China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics ›› 2023, Vol. 53 ›› Issue (2): 140-148.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.02.003
• Lecture of science and technology • Previous Articles Next Articles
Chang Kuan1,*(),Ma Ling2,Chen Timson2,Wang Jing1,*(
)
Received:
2023-02-01
Online:
2023-02-22
Published:
2023-02-23
Contact:
Kuan Chang,Jing Wang
E-mail:changkuan@jiangnan.edu.cn;jingwang@jiangnan.edu.cn
CLC Number:
Chang Kuan,Ma Ling,Chen Timson,Wang Jing. Properties of hair and scientific basis of hair care (Ⅱ) Spectroscopic techniques for hair characterization[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(2): 140-148.
Tab. 1
Vibrational assignments for IR spectrum of human hair [12,13]"
峰位置/cm-1 | 基团 | 振动模式 | 峰型 | |
---|---|---|---|---|
高波 数区 | 3 274 | 肽键/氨基 | νas N-H | 中强,宽峰 |
2 961 | 甲基 | νas C-H | 弱峰 | |
2 921 | 亚甲基 | νas C-H | 弱峰 | |
2 872 | 甲基 | νs C-H | 弱峰 | |
2 850 | 亚甲基 | νs C-H | 弱峰 | |
低波 数区 | 1 637 | 肽键 | νC=O | 中强 |
1 521 | 肽键 | νC-N耦合δN-H | 中强 | |
1 445 | 亚甲基 | δC-H | 弱峰 | |
1 410 | 甲基 | ωC-H | 弱峰 | |
1 226 | 肽键 | νC-N耦合δN-H | 弱峰 | |
1 042 | 磺酸基 | νS=O | 中强 |
[1] | Qiu B, Gao Z. Modern cosmetics[M]. Beijing: China Light Industrial Press, 2016. |
[2] | Robbins C R. Chemical and physical behavior of human hair[M]. 5th edition, New York: Springer, 2012. |
[3] |
Sinclair, Rodney D. Healthy hair: what is it?[J] Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, 2007, 12 (2):2-5.
pmid: 18004288 |
[4] | Dias M. Hair cosmetics: an overview[J]. Internal Journal of Trichology, 2015, 7 (1):2-15. |
[5] | Chen M, Yang Xin, Ye M, et al. Fast determination of amino acids in hydrolysate of leather and hair by HPLC with pre-column derivatization[J]. Chinese Journal of Pharmaceutical Analysis, 2011, 31 (5):851-856. |
[6] |
Pienpinijtham P, Thammacharoen C, Naranitad S, et al. Analysis of cosmetic residues on a single human hair by ATR FT-IR microspectroscopy[J]. Spectrochimica Acta Part A: Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy, 2018, 197: 230-236.
doi: 10.1016/j.saa.2018.01.084 |
[7] |
Kazarian K, Chan K. Micro- and macro-attenuated total reflection fourier transform infrared spectroscopic imaging[J]. Applied Spectroscopy, 2010, 64 (5):135-152.
pmid: 20482963 |
[8] |
Chan K L A, Kazarian S G, Mavraki A, et al. Fourier transform infrared imaging of human hair with a high spatial resolution without the use of a synchrotron[J]. Applied Spectroscopy, 2005, 59 (2):149-155.
pmid: 15720754 |
[9] |
Bantignies J L, Fuchs G, Carr G L, et al. Organic reagent interaction with hair spatially characterized by infrared microspectroscopy using synchrotron radiation[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 1998, 20 (6):381-394.
doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.177055.x pmid: 18505522 |
[10] | Dumas P, Miller L. The use of synchrotron infrared microspectroscopy in biological and biomedical investigations[J]. Vibrational Spectroscopy, 2003, 32 (1):6-21. |
[11] |
Marcott C, Lo M, Kjoller K, et al. Localization of human hair structural lipids using nanoscale infrared spectroscopy and imaging[J]. Applied Spectroscopy, 2014, 68 (5):564-569.
doi: 10.1366/13-07328 pmid: 25014600 |
[12] |
Panayiotou H, Kokot S. Matching and discrimination of single human-scalp hairs by FT-IR micro-spectroscopy and chemometrics[J]. Analytica Chimica Acta, 1999, 392(2-3): 223-235.
doi: 10.1016/S0003-2670(99)00230-5 |
[13] | Socrates G. Infrared and Raman characteristic group frequencies table and charts[M]. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons, 2001. |
[14] | Zhang G, Senak L, Moore D J. Measuring changes in chemistry, composition, and molecular structure within hair fibers by infrared and Raman spectroscopic imaging[J]. Journal of Biomedical Optics, 2011, 16 (5). |
[15] |
Hopkins J, Brenner L, Tumosa C S. Variation of the amideⅠand amideⅡpeak absorbance ratio in human hair as measured by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy[J]. Forensic Science International, 1991, 50 (1):61-65.
