海洋来源的美白活性成分的研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.04.012

Abstract

Abstract:

The synthesis and signal transduction pathway of melanin were summarized. The research results of seaweed active composition such as polysaccharides, polyphenols, carotenoids and terpenoids, marine animal extracts such as collagen, peptides and glycoproteins, and active substances of microalgae, marine fungi and bacteria in whitening were reviewed. It points out the market prospect of developing new whitening cosmetics based on these active ingredients.

Key words: whitening, marine, melanin, active ingredients

CLC Number:

TQ658

OUYANG Pei-pei,LIAO Xue-hua,WU Ke-feng,MA Xiao-li. Research progress on whitening active ingredients from marine sources[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(4): 264-268.

Figures/Tables 1

References 35

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来源	美白活性成分	美白作用机制	化妆品应用范例
海洋植物	褐藻糖胶	激活ERK信号通路,下调MITF的表达,降低Tyr活性,抑制黑素生成	九美子深海藻净白控油洗面奶、碧奥泉海藻面膜、Nongnaka海藻物理防晒霜、水密码雪肌亮采面膜
	间苯三酚、虾青素	具有抗氧化性,抑制Tyr活性
	4-羟基苯乙醇	抑制蘑菇酪氨酸酶活性,降低黑色素含量
	dioxinodehydroeckol	激活PI3K/Akt信号通路,促进Akt的磷酸化,抑制MITF、Tyr、TRP-1和TRP-2的表达
	Octaphlorethol A	激活ERK信号通路,抑制黑素生成
	岩藻黄素	抑制MC1R和Tyr相关蛋白的mRNA表达,抵抗紫外线辐射引起的氧化应激
	sargahydroquinoic acid	通过cAMP/CREB通路和ERK信号转导途径抑制MITF表达
海洋动物	胶原蛋白	通过螯合铜离子来抑制Tyr活性	鱼胶原蛋白肽口服液肽饮、德国比曼塔鱼子酱胶原蛋白肽粉胶囊
	胶原肽	降低细胞内cAMP含量,从而抑制Tyr的表达,并缓解紫外线照射引起的体内氧化压力
	糖蛋白	促进ERK磷酸化,降低MITF、Tyr、TRP-1和TRP-2的蛋白表达水平
海洋微生物	C-藻蓝蛋白	上调MAPK/ERK信号通路,促进MITF蛋白的降解;以及下调p38 MAPK通路,抑制CREB的活化	韩国香蒲丽绿色螺旋藻海藻面膜、兰亭螺旋藻护肤品和bb霜
海洋微生物	1β,5α,6α,14-四乙酰氧基-9α-苯甲酰氧基-7βH-桉烷-2β,11-二醇、4α,5α-二乙酰氧基-9α-苯甲酰氧基-7βH-桉烷-1β,2β,11,14-四醇、thalassotalic acid A	抑制Tyr活性	韩国香蒲丽绿色螺旋藻海藻面膜、兰亭螺旋藻护肤品和bb霜

Research progress on whitening active ingredients from marine sources

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