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China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics ›› 2024, Vol. 54 ›› Issue (1): 80-89.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.011

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Advances of functional components in whitening cosmetic

Ning Li1,2,Ennian Li2,Hongbo Chen3,Fang Cheng3,Hengfang Zou2,Hongpeng Chen1,2,*()   

  1. 1. School of Traditional Chinese Medicine Resources, Guangdong Pharmaceutical University, Yunfu, Guangdong 527322, China
    2. Guangzhou Lthink Medical Bio-technology Co., Ltd., Guangzhou, Guangdong 511450, China
    3. School of Pharmaceutical Sciences (Shenzhen), Sun Yat-Sen University, Shenzhen, Guangdong 518107, China
  • Received:2022-12-31 Revised:2023-12-27 Online:2024-01-22 Published:2024-01-26
  • Contact: *Tel.: +86-13922096752, E-mail: chenhongpeng007@126.com.

Abstract:

Excessive accumulation of melanin pigments may result in skin-related disorders such as post inflammatory pigmentation, solar lentigo, melasma and freckles. The mechanism of action of whitening cosmetics is related to the inhibition of melanin synthesis, reduction of melanin, and inhibition of melanosome transport. The whitening raw materials in spot-removing and whitening cosmetics achieve whitening effects by inhibiting the rate-limiting enzyme tyrosinase of the melanin biosynthesis pathway, participating in the regulation of the melanin biosynthesis signaling pathway, and reducing melanin or inhibiting melanosome transport and other mechanisms of action. With the increasing market demand for spot-removing and whitening cosmetics, more and more natural active ingredients are added to the cosmetics as whitening raw materials, but there are problems such as unclear composition and missing mechanism of action. In sequence to provide a theoretical foundation for the clinical strategy of skin pigmentation prevention and treatment as well as the product development of whitening cosmetics, the action mechanisms of the existing whitening cosmetic efficacy components cosmetics are sorted out and discussed in this paper.

Key words: melanin, whitening cosmetics, tyrosinase

CLC Number: 

  • TQ658