doi: 10.1016/0379-0738(91)90134-5 pmid: 1937307 |
[16] |
Kim K S, Park H K. Analysis of aging effects on chemical property of human hair by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy[J]. Skin Research and Technology, 2013, 19 (1):325-331.
doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2012.00647.x pmid: 22724676 |
[17] |
Fellows A P, Casford M T, Davies P B. Using hybrid atomic force microscopy and infrared spectroscopy (AFM‐IR) to identify chemical components of the hair medulla on the nanoscale[J]. Journal of Microscopy, 2021, 284 (3):189-202.
doi: 10.1111/jmi.13052 |
[18] |
Fellows A P, Casford M T L, Davies P B. Chemically characterizing the cortical cell nano‐structure of human hair using atomic force microscopy integrated with infrared spectroscopy (AFM‐IR)[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2022, 44 (1):42-55.
doi: 10.1111/ics.12753 |
[19] |
Zhou Y, Rigoletto R, Koelmel D, et al. The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 62 (2):265-282.
pmid: 21635854 |
[20] |
Korte M, Akari S, Kühn H, et al. Distribution and localization of hydrophobic and ionic chemical groups at the surface of bleached human hair fibers[J]. Langmuir, 2014, 30 (41):12124-12129.
doi: 10.1021/la500461y pmid: 25203784 |
[21] |
Ryu S R, Jang W, Yu S I, et al. FT-IR microspectroscopic imaging of cross-sectioned human hair during a bleaching process[J]. Journal of Cosmetics Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2016, 6 (5):181-190.
doi: 10.4236/jcdsa.2016.65023 |
[22] |
Contreras F, Ermolenkov A, Kurouski D. Infrared analysis of hair dyeing and bleaching history[J]. Analytical Methods, 2020, 12 (29):3741-3747.
doi: 10.1039/d0ay01068e pmid: 32729856 |
[23] |
Pudney P D, Bonnist E Y, Mutch K J, et al. Confocal Raman spectroscopy of whole hairs[J]. Applied Spectroscopy, 2013, 67 (12):1408-1416.
doi: 10.1366/13-07086 pmid: 24359655 |
[24] |
Foggia M, Boga C, Micheletti G, et al. Vibrational Raman and IR data on brown hair subjected to bleaching[J]. Data in Brief, 2021, 38: 107439.
doi: 10.1016/j.dib.2021.107439 |
[25] |
Akhtar W, Edwards H G M, Farwell D W, et al. Fourier-transform Raman spectroscopic study of human hair[J]. Spectrochimica Acta Part A: Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy, 1997, 53 (7):1021-1031.
doi: 10.1016/S1386-1425(97)00055-3 |
[26] |
Wilson A S, Edwards H G, Farwell D W, et al. Fourier transform Raman spectroscopy: evaluation as a non‐destructive technique for studying the degradation of human hair from archaeological and forensic environments[J]. Journal of Raman Spectroscopy, 1999, 30 (5):367-373.
doi: 10.1002/(SICI)1097-4555(199905)30:5<367::AID-JRS384>3.0.CO;2-I |
[27] |
Williams A C, Edwards H G M, Barry B W. Raman spectra of human keratotic biopolymers: skin, callus, hair and nail[J]. Journal of Raman Spectroscopy, 1994, 25 (1):95-98.
doi: 10.1002/jrs.1250250113 |
[28] |
Fedorkova M V, Brandt N N, Chikishev A Y, et al. Photoinduced formation of thiols in human hair[J]. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 2016, 164: 43-48.
doi: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2016.09.021 |
[29] |
Foggia D M, Boga C, Micheletti G, et al. Structural investigation on damaged hair keratin treated with α, β-unsaturated Michael acceptors used as repairing agents[J]. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2021, 167: 620-632.
doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2020.11.194 pmid: 33279560 |
[30] |
Essendoubi M, Andre N, Granger B, et al. New approach for hair keratin characterization: Use of the confocal Raman spectroscopy to assess the effect of thermal stress on human hair fibre[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2022, 44 (5):588-601.
doi: 10.1111/ics.12808 |
[31] |
Vyumvuhore R, Verzeaux L, Gilardeau S, et al. Investigation of the molecular signature of greying hair shafts[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2021, 43 (3):332-340.
doi: 10.1111/ics.12700 pmid: 33713467 |
[32] |
Kuzuhara A. Raman spectroscopic analysis of L-phenylalanine and hydrolyzed eggwhite protein penetration into keratin fibers[J]. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2011, 122 (4):2680-2689.
doi: 10.1002/app.34311 |
[33] | Okamoto M, Kazutaka I, Noriyuki T, et al. Investigation of the damage on the outermost hair surface using ToF‐SIMS and XPS[J]. Surface and Interface Analysis, 2012, 6 (44):736-739. |
[34] |
Stranick M A. Determination of negative binding sites on hair surfaces using XPS and Ba2+ labeling[J]. Surface and Interface Analysis, 1996, 24 (8):522-528.
