Welcome to China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, Today is

China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics ›› 2022, Vol. 52 ›› Issue (12): 1366-1372.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.016

• Reviews • Previous Articles    

Research progress in cosmetics applications and properties of mycosporine-like amino acids

Fan Gaoning*()   

  1. Taizhou Medical Hi-Tech Zone New Drug Application Center, Taizhou, Jiangsu 225300, China
  • Received:2022-01-04 Revised:2022-12-01 Online:2022-12-22 Published:2022-12-29
  • Contact: Gaoning Fan E-mail:gn_fan@163.com.

Abstract:

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a class of secondary metabolites of aquatic organisms, which are widely distributed in algae, phytoplankton, cyanobacteria, microorganisms and marine animals. MAAs are low-molecular-weight (generally<400 Da), colorless and water-soluble compounds. They are highly stable molecules under environmental conditions. They are composed of either an aminocyclohexenone or an aminocyclohexenimine ring. Multiple lines of evidence have supported that MAAs are derived from intermediates of the shikimate pathway and the pentose phosphate pathway. MAAs maximally absorb in the wavelength region of 268-362 nm and also exhibit high molar absorptivities (12 400-58 800 L/(mol·cm)). Therefore, due to these characteristics, they are the strongest UVA-absorbing compounds in nature. MAAs have potential for development as natural biocompatible sunscreens that protect against a diverse range of solar UVR which has induced adverse effects on human health. In addition, MAAs have additional protective roles such as antioxidant function and anti-aging. Herein, the research on the distribution, chemical structure, physico-chemical characteristics, biosynthesis, bioactivities of MAAs and their application in cosmetics are mainly introduced.

Key words: mycosporine-like amino acid, UV-protective, source, biosynthesis, biological activity

CLC Number: 

  • TQ658