化妆品透皮吸收试验方法概述

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.12.010

Abstract

CLC Number:

TQ658

SONG Yan-qing,PAN Yao,ZHAO Hua. An overview of skin penetration test methods for cosmetics[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(12): 824-829.

Figures/Tables 4

Fig. 1

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Tab. 1

References 45

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	ATR-FT-IR	CRM	FLIM
光谱范围	400~4 000 cm^-1	40~4 000 cm^-1	激发波长：700~850 nm 发射波长：350~620 nm
结构特征	具有红外光吸收特性	具有拉曼光谱特征	具有荧光基团
皮肤检测深度	角质层	表皮层（<100 μm）	表皮层和部分真皮层（<250 μm）
优点	制样简单、扫描速度快、灵敏度高、分辨率高、实时原位跟踪、时间短、光谱范围广、操作简单、无红外聚焦热效应影响	制样简单、时间短、无创、可在体检测、分辨率最高、可检测水溶液待测物	无创、可在体检测、特异性强、灵敏度高、可定量、不受光强度影响
缺点	定量分析不够好、间接分析技术、依赖于标准方法数据库	受荧光背景干扰、受激发强度过高影响、检测灵敏度低	分辨率与成像速度相互制约
在化妆品透皮吸收检测中的应用	促渗剂（乙醇、丙二醇、DMSO、脂肪酸）、表面活性剂（蔗糖月桂酸酯、卵磷脂、烷基糖苷）、纳米防晒剂	维生素A、促渗剂（DMSO、丙二醇、氮酮）、咖啡因、化学防晒剂（甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、水杨酸乙基己酯、二苯酮-3、二甲基PABA乙基己酯、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸）、油脂（霍霍巴油、石蜡油、甜杏仁油）	纳米防晒剂（ZnO）、化学防晒剂（水杨酸乙基己酯、二甲基PABA乙基己酯、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯）、荧光标记脂质体

An overview of skin penetration test methods for cosmetics

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