透明质酸钠的多重护发功效研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.04.004

Abstract

Abstract:

Sodium hyaluronate is widely used in medicine and other fields because of its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiallergic and repairing effects. It has also been widely used as a favorable bioactive ingredient in cosmetics. However, the research on sodium hyaluronate in cosmetics has been focused on its application in skin care, while few study has been carried out on the hair care efficacy thereof. Particularly, the hair care efficacy of sodium hyaluronate with different molecular weight has not been reported until now. Herein, the hair care efficacy of five kinds of sodium hyaluronates with different molecular weight and structure was systematically studied based on the characterization of mechanical properties, combability, friction force, moisture content and smoothness of hair. Experimentally, natural hair and highly-damaged hair were treated by leave-on products containing 0.5% （w/%） sodium hyaluronate. The results indicated that hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate with lower molecular weight （30-50 kDa and less than 5 kDa） exhibited more significant multifunctional hair care effects. In detail, the tensile strength and elastic modulus of damaged hair can be significantly enhanced （up to 10%）, and the combing work and friction force of the hair can be reduced by over 20%. Moreover, the sodium hyaluronate treatment leads to improved moisturizing and anti-frizz property of hair. The water loss curve of hair bundle treated with sodium hyaluronate at 65 ℃ was significantly lower than that of the control group. And in the high-humidity environment, the change of hair bundle projection area after sodium hyaluronate treatment was also significantly less than that of the control group. The hair care effects of sodium hyaluronate could be possibly attributed to its interaction with hair keratin, and the effectiveness of low-molecular-weight sodium hyaluronate could be related to their enhanced penetration into hair fibers. In addition, the experiment with fluorescently labeled sodium hyaluronate directly proved that low-molecular-weight sodium hyaluronate could penetrate into the hair fibers. This study provides theoretical basis and data support for the application of sodium hyaluronate in hair care products.

Key words: hair care, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, hair repair

CLC Number:

TQ658

Hu Chenyu,Qu Wenjie,Guo Xueping,Xu Guixin,Zou Songyan,Wang Jing. Study on multifunctional hair care efficacy of sodium hyaluronate[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(4): 370-375.

Figures/Tables 6

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

References 16

[1]	Barba C, Scott S, Roddick-Lanzilotta A. et al. Restoring important hair properties with wool keratin proteins and peptides[J]. Fibers Polymer, 2010 (11) : 1055-1061.
[2]	Barba C, Martí M, Roddick-Lanzilotta A. et al. Effect of wool keratin proteins and peptides on hair water sorption kinetics[J]. Journal of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry, 2010, 102: 43-48. doi: 10.1007/s10973-010-0691-2
[3]	Leichner C, Steinbring C, Baus R A, et al. Reactive keratin derivatives: A promising strategy for covalent binding to hair[J]. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 2018, 534: 533-541. doi: 10.1016/j.jcis.2018.09.062
[4]	Sionkowska A. The potential of polymers from naturals sources as components of the blends for biomedical and cosmetic applications[J]. Pure and Applied Chemistry, 2015, 87: 1075-1084. doi: 10.1515/pac-2015-0105
[5]	RMD Gama, Fran A-Stefoni S A, TC Sá-Dias, et al. Protective effect of conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2018: 1-6.
[6]	Itou T, Nojiri M, Ootsuka Y. et al. Study of the interaction between hair protein and organic acid that improves hair-set durability by near-infrared spectroscopy[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016, 57: 139-151.
[7]	Gargano E M, Mangiatordi G F, Weber I, et al. Persulfate reaction in a Hair-Bleaching formula: unveiling the unconventional reactivity of 1, 13-diamino-4, 7, 10-trioxatridecane[J]. Chemistry Open, 2018, 7: 319-322.
[8]	Mitura S, Sionkowska A, Jaiswal A. Biopolymers for hydrogels in cosmetics: review[J]. Journal of Materials Science Materials in Medicine, 2020, 31 (6) : 50-63. doi: 10.1007/s10856-020-06390-w
[9]	Bukhari S N, Roswandi N L, Waqas M, et al. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects[J]. International Journal of Biological Macromole, 2018, 120: 1682-1695.
[10]	Wang Yonggang. Pharmacological and clinical application of sodium hyaluronate[J]. Modern Chemical Research, 2020, 17: 90-91.
[11]	Su Jiangwei, Zhang Yan, Wu Wanfu, et al. Advances in crosslinked hyaluronic acid hydrogels[J]. Shandong Chemical Industry, 2020, 49 (2) : 83-87.
[12]	Wang Yuling, Guo Xueping, Huang Siling, et al. Application of hyaluronic acid in dermatology[J]. Food and Medicine, 2014, 16 (4) : 293-295.
[13]	Sionkowska A, Kaczmarek B, Michalska M, et al. Preparation and characterization of collagen/chitosan/hyaluronic acid thin films for application in hair care cosmetics[J]. Pure & Applied Chemistry, 2017, 89 (12) : 1829-1839.
[14]	Zhou Shuqin, Chen Qunli, Xiong Yejuan, et al. Determination of mussel glycosaminoglycan in rat plasma by pre column derivatization HPLC[J]. Progress in Modern Biomedicine, 2015, 15 (13) : 2447-2450.
[15]	Malinauskyte E, Shrestha R, Cornwell P A, et al. Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2020, 43 (1) : 26-37. doi: 10.1111/ics.12663
[16]	Song K, Xu H, Xie K, et al. Effects of chemical structures of polycarboxylic acids on molecular and performance manipulation of hair keratin[J]. RSC Advances, 2016, 6 (63) : 58594-58603. doi: 10.1039/C6RA08797C

Study on multifunctional hair care efficacy of sodium hyaluronate

RichHTML

PDF (PC)

Like

Knowledge

Abstract

Cite this article

share this article

Figures/Tables 6

References 16

Related Articles 5

Metrics

Comments

Recommended 10

[1]	Fan Jiayi, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅴ）Hair photoaging and its protection [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(5): 503-510.
[2]	Fan Jiayi, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅳ） Development of protein and polypeptide ingredients for hair care [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(4): 382-389.
[3]	He Xiaowei. Rapid determination of antimicrobial agents in hair care cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(8): 789-794.
[4]	ZHAO Xuan,GAO Qing-rui,QIN Shi-li,GAO Li-di. Determination of eight heavy metal elements in shampoo andhair care products [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(1): 78-82.
[5]	ZHANG Rui, YAN Mei-xia, XU Shi-quan, WANG Ying-ping. Current status of research work with respect to effect of ginseng in make up and hair care cosmetics [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2014, 44(3): 163-166.