基于油凝胶的天然赋色唇膏的制备及性能研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.005

Abstract

Abstract:

The effects of mass fraction of emulsifier on the physicochemical properties of beeswax oleogel lipstick were investigated. To prepare the oleogel loaded with natural pigment, corn oil was selected as the solvent, beeswax was used as the gelling agent, glycerin monostearate （GMS） with different mass fractions was added as the emulsifier, and β-carotene was used as the representative functional factor. The relationships between the crystal morphology, rheology, texture and thermodynamic properties of the oleogel and the encapsulation and stability of the pigment were investigated, and the application performance as a lipstick was analyzed. It was found that, with increasing mass fraction of GMS, the oleogel had higher storage modulus （G′）, higher loss modulus （G″） and higher yield stress. The oleogels were dominated by β′ crystal form, and the oleogel containing 4% GMS had the largest crystal plane spacing, the largest crystal grain size and the largest crystallinity. The thixotropic recovery of the oleogel with 4% GMS was 17.36%, and it had the highest encapsulation rate （65.51%） and stability （retention of 82.20% after 12 h of light） for β-carotene. The lipstick with 4% GMS mass fraction had good overall performance. The results of this work had wide applicability and were of guiding significance for the development of natural lipstick products.

Key words: oleogel, β-carotene, glycerin monostearate, lipstick, beeswax

CLC Number:

TQ658.5

Wang Run, Gong Yuxin, Zhang Ruoning, Mao Like. Preparation and properties of natural colored lipstick based on oleogels[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(10): 1147-1155.

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名称	质量/g
蜂蜡	20
V_E	0.5
色素	3
GMS	0	2	4	6
玉米油	76.5	74.5	72.5	70.5

w（GMS）/ %	G′=K′（2πf）^n′
w（GMS）/ %	K′	n′	R²
0	1.271×10⁵±0.350×10^{5 b}	0.085±0.000^a	0.996
2	2.239×10⁵±0.182×10^{5 ab}	0.085±0.008^a	0.993
4	3.400×10⁵±0.083×10^{5 ab}	0.081±0.005^a	0.984
6	4.504×10⁵±0.496×10^{5 a}	0.097±0.008^a	0.995

w（GMS）/%	2θ/（°）			B值/mm			晶粒尺寸/?
w（GMS）/%	峰1	峰2	峰3	峰1	峰2	峰3	峰1	峰2	峰3
0	18.781	20.96	23.241	0.153	0.252	0.315	4.183	3.748	3.380
2	18.792	20.804	23.261	0.196	0.274	0.254	4.180	3.776	3.377
4	18.581	20.783	23.131	0.125	0.196	0.176	4.228	3.780	3.396
6	18.838	20.840	23.360	0.241	0.280	0.244	4.170	3.770	3.363

Preparation and properties of natural colored lipstick based on oleogels

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