头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅵ）——头皮油脂的特点及调控手段

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.06.004

Abstract

Abstract:

Scalp health has been increasingly focused by the consumers while choosing hair products. Scalp sebum is one of the key factors affecting scalp health. Sebum is an important component of the scalp barrier, which plays the roles of protecting the skin, preserving moisture and maintaining skin homeostasis. It is secreted by the sebaceous glands. Sebaceous glands are located in the dermis and produce sebum through holocrine secretion. There are a large number of receptors on sebaceous glands, which are regulated by a variety of mechanisms. Abnormality in functions of sebaceous glands can lead to a variety of diseases and a series of scalp health problems. Herein, the functions and characteristics of sebum and sebaceous glands are summarized. Several current theories of sebum regulation are introduced. The experimental evaluation methods of sebum secretion are summarized. The raw materials of oil-control products on the market and their mechanisms are also summarized, which might provide reference both for the skin care problems related to the functions of sebaceous glands and the development of oil-control products.

Key words: sebum, glandula sebacea, regulate and control, evaluation method, oil control

CLC Number:

TQ658

Wan Kaibo, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅵ）Characteristics and regulation of scalp sebum[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(6): 634-641.

Figures/Tables 8

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References 53

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	控油原料	控油原理	参考文献
清洁吸附类	深海泥、硅藻土、表面活性剂	清除已产生的皮脂	[44]
抑制微生物类	ZPT、二硫化硒	抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌、马拉色菌的定殖	[45,46]
锌剂	酵母菌/锌发酵产物、PCA锌、透明质酸锌	锌可能具有抗雄激素活性，抑制皮脂过度产生	[47,48]
植物提取类	黄酮、皂苷、多酚	拮抗雄激素、抑制5-α还原酶、作用于相应的受体和通路	[35?-37]
维生素类	VB3及其衍生物、Vc	紧致肌肤、缩小毛孔的、抑制以葡萄糖底物合成脂质的反应	[49,50]
酸类	维A酸及其衍生物、壬二酸、水杨酸	作用于相应的受体、对角质的形成增生起到抑制作用、限制皮脂腺的分化	[51?-53]

Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅵ）Characteristics and regulation of scalp sebum

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