-emulsion[J]. Guangdong Chemical Industry, 2010, 37 (9) : 43-45.
[49]	Chen Bin, Zhou Qian, Huang Xiaode, et al. A natural plant essential oil microemulsion and its preparation method and application: CN113491646A[P]. 2021-10-12.
[50]	Su Jinfeng, Zhang Huanyi, Lin Jinxiong. A composition of a bicontinuous microemulsion and its application: CN112826762A[P]. 2021-05-25.

Parameter	Microemulsion	Nanoemulsion	Emulsion
Formation	Spontaneous	Ultrasonic and high pressure homogenization	Mechanical or manual agitation
Stable	Thermodynamically	Kinetically	Kinetically
Droplet size/μm	0.01~0.10	0.05~0.50	0.5~50
Appearance	Transparent	Transparent or opaque	Opaque （cloudy）
Surface area/ （m²/g）	High （200）	Moderate （50~100）	Low （15）
Interfacial tension	Ultra low	Low	Low
System type	W/O, O/W and bicontinuous	W/O or O/W	W/O, O/W or W/O/W and O/W/O
Surfactant concentration	High	Moderate	Low
Co-surfactant type	Short chain alcohol	Long-chain alcohol	None

New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （VI）Microemulsion

RichHTML

PDF (PC)

Like

Knowledge

Abstract

Cite this article

share this article

Figures/Tables 5

References 50

Related Articles 15

Metrics

Comments

Recommended 10

[1]	Jingxuan Liu, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu. Botanical cosmetic ingredients （VII）Research and development of plant antifungal [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 259-266.
[2]	Wu Bi, Xiaohong Pan, Xiaoqin Tu, Shuai Yin, Hui Sun. Analysis of the mechanism of anti-sensitive skin effect of cosmetic raw material Stephania tetrandra based on network pharmacology [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 305-312.
[3]	Yaoyao Li. Study on the anti-aging and antioxidant effects of isosinensetin [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 313-319.
[4]	Liyuan Zhang, Linqi Yan, Qiaoyuan Cheng, Lvye Qi, Rong Wang, Liuqian Huang. Determination of 14 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and hydroxy esters in cosmetics [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 353-359.
[5]	Wei Xu, Po Zou, Changyu Li, Ming Yang, Yan Lu, Huiliang Li. Determination of 36 stimulants in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 360-368.
[6]	Zhen Xie, Wei Huang, Jinsong Zhang, Shuhuai Chen, Linji Qu, Rong Kuang. Study on biomarkers of corneal injury in the evaluation of eye irritation of cosmetics [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 161-167.
[7]	Xiaohong Pan, Ziqi Gao, Zhen Chen, Shuai Yin, Haiping Huang, Bin Hu. Discussion on the current situation of research and management on the stability of cosmetic products in China [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 201-208.
[8]	Li Lu, Fang Fang, Youlong Feng, Ling Cao. Screening for illegal addition of sulfonamides in cosmetic products using ultra-performance liquid chromatographytriple quadrupoletandem mass spectrometry with precursor ion scanning [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 216-223.
[9]	Ren Wang, Yuanyang Wu, Jia Qiao, Linqi Yan, Cen Chen, Liyuan Zhang. Study on phenoxyethanol content in children’s cosmetics on the mark and preliminary risk assessment [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 224-230.
[10]	Yixiang Lu, Liting Wu, Jimin Jiang, Hailu Chen, Xuan Huang. Determination of tolnaftate and liranaftate in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography and verification by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 231-238.
[11]	Liyuan Zhang, Qiaoyuan Cheng, Cen Chen, Zehua Li, Liuqian Huang, Lvye Qi. Determination of 3 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and their esters in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(1): 102-106.
[12]	Linling Lu, Hui Lu, Chunyan Min, Yefei Qian. Determination of functional components of Glycyrrhizae, Ginseng and Scutellariae in facial masks by UHPLC-MS/MS [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(1): 107-113.
[13]	Xu Han, Jiajia Wu, Na Wu, Yazhuo Shang. New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （V） Janus emulsion [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(1): 24-31.
[14]	Feng Liu, Yuanchang Deng, Guohong Ying, Xiaowei Wang. Establishment of duplex-PCR method for rapid detection of Pluralibacter gergoviae [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(1): 45-50.
[15]	Yaru Wang, Tingyuan Mo, Hongxia Lai, Yue Zhou, Jiaying Xie, Jianhua Tan. Analysis of the causes of skin irritation of niacinamide cosmetics based on patch test and stability test [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(1): 51-56.