适应原植物在皮肤健康领域研究现状及展望

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.03.011

Abstract

Abstract:

Adaptogenic plants are a class of medicinal plants that can non-specifically enhance human resistance, act in multiple ways and with multiple targets, and affect the neuro-endocrine-immune system. The species resources of adaptive plants are abundant. At present, there are relatively complete researches on the effect of its oral administration on the human body, but there are few studies providing its external useon the skin. Based on bibliometrics, patent analysis and mechanisms of efficacy of adaptogenic plants in cosmetic applications, this paper finds out that the effect of adaptogenic plants on the skin are mainly focusing on anti-aging. It is further speculated that the common mechanism may be the direct action on the skin, affecting the central HPA-like axis involved in CRH in the skin; or it can directly act on the antioxidant defense system in skin cells and inhibit cell damage caused by oxidative stress. This study can provide a theoretical basis for the application of adaptogenic plants in the field of skin health. And getting fully use of the wide variety of high-value adaptogenic plant resources is also conducive to the better development of the cosmetic industry in China.

Key words: adaptogenic plants, skin health, anti-aging, bibliometrics

CLC Number:

TQ658

Liu Xiaoxing, Chen Chunyu, Li Li, Yi Fan. Research status and prospect of adaptogenic plants in skin health[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(3): 325-332.

Figures/Tables 12

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References 44

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活性成分化学结构分类	代表性适应原植物	主要活性成分
具有四环骨架的化合物	人参、睡茄	人参皂苷、睡茄内酯
木脂素及其苷类	五味子、刺五加	五味子乙素、刺五加皂苷E
苯丙烷衍生物	红景天、刺五加	肉桂醇苷、紫丁香苷
苯乙烷衍生物	红景天	酪醇、红景天苷
消散素的结构类似物^[10]	玛卡^[11]	氧化脂质

适应原植物原料	化妆品产品	原料功效
人参	羽西人参塑颜御颜修护系列、雪花秀滋如珍人参凝时精华露、谷雨山参紧致凝时修护面霜	抗衰老
	美素日夜珍宠肌活再生人参精华液、丁家宜美白保湿去黄淡斑霜	美白
	飘柔人参滋养修护免洗柔顺乳、玛丽黛佳人参精华露	保湿
	吕滋养韧发密集强韧洗发水、章华防脱洗发乳	防脱发
睡茄	植绘睡茄修护眼精华液、美康粉黛密集修护精华液	抗氧化抗衰
五味子	后拱辰享水沄平衡系列、至本舒颜修护系列	抗氧化
刺五加	SK-Ⅱ赋活修护系列、黛珂AQ珍萃精颜系列	抗氧化
红景天	SK-Ⅱ多元焕颜精华霜、娇韵诗花样年华日间霜	抗衰老
红景天	宫灯红景天美肌系列	保湿

分类	检索词	Web of Science/篇	总计/篇
皮肤	Adaptogen+skin Adaptogen+dermatological	12 2	14
抗衰老	Adaptogen+aging Adaptogen+anti-oxidation Adaptogen+ROS	43 1 11	55
美白	Adaptogen+whitening	1	1
保湿	Adaptogen+moisture	2	2
敏感	Adaptogen+sensitivity	5	5

排序	国家	发文量
1	美国	10
2	瑞典	9
3	印度	9
4	韩国	5
5	德国	5

适应原植物	作用机制	作用于皮肤功效
人参	①通过PPARδ增加Ⅰ型胶原蛋白的表达；②降低MMP-1 mRNA或蛋白表达水平	抗衰老^[18,19]
	①抑制黑色素生成的关键酶（酪氨酸酶、DCT）；②抑制黑色素生成的信号通路（PKA、PKC）；③促进抗黑色素生成因子（IL-13）的产生	美白^[20]
	①通过阻断IKKβ下调NF-κB通路；②通过抑制TBK1下调IRF3通路；③下调诱导型NO合成酶、TNF-α、COX基因表达水平	抗炎^[21,22]
	①诱导HAS1上调和HA生成	保湿^[23]
睡茄	①清除自由基；②促进DNA合成和细胞增殖，下调p21水平	抗氧化^[24?-26]
睡茄	①减少促炎细胞因子（TNF-α和IL-6）释放；②调节Fox03a-Akt依赖性NF-κB/IKK介导的炎症级联反应，抑制TGF-β/Smad信号转导	抗炎^[27,28]
五味子	①抑制ROS的产生；②激活抗氧化防御系统；③抑制促氧化酶活性；④阻断Ca²⁺通道，影响线粒体功能，防止细胞死亡	抗衰老^[6]
	①抑制COX-2，IL-6和IL-18炎症信号通路；②降低血清TNF-α水平；③抑制NF-κB信号转导通路	抗炎^[29,30]
	①抑制酪氨酸酶活性和MITF表达水平	美白^[31]
刺五加	①抑制MiR135b和增加Ⅳ型胶原表达，增加角质形成细胞的增殖潜能；②具有抗自由基抗氧化活性	抗衰老^[32,33]
刺五加	①抑制COX-2活性；②抑制AP-1和NF-κB的活性	抗炎^[34,35]
红景天	①时间、剂量依赖性地增加氧化还原酶活性；②抗氧化，抑制MMP-1产生	抗衰老^[36,37]
	①修复皮肤屏障功能，减少透皮失水（TWEL）；②抑制IL-6、IL-8、TNF和NF-κB的表达	抗炎^[7,38]
	①抑制酪氨酸酶活性，减少黑色素生成	美白^[39]

Research status and prospect of adaptogenic plants in skin health

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