doi: 10.1002/(SICI)1096-9918(199608)24:8<522::AID-SIA171>3.0.CO;2-5 |
[35] |
Liu Z, Katja G, Jochen H, et al. Effects of cosmetic emulsions on the surface properties of mongolian hair[J]. ACS Omega, 2022, 7 (13):10910-10920.
doi: 10.1021/acsomega.1c06526 pmid: 35415322 |
[36] |
Kempson I M, Skinner W M, Kirkbride K P. Advanced analysis of metal distributions in human hair[J]. Environmental Science & Technology, 2006, 40 (10):3423-3428.
doi: 10.1021/es052158v |
[37] | Bolortuya D, Zuzaan P. X-Ray fluorescence analysis of human hair[J]. X-Ray Fluorescence in Biological Sciences: Principles, Instrumentation, and Applications, 2022, 405-418. |
[38] |
Uetake K, Tanaka T. Hair mineral analysis by X-ray fluorescence spectrometry: associations with body fat[J]. Asia Pacific Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2013, 22 (2):257-260.
doi: 10.6133/apjcn.2013.22.2.14 pmid: 23635370 |
[39] |
Santos M C, Sperança M A, Pereira F M V. Wavelength dispersive X-ray fluorescence (WDXRF) and chemometric investigation of human hair after cosmetic treatment[J]. X-Ray Spectrometry, 2018, 47 (3):252-257.
doi: 10.1002/xrs.2836 |
[40] | Wei Z L, Rui Y K, Shen L. Effects of hair dyeing on the heavy metals content in hair[J]. Spectroscopy and Spectral Analysis, 2008, 28 (9):2187-2188. |
[1] | Luo Xiaojian, Hong Shixi, Luo Jing, Yang Si, Wang Ziyan, Xiong Yaokun. Study on the effect of lactic acid in promoting hair growth in seborrheic alopecia mice [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(9): 1029-1034. |
[2] | Chen Liyuan, Gao Heyi, Tang Jinjing, Liu Zuohua, Liu Renlong. Evaluation of antioxidant and protective effect against hair light damage of manganese compound [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(9): 1044-1050. |
[3] | Fang Chengge, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care (Ⅶ) The causes of hair graying and the methods to make white hair turn black [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(7): 748-756. |
[4] | Gao Ruifang, Chai Ge, Li Xiangsheng. Determination of 47 kinds of dyestuffs in oxidative hair dye by high performance liquid chromatography [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(6): 725-732. |
[5] | Zhu Ting, Shen Qiruonan, Xu Yujuan, Li Chunmei. Application of chestnut shell pigment in hair dyes [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(5): 493-502. |
[6] | Fan Jiayi, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care (Ⅴ)Hair photoaging and its protection [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(5): 503-510. |
[7] | Fan Jiayi, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care (Ⅳ) Development of protein and polypeptide ingredients for hair care [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(4): 382-389. |
[8] | Kaur Bhogal Ranjit, Chen Xubin, Messenger David, Gong Zhehui, Sun Jianing, Pi Yingying, Gu Jiayin. Novel role of piroctone olamine on protease inhibition in vitro, and reduction in human hair shedding in combination of zinc sulfate in vivo [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(4): 390-397. |
[9] | Wu Yuwen, Bian Marina, Yue Zoe, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care (Ⅲ)Mechanical properties of human hair [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(3): 260-270. |
[10] | Shi Lianlian, Ma Wenjun, Sun Yaping, Wang Peipei, Zheng Chunyang. Study on the effect of acetyl tetrapeptide-11 in preventing hair loss [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(11): 1293-1298. |
[11] | Zhang Jing, Lai Junmin, Li Siyuan, Yan Xiaohong, Ding Yi, Zhang Qihui. Determination of 14 N-nitrosamines in hair dyes using gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(11): 1334-1339. |
[12] | Wu Yuwen, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care (I) Effects of moisture on the properties of hair and the study on moisturizing efficacy [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(1): 8-15. |
[13] | Mai Jingzhang,Li Lin,He Jinqing,Li Zeyong. Study on the synthesis and application of thickening-fixing hybrid rheology modifier [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(9): 960-968. |
[14] | Wei Zengyun. Microwave-assisted preparation of lactic acid carbon quantum dots and determination of p-nitroaniline with fluorescence quenching [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(6): 683-688. |
[15] | Xu Xiaohui,Wang Xiaoqiao,Zhao Bo,Du Ruihu,Zhang Hongyan,Shi Xiaofeng. Filtered solid phase extraction-UPLC-MS/MS for determination of 35 glucocorticoids in hair-rearing solutions [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(4): 444-450. |
|