洗发水表面活性剂对头皮的影响及其内在机制的研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.015

Abstract

Abstract:

The barrier function of the scalp is maintained by normal sebum secretion and balanced microecology. As the core ingredient to provide cleansing efficacy in shampoos, surfactants can interact with proteins and lipids of stratum corneum （SC）, and have an impact on the scalp microecology, thereby disrupting the scalp barrier. In addition, the application of surfactants may cause irritation reactions on the scalp, such as itching, stinging, redness, and inflmmation. Specifically, different types of surfactants may be selective for lipid removal. Anionic surfactants can remove cholesterol, free fatty acids, and squalene with no effect on ceramides and triglycerides, whereas cationic surfactants significantly reduce the contents of triglycerides and ceramides. In the future, lipidomics and microbiomics strategies can be combined to further study the effects of surfactants on scalp lipids and microorganisms, thus providing guidance on the selection of appropriate surfactants for different scalp types, and the basis for the development of shampoos with targeted scalp type, low irritation, and high efficacy.

Key words: shampoo surfactants, skin/scalp barrier, shampoo formulations, scalp care

CLC Number:

TQ423

Zidi Wang, Cheng Zhou, Huaming He, Qian Jiao, Qianqian Su, Yan Jia. Advances in the effects of shampoo surfactants on scalp and their underlying mechanisms[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(6): 733-743.

Figures/Tables 6

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References 53

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Categories of surfactants		Action properties	Example	Advantages and disadvantages	Reference
Traditional surfactants	Anionic surfactants	Strong cleansing ability, high irritation	SLS, sodium laureth sulphate, etc.	Easy to obtain, low cost, potential risk of irritation	[7, 8]
	Cationic surfactants	Weak cleansing ability, conditioning damaged hair, softening hair	BTAC, CTAC, etc.		[7, 8]
	Amphoteric surfactants	Good foaming, cleansing and wetting properties	Sodium lauraminopropionate, CAPB, etc.		[7, 8]
	Non-ionic surfactants	Mild, anti-static, thickening effect	APG, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters, etc.		[8]
New surfactants	Gemini surfactants	Low cmc, high surface tension, mild, excellent solubilisation, and foaming properties	Cationic gemini, anionic gemini, amphoteric gemini	Low toxicity, high foaming, high biodegradability, environmentally friendly, but very expensive to produce	[9]
	Green surfactants	Safe, mild, high foaming, versatile, low toxicity, biodegradable	Glycolipids, lipopeptides, saponins, etc.		[6, 16]
	Chelating surfactants	Chelating action, surface active, removes stubborn dirt	N-acyl ED3A, etc.		[18, 19]

Advances in the effects of shampoo surfactants on scalp and their underlying mechanisms

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